187

I've gotten something close but to a much smaller degree. If I got start my car it will go up and down 2-3 times and level out. I figured out this had to do with my iacv being 96+.

Also that fuel vsv works for hot starts for me being 97 with the obd2.

It sounds like whatever you have for tuning is keeping it confused, as in fighting the stock ecu to do something.

mjegan

iTrader: (1)

I'm in the process of the distributor delete and I ran into this issue as well. The coil doesn't snap onto the spark plug like the I expect. Do you have yours running yet?

killersqrl

How would I check if the ecu thinks it's in park? I tried to read through most of the thread several times when I did the swap but could have missed something, is there a wire/jumper I need to configure to make the ecu think it is in drive all the time?

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

If the boots are in good condition, they will suction onto the opening in the head, there is no click like with the stock coil leads. make sure there is a spring in the boots on the coil, I haven't had any issues for several years now mine are not even bolted down or anything, once you stick all the wires in there they can hardly move around but my boots are in good shape.

I have to agree, what makes the idle go up and down on these cars is when the ecu is not happy as in it can't stabilize in one spot, that means its fighting the value that was entered, sometimes you have to tweak it even if its not the perfect afr maybe let it be a hair richer then leaner in those idle spots. sounds like you were puling too much fuel but its hard to tell from here.

It wouldn't be in this thread but it was mentioned here before. I think it was in another thread entirely how to change it. you need the ecu to be in park/neutral for starting, then it should be in drive I think. I never had this issue as my harness was an original 5spd one, but if you have an auto harness I think you need to re-wire it somewhat. I know that is not super helpful but at least you kinda know what it is and can look it up. Alot of gte swaps have the same issues as these.

killersqrl

I'm original 5sp harness as well, but I just realized what I bet it is... Way back when I first got the car and had an alarm installed I came back and modified it to allow remote start with the 5sp. I think I had to jumper the neutral start switch to get it to work so I bet the ecu sees it is in neutral all the time. I'll check it out when I get home and if that's it then I'll have to come up with some other solution for the remote start.

MLeopard

I believe the pin you're concerned with is pin 76 on the 80 pin ECU plug. I've been reading up on Aristo 5 spd swaps and there seems to be a rev limit in place when the ECU thinks it's in neutral like you're seeing.

I think if you were to check the wire right now it would be grounded.

http://wilbo666.pbworks.com/w/page/3...ngine%20Wiring

http://clubaristo.net/forums/showthr...y-needed/page4
(Post #32)

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

that may be the root cause, remote start does funny things I am sure they did some odd wiring to get it to work on the 5 speed. maybe see if you can check over their work but try bypassing the clutch switch first that may do the trick (if they didn't already do that).

I can tell you how I have mine setup since mine was completely unmodified when I started. The only thing I ever did was bypass the clutch start switch so you don't have to push the clutch in to start the car, I simply unplugged the 2 pin connector on the clutch, and zipped up the clutch side, and on the car harness side I just inserted a wire into each of the 2 pins and taped it down. This worked fine for me on both the aristo auto ecu and the jdm 6 speed ecu. maybe try that first cause when you have the jumper in it tells the ecu something different, may be that makes a difference... and all JZ's with heavy clutches should run bypassed anyways. my 85 pickup didnt even have a clutch start switch it was just invented for dummies who cant check they are in neutral.

I never ran the aristo ecu without my clutch switch bypassed to be honest, so I don't know if I would have had the same issue or not.
Its one of the first things I did when I put the act extreme clutch kit on and that was many many... many moons ago.

be carefull there are actually 2 switches on the clutch the other one is for the cruise control, you want the one that works when its pressed all the way down, the cruise control switch detects it when its pressed just a hair down.

killersqrl

Awesome, thanks guys I'll check those out.

Studiogeek

iTrader: (6)

HIPSI,
Strange thing is, I never noticed either symptom in the 100 degree heat this summer. I only noticed the lean idle, surging idle after my friends feet shorted out some ECU/SAFC wiring 2 months ago. It blew the EFI fuse. I did my best to clean up the wires and replaced the fuse. The car ran horribly on the way home but almost normally the following day. I noticed the surging and lean idle after that. I know correlation is not causation but it makes me wonder if I fried something or left a wire wrong perhaps.

I should preface my issues so as not to worry others considering the mod.. I post my issues (often not related to this mod) in this thread because the people that understand my setup best, are here ;-)

In this case, I have a hunch I screwed something up slightly that day my wires were upset.

If the EFI fuse was blown, what else could have been affected that day?

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

did you find what shorted to blow the efi fuse? just check over all the connections especially for the piggyback, make sure they are soldered and heatshrinked properly, if they are just twisted together they will come apart when someone puts their foot on it or get a loose connection. not much else that can go wrong in that spot.

Reyke

Huge win tonight, started at 1pm mashed the transmission to the engine tediously installed it, then did just the bare minimum to get the car started, and what do you know my work on the wiring harness for the coils the jumper harness I added in for the safc, boost, and speed cut along with wiring the four wire o2 sensor, perfect.

Car started up right away, now I'm pulling my hair out because I told my wife I'd meet her to help Christmas shop and go to dinner.

Ali, I can't say enough how helpful this thread has been, my hats off to you hipsi, and all the other members that have contributed to this thread. I can't wait to put this car on the road.

Last time she'll be here:

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

awesome, glad it worked out and on the first try is always a nice feeling. let us know how those ZZ coilpacks hold up to boost, they should perform nicely but I read they can go bad from time to time.

nuturf87

Im sure.... Keep us posted. Mapecu man also has some great instructional videos on youtube on how to get you going if you need the help.

nuturf87

oooooweeeeee......glad everything turned out well. Now you need a gt4788 lol j/k Keep us posted

scblackout

iTrader: (2)

I have a 96 5sp NA (someday NA-T) and I am planning on starting with replacing the ignition system first. I want to maintain OBD2 compliance.

Here is what I have so far:
1. 96 USDM Supra TT auto ecu obd2
2. map-ecu 2 with full patch harness
3. IS300 VVTI coilpacks + wires
4. Lexus igniter (DH61)
5. Custom coilpack harness
6. 7M CPS
7. Iridium plugs

What I believe is still needed
1. 92-95 obd1 lower runner
2. 550cc injectors -- would rather just purchase the 1000's as that is end goal
3. Supra TT maf
4. Supra TT map

Is my list missing anything?

Here is where I need a little more info:
The car is currently NA, so when running trial, is it better to only add in the Supra ecu and skip the entire map-ecu?

My assumption is that if I do that first, then I have to purchase both the TT maf and map and install it into the car, where if I add in the map-ecu I then won't have to purchase a TT maf?

I have never used a piggyback before, still reading the guide, but is it right to assume that it could be easily added into the system where it will replace the maf without the need of a custom tune for NA?

Finally, it says that the map-ecu is well documented on the sf, but any idea where is the best source of info there? haven't found much on map-ecu2 yet. Mostly I just want to do this in the proper way so that Ali SC3 will want to help.