2JZGE Na-T TT Ecu Mod
12-11-15, 04:07 PM
#2956
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: ca
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Start making your spreadsheet with the things you know you will need already. Others will chime in on what else you need and help you decide what brands to get.
The routes vary wildly. You can't get a price until the important decisions are made on route and parts. That said, others can chime in on what they paid.
The routes vary wildly. You can't get a price until the important decisions are made on route and parts. That said, others can chime in on what they paid.
12-11-15, 04:53 PM
#2957
studiogeek. Map ecu3 is a great piggyback if your power goals are under 800. highest map ecu car made 962 or so on e85. So you have nothing to worry about. And 1000cc can be done with aristo ecu. idle and cruising tune are the sensitive parts. I agree with the fact that you are going with 550cc. You can get close to 500 on those injectors. And tuning them with the map ecu 3 is not that bad as its only a 25 percent fuel change. If you can get a conservative tune with the 550, you will be happy. btw car is coming along. gl
Can't wait to install that thing!
12-11-15, 05:58 PM
#2958
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Arizona
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How much psi is regarded as "safe" for a GE with a tt HG on a jdm ecu? 15? Im at 10psi right now on stock compression and made 379whp and 386wtq. Looking for closer to 450whp. Ill switch to osidetigers 550s when I do the HG/arp studs, and will be using a safc2.
12-12-15, 06:42 AM
#2959
Did they hook your car up to make sure it wasn't knocking or pinging on the dyno?
12-12-15, 10:40 AM
#2960
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It was on a v1 with the exact same set up. Only difference is now its on tt ecu. So less aggressive timing, but it still feels like it pulls just as hard. I am high compression so I deff should be making more power than others with tt hg at 10psi.
12-13-15, 01:55 PM
#2962
Hey Guys,
I have a strange issue. It's just an annoyance but anything not right bothers me. When I cold start, the car idles fine, warms up and drives without issue. If I shut the car down after driving it, when I start it back up warm, the idle surges and the wideband is often pegged on lean. If I just pull off, it drives fine generally. This is pretty much NOT intermittent. The first start is fine and subsequent starts have the surging idle and lean AFR's. I changed my Aristo ECU out for a Supra ECU and the issue persists. Yesterday it took a few minutes of driving for the AFR's to correct themselves. That only happened that once (the delayed correction) but it made me think I'd better figure this out before it gets worse. Does anyone have any idea what could cause this or what I could try to fix it?
Thanks
I have a strange issue. It's just an annoyance but anything not right bothers me. When I cold start, the car idles fine, warms up and drives without issue. If I shut the car down after driving it, when I start it back up warm, the idle surges and the wideband is often pegged on lean. If I just pull off, it drives fine generally. This is pretty much NOT intermittent. The first start is fine and subsequent starts have the surging idle and lean AFR's. I changed my Aristo ECU out for a Supra ECU and the issue persists. Yesterday it took a few minutes of driving for the AFR's to correct themselves. That only happened that once (the delayed correction) but it made me think I'd better figure this out before it gets worse. Does anyone have any idea what could cause this or what I could try to fix it?
Thanks
Last edited by Studiogeek; 12-13-15 at 02:02 PM.
12-14-15, 05:10 AM
#2963
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Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: TX
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Has anyone found a way to get past the lowered rev limit on the jdm tt auto ecu? I know jdm tt 6sp is the ideal solution, but the ecu works great in all other areas I hate having to track down and buy an expensive ecu just for that. I can get up to around 5600 rpm then it caps.
12-14-15, 05:34 AM
#2964
Has anyone found a way to get past the lowered rev limit on the jdm tt auto ecu? I know jdm tt 6sp is the ideal solution, but the ecu works great in all other areas I hate having to track down and buy an expensive ecu just for that. I can get up to around 5600 rpm then it caps.
Last edited by Studiogeek; 12-14-15 at 06:03 AM.
12-14-15, 07:07 AM
#2965
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Are you positive you are hitting the rev limiter? I just went from my Aristo ECU to the Supra 6 speed, I know it's higher but didn't notice any real difference. The Aristo ECU revved plenty high for me. It was surely over 5600rpm. Something else may be wrong. Could it be boost/fuel cut? That was my issue.
12-14-15, 07:32 AM
#2966
Hey Guys,
I have a strange issue. It's just an annoyance but anything not right bothers me. When I cold start, the car idles fine, warms up and drives without issue. If I shut the car down after driving it, when I start it back up warm, the idle surges and the wideband is often pegged on lean. If I just pull off, it drives fine generally. This is pretty much NOT intermittent. The first start is fine and subsequent starts have the surging idle and lean AFR's. I changed my Aristo ECU out for a Supra ECU and the issue persists. Yesterday it took a few minutes of driving for the AFR's to correct themselves. That only happened that once (the delayed correction) but it made me think I'd better figure this out before it gets worse. Does anyone have any idea what could cause this or what I could try to fix it?
Thanks
I have a strange issue. It's just an annoyance but anything not right bothers me. When I cold start, the car idles fine, warms up and drives without issue. If I shut the car down after driving it, when I start it back up warm, the idle surges and the wideband is often pegged on lean. If I just pull off, it drives fine generally. This is pretty much NOT intermittent. The first start is fine and subsequent starts have the surging idle and lean AFR's. I changed my Aristo ECU out for a Supra ECU and the issue persists. Yesterday it took a few minutes of driving for the AFR's to correct themselves. That only happened that once (the delayed correction) but it made me think I'd better figure this out before it gets worse. Does anyone have any idea what could cause this or what I could try to fix it?
Thanks
Toyota put a VSV to control the fuel pressure regulator in that richens the mixture at start, but alot of us have removed this to get a more consistent tune.
So I have the same issue, I've just learned to ignore it and drive off as usual and it will correct itself.
AEM actually has a warm temp fuel enrichment setting for this to help. I'm not sure if the VSV can be added back to correct it maybe Ali SC3 can chime in on a way of fixing it? This issue is more noticeable in the summer temps to.
Link from Supraforum:
http://www.supraforums.com/forum/sho...for-FP-control
So after some digging, this is why Ali recommends removing this VSV. If you go into boost to quick the VSV is still cutting pressure to the fuel pressure regulator and it won't adjust properly as boost raises.
you were right to remove the blue vsv on the fuel pressure regulator, thats there on obd2 and cali models to open the FPR to atmosphere after a hot start for a couple minutes, that bumps up the fuel pressure (for a n/a which is always in vacuum) because these motors tend to idle at 16:1 on hot starts for like 30 sec to a minute cause the block is so hot. that is a problem cause the catalytic converter does not work well when its running lean, so they put this vsv on there which was a really stupid way of raising the fuel pressure after a hot start cause it basically ignores the pressure on the intake. Toyota never puts this on the turbo car's only n/a so it should be bypassed. its bad on a turbo car or na-t cause if you hot start and then boost quickly after, then your fpr is open to atmosphere and not seeing the boost, and you go lean, which is bad. always bypass it on a na-t car even if just connecting the 2 vacuum lines together or use a new longer one.
Last edited by HiPSI; 12-14-15 at 07:43 AM.
12-14-15, 07:35 AM
#2967
I'm still NA, I did the ecu swap setup but haven't installed the turbo kit yet. It should run all the way to redline but it gets right around 5600 and feels like very light mini fuel cuts. Not like the fc when I had my previous supra, when it hit fc it was like slamming the car. This just feels like it doesnt want to go past that mark and has a slight stutter until I let off or shift.
It's possible something else might be going on like an ignition break up that feels like a redline. Have you free revved the engine in neutral to find the redline? See if this is different from when driving WOT.
I know the JDM 6 speed supra ecu is 7200 redline, which is slightly increased from the auto aristo ecu.
12-14-15, 08:25 AM
#2968
Hi Psi is pretty on point (thanks!!)
the hot start lean issue is well documented and is completely normal, if it wasn't there then that would be something to be worried about, when you shut the car off the engine block gets warmer due to the coolant not circulating, so when you start the car up that causes the engine to have a lean burn until the coolant temp stabilizes. you can throw more fuel at the issue which is what they did with the blue vsv on 96+ n/a cars, but it isn't necessary as its mainly for emissions the catalytic converter does not work efficiently with a lean mixture so thats why they put it on there to get the cat working faster. Seeing as most of us slapped a large turbo to our cars and injectors, I would go out on a limb and say the main thing we are after is not emissions or catylitic efficiency, so just bury the throttle and it sorts itself out in like 30 seconds of driving.
the 2jz engine itself can handle lean burns up to 17 afr at idle just fine for short intervals of time, and if you notice the 2jzgte never got the vsv, and we are using a 2jzgte ecu.
on the rev limit I noticed a difference between auto and manual, but it was a pretty small difference. sound like the ecu thinks you are in park it will stop you a little bit earlier than true redline I think I read that also in someones thread.
the hot start lean issue is well documented and is completely normal, if it wasn't there then that would be something to be worried about, when you shut the car off the engine block gets warmer due to the coolant not circulating, so when you start the car up that causes the engine to have a lean burn until the coolant temp stabilizes. you can throw more fuel at the issue which is what they did with the blue vsv on 96+ n/a cars, but it isn't necessary as its mainly for emissions the catalytic converter does not work efficiently with a lean mixture so thats why they put it on there to get the cat working faster. Seeing as most of us slapped a large turbo to our cars and injectors, I would go out on a limb and say the main thing we are after is not emissions or catylitic efficiency, so just bury the throttle and it sorts itself out in like 30 seconds of driving.
the 2jz engine itself can handle lean burns up to 17 afr at idle just fine for short intervals of time, and if you notice the 2jzgte never got the vsv, and we are using a 2jzgte ecu.
on the rev limit I noticed a difference between auto and manual, but it was a pretty small difference. sound like the ecu thinks you are in park it will stop you a little bit earlier than true redline I think I read that also in someones thread.
12-14-15, 09:02 AM
#2969
Thank you so much guys!
Would the idle surging be part of the same issue?
One data point I forgot to mention is that I never noticed it until my friend's feet shorted out wires under the carpet by the ECU and SAFC wiring and it blew my EFI fuse. I tried to clean up wiring and replaced the fuse. I never noticed the surging until the day after that or close. Is there a possible connection possibly or am I overthinking this?
Would the idle surging be part of the same issue?
One data point I forgot to mention is that I never noticed it until my friend's feet shorted out wires under the carpet by the ECU and SAFC wiring and it blew my EFI fuse. I tried to clean up wiring and replaced the fuse. I never noticed the surging until the day after that or close. Is there a possible connection possibly or am I overthinking this?
12-14-15, 10:24 AM
#2970
so your idle is going up and down?
mine the idle is generally smooth the wide band just shows leaner than usual.
the surging could be be part of the different piggybacks / settings we are using, you may be removing too much fuel in that spot if its pegged lean it should only be like 16-17 max any leaner you probably have a setting issue.
mine the idle is generally smooth the wide band just shows leaner than usual.
the surging could be be part of the different piggybacks / settings we are using, you may be removing too much fuel in that spot if its pegged lean it should only be like 16-17 max any leaner you probably have a setting issue.