HiPSI

iTrader: (2)

You can regap them.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

I think its the one on the drivers side cause mine has no harness going to it, just an open connector on the steering rack. That didn't fix it... weird that should have done it, maybe there are 2 connectors around there, should be the only reason for turning the wheel and blowing the fuse, nothing else on these cars gets input from the steering wheel that I know of. I would guess no on bridging the wires.

try them first at the .042". if not you can gap down iridiums easily to .032 just do it slowly and try not to go too far, because if you go to far then opening up the gap on iridiums is more difficult the tip tends to break off when you touch it because its so brittle the first time I opened up a gap on a set of Iridiums I destroyed 2 of them, since knowing about it though I can do it without damaging them.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Never looked at which pin could be causing the steering rack thing on the ecu, here are some of the ones I found on the online pinout that may be related.

2JZ-GE pinout
on the 40 pin connector :

PIN 35 PS Power Steering Input This pin is used to determine if there is a large power steering load. Detection of power steering load can be used to improve idle & uturn situations. This pin is connected to Ground when the power steering load is high.

on body plug
these actually go to a body plug from the engine harness, not the main ecu but sounds like the function we are talking about, see how one pin says it goes to the rack.

PIN 4 Proportional Power Steering (PPS) ECU: SOL+ Proportional Power Steering Solenoid Input The body loom side of this pin connects to the proportional power steering ECU SOL+ pin.

The engine loom side of this pin connects to the proportional power steering solenoid (Pin 1) located on the drivers side of the power steering rack.

PIN 14 Proportional Power Steering (PSS) ECU: SOL- Proportional Power Steering Solenoid Input The body loom side of this pin connects to the proportional power steering ECU SOL- pin.

The engine loom side of this pin connects to the proportional power steering solenoid (Pin 2) located on the drivers side of the power steering rack.


I would think disconnecting the switch at the rack would disable that feature. I would ask Aswilley but I haven't heard from him in a while when I tried to message him, maybe you might have better luck.


On the 2JZ-GTE pinout

There is no wire for Pin 35 on the 40 pin ecu connector
There are no wires on the body plug for the SOL+ and SOL- functions above.

So it seems like the connector on the rack goes to those body plug locations, so maybe in addition to pulling the connector one might need to pull ecu pin 35 on the 40 pin connector, but thats really just a guess don't cut it off or anything. make sure you got the right connector first.

also sounds like your car has a proportional power steering ECU somewhere, if you could find it you could probably try disconnecting its connector.

This thread has more info on the PPS system and in t he last few posts there is a picture of it and also where its located is behind the glove box apparently.

187

Just wanted to update after a bit of driving. I've readjusted the tps but I still have a small issue with the cold start acceleration.

I've actually watched the afr and when trying to accelerate through the gears it leans out hard for a second causing the bog from 1-2 2-3 3-4. Its only when cold and will happen every time. I'm concerned about it being so lean though I'm not pushing it hard I still don't like it. Not sure on this one.

Also I plugged that blue fuel vsv in that I know you hate and it got rid of all my hot start lean readings which was nice.

Any idea on the lean acceleration? I'll probably log it over the weekend so I can look the data over at work.

BuffNStuff

Theres actually a couple of plugs down there on the rack. Theyre all really hard to see/get to because of all the a/c lines, wiring harness, oil filter, and on my car the AFPR is right there in the way. I actually unplugged the wrong one the first time which is why it didnt work. I unplugged a smaller clip that looks like an extension of the harness. You have to unplug the bigger clip that sits on the end of that cylinder looking part on the rack. I had to use a flathead to get it unplugged. I tried soldering the wires together, and that blows the efi fuse instantly, i then separated the wires and put shrink wrap on the ends of both wires and zip tied them off to the side out of the way, and that worked. No more efi fuse problems. So yes, for future reference, just unplug it.

I still need to dial in my idle set screw and the tps, but it drives great. There was one pull where it felt like it pulled timing though. I did set my base timing at 8 degrees while at full operating temp, and I heard the engine speed change when bridging the 2 pins at the DIC. ALIsc3 have you experienced any timing being pulled?

I also havent been able to keep an eye on AFRs at WOT yet because I cant take my eyes off the road yet (too scared/looking out for cops lol) but it smells pretty rich.

HiPSI

iTrader: (2)

You may be experiencing an overly rich A/F condition which feels like its bogging or holding back at WOT. You need to tune WOT and lean it out I would guess.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

seems odd that its leaning out that much, generally it does slightly lean out for a split second when you throttle on but it should correct very fast. shouldn't be to the point of loosing power.

what injectors are you running again and how much correction, you may have pulled a touch too much fuel. if you are on 440's then maybe it needs a little more flow.

yeah dont solder them together, I think the wires have power and ground and when the switch closes it shorts the circuit instead of working with the ecu. leaving the connector unplugged is fine just make sure the 2 wires can never touch each other. I would just pull the connector off and wrap the whole thing in tape maybe zip tie it to something solid.

when the ecu is first run it goes at full timing more or less, and as you do pulls it will pull timing where it needs and adjusts, just give it some time. if you were messing around with stuff and you think it pulled too much then just reset the ecu, sometimes it can get a little slower after a while.

its a bit tough to spot the afr gauge yeah, but the stock setup runs very rich, you will likely smell it, pretty normal. just make sure its not reading solid 10 the whole time (aem) or lower than 10 if you have an LC2 or other brand that reads lower. you want to see numbers in the 10-11 range.
Have a friend ride shotgun and have them look at the gauge I find that is priceless when trying to street tune.

sounds like its getting there just a few more tweaks. when you run a piggyback fuel controller you can dial in the WOT afr to your liking, but running it rich will be ok for boost but you may get some carbon buildup over time. run some top end cleaners every once in a while through the tank.

yeah once you get to that point if you find its too rich a piggyback can help dial it in. also note that it will change a point or so depending on the weather (since its open loop) so keep an eye on it in different seasons when in full boost.

187

I have the os tiger 550cc's with no correction atm. i can increase the fuel at idle to maybe mitigate this?

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

are you on the maf or the vpc at the moment. if the vpc try messing with those settings some more now that the injectors are fixed. might just be a usdm issue. also when you let off inbetween shifts it can go lean, maybe I am not understanding whats going on exactly. chances are the aftermarket injectors flow fine or slightly more, but it is possible they flow a little less than stock usdm 550's.

joe diego

iTrader: (3)

What needs to be done before deleting the distributor? I have my timing at around 8 degrees. Is it necessary to have it top dead center?

asianic68

quick question do i use the same signal ground as i used for the map sensor to the iat sensor?
or do i use the other ground that was one the maf plug?
and also the open element gm iat has a black and red wire i assume signal ground is black and signal iat is red correct.. thanks

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

I dont understand this question, what are you trying to do, what stage are you at?

yes use the same ground, it needs to be a ground for a 5v item.
usually it doesn't matter as the IAT is just a resistor, connect them any way you feel like it.

joe diego

iTrader: (3)

Map, iat, aristo ecu, injectors,... all installed. Car is running fine.

I just purchased vvti coils and wires and I'm ready to delete the distributor now, but I'm not sure if I need to have the engine at tdc before I remove the dis..

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

I think you were a bit mislead by the term "distributor delete".

It should really be, "removing the top half of the distributor and leaving the base of it still in the engine"

How it goes it that the base of the distributor has the cam (2 of them) and crank sensor (just 1 of these) and the 2 gears that spin around and make the signals. you can't remove this base part without finding another way to provide the cam and crank sensors. most na-t don't go that far, we leave the base in and just remove the cap (3 bolts) and the rotor (2 phillips head screws), and then you used to have to make a custom shorter cap, but nowadays you can buy an aluminum cover that bolts right on.

so you are only removing the top half, and you can still rotate the base to adjust the timing (cause thats where the signals come from).

To do a true distributor delete, you would have to install a 96+ 2jzge oil pump which has a spot for a real crank sensor on the crank, along with the 12 tooth 2jzgte cam gear (if using the non-vvti ecu like in this thread as all the gears that came on the 2jzge were a 36-2 wheel and incompatible with the old 2jzgte ecu's) and then you have a crank sensor setup that is exactly like it comes on a 2jzgte... see where I am going with this.

Then you need 2 cam sensors, like a gte (surprise...). some people swap on a 2jzgte head and that makes it super easy they are there from factory, and you also need at least a 2jzgte intake cam which has the right stubs on it to trigger the cam sensors (2jzge cam wont work doesn't have them).
Some people take a 2jzge head and just drill out a hole where the cam sensors would be on a gte, and then have a shop weld on the cam sensor bung, and presto you just copied the gte setup and with a gte cam you can also work it like that.

So you can see how all of that is a pain just to fully delete the distributor, which is why many of us just remove the top half and put the aluminum cover on it, cause you can run a large turbo and intake pipe and have all the space you need still, deleting the base at that point is just cosmetic... unless you are pushing 1000hp and need super accurate timing (cause you are pushing the edge of timing as well) then there is an advantage to using the crank sensor on the crank and cam sensors on the cams cause there is less "timing drift" as the distributor is run by the exhaust cam which is run by the timing belt so there is a little play a couple degrees here and there you can see it with a timing light when you are setting the timing the white line is not perfectly still. for majority of us, and basically anyone on a stock ecu, its not a problem at all cause the timing is not tuned aggressively from the factory in boost, and a degree here or there wont matter much on a safe tune.

But if you have a setup on a standalone that pushes the envelope where every degree matters, the 2jzgte setup is better and actually at that point most hardcore users ditch the factory ones and install a hall sensor setup, which is a digital sensor versus the factory magnetic type. They do this because a hall sensor setup properly does not experience any drift and is the most accurate way to time an engine, when that extra 2 degrees makes all the difference between running fast and blowing the motor.

So in short just remove the cap with the wires, remove the rotor underneath that, get a shorty cover and bolt it on. also install the coilpacks at the same time (remember you just removed all the plug wires so you have to), and thats it thats the na-t "distributor delete". the distributor base puts out the same signals as a 2jzgte so it works.

if you notice I still have the base of the distributor in, should look like this, and you can still adjust timing by turning it.
You don't have to actually pull it out to take off the cap and rotor, so you dont have to worry about timing.
but yes if you were to remove the base at some point its easiest practice to set the motor to TDC, and then pull it out and put it back in, and then set timing again with the light.

joe diego

iTrader: (3)

I really appreciate your detailed explanation. I should of been a little more detailed in my question.