2JZGE Na-T TT Ecu Mod
09-27-15, 05:24 AM
#2806
I noticed Spooling on Youtube also has 550's and his SAFC "corr" value is set to "22%". Mine is set to 13% but it only runs rich at WOT.
14's at idle generally (yesterday I saw some 11's at idle but mostly when cold and I don't think I have heated o2 sensors)
14's cruising
Straight 10's at WOT
If I crank up the corr value, it will make everything else too lean right?
Maybe he used less global correction and cranked down the individual rev ranges by hand. Does it work this way?
14's at idle generally (yesterday I saw some 11's at idle but mostly when cold and I don't think I have heated o2 sensors)
14's cruising
Straight 10's at WOT
If I crank up the corr value, it will make everything else too lean right?
Maybe he used less global correction and cranked down the individual rev ranges by hand. Does it work this way?
Last edited by Studiogeek; 09-27-15 at 05:36 AM.
09-27-15, 04:43 PM
#2807
No problem, yeah thats my youtube account.
Tuning this "mod" is no different from piggy back tuning a stock supra. It's the exact same thing. If someone can tune AEM or anything complicated they can piggyback tune. MAPECU even has downloadable base maps on their website. I would suggest joining their free forum and reading up on 2JZ related stuff because there is alot of good info there. Everyone that has a 2JZ is tuning it the same way you would be.
Just know that they may need to pull the o2 sensor harness to read what actual A/F ratios are and then reset ecu and connect it back.
I've tried different settings and my current one works good at 21-22% pulled out across the RPM band in low TPS settings. It starts around 11.9-12, warms up to stoich 14.7-15.3 A/F. Sometimes when I hot start it in the dead hot summer it starts lean and then clears out after pulling away from the parking spot. Ali has stated this is normal just for cylinder temps during that temperature condition when you first start it after its been sitting after driving.
if your wideband reads 10.0 even then you have some room to lean it out. Which wideband do you have? Because if it's the AEM UEGO it will not read below 10.0 rich, you may be well into 9's which is flooding it. Reason I know is I had an AEM UEGO prior, switched to the innovate wideband which reads in the 9's and it was 9.2:1 at WOT
. I leaned it out and it was so obvious the power that picked up. You are safe to appx 11.5 A/F on pump gas. They always say leaner is meaner, but there is a limit to power and being safe on the gas you are on.
What do you mean global correction? what are you currently tuning with? The safc neo you tune within rpm ranges, but generally you want to keep the same correction value across the rpm band in low TPS voltage which is idle / cruise / decel. In the high TPS voltage or WOT bands you could have some different correction values depending on how your setup is. I wouldn't really touch it below 4k RPM though. There is a switch point where the GTE ecu switches to open loop WOT tuning to and I believe its right around 4k.
Wow,
Loads of knowledge dropped between these two answers. Thank you both so much
.
My wallet is happy!
No AEM for me. It is way over my head. I need the TT looking over me and chastising and correcting my piggyback!
I'm going to install the Mapecu3. If after a great tune, I can learn to monitor and tweak that, I will consider standalone. Being tied to another guy I pay as much as my attorney is something I'd like to avoid.
I can find good 2J tuners but none that know the TT ECU mod or the MapEcu3. I have selected two guys willing to try it.
Is there anything in particular they should know. They are also installing the MAPECU and removing the SAFC.
The wiring is going to be all different then they are used to.
It may be a great idea to make a quick briefing sheet to alert any mechanics that work on TT ECU mod cars to the crucial differences in the wiring.
Anything crucial and different in the wiring a mechanic will encounter when installing the MAPECU3?
Anyone got a great map for 550's?
Thanks!
Double appreciation for this answer with a broken hand, sorry man!
Loads of knowledge dropped between these two answers. Thank you both so much
.My wallet is happy!
No AEM for me. It is way over my head. I need the TT looking over me and chastising and correcting my piggyback!
I'm going to install the Mapecu3. If after a great tune, I can learn to monitor and tweak that, I will consider standalone. Being tied to another guy I pay as much as my attorney is something I'd like to avoid.
I can find good 2J tuners but none that know the TT ECU mod or the MapEcu3. I have selected two guys willing to try it.
Is there anything in particular they should know. They are also installing the MAPECU and removing the SAFC.
The wiring is going to be all different then they are used to.
It may be a great idea to make a quick briefing sheet to alert any mechanics that work on TT ECU mod cars to the crucial differences in the wiring.
Anything crucial and different in the wiring a mechanic will encounter when installing the MAPECU3?
Anyone got a great map for 550's?
Thanks!
Double appreciation for this answer with a broken hand, sorry man!
Just know that they may need to pull the o2 sensor harness to read what actual A/F ratios are and then reset ecu and connect it back.
I noticed Spooling on Youtube also has 550's and his SAFC "corr" value is set to "22%". Mine is set to 13% but it only runs rich at WOT.
14's at idle generally (yesterday I saw some 11's at idle but mostly when cold and I don't think I have heated o2 sensors)
14's cruising
Straight 10's at WOT
If I crank up the corr value, it will make everything else too lean right?
Maybe he used less global correction and cranked down the individual rev ranges by hand. Does it work this way?
14's at idle generally (yesterday I saw some 11's at idle but mostly when cold and I don't think I have heated o2 sensors)
14's cruising
Straight 10's at WOT
If I crank up the corr value, it will make everything else too lean right?
Maybe he used less global correction and cranked down the individual rev ranges by hand. Does it work this way?
if your wideband reads 10.0 even then you have some room to lean it out. Which wideband do you have? Because if it's the AEM UEGO it will not read below 10.0 rich, you may be well into 9's which is flooding it. Reason I know is I had an AEM UEGO prior, switched to the innovate wideband which reads in the 9's and it was 9.2:1 at WOT
. I leaned it out and it was so obvious the power that picked up. You are safe to appx 11.5 A/F on pump gas. They always say leaner is meaner, but there is a limit to power and being safe on the gas you are on. What do you mean global correction? what are you currently tuning with? The safc neo you tune within rpm ranges, but generally you want to keep the same correction value across the rpm band in low TPS voltage which is idle / cruise / decel. In the high TPS voltage or WOT bands you could have some different correction values depending on how your setup is. I wouldn't really touch it below 4k RPM though. There is a switch point where the GTE ecu switches to open loop WOT tuning to and I believe its right around 4k.
09-28-15, 03:24 PM
#2808
the 14's just means the o2 can still correct, but you can be off quite a bit and it'll still find 14 on idle/cruise.
sounds like you are too rich. with 550's you should be closer to -20%
the safc is simple to tune on the JDM ecu, you just pull out the same number across all rpm ranges for low and high.
Do not change the individual rev ranges (exception are fine tuning the higher rpm's for tuning boost), but its not necessary cause you can just move the whole map to the new % cause that works fine for map based ecu's.
so you put in -15-25% a bunch of times try richer % and work way to leaner. you want the cold start to be around 10.5-12 afr depending how cold it is, basically what you dont want is a solid 10 afr (could be little richer or a lot richer), and then boost you should see that gauge in the 11 afr area, if its a solid 10, then that is too rich (remember you dont know how much) and you loose power. also running 10 afr is a good way to get carbon deposits. avoid that.
pulling the o2 connector can be a good technique as you can see how rich its running and I posted info how to tune that on the previous page.
here is the wiring diagram for map ecu2/3 JDM 2JZGTE ecu
http://www.mapecu.com/wp-content/upl...JZ-GTE-JDM.pdf
you find that here
http://www.mapecu.com/2014/05/mapecu-wiring-diagrams/
the map ecu comes with some tables you can load it prob has a jdm gte ecu w/ 550's map. if not you can find some on the forum
I have heard the map ecu 3 can import v1 and v2 calibrations and they do have them for the v1.
mine wont work for you guys I have mine custom loaded to run more vacuum cells due to altitude here.
http://www.mapecu.co.nz/forum/forum.php
sounds like you are too rich. with 550's you should be closer to -20%
the safc is simple to tune on the JDM ecu, you just pull out the same number across all rpm ranges for low and high.
Do not change the individual rev ranges (exception are fine tuning the higher rpm's for tuning boost), but its not necessary cause you can just move the whole map to the new % cause that works fine for map based ecu's.
so you put in -15-25% a bunch of times try richer % and work way to leaner. you want the cold start to be around 10.5-12 afr depending how cold it is, basically what you dont want is a solid 10 afr (could be little richer or a lot richer), and then boost you should see that gauge in the 11 afr area, if its a solid 10, then that is too rich (remember you dont know how much) and you loose power. also running 10 afr is a good way to get carbon deposits. avoid that.
pulling the o2 connector can be a good technique as you can see how rich its running and I posted info how to tune that on the previous page.
here is the wiring diagram for map ecu2/3 JDM 2JZGTE ecu
http://www.mapecu.com/wp-content/upl...JZ-GTE-JDM.pdf
you find that here
http://www.mapecu.com/2014/05/mapecu-wiring-diagrams/
the map ecu comes with some tables you can load it prob has a jdm gte ecu w/ 550's map. if not you can find some on the forum
I have heard the map ecu 3 can import v1 and v2 calibrations and they do have them for the v1.
mine wont work for you guys I have mine custom loaded to run more vacuum cells due to altitude here.
http://www.mapecu.co.nz/forum/forum.php
Last edited by Ali SC3; 09-28-15 at 03:33 PM.
09-29-15, 02:45 AM
#2809
No problem, yeah thats my youtube account.
Tuning this "mod" is no different from piggy back tuning a stock supra. It's the exact same thing. If someone can tune AEM or anything complicated they can piggyback tune. MAPECU even has downloadable base maps on their website. I would suggest joining their free forum and reading up on 2JZ related stuff because there is alot of good info there. Everyone that has a 2JZ is tuning it the same way you would be.
Awesome! I feel better about this now.
Just know that they may need to pull the o2 sensor harness to read what actual A/F ratios are and then reset ecu and connect it back.
I will, thanks.
I've tried different settings and my current one works good at 21-22% pulled out across the RPM band in low TPS settings. It starts around 11.9-12, warms up to stoich 14.7-15.3 A/F. Sometimes when I hot start it in the dead hot summer it starts lean and then clears out after pulling away from the parking spot. Ali has stated this is normal just for cylinder temps during that temperature condition when you first start it after its been sitting after driving.
I am going to read the manual, watch a few videos and try dialing it back. Thanks.
if your wideband reads 10.0 even then you have some room to lean it out. Which wideband do you have? Because if it's the AEM UEGO it will not read below 10.0 rich, you may be well into 9's which is flooding it. Reason I know is I had an AEM UEGO prior, switched to the innovate wideband which reads in the 9's and it was 9.2:1 at WOT. I leaned it out and it was so obvious the power that picked up. You are safe to appx 11.5 A/F on pump gas. They always say leaner is meaner, but there is a limit to power and being safe on the gas you are on.
It stops at 10, I'm sure it's lower and likely flooding with fuel. It is an AEM
What do you mean global correction? what are you currently tuning with? The safc neo you tune within rpm ranges, but generally you want to keep the same correction value across the rpm band in low TPS voltage which is idle / cruise / decel. In the high TPS voltage or WOT bands you could have some different correction values depending on how your setup is. I wouldn't really touch it below 4k RPM though. There is a switch point where the GTE ecu switches to open loop WOT tuning to and I believe its right around 4k.
The way I have my display set up, It shows a "core" value with a percentage all the time, I mistakenly thought this was a "global" correction of 13% it was showing me. I guess it's not. I am tuning with the SAFC NEO right now but I will likely swap that out for the MapEcu3 pretty soon. These answers from you guys are making me feel much more comfortable about adjusting it
Tuning this "mod" is no different from piggy back tuning a stock supra. It's the exact same thing. If someone can tune AEM or anything complicated they can piggyback tune. MAPECU even has downloadable base maps on their website. I would suggest joining their free forum and reading up on 2JZ related stuff because there is alot of good info there. Everyone that has a 2JZ is tuning it the same way you would be.
Awesome! I feel better about this now.
Just know that they may need to pull the o2 sensor harness to read what actual A/F ratios are and then reset ecu and connect it back.
I will, thanks.
I've tried different settings and my current one works good at 21-22% pulled out across the RPM band in low TPS settings. It starts around 11.9-12, warms up to stoich 14.7-15.3 A/F. Sometimes when I hot start it in the dead hot summer it starts lean and then clears out after pulling away from the parking spot. Ali has stated this is normal just for cylinder temps during that temperature condition when you first start it after its been sitting after driving.
I am going to read the manual, watch a few videos and try dialing it back. Thanks.
if your wideband reads 10.0 even then you have some room to lean it out. Which wideband do you have? Because if it's the AEM UEGO it will not read below 10.0 rich, you may be well into 9's which is flooding it. Reason I know is I had an AEM UEGO prior, switched to the innovate wideband which reads in the 9's and it was 9.2:1 at WOT
. I leaned it out and it was so obvious the power that picked up. You are safe to appx 11.5 A/F on pump gas. They always say leaner is meaner, but there is a limit to power and being safe on the gas you are on. It stops at 10, I'm sure it's lower and likely flooding with fuel. It is an AEM
What do you mean global correction? what are you currently tuning with? The safc neo you tune within rpm ranges, but generally you want to keep the same correction value across the rpm band in low TPS voltage which is idle / cruise / decel. In the high TPS voltage or WOT bands you could have some different correction values depending on how your setup is. I wouldn't really touch it below 4k RPM though. There is a switch point where the GTE ecu switches to open loop WOT tuning to and I believe its right around 4k.
The way I have my display set up, It shows a "core" value with a percentage all the time, I mistakenly thought this was a "global" correction of 13% it was showing me. I guess it's not. I am tuning with the SAFC NEO right now but I will likely swap that out for the MapEcu3 pretty soon. These answers from you guys are making me feel much more comfortable about adjusting it
09-29-15, 02:55 AM
#2810
the 14's just means the o2 can still correct, but you can be off quite a bit and it'll still find 14 on idle/cruise.
Ok, cool, thanks!
sounds like you are too rich. with 550's you should be closer to -20%
the safc is simple to tune on the JDM ecu, you just pull out the same number across all rpm ranges for low and high.
Do not change the individual rev ranges (exception are fine tuning the higher rpm's for tuning boost), but its not necessary cause you can just move the whole map to the new % cause that works fine for map based ecu's.
OK, cool. I will play with it today if I feel brave LOL
so you put in -15-25% a bunch of times try richer % and work way to leaner. you want the cold start to be around 10.5-12 afr depending how cold it is, basically what you don't want is a solid 10 afr (could be little richer or a lot richer), and then boost you should see that gauge in the 11 afr area, if its a solid 10, then that is too rich (remember you dont know how much) and you loose power. also running 10 afr is a good way to get carbon deposits. avoid that.
I am on this. Either I will adjust it or I will take it to a pro for a tune and watch him. Thanks!
pulling the o2 connector can be a good technique as you can see how rich its running and I posted info how to tune that on the previous page.
I'll try that too!
here is the wiring diagram for map ecu2/3 JDM 2JZGTE ecu
http://www.mapecu.com/wp-content/upl...JZ-GTE-JDM.pdf
That will help, thank you! My concern wiring wise was that I wanted to make sure future mechanics (including the installer of the MapEcu3) understand changes we made to the wiring as it will be different from what is in their book or computer program for the SC300. As HIPSI said above, I guess I tell mechanics to treat it like a Supra as far as wiring goes.
you find that here
http://www.mapecu.com/2014/05/mapecu-wiring-diagrams/
the map ecu comes with some tables you can load it prob has a jdm gte ecu w/ 550's map. if not you can find some on the forum
I have heard the map ecu 3 can import v1 and v2 calibrations and they do have them for the v1.
mine wont work for you guys I have mine custom loaded to run more vacuum cells due to altitude here.
http://www.mapecu.co.nz/forum/forum.php
Thank you sir! I am installing the Mapecu3 for sure soon.
Ok, cool, thanks!
sounds like you are too rich. with 550's you should be closer to -20%
the safc is simple to tune on the JDM ecu, you just pull out the same number across all rpm ranges for low and high.
Do not change the individual rev ranges (exception are fine tuning the higher rpm's for tuning boost), but its not necessary cause you can just move the whole map to the new % cause that works fine for map based ecu's.
OK, cool. I will play with it today if I feel brave
LOLso you put in -15-25% a bunch of times try richer % and work way to leaner. you want the cold start to be around 10.5-12 afr depending how cold it is, basically what you don't want is a solid 10 afr (could be little richer or a lot richer), and then boost you should see that gauge in the 11 afr area, if its a solid 10, then that is too rich (remember you dont know how much) and you loose power. also running 10 afr is a good way to get carbon deposits. avoid that.
I am on this. Either I will adjust it or I will take it to a pro for a tune and watch him. Thanks!
pulling the o2 connector can be a good technique as you can see how rich its running and I posted info how to tune that on the previous page.
I'll try that too!
here is the wiring diagram for map ecu2/3 JDM 2JZGTE ecu
http://www.mapecu.com/wp-content/upl...JZ-GTE-JDM.pdf
That will help, thank you! My concern wiring wise was that I wanted to make sure future mechanics (including the installer of the MapEcu3) understand changes we made to the wiring as it will be different from what is in their book or computer program for the SC300. As HIPSI said above, I guess I tell mechanics to treat it like a Supra as far as wiring goes.
you find that here
http://www.mapecu.com/2014/05/mapecu-wiring-diagrams/
the map ecu comes with some tables you can load it prob has a jdm gte ecu w/ 550's map. if not you can find some on the forum
I have heard the map ecu 3 can import v1 and v2 calibrations and they do have them for the v1.
mine wont work for you guys I have mine custom loaded to run more vacuum cells due to altitude here.
http://www.mapecu.co.nz/forum/forum.php
Thank you sir! I am installing the Mapecu3 for sure soon.
Last edited by Studiogeek; 09-29-15 at 02:59 AM.
09-29-15, 10:03 AM
#2811
Forgot to update over the weekend but there was no positive results. The vpc settings had no real effect other than at idle. The car runs very poorly with the 02 disconnected when trying to drive \ cruise no matter the settings. I had to stop many times just because it was just too lean. The car with the 02 connected drives the same regardless of settings as well. Somehow the ecu compensates no matter what. I wanted to look more into the fuel because of some other testing, I'll post some more when I'm not mobile.
09-29-15, 12:28 PM
#2813
Forgot to update over the weekend but there was no positive results. The vpc settings had no real effect other than at idle. The car runs very poorly with the 02 disconnected when trying to drive \ cruise no matter the settings. I had to stop many times just because it was just too lean. The car with the 02 connected drives the same regardless of settings as well. Somehow the ecu compensates no matter what. I wanted to look more into the fuel because of some other testing, I'll post some more when I'm not mobile.
09-29-15, 05:58 PM
#2814
I can hook up the MAF and unplug the VPC but I believe I tried this in the past and it had the same issue with holding an steady rpm parked.
One of the things I did over the weekend was remove the air assist hose for the manifold. The funny thing is that when you take it off the car can idle fine properly adjusted of course. However if you try to drive it the fuels all over the place, mainly lean with the 02 connected.
So what I was thinking is that the obd2 style injectors are relying heavily on that air assist in combination with the IACV. So the injectors are changing in a way that the tt ecu either does not like or can't deal with? I think there is a check valve in there for boost conditions but either way the fuel trims would be out of wack. Maybe no one really runs into this with the obd1 runner and injectors. Just a thought because I'm running out of things to point fingers at. I wish there was more information out there on this.
One of the things I did over the weekend was remove the air assist hose for the manifold. The funny thing is that when you take it off the car can idle fine properly adjusted of course. However if you try to drive it the fuels all over the place, mainly lean with the 02 connected.
So what I was thinking is that the obd2 style injectors are relying heavily on that air assist in combination with the IACV. So the injectors are changing in a way that the tt ecu either does not like or can't deal with? I think there is a check valve in there for boost conditions but either way the fuel trims would be out of wack. Maybe no one really runs into this with the obd1 runner and injectors. Just a thought because I'm running out of things to point fingers at. I wish there was more information out there on this.
09-30-15, 06:58 AM
#2815
Here is a horribly filmed peek at my SAFC settings. I asked Jason why the cut is so low, he said something about timing and dyno tuning that went over my head but I am sending the car back up to him to tweak the tune and fix the diff. The settings look unusual but somehow, it was pretty much perfect except for WOT being crazy rich. 14's at idle when warm and 14's cruising. I have no idea what I am looking at, but it looks like plenty is cut by 4500, why am I still throwing 10's at WOT?
SC300 NA/T, 550's TT ECU
SC300 NA/T, 550's TT ECU
Last edited by Studiogeek; 09-30-15 at 07:03 AM.
09-30-15, 08:55 AM
#2816
I finally got the tach to work. It idles fine for a few minutes then shuts off when it warms up. I've disconnected and re-connected the 3 different O2 sensors with the same results. It's giving my codes 21 and 47. Any help would be appreciated.
10-02-15, 06:14 PM
#2817
So as of late I found that an unbolted ground right where the washer fluid fill was not attached, now no power loss to fuel when lights are on.
I also had the plenum welded to the intake manifold and a plate (iacv) underneath the intake welded on along with a nipple in the piping. Needless to say the car is far more docile.
In my haste to finish the car tonight I first didn't attach the brake vacuum hose, then I found I didn't tighten three of the four throttle body bolts. All fixed and test drove with the wideband.
Next up it's the install of the fcd, safc, and slc.
Sorry if it's too many pictures I'm just excited about this setup.
I also had the plenum welded to the intake manifold and a plate (iacv) underneath the intake welded on along with a nipple in the piping. Needless to say the car is far more docile.
In my haste to finish the car tonight I first didn't attach the brake vacuum hose, then I found I didn't tighten three of the four throttle body bolts. All fixed and test drove with the wideband.
Next up it's the install of the fcd, safc, and slc.
Sorry if it's too many pictures I'm just excited about this setup.
10-05-15, 04:08 PM
#2818
Pole Position
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Arizona
Posts: 301
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So, As many of you have read, I did the OBD2 tt ecu mod a while ago, and it worked okay after a lot of work. My only real issue was that my BOV was non recirculating and it would stall after big pulls, and it ran a little rich in boost. I then went standalone on a v2 and my tuner couldnt get the drivability to where I wanted it because it kept stalling, and hard starting.
NOW i am switching to a JDM 6 speed ecu from a supra, and I need to know what the differences in wiring would be for me since I am already wired for a USDM Ecu with the exception of I am now running a map and IAT sensor and no MAF. The car is a 1997 so I already have the 4 wire O2.
NOW i am switching to a JDM 6 speed ecu from a supra, and I need to know what the differences in wiring would be for me since I am already wired for a USDM Ecu with the exception of I am now running a map and IAT sensor and no MAF. The car is a 1997 so I already have the 4 wire O2.
10-05-15, 04:33 PM
#2819
So, As many of you have read, I did the OBD2 tt ecu mod a while ago, and it worked okay after a lot of work. My only real issue was that my BOV was non recirculating and it would stall after big pulls, and it ran a little rich in boost. I then went standalone on a v2 and my tuner couldnt get the drivability to where I wanted it because it kept stalling, and hard starting.
NOW i am switching to a JDM 6 speed ecu from a supra, and I need to know what the differences in wiring would be for me since I am already wired for a USDM Ecu with the exception of I am now running a map and IAT sensor and no MAF. The car is a 1997 so I already have the 4 wire O2.
NOW i am switching to a JDM 6 speed ecu from a supra, and I need to know what the differences in wiring would be for me since I am already wired for a USDM Ecu with the exception of I am now running a map and IAT sensor and no MAF. The car is a 1997 so I already have the 4 wire O2.
But what injector size are you running? The JDM ecu expects 440cc where USDM requires 550cc.
10-05-15, 05:06 PM
#2820
I'm wondering if the location of the air assist (yellow blocks) has an impact on my injectors. The VVTI 2jz has the hose after the butterfly, where the non-VVTI has it off of the IACV. Also my injectors came flow tested without any air assist I would assume, so why can't the car run & drive without the assist?
I would think the VVTI style is better being after the butterfly. It's almost like the air assist on the non-vvti would only cause problems because it bypasses the throttle plate.
Thoughts anyone?