Milwaukee

I have no doubts that it will be a blast to drive, this project will definitely be more ratsun than anything since I don't have the patience for a full resto and she will be getting the hammer a lot.
The motor I got was complete out of an sc and I have the entire harness, except the part that goes to the connectors on the passenger side kick panel were clipped...but the part that plugs into the ecu is still intact, so I should be good.

I will do more research on the coils and I agree on the "one thing at a time" approach, it saves some headaches in the future. I will be running a ffim since I really like the way it clears up the engine...looks less busy, which I like. I'm still on the drawing board as far as the rest of the system goes, so far I just have the basics down: na-t, upgraded fuel system, jdm ecu, cd009 6speed, coilover suspension and all the cancer spots removed.

I have a couple pics on flickr under j.mack1979

Won't be the best looker in the brothel...but she'll put a smile on your face.

407will

Ali sc3
does a aem 2 bar map sensor will work on this ecu mod?

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

looks like its going to take quite a bit of fab to get it in there, and with the cd0009 that will be tricky hope the shifter comes out in the right place I know those trans are a little too long for our cars we have to make a wierd shifter bracket to even make it work, not sure about the Z might be right...

should be fun and keep you busy. yeah the ffim is a fun project in itself, you have your work cut out already.
the little plugs that are cut by the main ecu plugs is the body plugs, those go to things in the car, some go to power stuff. The Z is fairly simple dash wise I assume so you shouldn't have to connect more than a handfull of things, you can probably find the colors online somewhere. its easier when its in the plug but it can still be done.

407will, the only map sensor that works with the JDM 2jzgte ecu is the 2jzgte map sensor (US or JDM). you can also use a 1jz map sensor or mr2 map sensor, they are the same part basically.
I have not been able to get a aem 3.5 bar, gm 3 bar, or motorolla 2.5 bar to work (I haven't tried a 2 bar it might read too much load and hit boost cut earlier... might), although the motorolla did start the car it was just horribly lean and died right away so maybe with bigger injectors. I wouldn't start experimenting with this stuff I tried 3 times and didn't work each time... but with the stock map sensor it will work right away with 440's and even 550's but will just run rich, could affect boost.
you can also use a map ecu and then you do not need the 2jzgte map sensor, the map ecu has its own map sensor and simulates the stock 2jz map sensor output to the ecu.
I recommend starting with the stock map sensor and if you need to run more boost use a safc and boost cut controller, or get a map ecu which is basically both combined and gives you alot more control over the jdm ecu.

407will

Ali
Turbo presure sensor from 91-95 mr2 usdm is ok? Never mind read your answer a few times and you said 2jz usdm or jdm is ok I will assume the same goes for the mr2
Thank u Alisc3' you are a great asset in this forum

alwyzDTF

Been hunting for 2JZ OBD2 style top feed high impedance 11mm injectors for a long time now and I cant find any information regrading the topic other than "test is300 injectors or get obd1 style lower runner" and those post are a few years old.

considering it's been a few years...

Question is: Does anyone make or know of a company producing any injectors for the OBD2 style lower runner for the 2JZGE yet? (440cc will work but 550cc preferred)

also called around to find rx7 550cc injectors and keep getting told they are discontinued now and I can't find where to purchase the OBD1 style lower runner or id just get that and some OBD1 style injectors.

Thanks for your time guys!

HiPSI

iTrader: (2)

Best place to find OBD1 lower runners is eBay or craigslist or the classifieds on here.

The injectors I have are 550cc injectors from osidetiger, they are plug and play to the OBD1 lower intake manifold and stock fuel rail, and injector harness plugs.

187

I've said this before but I'm on the is300 style injectors with obd2 lower intake. The fit wasn't amazing but I've no issues with them thus far.

alwyzDTF

I was more so asking if they made obd2 aftermarket injectors yet because I was hoping for a perfect fit.

Just curious, would it be possible to run the od1 injectors and switch out the bottom oring with one that would make them fit a little better (possibly just transfer my OBD2 injector seals over to the new injectors?

just looking for the best possible way to seal my OBD2 setup.
I can't find OBD1 lower runners anywhere at the moment so im trying to make what ive got work.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

I haven't used one from an mr2, but I am 99.999% they are the same map sensor as the boost cut controller we use on the 2jz is actually meant for the mr2 map sensor. thats why they say "3S-GT SW20" on the front its actually meant for an mr2 they just use the same part on supra's.
Thanks always trying to help out the na-t crowd (and even the gte guys sometimes)

I don't recommend rx7 injectors anymore, the spray pattern is not that great for piston engines turns out, but it will get the minimum job done though if that is all you are looking for.

you can use obd1 on the obd2 runners, people have reported it works fine just not a perfect fit. if you do this I would try bypass the air hose from the throttle body / idle air valve (cap off both ends).

there are those IS300 ones and as said above they sort of fit also (news to me). I see them coming in 550cc flavors online but not much larger for that. if you ever plan to go huge on injectors just use the obd1 style or change the lower runner. if you can live with 550's then try the IS300 ones.

what was off about the fit? very interested to see which part was off.

you might have to use some combintation of orings but members have made obd1 and obd2 ones work on those runners, so just go with obd1 and bypass the air hose and call it a day.

187

The only part of the fit that wasn't great was the lower o ring. On the stock injectors the o ring seems to sit a hair lower because the tip of the stock injector is just barley longer than the after market injectors.

When I installed them I didn't get that super snug feeling that that lower o-ring was in far enough, like it was just sitting on the edge. I played with it a bit but you could tell it was right there. Top seal was 100% like stock fit prefect. And nothing has happened since.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

I see what you are saying now. well that bottom oring isn't as important as the top one but its probably close enough to be fine and keep the air assist hose. some of the injectors have the longer pintle caps as well and that can make it look different but I bet its close enough that it works as long as the oring is in contact with the hole and shouldn't move around once bolted down.

always check for leaks after messing with the injectors, better safe than sorry guys.

187

What is the real purpose of that air hose?

I had my extinguisher ready after that install just in case.

spoolxexo

iTrader: (4)

I'm really surprised no one has suggested placing tha MAF *AFTER* the turbo.

I have a friend who has 2jzgte vvti swapped his gs300, has a BW S366 on it and has run the maf in the intercooler piping and he car runs great.

Either way I would rock Native Speed density with an Aristo ECU before confusing the USDM setup with a VPC/SAFC combo that is about as old as Dinosaurs anywasy!

Sonnieism

Hey ali, just got my sc300 nat project running. It has a gte headgasket, arp head studs, 525 cc injectors, jdm aristo ecu, igniter, jdm map, and all that good stuff. my problem is that it idles fine but won't drive. It runs rich and bogs ojt. I have to give it constant gas to prevent stalling. when the turbo spools, it bogs really bad and almost dies. Could it be a vaccum leak of some sort. I Have around -_ at idle and it bogs at any positive pressure. Thanks in advance

Sonnieism

Also I am getting a code 14 and 47 after the mod. Not sure why, swapped ecus, ran wires from ecu pins directly to igniter, and still the same code 14