2JZGE Na-T TT Ecu Mod
08-12-13, 08:56 AM
#1081
the stock fuel pressure regulator rises 1:1 with boost, see the vacuum nipple on the top of it that means it is directly referenced to manifold pressure. its one of those things everyone keeps giving false info on there is no truth to that at all.
the stock regulator works perfectly for boost I have been using an entirely stock fuel system minus a walboro pump and injectors. I have not done the 12v fuel mod or the dampener bypass and am using the factory fuel ecu, and my afr's are solid rich 10-10.5:1 in boost a and then at idle, driving and cruise hovers around 14.5-15.5.
which ecu and injectors are you using again and how much boost? sounds like the o2 is not working or the ecu is having issues with larger injectors, or both.
the stock regulator works perfectly for boost I have been using an entirely stock fuel system minus a walboro pump and injectors. I have not done the 12v fuel mod or the dampener bypass and am using the factory fuel ecu, and my afr's are solid rich 10-10.5:1 in boost a and then at idle, driving and cruise hovers around 14.5-15.5.
which ecu and injectors are you using again and how much boost? sounds like the o2 is not working or the ecu is having issues with larger injectors, or both.
08-12-13, 10:45 AM
#1083
you could have an intake leak somewhere or some kind of issue, with 440's you should be full 10:0 rich at 10 psi, and there is no reason the idle should be that rich with just 440's. I would guess maybe you have a leak and the also the o2 is probably not working yet. make sure you are using the right wire for the o2 the aristo ecu only uses 1 o2 sensor.
08-12-13, 02:59 PM
#1085
yeah I don't know why everyones having o2 sensor issues. you can reuse the stock wiring, you just have to figure out which one of the 2 connectors in the bay to use and if you have a downpipe with screw in sensors you will likely need a new sensor.
the stock 1 wire type of sensor does work just need to get the type that will fit your downpipe. start there, get that one working, then worry about wiring up a 4 wire o2 sensor later. IF you know how to wire up a 4 sensor wire, then ignore this advice and skip straight to 4 wire.
I include the info for the advanced stuff to be complete, but if wiring a 4 wire sensor sounds like a nightmare, just use the 1 wire, it will just run a bit richer until it warms up, you would never notice without a wideband and its not dangerous or anything.
the stock 1 wire type of sensor does work just need to get the type that will fit your downpipe. start there, get that one working, then worry about wiring up a 4 wire o2 sensor later. IF you know how to wire up a 4 sensor wire, then ignore this advice and skip straight to 4 wire.
I include the info for the advanced stuff to be complete, but if wiring a 4 wire sensor sounds like a nightmare, just use the 1 wire, it will just run a bit richer until it warms up, you would never notice without a wideband and its not dangerous or anything.
08-13-13, 08:50 AM
#1087
did you already install the 4 wire? I had the instructions posted up around here somewhere..
I think one signal goes to stock wire or run to ecu, 2 grounds, and then the 4th goes to the pin on the ecu for the heater.
If you use a 1 wire then you just connect it to the stock 1 wire.
I think one signal goes to stock wire or run to ecu, 2 grounds, and then the 4th goes to the pin on the ecu for the heater.
If you use a 1 wire then you just connect it to the stock 1 wire.
08-13-13, 03:48 PM
#1090
I thought I saw one for sale somewhere recently on here or over there in the classifieds. I think someone just called it a JDM ecu. try some different search combinations. I am still enjoying the mod over here. found out boost cut at this elevation is like 17 ish psi and you have to cross that for a few seconds and then it will cut me off. need to turn it down to 16 I guess until I get a bcc, also still worried about my w58 and my crazy clutch I think I finally need a r154 but am too lazy to do it.
on another note the stock tt maf is not that bad of a restriction, I have heard of people making over 550hp with it so I wouldn't stay away from it completely, also I have been toying with the idea of using the newer type of maf from the vvti which can be removed and put in a 4" pipe in front of the turbo and see what happens. for most of us with 4" intakes that would be a decent option especially if the larger maf diameter means we can increase the injector size a little bit in the 600 range with no piggyback. also the egr would work like a turbo egr using the US ecu which can help if you are having trouble with those nox #'s for emissions. you can always use the US ecu with a vpc which is a proven method as well.
on another note the stock tt maf is not that bad of a restriction, I have heard of people making over 550hp with it so I wouldn't stay away from it completely, also I have been toying with the idea of using the newer type of maf from the vvti which can be removed and put in a 4" pipe in front of the turbo and see what happens. for most of us with 4" intakes that would be a decent option especially if the larger maf diameter means we can increase the injector size a little bit in the 600 range with no piggyback. also the egr would work like a turbo egr using the US ecu which can help if you are having trouble with those nox #'s for emissions. you can always use the US ecu with a vpc which is a proven method as well.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 08-13-13 at 03:56 PM.
08-13-13, 06:25 PM
#1091
I see that one for sale but its from a JDM Supra. Would a Supra TT ECU work as well? Are the pins similar as the Aristo Ecu?
As for the USDM ECU, is the wiring the same as the Aristo? Would i have to wire the MAF or it uses the same as the GE setup? That would be awesome if i can use the EGR like the USDM so I wont have to worry about emissions when its time for inspection. I saw a member here using the USDM ECU but he didnt get it running and never heard from him again.
As for the USDM ECU, is the wiring the same as the Aristo? Would i have to wire the MAF or it uses the same as the GE setup? That would be awesome if i can use the EGR like the USDM so I wont have to worry about emissions when its time for inspection. I saw a member here using the USDM ECU but he didnt get it running and never heard from him again.
Last edited by 6SOARER; 08-13-13 at 06:34 PM.
08-13-13, 09:20 PM
#1092
I see that one for sale but its from a JDM Supra. Would a Supra TT ECU work as well? Are the pins similar as the Aristo Ecu?
As for the USDM ECU, is the wiring the same as the Aristo? Would i have to wire the MAF or it uses the same as the GE setup? That would be awesome if i can use the EGR like the USDM so I wont have to worry about emissions when its time for inspection. I saw a member here using the USDM ECU but he didnt get it running and never heard from him again.
As for the USDM ECU, is the wiring the same as the Aristo? Would i have to wire the MAF or it uses the same as the GE setup? That would be awesome if i can use the EGR like the USDM so I wont have to worry about emissions when its time for inspection. I saw a member here using the USDM ECU but he didnt get it running and never heard from him again.
USDM ECU requires the MAF (& a dummy MAP sensor). Because of this I would avoid this route.
08-14-13, 08:08 AM
#1094
yeah you can use the jdm supra ecu all the connectors are the same. only difference may be the a/c thing I am not sure anyone has used a jdm supra one yet but its basically the same ecu as an aristo if it is auto.
USDM ecu you have to wire in the maf and the map sensor if you are odb1, because our cars use a different maf and while most of the wires are there the hotwire maf the tt uses also has a 12v (B-R) instead of the 5V Vc (L-R), so you have to run an extra wire from a 12v switched source in the engine bay or from the ecu for the new maf, move the pins to the right spots and maybe change the connector I am not sure if they are the same or not, they do have the same number or wires (if you are odb2 though 96 or 97 you are already wired up for a hotwire maf), and of course run new wires for the map sensor. Its still not that complicated really, you just run the extra wire for the maf, and a few for the map sensor, change the connector on the maf and it should work just fine.
not as simple as reusing the maf wires and wiring up your map and IAT, but you will be running wires for the ignitor anyways, so whats running 5 or 6 wires instead of 2 wires, an extra 15-20 minutes?
advantage is you get to use 550's out of the box, and all your emissions will work.
The Acis valve still haven't figured that one out yet but in time I will probably sort this out also, for now I have found connecting it to the intake works well enough or cap it to not worry about it.
you can compare this picture for the usdm gte ecu showing a gte maf and map sensor to the one on the first page which shows just a sc300 maf that the maps sensor wiring was added too. you will notice the maf's are wired differently and the gte has the B-R wire as a 12v instead of the Vc (L-R) which is 5v for the older type of maf and all map sensors.
USDM ecu you have to wire in the maf and the map sensor if you are odb1, because our cars use a different maf and while most of the wires are there the hotwire maf the tt uses also has a 12v (B-R) instead of the 5V Vc (L-R), so you have to run an extra wire from a 12v switched source in the engine bay or from the ecu for the new maf, move the pins to the right spots and maybe change the connector I am not sure if they are the same or not, they do have the same number or wires (if you are odb2 though 96 or 97 you are already wired up for a hotwire maf), and of course run new wires for the map sensor. Its still not that complicated really, you just run the extra wire for the maf, and a few for the map sensor, change the connector on the maf and it should work just fine.
not as simple as reusing the maf wires and wiring up your map and IAT, but you will be running wires for the ignitor anyways, so whats running 5 or 6 wires instead of 2 wires, an extra 15-20 minutes?
advantage is you get to use 550's out of the box, and all your emissions will work.
The Acis valve still haven't figured that one out yet but in time I will probably sort this out also, for now I have found connecting it to the intake works well enough or cap it to not worry about it.
you can compare this picture for the usdm gte ecu showing a gte maf and map sensor to the one on the first page which shows just a sc300 maf that the maps sensor wiring was added too. you will notice the maf's are wired differently and the gte has the B-R wire as a 12v instead of the Vc (L-R) which is 5v for the older type of maf and all map sensors.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 08-14-13 at 08:20 AM.
08-17-13, 08:06 PM
#1095
Found a quick way to bypass the Acis vsv and connect the actuator straight to the intake without having to remove the Y pipe and throttle body.
I am not sure if the aristo ecu is controlling it right on the pin its normally on, so for now I am going to do this as it feels like it works better. your results may vary.
on the back of the intake near the brake booster, you disconnect the 2 stock vacuum hoses which are shown hanging out on the left side of the picture, and then use a new piece of vacuum hose to connect the 2 metal lines that the stock hoses were connected to. this bypasses the vacuum canister and the vsv and connects the ACIS actuator directly to the intake manifold so you get long runners when in vacuum, and you get short runners in boost. about the only thing that doesn't work like factory this way is you get long runners in cruise and low throttle conditions instead of the factory short runner, but it doesn't seem to be that important the car actually feels faster this way.
I am not sure if the aristo ecu is controlling it right on the pin its normally on, so for now I am going to do this as it feels like it works better. your results may vary.
on the back of the intake near the brake booster, you disconnect the 2 stock vacuum hoses which are shown hanging out on the left side of the picture, and then use a new piece of vacuum hose to connect the 2 metal lines that the stock hoses were connected to. this bypasses the vacuum canister and the vsv and connects the ACIS actuator directly to the intake manifold so you get long runners when in vacuum, and you get short runners in boost. about the only thing that doesn't work like factory this way is you get long runners in cruise and low throttle conditions instead of the factory short runner, but it doesn't seem to be that important the car actually feels faster this way.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 08-17-13 at 08:13 PM.