2JZGE Na-T TT Ecu Mod
02-10-14, 10:58 AM
#1396
Actually you don't have to switch the pins at the tps when using the stock throttle body the n/a tps is wired to the right spots on the ecu connector already, only have to rewire on the n/a harness if you use a gte throttle body setup.
maybe the 500's are still running rich at 5-8 psi. what size is your turbo again?
I know I run pretty rich in transition into boost with the 440's even, but it still pulls smoothly.
hows your boost controller connected, that could have something to do with it if its plumbed wrong.
could also be if your Acis is hooked up wrong, the butterfly in the intake, you should disconnect it or bypass it like I showed on the first page or else the output on the gte ecu is for the turbo wastegate and will tell the canister to try and open the butterfly somewhere in the middle of boost, and could be what you are feeling.
maybe the 500's are still running rich at 5-8 psi. what size is your turbo again?
I know I run pretty rich in transition into boost with the 440's even, but it still pulls smoothly.
hows your boost controller connected, that could have something to do with it if its plumbed wrong.
could also be if your Acis is hooked up wrong, the butterfly in the intake, you should disconnect it or bypass it like I showed on the first page or else the output on the gte ecu is for the turbo wastegate and will tell the canister to try and open the butterfly somewhere in the middle of boost, and could be what you are feeling.
I will try to move the vacuum lines like you described on page one. and Im running a precision 61mm.
02-11-14, 03:00 PM
#1398
so myLEXsc400 and 6SOARER are still having issues with the swap.
is anyone else having problems with the mod?
disconnect the connector for your ACIS vsv its right next to the canister under the intake of just bypass like shown in the post.
is anyone else having problems with the mod?
disconnect the connector for your ACIS vsv its right next to the canister under the intake of just bypass like shown in the post.
02-11-14, 05:11 PM
#1399
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Sorry haven't been on in a while got a new job with Toyota been super busy I did check the wiring for a 96 maf with my Toyota manual and it's the same as the one my buddy sent me before about where the maf wiring was compared to the tt ecu, if there is more you want me to look into let me know, I still haven't started my wiring yet my motor isn't finished but it's good to see it will pass obd testing
02-12-14, 09:43 AM
#1403
yeah so on a 96 leave the ground it in the spot for the 96 harness initially. If that isn't working then I would either swap the pin over to the gte/97 spot, and if that doesn't work I would try leaving it in the 96 spot and jumping a wire to the gte/97 spot. one of those has to work really or you can just ground that maf wire in the engine bay on the chassis since its a 12v hotwire maf it should just be a normal ground.
I would guess that switching your pin 30 think it is over to the gte spot 28 is what is going to work.
only the 5v karman maf's 92-95 have a special sensor ground on the ecu that is used for all 5v stuff ilke tps, map sensors, etc...
that is why the map sensor and the hotwire maf have different grounds.
I would guess that switching your pin 30 think it is over to the gte spot 28 is what is going to work.
only the 5v karman maf's 92-95 have a special sensor ground on the ecu that is used for all 5v stuff ilke tps, map sensors, etc...
that is why the map sensor and the hotwire maf have different grounds.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 02-12-14 at 09:50 AM.
02-14-14, 09:34 AM
#1404
I disconnected the VSV and it didn't do much, it actually felt a little sluggish. then I routed to vacuum lines and it felt a little better at lower rpms. But, my problem is still there.
I am getting frustrated with this. The problem only occurs when it is fully warmed up, in closed loop. I am eliminating, boost leak, vacuum lines. Other things I need to try are ignition and fuel.
I want to get your thoughts to see what I can try next. Either new VVti coilpacks or 440 fuel injectors, both are kinda pricey so I would like to get it right the first time or Id be purchasing new parts replacing old parts that work. blaah
When it is in open loop, the car runs rich. The thing pulls hard without any surges. I think my injectors are OK because if it was running really rich at open loop, the car boosts fine. In closed loop the car shouldn't run as rich as in open loop but I hit that wall
next thing I can think of is ignition, what do you guys think? new coilpacks?
Last edited by 6SOARER; 02-14-14 at 10:31 AM.
02-14-14, 11:46 AM
#1405
maybe there is an issue with the 02 sensor I really can't think of why you would need new coils you would drop 2 cylinders and it should be obvious. I don;t think you need the 440 fuel injectors if its not surging in open loop then that means the fuel from the 500's is not overwhelming it at all so in closed loop if anything it should be better not worse.
how did you wire the o2 sensor? is it a single wire or 4 wire?
if you could get a start up video where I can see the wideband and then when it goes into closed loop that would help alot.
I am leaning more towards a closed loop problem, like the o2 sensor or even a bad ecu, the aristo ecu;s are just as likely to go bad as the US ones, you can never tell till you open it up and closed loop fueling problems are def a possible symptom.
the code 34 is also concerning, that could be a failure of the internal pressure sensor on the ecu board, normally the external one throws a different code on our cars but it could have something to do with that one as well. the internal one cannot be repaired, I would try resetting the ecu and see if it still comes up as a temporary code on the first run or if it goes away for a while.
how did you wire the o2 sensor? is it a single wire or 4 wire?
if you could get a start up video where I can see the wideband and then when it goes into closed loop that would help alot.
I am leaning more towards a closed loop problem, like the o2 sensor or even a bad ecu, the aristo ecu;s are just as likely to go bad as the US ones, you can never tell till you open it up and closed loop fueling problems are def a possible symptom.
the code 34 is also concerning, that could be a failure of the internal pressure sensor on the ecu board, normally the external one throws a different code on our cars but it could have something to do with that one as well. the internal one cannot be repaired, I would try resetting the ecu and see if it still comes up as a temporary code on the first run or if it goes away for a while.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 02-14-14 at 11:49 AM.
02-14-14, 12:21 PM
#1406
maybe there is an issue with the 02 sensor I really can't think of why you would need new coils you would drop 2 cylinders and it should be obvious. I don;t think you need the 440 fuel injectors if its not surging in open loop then that means the fuel from the 500's is not overwhelming it at all so in closed loop if anything it should be better not worse.
how did you wire the o2 sensor? is it a single wire or 4 wire?
if you could get a start up video where I can see the wideband and then when it goes into closed loop that would help alot.
I am leaning more towards a closed loop problem, like the o2 sensor or even a bad ecu, the aristo ecu;s are just as likely to go bad as the US ones, you can never tell till you open it up and closed loop fueling problems are def a possible symptom.
the code 34 is also concerning, that could be a failure of the internal pressure sensor on the ecu board, normally the external one throws a different code on our cars but it could have something to do with that one as well. the internal one cannot be repaired, I would try resetting the ecu and see if it still comes up as a temporary code on the first run or if it goes away for a while.
how did you wire the o2 sensor? is it a single wire or 4 wire?
if you could get a start up video where I can see the wideband and then when it goes into closed loop that would help alot.
I am leaning more towards a closed loop problem, like the o2 sensor or even a bad ecu, the aristo ecu;s are just as likely to go bad as the US ones, you can never tell till you open it up and closed loop fueling problems are def a possible symptom.
the code 34 is also concerning, that could be a failure of the internal pressure sensor on the ecu board, normally the external one throws a different code on our cars but it could have something to do with that one as well. the internal one cannot be repaired, I would try resetting the ecu and see if it still comes up as a temporary code on the first run or if it goes away for a while.
Did I have to move any pins around or ground anything on the ECU plug for the O2 sensor? I have 2 hooked up, I remember buying a single wire O2, just to cover up a bung on the downpipe.
Last edited by 6SOARER; 02-14-14 at 12:34 PM.
02-14-14, 05:45 PM
#1407
well you have to use the right o2 sensor as the aristo ecu uses just 1 on pin B48 on the ecu plug, but if you have both o2's in the downpipe and connected then one of them should be going to the right pin, the online guide says b48 is the o2 thats is normally for the front 3 cylinders but I am not positive on that.
how did you put both o2's on your downpipe, aren't they the flange kind or do you have the screw in type stock?
most downpipes don't have 2 flange spots but they will have several of the screw in type spots, let us know, this could be related to the problem and a simple fix.
you may want to get 1 new o2 and run that depending on how old your current ones are, if they are the stock ones you could probably use a new sensor. you can get the universal denso type 1 wire type and keep it simple, and it may run better if your current o2 is tired. the part number for the 4 wire screw in type is 234-4209, not sure what the part number for the 1 wire screw in type is.
how did you put both o2's on your downpipe, aren't they the flange kind or do you have the screw in type stock?
most downpipes don't have 2 flange spots but they will have several of the screw in type spots, let us know, this could be related to the problem and a simple fix.
you may want to get 1 new o2 and run that depending on how old your current ones are, if they are the stock ones you could probably use a new sensor. you can get the universal denso type 1 wire type and keep it simple, and it may run better if your current o2 is tired. the part number for the 4 wire screw in type is 234-4209, not sure what the part number for the 1 wire screw in type is.
02-15-14, 08:25 AM
#1408
well you have to use the right o2 sensor as the aristo ecu uses just 1 on pin B48 on the ecu plug, but if you have both o2's in the downpipe and connected then one of them should be going to the right pin, the online guide says b48 is the o2 thats is normally for the front 3 cylinders but I am not positive on that.
how did you put both o2's on your downpipe, aren't they the flange kind or do you have the screw in type stock?
most downpipes don't have 2 flange spots but they will have several of the screw in type spots, let us know, this could be related to the problem and a simple fix.
you may want to get 1 new o2 and run that depending on how old your current ones are, if they are the stock ones you could probably use a new sensor. you can get the universal denso type 1 wire type and keep it simple, and it may run better if your current o2 is tired. the part number for the 4 wire screw in type is 234-4209, not sure what the part number for the 1 wire screw in type is.
how did you put both o2's on your downpipe, aren't they the flange kind or do you have the screw in type stock?
most downpipes don't have 2 flange spots but they will have several of the screw in type spots, let us know, this could be related to the problem and a simple fix.
you may want to get 1 new o2 and run that depending on how old your current ones are, if they are the stock ones you could probably use a new sensor. you can get the universal denso type 1 wire type and keep it simple, and it may run better if your current o2 is tired. the part number for the 4 wire screw in type is 234-4209, not sure what the part number for the 1 wire screw in type is.
My mistake, I am using one old factory O2 and the other is a new one wire Denso. My downpipe has 3 bungs, I had to buy the new O2 sensor to plug one of the bungs up, I decided to wire it up and ran it to one of the old O2 sensor plugs so I do not know which one is actually working. The 3rd bung is used for my wideband.
I will try switching the O2s around to see if it helps. You mentioned a 4 wire O2-heated sensor. How would I wire that up? are there 2 grounds on the 4 wire O2?
02-15-14, 11:03 AM
#1409
try wiring up the new one to the right spot, if you aren't seeing around 14.8 at idle in closed loop then something is wrong with the o2 sensor and could be throwing off the ecu as the ecu relies heavily on the sensor in closed loop. also I think the wires are shielded on the original o2's so don't let the signal wire inside touch the shielding wrapped on the outside or else the readings will be all wrong as the shielding from the ecu side is grounded.
I made that mistake because one time I wasn't using the extra o2 sensor connector with the AEM so I just cut the single wire off with a wire cutter, and I didn't realize when I did that where it was cut the shielding was touching the inside wire, so it was actually messing with the o2 readings on that line and also other sensor's like the map sensor were a bit erratic also.
4 wire is easy. 1 signal wire is already there.
For the heater, one wire gets +12v switched black/red wire in engine bay or at ecu, the other wire goes to the ecu for the heater pin B71, so the ecu can decide when to turn on and off the heater.
4th wire is just a regular ground If I remember right.
the single wire will get the job done though cause the ecu sort of remembers the trims and the turbo heats up the sensor pretty quick I have used both and both will work. I would say get the new one you have working for now, and then worry about the 4 wire heated type. You can also get a M18x1.5 plug at the hardware or auto store its a metal exhaust plug and that will fit right into the extra o2 sensor bungs on the downpipe.
I made that mistake because one time I wasn't using the extra o2 sensor connector with the AEM so I just cut the single wire off with a wire cutter, and I didn't realize when I did that where it was cut the shielding was touching the inside wire, so it was actually messing with the o2 readings on that line and also other sensor's like the map sensor were a bit erratic also.
4 wire is easy. 1 signal wire is already there.
For the heater, one wire gets +12v switched black/red wire in engine bay or at ecu, the other wire goes to the ecu for the heater pin B71, so the ecu can decide when to turn on and off the heater.
4th wire is just a regular ground If I remember right.
the single wire will get the job done though cause the ecu sort of remembers the trims and the turbo heats up the sensor pretty quick I have used both and both will work. I would say get the new one you have working for now, and then worry about the 4 wire heated type. You can also get a M18x1.5 plug at the hardware or auto store its a metal exhaust plug and that will fit right into the extra o2 sensor bungs on the downpipe.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 02-15-14 at 11:09 AM.
02-17-14, 10:33 AM
#1410
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When it is in open loop, the car runs rich. The thing pulls hard without any surges. I think my injectors are OK because if it was running really rich at open loop, the car boosts fine. In closed loop the car shouldn't run as rich as in open loop but I hit that wall
next thing I can think of is ignition, what do you guys think? new coilpacks?