2JZGE Na-T TT Ecu Mod
06-28-12, 12:29 PM
#106
I don't think that extra ground wire has much to do with it but we can give that a try.
the dizzy does not need to be touched at all, the fact that you are idling is showing that some stuff is working.
if you move the dizzy you will probably need a timing light to verify that its right, I always recommend checking it so its safe after ecu swap.
first though what ecu are you using? I just realized you have a map sensor, so if you are using a JDM ecu then you need 440cc injectors, not 550's. with the 330's you were underfueling, now you would be overfueling with a jdm ecu.
If you let it run/drive it for long enough with the o2 sensor in place and working, it should learn to pull some of that extra fuel back, but probably not all of it so you will run rich most of the time. either that or you can get an safc if you want to keep the 550's, that should take care of the issue.
the dizzy does not need to be touched at all, the fact that you are idling is showing that some stuff is working.
if you move the dizzy you will probably need a timing light to verify that its right, I always recommend checking it so its safe after ecu swap.
first though what ecu are you using? I just realized you have a map sensor, so if you are using a JDM ecu then you need 440cc injectors, not 550's. with the 330's you were underfueling, now you would be overfueling with a jdm ecu.
If you let it run/drive it for long enough with the o2 sensor in place and working, it should learn to pull some of that extra fuel back, but probably not all of it so you will run rich most of the time. either that or you can get an safc if you want to keep the 550's, that should take care of the issue.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 06-28-12 at 12:34 PM.
06-28-12, 04:33 PM
#107
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Yes i am using a JDM ecu and i figured as much about running rich but when i reversed and installed my ge M/T ecu it seemed to be ok i could tell its running rich but it seems to idle and rev pretty well with the 550's with the gte ecu its still the same rev problem as it was with the 330's it kind of hesitates before it actually begins to rev "I WILL NOT BE DEFEATED" lol i know the damn thing should work because youre running it i bet its something so small and tedious if im bald by the time i get it its a sacrafice im willing to take haha
06-28-12, 05:43 PM
#108
can you take a video? I might be easier to diagnose.
you may want to try adjusting the tps, mine will not idle correctly either when the tps is set past a certain point.
Mark it before moving it that way you can set it back if it doesn't fix the problem.
If you rev through it does the engine sound like its running right though? or does it never smooth out?
for the ground mine didnt have a pin at all in the spot for ecu pin #4 which the gte pinout shows as E11 ECM GROUND
http://www.floridasupras.com/wiring-...cu-pinout.html
So I added a pin to that spot, and spliced that into the wire coming out of pin #69 E1 ECU GROUND
Im not sure if this affected anything as I did this early on in my troubleshooting, and it wasnt until later I changed the map sensor to the stock unit did it fire right up, and i left it spliced never bothered undoing it.
Keep it up sounds like you are very close.
also try and find a timing light it could be as simple as needing to set the timing with a light.
if you are too advanced you will have idle and part throttle issues.
I had mine idling around 12-14 degrees without the pins jumpered.
Or you can follow the procedure for jumping the pins on the dignostic terminal, and set it to like 10 degrees i think.
you may want to try adjusting the tps, mine will not idle correctly either when the tps is set past a certain point.
Mark it before moving it that way you can set it back if it doesn't fix the problem.
If you rev through it does the engine sound like its running right though? or does it never smooth out?
for the ground mine didnt have a pin at all in the spot for ecu pin #4 which the gte pinout shows as E11 ECM GROUND
http://www.floridasupras.com/wiring-...cu-pinout.html
So I added a pin to that spot, and spliced that into the wire coming out of pin #69 E1 ECU GROUND
Im not sure if this affected anything as I did this early on in my troubleshooting, and it wasnt until later I changed the map sensor to the stock unit did it fire right up, and i left it spliced never bothered undoing it.
Keep it up sounds like you are very close.
also try and find a timing light it could be as simple as needing to set the timing with a light.
if you are too advanced you will have idle and part throttle issues.
I had mine idling around 12-14 degrees without the pins jumpered.
Or you can follow the procedure for jumping the pins on the dignostic terminal, and set it to like 10 degrees i think.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 06-28-12 at 05:51 PM.
06-28-12, 06:14 PM
#109
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Yes I will definitely take one tomorrow before and after I try and adjust anything my neighbors would hate me if i did anything right now lol... I will ask a few buddies if they have a light and see what I come up with and Yea I feel that i am very close also I'm gonna send you a pound cake when this is all said and done haha I kid. btw I think my tps is shot anyways but I have a spare off the engine I just installed so I will also put that test to work but it doesn't give me any major problems with my stock setup good thing I'm off because I'm putting on my lab coat I will keep everyone posted thanks for the help Ali!
06-29-12, 11:37 AM
#110
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Hey Ali i got pinouts of both ecu's and the GE doesnt seem to put out G1- or G2- could this be a problem or do they not really matter?
Last edited by SixSense; 06-29-12 at 01:43 PM.
06-29-12, 01:43 PM
#113
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ok might not be the best vids but let me know if you get and idea of whats going on keep in mind i was holding the gas pedal steady in the first vid
Last edited by SixSense; 06-29-12 at 03:35 PM.
07-02-12, 10:31 AM
#114
it sounds like its running good for the most part.
I saw the Check engine light come on while you had the throttle pressed in the first video.
even though it doesn't get lit up permanently, see if you can pull the code and we will know exactly what to fix.
It seems like you do have a low idle, partly because its running so rich with the 550cc injectors, and since it looks like you haven't installed your turbo yet, you have less airflow at idle than a turbo which is also making it effectively richer. you may just want to get some 440cc injectors or a fuel controller to simplify things.
You can try cracking your throttle plate open some with the adjustment screw until you get to a proper idle range (about 800 is close to stock ), but you will need to readjust your TPS after which I would recommend doing anyways as it may help your issue.
first, get your rpm's to where you want them with the idle screw (mark it before hand so you can go back if you choose).
second, mark the tps in case you want to go back, then try moving it all the way in one direction and see how the car responds, if its not good (you may need to move the tps back and restart engine if it stalls) then try the other direction.
From whichever side is better, slowly move it back very little at a time towards the worse side.
You want to set it basically a notch before where it starts to get bad.
blip the throttle and confirm it revs smoothly both up and down. if not make a small adjustment and try again.
Obviously the best way to set it is with the voltmeter, but no one seems to break one out ever but me.
I saw the Check engine light come on while you had the throttle pressed in the first video.
even though it doesn't get lit up permanently, see if you can pull the code and we will know exactly what to fix.
It seems like you do have a low idle, partly because its running so rich with the 550cc injectors, and since it looks like you haven't installed your turbo yet, you have less airflow at idle than a turbo which is also making it effectively richer. you may just want to get some 440cc injectors or a fuel controller to simplify things.
You can try cracking your throttle plate open some with the adjustment screw until you get to a proper idle range (about 800 is close to stock ), but you will need to readjust your TPS after which I would recommend doing anyways as it may help your issue.
first, get your rpm's to where you want them with the idle screw (mark it before hand so you can go back if you choose).
second, mark the tps in case you want to go back, then try moving it all the way in one direction and see how the car responds, if its not good (you may need to move the tps back and restart engine if it stalls) then try the other direction.
From whichever side is better, slowly move it back very little at a time towards the worse side.
You want to set it basically a notch before where it starts to get bad.
blip the throttle and confirm it revs smoothly both up and down. if not make a small adjustment and try again.
Obviously the best way to set it is with the voltmeter, but no one seems to break one out ever but me.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 07-02-12 at 10:38 AM.
07-03-12, 09:04 AM
#115
for the distributor crank and 2 cam grounds, the GE has all 3 sensor grounds going to one ground wire, which is G- on the GE ecu pinout.
The GTE has 3 separate grounds for the cranks and 2 cam sensors.
What I had done is jump G- to the other 2 spots on the GTE pinout for the cam sensor grounds.
I think I still have it hooked up like that but Im not positive, you can always give that a try.
It is unlikely the IAT is affecting much if you wired it properly, I am using a universal gm IAt and its working fine. the map sensor is really the most important thing to verify and you has already checked the voltage on that from what I remember.
So you can try this out as well as that extra ecu ground I told you about, but I was kind of thinking it would work without those mods.
but those 2 things are the only extra things I did from the writeup on the first page.
The GTE has 3 separate grounds for the cranks and 2 cam sensors.
What I had done is jump G- to the other 2 spots on the GTE pinout for the cam sensor grounds.
I think I still have it hooked up like that but Im not positive, you can always give that a try.
It is unlikely the IAT is affecting much if you wired it properly, I am using a universal gm IAt and its working fine. the map sensor is really the most important thing to verify and you has already checked the voltage on that from what I remember.
So you can try this out as well as that extra ecu ground I told you about, but I was kind of thinking it would work without those mods.
but those 2 things are the only extra things I did from the writeup on the first page.
07-07-12, 01:50 PM
#116
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Its sooooo weird that i was just thinking this lol about the G- and was about to ask you that i really think that is the problem i will test this out asap and as for the extra ground it was already there on my car weird your didnt have one (Thanks Toyota) I will post up the results soon
07-13-12, 05:07 PM
#118
hey guys, just got my kyosan fuel pump in and gonna get on this project tommorow. Just cant decide what should be done first? I figure i should install the ECU first and make sure it runs with that and then install the kit any opinions?
edit: oh yeah this is gonna be tried with an automatic too wish me luck
also i see over on supra forums a guy mentions having to use the tt igniter or something, was that so for you ali? or was his old one probably ready to go anyways
edit: oh yeah this is gonna be tried with an automatic too wish me luck
also i see over on supra forums a guy mentions having to use the tt igniter or something, was that so for you ali? or was his old one probably ready to go anyways
Last edited by sj408; 07-13-12 at 05:43 PM.
07-14-12, 08:36 AM
#119
you can use any of the 3 ignitors you want, but you have to use the matching coil.
so if you use the stock ignitor, you need to use the 1 stock coil and the distributor to deal out the spark (completely stock setup).
if you use a vvti ignitor, you need 3 vvti coilpacks each coil fires 2 cylinders.
if you use a TT ignitor, you need 6 tt coilpacks, each tt coil fires its own cylinder, but they are not as reliable as vvti, and they do not fit under the N/A intake manifold without mods which is something alot of people don't realize until they go to do it.
And just so everyone knows, IF YOU HAVE THE STOCK INTAKE MANIFOLD DO NOT CHOOSE TT COILS.
use the vvti coils that are designed to fit under the stock intake like on an is300.
I ran the TT temporarily because I have a FFIM and I wanted to test it out.
I run Is300 coils now with NGK wires even though I have a FFIM, and these coils really do perform.
never had to gap my plugs down with these coils I just drop in the new plugs with stock tt gap and ready to go.
so if you use the stock ignitor, you need to use the 1 stock coil and the distributor to deal out the spark (completely stock setup).
if you use a vvti ignitor, you need 3 vvti coilpacks each coil fires 2 cylinders.
if you use a TT ignitor, you need 6 tt coilpacks, each tt coil fires its own cylinder, but they are not as reliable as vvti, and they do not fit under the N/A intake manifold without mods which is something alot of people don't realize until they go to do it.
And just so everyone knows, IF YOU HAVE THE STOCK INTAKE MANIFOLD DO NOT CHOOSE TT COILS.
use the vvti coils that are designed to fit under the stock intake like on an is300.
I ran the TT temporarily because I have a FFIM and I wanted to test it out.
I run Is300 coils now with NGK wires even though I have a FFIM, and these coils really do perform.
never had to gap my plugs down with these coils I just drop in the new plugs with stock tt gap and ready to go.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 07-14-12 at 08:43 AM.