2JZGE Na-T TT Ecu Mod
06-06-12, 11:13 PM
#91
yes it was 14 on the TT hg, I can turn it up more but I'm not ready to break the trans by accident.
I have the ACT extreme pressure plate and 6 puck sprung clutch disk. I wish I had gotten the heavy duty PP and a full face street disk.
Its is a very stiff clutch/pp combo almost on/of engagent, and while it can hold lots of power, it is not a comfortable setup at all.
at 500hp the w58 wont last very long. I would suggest getting something that will get you by on the w58 and plan on going to something bigger later on.
I have the ACT extreme pressure plate and 6 puck sprung clutch disk. I wish I had gotten the heavy duty PP and a full face street disk.
Its is a very stiff clutch/pp combo almost on/of engagent, and while it can hold lots of power, it is not a comfortable setup at all.
at 500hp the w58 wont last very long. I would suggest getting something that will get you by on the w58 and plan on going to something bigger later on.
06-06-12, 11:53 PM
#92
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Yea I live in Atlanta so with this traffic a streetable clutch is a must lol what would be a good clutch "to get me by"?... As far as the trans goes yes ive already planned on upgrading it im basically boosting in stages as im really not comfortable enough to even want to drive a 500whp car lol my brother had a EG hatch with 330whp and i was a high school kid driving that thing it was scary fast even tho the car was much lighter than ours 500whp in our paperweights will still be faster than that im sure so just hangin around the 330-350whp mark for now is good for me to learn the power
06-06-12, 11:55 PM
#93
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BTW my map sensor should be in this week or next week so i will be starting my TT ecu swap where should i run the vacuum for the map and did you buy a oem connector for your map or just made it work sumhow
06-07-12, 10:31 AM
#94
you can gat an oem clip and just find some wires for it off another harness (buying the wires and pins from toyota is crazy expensive over time). I have a spare gs300 harness I keep around and pull connectors and wires off of, saved me so many times with all my experimentation having backup connectors of everything.
Run the vacuum line directly to the intake manifold, do not T into it at all.
Run the vacuum line directly to the intake manifold, do not T into it at all.
06-07-12, 07:41 PM
#95
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Yea the engine im buying has the harness attched it cut at the firewill but all the plugs are still connected so maybe one will fit... Ok gotcha I deleted my power steering idle valve so i have two nice vacuum ports waiting lol... Would hooking the narrowband signal up from a wideband serve as a good alternative to having stock o2's hooked up?
06-08-12, 09:33 PM
#96
Well I tried that with my aem wideband, and it didn't work right. from what I understand you need a stock o2 sensor, but its easy its already there just use that one.
I never bothered even installing my heated o2 sensor. after about 5-6 drive in the car its holding the air fuel pretty much perfect, and im not getting any codes for not having it hooked up. I did connect an extra ground wire at the ecu, if anyone wants I can look up what that was but I'm not sure if that did anything.
I never bothered even installing my heated o2 sensor. after about 5-6 drive in the car its holding the air fuel pretty much perfect, and im not getting any codes for not having it hooked up. I did connect an extra ground wire at the ecu, if anyone wants I can look up what that was but I'm not sure if that did anything.
06-15-12, 06:04 PM
#97
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Hey Ali got my map sensor in today and there is a connector on the engine i bought that fits but im not sure what wire coming from the map goes where i see you have the wire from the map in the diagram running to a specific place but without the oem plug im not sure which is which???? Any help will be appreciated.
06-15-12, 10:52 PM
#98
from back of connector with tab up, it is: (+5v - lavender/red ) (signal - green/black) (ground - brown)
I think in your pic the tab is facing down so the pins on the map sensor would be ground on left, signal in middle, and right side is+5v.
I can take a look at mine tomorrow to be sure
I think in your pic the tab is facing down so the pins on the map sensor would be ground on left, signal in middle, and right side is+5v.
I can take a look at mine tomorrow to be sure
Last edited by Ali SC3; 06-15-12 at 10:55 PM.
06-16-12, 09:16 AM
#99
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Thanks do you know what order they would connect on the old maf connector wires? The diagrams only show four wires but there are five.
Last edited by SixSense; 06-16-12 at 09:31 AM.
06-17-12, 11:03 AM
#101
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Good news got her up and running she has pretty smooth idle but when i rev it stutters around 2500 rpm and if i try and drive it it sputters around 1500 rpm but everybody might think im dumb for this but it was just a test for anybody wanting to know if stock injectors would work (maybe only me) so i left the stock 330's installed this may be my problem!?!? Any words Ali?? im hoping i didnt get a bad MAP sensor. **** I will be installing my 550's now to test this theory.
06-17-12, 07:39 PM
#102
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I searched and checked the voltage for the map sensor and it seems to check out its showing 2.65v with engine not running and switch on so jus clarify if the injectors would be the main cause of the sputtering.
06-18-12, 10:17 AM
#103
yes, map sounds OK. you are running very lean, 330's are 40% less fuel than 550's deliver.
I would be surprised if it ran correctly with 40% less fueling than it requires.
drop in the 550's. if you are still having issues with rev up, try adjusting the tps.
I would be surprised if it ran correctly with 40% less fueling than it requires.
drop in the 550's. if you are still having issues with rev up, try adjusting the tps.
06-27-12, 08:59 PM
#104
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Ok installed the 550's has a choppy idle and it surges dunno what this could be may be some vacuum lines any suggestion Ali? It will settle down and idle very low like around 200-500 rpm