Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Yeah I know exactly what you mean. I read lots of people do the 550's on JDM ecu but I have no first hand experience with them to know how much it hurts drive-ability, thats why i chose to start with the 440's to get a feel for the stock tune.
I would think the 550's would drive pretty well still as its not a large adjustment.
added benefits are you can run 500hp safely and you get increased boost cut, because you will be reducing the map signal some across the board some.
I really like how the tune for the stock turbos feels on my single. It keeps it lean until you hit a few lbs of boost and then it swings rich right when you need it. Maybe its because I have a smaller turbo mine is a 61 and its running harder than it used to on the aem.
I suspect the GTE uses alot of advance in vacuum due to the lower Compression Ratio, and it makes my slightly higher compression na-t feel pretty strong in the lower rev ranges compared to before.
You already have a map based ecu which is desireable, you may want to look into using the aem fi/c.

here is the link for the a/c fix See post #29.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...problem-2.html

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

I get alot of PM's asking good questions about using the TT ecu.
I am going to start quoting those in here for others to see, and if you can just post up your future questions here others can benefit as well from the answer.


Yes you can run it fine without any boost and then you will be ready for when you turbo.

to run the gte ecu is the same if you are boosted or not, you will need a JDM ecu like from an aristo or supra. if you are automatic, then get an automatic one. If you are manual, you can get either but the manual ecu has a little better rev limit and such, and is generally more expensive.

You need a 2jzgte map sensor, a 2jz or gm IAT, and 440cc injectors (high impedance or you also need a resistor pack).

If you want to run the stock 2jzge ignition system with the full distributor, then thats all the major parts you need right there.

If you want to run coilpacks, you can choose to run 2jz vvti or 2jzgte coilpacks with the matching ignitor. this involves running 3-5 more wires from the ecu to the ignitor (depending on coils you choose), and wire up the coils to the ignitor which is another 4-7 wires. If you are lucky enough to have a spare gte harness, you can just take these wires out of that harness and stick it in yours (extend if harness is jdm).

the wiring schematics are in post 1
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...-odb1-sc3.html

You do not need to change the headgasket out to run this ecu. thats more of a how much boost are you running and type of fuel question to me.
Those will weigh heavily on whether you need to touch the headgasket.
NA-T using a gte ecu has the benefit of being able to adjust the base timing if the gte ignition maps are giving you issues (too advanced).
I doubt the need to even do that, my engine is running great in vac on pump gas, but I do have a TT headgasket installed.

SixSense

Hi im in the process of goin Na-T and goin to do the GTE ecu mod i wanted to know if the 1jz map sensor would work been doing a lot of searching and the word is they are both the same is there any truth to this???

99SC42

iTrader: (44)

Yes both the same.

SixSense

Thanks man!

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Quicksc4 once again is right, the map sensors have the same output. some poeple say they are different but I don't think they are.

The 1jz/2jz Gte ecu's are good at adapting to slightly larger injectors (i mean slightly).
so when 1jz users upgraded injectors the common thing is to "upgrade to a 2jz map sensor".
They were really just wasting time with the map sensor, they are the same output.
what ends up happening is the ecu figures out its running rich after a few drives and will learn to pull fuel, but it can only pull so much, so if you upgrade more than 100cc it probably will just always run rich on the stock map sensor with no piggyback.

In short, any 1jz/2jz map sensor should get the job done.

SixSense

Thanks to Ali and QuickSc4 once again i understand you do not have to change hg to TT hg as u posted earlier but by running the TT ECU does this in turn allow you to run more boost on stock 10:1 or would we still be stuck to the average boost of about 5-9psi i ask because i dnt want to go and over boost thinking im safe in the cradling arms of the TT ECU haha... BTW i will be running 550cc RC injectors caught a sweet deal on them brand new with brand turbo manifold for $150 AND A $20 JUNKYARD TURBO LOL

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

If you are on pump gas, you would want to be careful running more than 12-14 psi just based on the compression and not on the injectors (550's can support much more boost). larger injectors are necessary and a pump is recommended.
You can use the distributor to take out a little timing as well, which is a nice na-t feature.

The TT ecu will be much safer overall than running a ge ecu. The gte ecu is really predictable every time before and after you boost, ive been watching it on my wideband and its always spot on. I havent even installed the heated o2 sensor, just 1 factory one connected to the ecu, and there is no check engine light at all. I am ridiculously impressed I used to have to carry my laptop and charger around with me to adjust my old ecu, this one just works great just took a little up front wiring.

SixSense

Hope this does not sound dumb but just want to be 100% clear on what you said. Ok what i got from yur last post was that with 440's u should stick to around 12-14psi with 10:1 compression but if running 550's u can run more boost although boost cut is around 14-16 i think right....

SixSense

Also I will be running tial 38mm WG with 14.5psi spring from what I understand it will not truly boost to 14.5psi but should be a few pounds less which is fine and perfect for what I am trying to accomplish I would guestimate it should be around 12ish psi let me know if there is flaw in this statement and thanks in advance for everyones help. P.S. I will be running off wastegate spring safe??

SixSense

I kno I'm slamming you with Q's lol but I just have one last thing I wanna ask how you went about installing yur FFIM throttle cable,vacuum etc...

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Not exactly. With the stock headgasket and compression you should stick to under 12-14 psi on pump gas. this limit has nothing to do with injector size, it has to do with detonation and blowing your headgasket.
Normally on the ge ecu I would say don't go over 9 psi. with a standalone people have pulled of 14 psi reliably.
I think the GTE ecu can run the car just as well with a stock like EFI setup, so I would say up to 14, but realize 14 is at the top of the limit for stock compression, and every setup is different so I am not responsible if you run 14 psi and blow your stuff.

Obviously the stock injectors aren't going to get you to 14 psi safely, so you should look into 440cc injectors at least to meet your fueling requirements. 550's will work good with more fueling overhead/safety, but installing 550cc injectors alone doesn't mean your engine can now handle the extra boost (it really doesnt like high boost on pump gas at 10:1).
If you want to run more than 14 psi of boost consistently and safely, you should change your headgasket and your injectors to support your boost level.

running off the gate is fine, sometimes it does read a few less, it depends where you have the source coming off of but it is still do-able on the stock headgasket, although I would definately start by dialing back the timing at the distributor some, or get a 12 psi spring, or get a tt headgasket.

carefully, very carefully. it took tons of research, searching, planning, and at the last minute macgyvering. cannot be exaplined in one post, but i used a landcruiser throttle cable, and some of the vacuum delete threads found here on this very forum. I basically ripped everything off the top of the engine, installed my intake, and only connected vacuum lines back to the intake that were vital to the engine running.

SixSense

Thanks man that was a good kick in the pants haha im just gonna run my 7lb spring use and manual boost controller set it to 10psi and forget about it im not one to run things on the edge/brink of disaster especially with something like my DD im no fool... Im swapping in a lower milage engine and did not want to touch it as i will be doing a full rebuild on my tired old 230k engine when i remove it from my car so I felt it was a waste to dump money into an engine im gonna take out in the future. Would 10psi put me around 350? anything more than that i dnt think my w58 would like. (factory 5spd sc3)

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

I think that's a better choice to go with the 7lb spring and turn it up to where you want it. 10 psi at that compression should put you in that neighborhood maybe a little less like 330 at the wheels or so really depends on your turbo also.

your w58 stock clutch isn't going to last very long, i think mine started slipping just after a week of boosting.
so plan ahead for a clutch pressure plate combo, or keep the boost at 7 and hope for it holding if you don't plan to upgrade.
I was running 14 psi through my w58 all day long with no issues, but I am careful not to slam the gears in boost.

SixSense

Good to hear and yes I am in the process of choosing a clutch I'm leaning towards the horse power freaks clutch wish I could find something a little better priced but I know what my ending goals are and don't know many clutches that will hold 450-500whp reliably what clutch are you running Ali? And that was 14psi on TT hg right?