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2JZGE Na-T TT Ecu Mod

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Old 10-24-12, 10:09 AM
  #646  
99SC42
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Wow you guys have alot of issues... You really shouldn't have any problem if everything is setup properly!

Go back and recheck everything, if you can get a stock map sensor , to rule out the map issues.

Sj408 what injectors do you have? You should get some bigger injectors atleast some 550cc. don't run more than 10 psi on the stock injectors or you will have to start all over again.

440 will work but you will replaced them for bigger ones in no time lol.

What ar is your 67?
Old 10-24-12, 10:24 AM
  #647  
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Originally Posted by briggs33
I have 550cc injectors. And pretty sure it got fried. I tried using it with the new ecu and it was running odd and the pressure reading off of the safc was stuck in a wrong format which i noticed it had changed to after a while of running it on the bad ecu. I will check it again to make sure as well as check the voltage to to that map
Check it again sometimes when its connected to a bad ecu its the ecu that will cause the line to show the wrong voltage. I really wanted the motorolla to work but it sounds like it doesn't, or 550cc isnt the matching injectors for it.

Originally Posted by sj408
when you talk about taking the base timing back to 8 degrees for others, why is that? outta curiousity cause im running 10 like stock.

I got the pistons for gte, the 8.5:1 pistons so i figure with the n/a headgasket i should be hovering right aorund 9:1 compression

Also in regards to the boost levels, im only boosting 10psi is that still unnacceptable with the 440 injectors? Id really rather not turn it up until i get 5-6k on this engine and i recoop some money from this build

I can pick up a map-ecu for 150 bucks but tuning it around here is 600+ for initial tuning session
its because lower compression motors can handle alot of advance without detonation when idling and in low load areas which helps make up for the loss of power, like a gte will commonly idle at 16+ degrees. Its a little too much for a high compression ge which would prefer to be at 14 degrees or so. My car runs perfect at 8, at 10 it ran fine but had a cold start stumble that would go away when it warmed up but I dont want anything knocking especially when cold.

If you have gte compression, set it to 10. if you have 9:1 compression, set it to 8. If you have stock compression, you probably want it under 8.
Old 10-24-12, 10:46 AM
  #648  
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Originally Posted by Quicksc4
Wow you guys have alot of issues... You really shouldn't have any problem if everything is setup properly!

Go back and recheck everything, if you can get a stock map sensor , to rule out the map issues.

Sj408 what injectors do you have? You should get some bigger injectors atleast some 550cc. don't run more than 10 psi on the stock injectors or you will have to start all over again.

440 will work but you will replaced them for bigger ones in no time lol.

What ar is your 67?

To be truthful im not sure what ar my 67 is, where would i see on an xs power turbo? iirc garrets would have it casted in but not on these ones i think.

440cc injectors for now. Until i can save up for engine management and bigger injectors, i had 525s but they ran like complete dog **** on the aristo ecu.

EDIT: and looks like club na-t just shut down so i dont know where to look for reference
Old 10-24-12, 11:01 AM
  #649  
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Should be on the exhaust housing.

then 8-10 psi it is.

gl
Old 10-24-12, 11:15 AM
  #650  
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Originally Posted by Quicksc4
Should be on the exhaust housing.

then 8-10 psi it is.

gl
on the front it says 92 and on the rear it says like j84.

Yeah 8-10 psi is all i desire to run for now while i break it in. I justed wanted to ensure its safe to do so on this ecu and 440 injectors.
Old 10-24-12, 11:42 AM
  #651  
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440cc will provide enough fuel for 10 psi for most setups. definately a good place to start and work out all the bugs. I ran mine at 9 psi for the longest time it was night and day compared to stock.
Old 10-24-12, 12:04 PM
  #652  
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tried stock map again and yeah it is fried. with the motorolla map the car fires up fine and when cold. it idles at about 1100 then drops down to about 750 for a bit then finally settles at 475 after it is warmed up. when warm it will start about 50% of the time and when it does it barely starts, pretty much just gets lucky when the rpms drop down to around 200 and then climbs up to stay at 475. i can press the gas while it is cold and the car stays on but once it is settled at 475 if i press the gas and let off it drops down too low and will die. timing has been set to 8 degrees now as well
Old 10-24-12, 12:04 PM
  #653  
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Originally Posted by Ali SC3
440cc will provide enough fuel for 10 psi for most setups. definately a good place to start and work out all the bugs. I ran mine at 9 psi for the longest time it was night and day compared to stock.

Ill get my wideband on today and report back with afrs.... where is everyone tapping in the signal and power on their widebands? ali? quick?

Also i get that stumble on cold start too, like its got a vacuum leak but as soon as i tap the gas barely it evens out. I dont drive it cold either always warm up to operating temp before i even put it in gear.

This thing pulls like a freight train, though i havent done anything but some second and third gear pulls its pretty fast. Gotta exercise self control and break in this engine nicely and watch out for tickets.

And again it passed smog!!!


What is everyone doing for turbo elbows and such? ive blown up 3 couplers so far and i believe this heavy duty one is on its way out.
Old 10-24-12, 12:11 PM
  #654  
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weld an elbow on the compressor housing.

I tapped into my cigarette lighter, and ground on the chassis by the ecu.
Old 10-24-12, 12:20 PM
  #655  
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Originally Posted by Quicksc4
weld an elbow on the compressor housing.

I tapped into my cigarette lighter, and ground on the chassis by the ecu.
you tapped into the cig lighter for the signal or the power wire???

EDIT: after more reading i guess the signal is only for logging purposes? so its just power and ground im needing to hook up.

as for the welding im gonna have to try it out, thanks! just wish i could find a solution without removing this damn turbo again but oh well.

Last edited by sj408; 10-24-12 at 12:46 PM.
Old 10-24-12, 12:54 PM
  #656  
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The power wire .
Old 10-24-12, 02:50 PM
  #657  
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Originally Posted by briggs33
tried stock map again and yeah it is fried. with the motorolla map the car fires up fine and when cold. it idles at about 1100 then drops down to about 750 for a bit then finally settles at 475 after it is warmed up. when warm it will start about 50% of the time and when it does it barely starts, pretty much just gets lucky when the rpms drop down to around 200 and then climbs up to stay at 475. i can press the gas while it is cold and the car stays on but once it is settled at 475 if i press the gas and let off it drops down too low and will die. timing has been set to 8 degrees now as well
sounds like its close but the fuel mixture is off. again motorolla map is uncharted territory so don't know what to reccomend, what i tried failed also but I had other issues as well.

Originally Posted by sj408
Ill get my wideband on today and report back with afrs.... where is everyone tapping in the signal and power on their widebands? ali? quick?

Also i get that stumble on cold start too, like its got a vacuum leak but as soon as i tap the gas barely it evens out. I dont drive it cold either always warm up to operating temp before i even put it in gear.

This thing pulls like a freight train, though i havent done anything but some second and third gear pulls its pretty fast. Gotta exercise self control and break in this engine nicely and watch out for tickets.

And again it passed smog!!!


What is everyone doing for turbo elbows and such? ive blown up 3 couplers so far and i believe this heavy duty one is on its way out.
for me it was the timing, yeah the first few times I would press the gas it would stumble, then it would start to rev just fine, and that when I figured the ecu was correcting and checked the timing and it was pretty up there so taking it back a little bit took care of it completely.
glad it passed, My car seems to run perfect I think a good cat and o2 sensor is all you really need on these, I still don't get any CEL's at all.

you can just remove the compressor cover if you want, no need to remove the whole turbo, but getting to the bottom bolts in between may be tricky and worth removing whole thing. I tapped the same cig lighter and ground. signal goes no where unless you have a standalone or data logger.
I have been using a multi-ply elbow and t bolt clamps, havent had that elbow pop off but I tightened it as tight as it could be tightened. I do see some wear after several years but so far so good.
Old 10-24-12, 05:13 PM
  #658  
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anyone know how this center console comes out to tap into the cig lighter? i cant figure it out and ive searched
Old 10-24-12, 08:25 PM
  #659  
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I also just noticed a clicking from the stock fuel pressure regulator. I have a second one that goes before the stock one just because before i though my fpr could be messed up. You can hear the clicking over my exhaust leak and feel it in the fuel rail
Old 10-25-12, 12:56 PM
  #660  
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Im not an expert on fuel pressure regulators, but you should probably just be using one of them, I would choose the one that is not ticking. hopefully its not an injector.


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