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Yes I plan on using the vvti gte ecu on a vvti na-t engine and harness (with added connectors of course). After some research, it looks like I will definitely need a 4 speed.
Yeah its looking that way, honestly I would put any manual in it over an auto and the wiring etc... even the gte's will only hold so much power, and manual is just so much more fun.
Originally Posted by Osbornecox
Ali, I pulled my ffim tonight to confirm that both grounds are good, I tested them both via a test light. Also confirmed that the noise filter has a good power and ground with a test light.
I also checked the B+ going to the igniter and all 3 coils and all of them have power according to a test light.
I also confirmed that the tac wire and ground are wired correctly. I ran a new wire for the ground and grounded it on the shock tower. The tac wire was moved from the old igniter harness to the ds62 pigtail, it is a black wire but isn't grounded out.
Another thing to to note is that I haven't done the tac mod on my cluster but I wouldn't think that would effect anything other then my gauge not working.
But i also believe it is a power or ground issue. I just can't figure it out. I know all 3 coils and igniter have power via the B+. I'm just not sure if it is grounding itself out like it's supposed to to complete the circuit to make it fire. I don't know if there is a way to simulate that or test that.
Tac mod won't affect it just the tacho wont work till you do it. this has me stumped, I don't see a reason why its not working to be honest, something simple must be off.
That's why I like to do these things in stages especially with the FFIM and stuff, difficult to troubleshoot all of that at once.
did you pull the distributor at any point or check timing, i forgot if you mentioned that or not. Actually you can't really check timing without spark so guessing you haven't.
if you did pull the dizzy maybe pull it out again, make sure its all lined up and put it back in and make sure you at the real TDC and not 180 out.
If you didn't pull it then it should be fine enough to start where it was set, itll need small adjustment but should be pretty close to what the n/a ecu was putting out.
It is ultimately possible there could be an issue with the ecu, but not confident enough to say that has to be it but may be worth looking into.
Edit* I want to say the safc wiring taps into the IGF wire at the ecu, so make sure that wire is not damaged where it was spliced. they can be sensitive once tapped into.
IGF signal not returning is the main reason for that code. anytime the coil fires, the ignitor produces a IGF pulse.. so if its firing it might just not be getting back to the ecu.
I want to say you would hear it trying to start or it even start for a second than die out if it was just the wire, kinda sounds like you are just not even getting ignition at all.
Well I had a chance to mess around with the car more this weekend, but still no luck. I have confirmed that I'm only getting spark on cylinder 1&6. I switched all my coils around to that pigtail to confirm all my coils do work. But on both ecus I have only coil 1 is firing. So either they aren't true TT ecus or something else is wrong. Also I did check the distributor again and it is where it is supposed to be. I'm trying to find someone I can send my ecu to and see if it works on there setup. Until then is there anything else I can do?
maybe post up the part numbers on those... its possible you have a JDM n/a ecu. other than that I would have to say the wiring is wrong at the ecu or the ignitor, really there isn't that much to the mod except that part.
I will be using a vvti Aristo ecu on my 2003 vvti na-t gs300 but I am running into issues with the VSV, more specifically pins, VSV1, VSV2, VSV3, PMC, and FPU. How should they be wired into the na-t vacuum system. I know the ACIS can probably be removed since I am using a FFIM, but I am unsure about the VSV components. Any help would be appreciated!
Those vsv's control a bunch of stuff on the gte motor related to the twins that you won't have on a single turbo na-t. you won't be installing those in the system so you wont have to wire them up.
if you get check engine lights you could wire them in and tuck them away somewhere, or something similar to trick the ecu.
if you were running the stock intake you would just connect the acis actuator direct to a vacuum source like on the non vvti version on the first page (one of the steps).
The Gte vsv's wont control it properly, but since you are running an FFIM you wont have to even do that just ignore it.
You probably want to keep the FPU vsv, which is pretty easy to wire but likely it is already on your vvti 2jzge harness already.
This raises the fuel pressure on a hot start to avoid a temporary lean issue that happens with all the older ecu's... its not a deal breaker even if you were to remove it but the stock ecu might be a little unhappy if you removed it on hot starts.
Those vsv's control a bunch of stuff on the gte motor related to the twins that you won't have on a single turbo na-t. you won't be installing those in the system so you wont have to wire them up.
if you get check engine lights you could wire them in and tuck them away somewhere, or something similar to trick the ecu.
if you were running the stock intake you would just connect the acis actuator direct to a vacuum source like on the non vvti version on the first page (one of the steps).
The Gte vsv's wont control it properly, but since you are running an FFIM you wont have to even do that just ignore it.
You probably want to keep the FPU vsv, which is pretty easy to wire but likely it is already on your vvti 2jzge harness already.
This raises the fuel pressure on a hot start to avoid a temporary lean issue that happens with all the older ecu's... its not a deal breaker even if you were to remove it but the stock ecu might be a little unhappy if you removed it on hot starts.
So I can remove the GE vsv stuff as well? I'm assuming that even if I wired them they wouldn't function because vsv1, vsv2, and vsv3 would just be controlling the non existent twins lol.
Ill most like keep the FPU since it's already wired up so it would be more work to remove it. Thanks!
there really isn't much vvti ge vsv stuff, usually ACIS, EVAP, FPU, Heater. you will likely keep the Evap, FPU, and heater vsv's. everything else will likely go. I don't think the vvti's have egr if I remember right. usually the main vsv's like the evap, fpu, heater, etc.. are on the same pins between ecu's but I would double check the diagrams to be sure.
I haven't done a vvti one myself, but have a decent idea of what to do as I have looked into it a couple times before.
Yeah most of those vsv's are for the twins, Im not sure what each one does but there are some for wastegate (PMC i think), then some for boost twin turbo operation ie pre spooling 2nd turbo etc.. I won't pretend to understand what each of them does because the first mod for most people is to rip it all off and throw a single turbo on there
there really isn't much vvti ge vsv stuff, usually ACIS, EVAP, FPU, Heater. you will likely keep the Evap, FPU, and heater vsv's. everything else will likely go. I don't think the vvti's have egr if I remember right. usually the main vsv's like the evap, fpu, heater, etc.. are on the same pins between ecu's but I would double check the diagrams to be sure.
I haven't done a vvti one myself, but have a decent idea of what to do as I have looked into it a couple times before.
Yeah most of those vsv's are for the twins, Im not sure what each one does but there are some for wastegate (PMC i think), then some for boost twin turbo operation ie pre spooling 2nd turbo etc.. I won't pretend to understand what each of them does because the first mod for most people is to rip it all off and throw a single turbo on there
Right now I have EVAP and Heater wired up but I am unable to find FPU on the GE harness. The vvti ge also has PTNK, TPC, and CCV and Im still figuring out what to do about those but I think I will figure it out after I mess with it some more.
After looking throught GE wiring diagrams I am unable to find TH+, TH-, REC, and REC2 but im assuming I wire those straight from the sensor on the lower radiator and from the fans. Also I dont know where the PRE2 pin for the AC and PSP for power steering are located on the GE harness or if I will have to add those.
But for the most part, everything is coming together well, just a few tiny things to figure out
Yeah I don't really know what half of those are lol, those aren't on the non vvti so I am not familiar with them but I would check the pin positions on both diagrams and go from there seeing what matches up, chances are the ones that don't match up you probably won't need as toyota tends to do it that way. Sounds like you are on track though and already doing that so keep up the good work and keep us posted. maybe one day I'll get around to doing a vvti swap.
Yeah I don't really know what half of those are lol, those aren't on the non vvti so I am not familiar with them but I would check the pin positions on both diagrams and go from there seeing what matches up, chances are the ones that don't match up you probably won't need as toyota tends to do it that way. Sounds like you are on track though and already doing that so keep up the good work and keep us posted. maybe one day I'll get around to doing a vvti swap.
One this I have found is that the PPS, proportional power steering, pin is not located on the gte harness so GS300 guys will have to use an Aristo ps pump instead of the ge one. Luckily, the connector and wiring you would remove from the GS300 ps pump will fit the map sensor perfectly. I will update this post in the morning with diagrams to show what I am referring to
I don't think I had posted pics on here after the TTecu mod completion last season, but here ya go. As Great as it worked I will be going full standalone this season to add some more management to the scenario. Thanks again for all the info and I owe you a trophy that I won due to the complexity of engineering with a jdm ecu.
The car is fully driveable as is, drop in and go on 550's. It did initially start very rich but it seemed to lean out fairly quick, 10 miles is nothing. I almost pulled the trigger on some 440's last night but I figured I might as well try the 550's and I'm glad I did. I really did not want to install the Apexi NEO as I didn't want to further complicate things. Looks as if it runs great as is without any fuel controller adjustment.
See that's what is odd because the idle is very smooth, doesn't show issues that the TPS isn't adjusted right. If the TPS adjustment is off shouldn't the idle be all over the place?
Would you recommend trying to set the TPS with a voltimeter to the .65 range? Or just adjusting the TPS by hand and seeing if I can get the Timing to lock at 10deg.
I'll go fool with it a bit.
EDIT:
Went outside, started the car, and took a picture of the current TPS setting, jumper was not working, and it showed base timing was at 12-13 with the distributor locked all the retarded:
Adjusted the TPS to the opposite side:
Plugged in the Jumper for timing and it immediately changed to the "audible" locked 10deg mode. The timing was set at 0! So I loosened the distributor, and bumped timing up to just under 10 deg and set it.
You guys are wizards at the sc300 platform. This ECU must really rely on a good TPS voltage to function.
Once you set it at 10 degrees did you go back and re-adjust your TPS?
I'm having difficulty setting the q45 TPS and wondering if this is the reason for the random stalling. Once I let it sit for about 5 minutes she'll start up again... but to only stall in a few minutes.
It could have something to do with it, is it making the change in sound when you go to adjust the timing? if it is that is the position you want it in, don't adjust it after that.
normally I use the toyota tps adapter... its possible to get the q45 to work but I don't like to mess around with them.
you also might need more idle air if its idling low when warmed up, crack the throttle body open a hair more but you will need to adjust the tps then also.
02-16-17, 03:11 PM
