Originally Posted by super51fan
Yes I plan on using the vvti gte ecu on a vvti na-t engine and harness (with added connectors of course). After some research, it looks like I will definitely need a 4 speed.
Yeah its looking that way, honestly I would put any manual in it over an auto and the wiring etc... even the gte's will only hold so much power, and manual is just so much more fun.
Originally Posted by Osbornecox
Ali, I pulled my ffim tonight to confirm that both grounds are good, I tested them both via a test light. Also confirmed that the noise filter has a good power and ground with a test light.
I also checked the B+ going to the igniter and all 3 coils and all of them have power according to a test light.
I also confirmed that the tac wire and ground are wired correctly. I ran a new wire for the ground and grounded it on the shock tower. The tac wire was moved from the old igniter harness to the ds62 pigtail, it is a black wire but isn't grounded out.
Another thing to to note is that I haven't done the tac mod on my cluster but I wouldn't think that would effect anything other then my gauge not working.
But i also believe it is a power or ground issue. I just can't figure it out. I know all 3 coils and igniter have power via the B+. I'm just not sure if it is grounding itself out like it's supposed to to complete the circuit to make it fire. I don't know if there is a way to simulate that or test that.
Tac mod won't affect it just the tacho wont work till you do it. this has me stumped, I don't see a reason why its not working to be honest, something simple must be off.
That's why I like to do these things in stages especially with the FFIM and stuff, difficult to troubleshoot all of that at once.
did you pull the distributor at any point or check timing, i forgot if you mentioned that or not. Actually you can't really check timing without spark so guessing you haven't.
if you did pull the dizzy maybe pull it out again, make sure its all lined up and put it back in and make sure you at the real TDC and not 180 out.
If you didn't pull it then it should be fine enough to start where it was set, itll need small adjustment but should be pretty close to what the n/a ecu was putting out.
It is ultimately possible there could be an issue with the ecu, but not confident enough to say that has to be it but may be worth looking into.
Edit* I want to say the safc wiring taps into the IGF wire at the ecu, so make sure that wire is not damaged where it was spliced. they can be sensitive once tapped into.
IGF signal not returning is the main reason for that code. anytime the coil fires, the ignitor produces a IGF pulse.. so if its firing it might just not be getting back to the ecu.
I want to say you would hear it trying to start or it even start for a second than die out if it was just the wire, kinda sounds like you are just not even getting ignition at all.