Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Code 31 is for the map sensor, you either have a bad map sensor or the wiring is off.

what do you mean by not getting power to your coils? like how did you test it?
They should have a 12v wire that is hot with ignition on that you have to add, and the other wire is grounded by the ecu to fire them which you also need to add. It is rare for the ignitor to go bad, there was one other person with like 3 bad ignitors in a row but I think it was a car specific issue going on and not the norm. ignitors usually are pretty hardy.

Ecu does not need to be bolted in. let me know what you mean by not getting power to the coils and any other specifics and I can probably point you in the right direction.

Also even with a code 31 for the map sensor, the engine will usually start with the 440cc injectors but will run really rough and rich.
There have been people with bad map sensors before, it does happen they can go bad or be shorted out pretty easily.

Osbornecox

I will double check the wiring on the map sensor, I hope it isn't bad. I have an safc installed so I don't know if that would effect anything.

But with no power to the coils I tested it with a test light with the key on. With the test light touching the B+ 12v wire at all 3 coils there is no power. I also tested the IGF ignition signal coming from the ecu and there was no power there either. Although I used an ohm meter to confirm all the wires are good. Still haven't checked voltage with the ohm meter though.

I have 550cc injectors (came with the car) so hopefully I can get it started after fixing the spark problem.

I also confirmed all of the wires from the distributor to ecu are good as well.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

The IGF is a pulsed signal so I don't think you will pick up a voltage reading on that wire. you should def have full time 12v at the coils with the ignition on, so I am thinking that is your issue.
normally I splice the 12v wire for the coils into the ignitors 12v wire (one could use a relay triggered by the ignitors 12v also to supply a new line from the battery 12v for coils).

either way if you don't have 12v at the coil, its not going to work.

its common to get a 31 with the safc if the wires aren't setup 100% or sometimes its the in/out settings on the safc itself.
you have to make sure to set it up for map sensor, so use the JDM settings not the ones for USDM that you see floating around (USDM settings are for maf).
also confirm that you moved the pin for the map sensor to the right spot on the ecu.
those are probably your 2 issues I would imagine. how did you do the power wire for the coils?
maybe some pics would help. Start by figuring out why the coils aren't getting 12v and go from there.

Osbornecox

Well I got power to my coils. Unfortunately it was a mistake on my part. I simply ran a new wire from pin 2 of the igniter to my coils. I didn't tap into the existing wire from the coil. I spliced the original wire back into the new wire/ pin 2 and now have power at my coils. I didn't confirm I have spark but I tried to start. But still not starting.

After bypassing my my safc to simply not deal with it Right now I got rid of my code 31. But now a new code, 14. This is an igniter signal circuit fault. Any ideas on what could be causing this or how I can diagnose it?

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

make sure you also have a good ground on the ignitor on pin 8. sounds like you corrected the power on pin 2 issue, so with those 2 the ignitor should be getting power.

that code comes up usually when ecu is not getting the igf signal back, so double check your wire positions are good and that the pins are fully seated in the connectors.
if the ecu doesn't see the IGF signal coming back, it will cut off the ignition. its also possible one of the coils is bad so it doesn't ignite and thus not return an IGF.
always a little tough troubleshooting with new/used parts but check them out one by one and see how it goes. the 12v wire should be spliced to all 3 coils.

Osbornecox

Well I have gone through and double checked all my wiring. I'm pretty sure I have everything correct and all the pins are all seated correctly.

I have gone gone through and checked my coils as described in this link:
http://my.prostreetonline.com/2016/0...ignition-coil/

going off of the information that this link shows none of me coils are good. I went ahead and ordered another set. Hopefully they will be here later this week and I can try them.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

I have read/heard of people having issues with these coils before so it could be that. if they aren't firing the ignitor won't return a igf to the ecu so yeah it a possibility.

Osbornecox

Well 3 new coils later and still nothing. I also ran a wire directly from the ecu to the igniter on the igf signal. No luck there either. But I was looking at a 01 is300 electrical diagram and it shows the ground being on pin 3 the tac being in pin 8. Why is it like this on the is300? Is it cause it use a dh61 and not the dh62 igniter? I debated about switching my 2 pins but didn't know if that would effect anything. Any other advice?

LethalSC

Would you recommend 550cc injectors (without piggyback) when doing this mod? Is it true that JDM ECU learns about the 550cc over time and adjust itself.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Not sure what is going on but the pinouts are the same for the dh61 and ds62 I am pretty sure they are interchangeable.

No, you should use a piggyback with 550cc because it only learns in closed loop, when you tap the throttle or go open loop you will run very rich, you will also run rich in boost.
You can do it and the car will run, but its not ideal and I would rather just install a afc and a boost cut controller if needed.

Osbornecox

Well guys just another update, still not running and still have code 14. A few things I have done:
-ohm'd all the wires to test continuity(all wires that were ran for the mod) all tested good
-double checked that all pins were seated and pushed in correctly
-double checked timing on the distributor
-all coil connectors have power to pin 1 with the key on, checked with test light
-put my igniter on my nephews 4Runner, it started on his vehicle
-I bought 3 new Toyota brand coils and all tested good via the site noted above
-both ecus I'm using don't appear to have any defects in the boards or any leaking capacitors

Some other things to note
-the car ran before I started this mod
-I did hook up my aristo ecu to the stock setup to see if it would work (feared I might have gotten a stock ecu with jdm cover, hopefully this wouldn't have hurt the ecu)
-I did a ffim same time as the mod along with relocating the battery to the trunk
-I'm pretty sure the injectors are firing cause I can smell fuel after it has been turned over
-all grounds are good(igniter, 2 on bottom of the intake, one by the valve cover. I tested these with a test light)
-I can hook power to a coil then try to ground it out and still not getting spark(Im doing this with test lead wires and hooking it up to my battery)

I don't know of anything else I can do. The only thing I know to do is to send the key components to a reputable member who has done the mod and compensate them to put my parts on there running vehicle to see if my parts work. Any volunteers?

But if anyone knows anything else I can check please let me know. Thank

super51fan

I plan on trying this with my 03 gs300. I know I will need a map, maf, and 440cc injectors but I'm hung up on the transmission. Will I have to use the Aristo trans since the GS has a 5 speed auto?

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Osbornecox, are you sure you got the big ground under the intake manifold when you did the FFIM? that one can cause lots of issues if not connected.

Haven't heard of a bad ecu not giving any spark, usually it will just run badly but still run somewhat.
Describe the power wire again since that is the last thing you mentioned. almost sounds like your ignitor is not on.
I am not sure if you can manually spark the coils like that, maybe its possible but I have never tried it.
Really does seem like a power or ground issue with the ignitor wiring. make sure not to confuse the tach wire with ground, sometimes the tach wire is black and can be confusing.


Superfan, haven't done the mod on an originally vvti vehicle. are you trying to use the 2jzgte vvti ecu on it? that would make the most sense.
Not sure about the transmissions, I am thinking though you will want to go to a 2jzgte unit (use vvti if using vvti ecu). I think even the later gte's are 4 speeds.

super51fan

Yes I plan on using the vvti gte ecu on a vvti na-t engine and harness (with added connectors of course). After some research, it looks like I will definitely need a 4 speed.

Osbornecox

Ali, I pulled my ffim tonight to confirm that both grounds are good, I tested them both via a test light. Also confirmed that the noise filter has a good power and ground with a test light.

I also checked the B+ going to the igniter and all 3 coils and all of them have power according to a test light.
I also confirmed that the tac wire and ground are wired correctly. I ran a new wire for the ground and grounded it on the shock tower. The tac wire was moved from the old igniter harness to the ds62 pigtail, it is a black wire but isn't grounded out.

Another thing to to note is that I haven't done the tac mod on my cluster but I wouldn't think that would effect anything other then my gauge not working.

But i also believe it is a power or ground issue. I just can't figure it out. I know all 3 coils and igniter have power via the B+. I'm just not sure if it is grounding itself out like it's supposed to to complete the circuit to make it fire. I don't know if there is a way to simulate that or test that.