2JZGE Na-T TT Ecu Mod
10-24-16, 02:01 AM
#3257
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: AZ
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So I have a Jdm gte Ecu manual 6 speed
seems like my car at wot pulls I starts to stutter below 5k around 4800 it's starts and doesn't go anywhere I've been looking around and people seem to say it's a neutral switch but it's and manual Ecu what I did was I just tapped the two wires together and it's stays all time so I can start the car without pressing clutch (I have a aftermarket clutch so no place to put a switch)
wjat can cause the car to start hitting a wall around that rpm and. It even boosting more then 8psi
i did see forums on people saying I'm the Ecu maybe showing I'm in park but I have a manual Ecu does that issue also matter in a 6 speed Ecu if so how would I fix that issue or how do they fix the issue in the auto Ecu
seems like my car at wot pulls I starts to stutter below 5k around 4800 it's starts and doesn't go anywhere I've been looking around and people seem to say it's a neutral switch but it's and manual Ecu what I did was I just tapped the two wires together and it's stays all time so I can start the car without pressing clutch (I have a aftermarket clutch so no place to put a switch)
wjat can cause the car to start hitting a wall around that rpm and. It even boosting more then 8psi
i did see forums on people saying I'm the Ecu maybe showing I'm in park but I have a manual Ecu does that issue also matter in a 6 speed Ecu if so how would I fix that issue or how do they fix the issue in the auto Ecu
Last edited by asianic68; 10-24-16 at 02:10 AM.
10-24-16, 11:47 AM
#3258
unless the check engine light is blinking at you it might not be the ecu doing it, it could just be that its running so rich its washing out the spark. what ignition setup and plug gap are you running?
you might need to gap down the plugs or get the mixture right... do you have a wideband?
also I remember talking to you via pm about your tps and your base timing, you need to make sure everything is correct cause it could be any of those things.
do you have the TT check valve on your IACV, the grommet etc to keep boost from leaking out?
you might need to gap down the plugs or get the mixture right... do you have a wideband?
also I remember talking to you via pm about your tps and your base timing, you need to make sure everything is correct cause it could be any of those things.
do you have the TT check valve on your IACV, the grommet etc to keep boost from leaking out?
10-24-16, 11:21 PM
#3259
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: AZ
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
@alisc3 no check engine light there are Ngk iriidiums I believe the my are range 6 blei6ex or something like that is300 coils 6 speed Ecu only does tit when doing full theottle pulls and hard pulls
which way would I turn my tps my tps at the moment is pretty much vertical right now with the connector facing up
and the timing like I said I can't get it down from 10-12 was lowest and the idl kept droping and that maxed so I'm not sure what's happen I don't think I can even get it to zero base I'll have to try again tomorrow I just don't know how to adjust the tps which way or should I try and flip the tps sensor to face down wards it works pretty good and pulls good y the way it is now
it just the engine doesn't sound right the engine rev sounds a bit high when coasting at 3k and the timing I can't get it to the timing that u set on the instructions
the iacv when cold starts it idle oerfect looks like the iacv works and is metering I wanna say after 2-3 minutes the iacv slowly opens up more to fully open and the idle starts surging...
i took an iacv straight from a ls400 1uze iacv which I assume should be the same and u show me what grommets I need if I'm missing anything from it because whatever I took off the 1uz I put on..
which way would I turn my tps my tps at the moment is pretty much vertical right now with the connector facing up
and the timing like I said I can't get it down from 10-12 was lowest and the idl kept droping and that maxed so I'm not sure what's happen I don't think I can even get it to zero base I'll have to try again tomorrow I just don't know how to adjust the tps which way or should I try and flip the tps sensor to face down wards it works pretty good and pulls good y the way it is now
it just the engine doesn't sound right the engine rev sounds a bit high when coasting at 3k and the timing I can't get it to the timing that u set on the instructions
the iacv when cold starts it idle oerfect looks like the iacv works and is metering I wanna say after 2-3 minutes the iacv slowly opens up more to fully open and the idle starts surging...
i took an iacv straight from a ls400 1uze iacv which I assume should be the same and u show me what grommets I need if I'm missing anything from it because whatever I took off the 1uz I put on..
10-25-16, 09:55 AM
#3260
Since you have a custom throttle body, saying what position your tps is in does not really help at all.
saying that it works pretty good and pulls good doesn't mean much cause you are also saying you hit a wall at 8 psi and it doesn't idle right, so there is an issue.
I explained to you via PM that you need to adjust the tps until you can hear the change in the motor when you put the jumper in to check timing.
You have not said if you have heard this or not, so I can't really say if your tps is in the right position.
Since you cannot lower it below 10, and assuming you haven't fully removed the distributor, I would guess your tps is not in the right position.
when the tps is not activating the idle pin, the ecu will not let you set the base timing and will keep showing actual timing, and you shouldn't be adjusting the timing off of that.
generally the position you want it in is where the tabs on the inside of the tps are hardly being moved, as in move it to the position where they aren't being moved at all, then move it over a hair to where is slightly is.
The factory procedure involves a feeler gauge and/or resistance values, but it can be done by feel and checking the jumper as I keep saying.
I can tell you that if it isn't in the right position you wont be able to lower the timing correctly, you will be looking at actual timing instead of base timing.
it will affect the idle, often hunting like you described... and the ecu will do funny things in general. It might not be the only issue, but since you have a FFIM and different throttle body, I am guessing that is part of the issue.
For the IACV you need to order the 2jzgte check valve and grommet, otherwise boost will leak out the IACV and could be a big part of your issue... the ls400 was not turbocharged so it never had those parts.
If you only installed the ls400 iacv without the check valve then you are leaking out boost and is definately part of the problem.
they look like this, the bottom right piece is the check valve, the bottom middle is the grommet:
saying that it works pretty good and pulls good doesn't mean much cause you are also saying you hit a wall at 8 psi and it doesn't idle right, so there is an issue.
I explained to you via PM that you need to adjust the tps until you can hear the change in the motor when you put the jumper in to check timing.
You have not said if you have heard this or not, so I can't really say if your tps is in the right position.
Since you cannot lower it below 10, and assuming you haven't fully removed the distributor, I would guess your tps is not in the right position.
when the tps is not activating the idle pin, the ecu will not let you set the base timing and will keep showing actual timing, and you shouldn't be adjusting the timing off of that.
generally the position you want it in is where the tabs on the inside of the tps are hardly being moved, as in move it to the position where they aren't being moved at all, then move it over a hair to where is slightly is.
The factory procedure involves a feeler gauge and/or resistance values, but it can be done by feel and checking the jumper as I keep saying.
I can tell you that if it isn't in the right position you wont be able to lower the timing correctly, you will be looking at actual timing instead of base timing.
it will affect the idle, often hunting like you described... and the ecu will do funny things in general. It might not be the only issue, but since you have a FFIM and different throttle body, I am guessing that is part of the issue.
For the IACV you need to order the 2jzgte check valve and grommet, otherwise boost will leak out the IACV and could be a big part of your issue... the ls400 was not turbocharged so it never had those parts.
If you only installed the ls400 iacv without the check valve then you are leaking out boost and is definately part of the problem.
they look like this, the bottom right piece is the check valve, the bottom middle is the grommet:
10-25-16, 08:55 PM
#3261
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: AZ
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
When I jump the harnes I do hear the idl change I will get them car up to running temperature and I'll make a vid of it once I jump it because I here a change in idle
10-26-16, 03:50 PM
#3262
if you heard the change in idle then the tps is in an OK position, if you still cant get the timing down low enough, then you need to reinstall the distributor cause its likely been put in a tooth off... usually happens when you remove it.
do you have those pieces in your IACV? if not that could be the issue cause it will create a large boost leak.
also you could be running too rich and washing out the spark, see what the wideband is saying, you might be able to gap down plugs to compensate.
do you have those pieces in your IACV? if not that could be the issue cause it will create a large boost leak.
also you could be running too rich and washing out the spark, see what the wideband is saying, you might be able to gap down plugs to compensate.
11-04-16, 06:29 AM
#3264
Originally Posted by joe diego
tt ecu mod caused my stock fuel pump to go bad, but that's fine.
In the process of installing a relay for my Supra fuel pump but I'm trying to figure out which color wire on the fuel pump ecu harness is the switched source.
In the process of installing a relay for my Supra fuel pump but I'm trying to figure out which color wire on the fuel pump ecu harness is the switched source.
11-09-16, 08:25 PM
#3267
Originally Posted by Ali SC3
Since you have a custom throttle body, saying what position your tps is in does not really help at all.
saying that it works pretty good and pulls good doesn't mean much cause you are also saying you hit a wall at 8 psi and it doesn't idle right, so there is an issue.
I explained to you via PM that you need to adjust the tps until you can hear the change in the motor when you put the jumper in to check timing.
You have not said if you have heard this or not, so I can't really say if your tps is in the right position.
Since you cannot lower it below 10, and assuming you haven't fully removed the distributor, I would guess your tps is not in the right position.
when the tps is not activating the idle pin, the ecu will not let you set the base timing and will keep showing actual timing, and you shouldn't be adjusting the timing off of that.
generally the position you want it in is where the tabs on the inside of the tps are hardly being moved, as in move it to the position where they aren't being moved at all, then move it over a hair to where is slightly is.
The factory procedure involves a feeler gauge and/or resistance values, but it can be done by feel and checking the jumper as I keep saying.
I can tell you that if it isn't in the right position you wont be able to lower the timing correctly, you will be looking at actual timing instead of base timing.
it will affect the idle, often hunting like you described... and the ecu will do funny things in general. It might not be the only issue, but since you have a FFIM and different throttle body, I am guessing that is part of the issue.
For the IACV you need to order the 2jzgte check valve and grommet, otherwise boost will leak out the IACV and could be a big part of your issue... the ls400 was not turbocharged so it never had those parts.
If you only installed the ls400 iacv without the check valve then you are leaking out boost and is definately part of the problem.
they look like this, the bottom right piece is the check valve, the bottom middle is the grommet:
saying that it works pretty good and pulls good doesn't mean much cause you are also saying you hit a wall at 8 psi and it doesn't idle right, so there is an issue.
I explained to you via PM that you need to adjust the tps until you can hear the change in the motor when you put the jumper in to check timing.
You have not said if you have heard this or not, so I can't really say if your tps is in the right position.
Since you cannot lower it below 10, and assuming you haven't fully removed the distributor, I would guess your tps is not in the right position.
when the tps is not activating the idle pin, the ecu will not let you set the base timing and will keep showing actual timing, and you shouldn't be adjusting the timing off of that.
generally the position you want it in is where the tabs on the inside of the tps are hardly being moved, as in move it to the position where they aren't being moved at all, then move it over a hair to where is slightly is.
The factory procedure involves a feeler gauge and/or resistance values, but it can be done by feel and checking the jumper as I keep saying.
I can tell you that if it isn't in the right position you wont be able to lower the timing correctly, you will be looking at actual timing instead of base timing.
it will affect the idle, often hunting like you described... and the ecu will do funny things in general. It might not be the only issue, but since you have a FFIM and different throttle body, I am guessing that is part of the issue.
For the IACV you need to order the 2jzgte check valve and grommet, otherwise boost will leak out the IACV and could be a big part of your issue... the ls400 was not turbocharged so it never had those parts.
If you only installed the ls400 iacv without the check valve then you are leaking out boost and is definately part of the problem.
they look like this, the bottom right piece is the check valve, the bottom middle is the grommet:
The following users liked this post:
Kris9884 (05-25-22)
11-10-16, 08:48 AM
#3268
Yes they are needed if you are running an open air filter on the end of that barb on the idle valve.
you must have missed it or it was in closed position when you tested it but it can/will leak out boost from there if you have just a filter on it, that is the whole reason its there its a check valve.
you may still be able to build boost but if you fix it you will spool faster and run more consistent.
It is not needed if you route a hose from the barb to the pressurized intercooler piping... but most people do not do that unless they are on a maf setup.
you must have missed it or it was in closed position when you tested it but it can/will leak out boost from there if you have just a filter on it, that is the whole reason its there its a check valve.
you may still be able to build boost but if you fix it you will spool faster and run more consistent.
It is not needed if you route a hose from the barb to the pressurized intercooler piping... but most people do not do that unless they are on a maf setup.
The following users liked this post:
Kris9884 (05-25-22)
12-07-16, 09:58 AM
#3269
Bumping this thread since I have been reading a lot about NA-T for my current project !
NOTE : Before anyone complains why this thread is on this section, it being a Performance Upgrade topic , this thread has a special permission from the Administrator to stay on this Main Section. Dang my friend Ali unfortunately is so busy with his Corvette and Audi that he is seldom here now .... hint hint hint
. He better not let me see those cars or I will burn them to the ground, lmaol.
NOTE : Before anyone complains why this thread is on this section, it being a Performance Upgrade topic , this thread has a special permission from the Administrator to stay on this Main Section. Dang my friend Ali unfortunately is so busy with his Corvette and Audi that he is seldom here now .... hint hint hint
. He better not let me see those cars or I will burn them to the ground, lmaol.
12-07-16, 02:30 PM
#3270
Hahaha I was going to say you would have to catch me first... then I realized even your slowest car is faster than mine right now lol 
Time to start turning some wrenches so I can keep up... I bought a single turbo manifold setup for the 350 but can't decide if I want to go down that route or just build it into a 383... or both LMAO
Some day when I have space/time again I'll pick up a clean 400 and see how much boost she can take. It will probably be a while though.
Time to start turning some wrenches so I can keep up... I bought a single turbo manifold setup for the 350 but can't decide if I want to go down that route or just build it into a 383... or both LMAO
Some day when I have space/time again I'll pick up a clean 400 and see how much boost she can take. It will probably be a while though.