2JZGE Na-T TT Ecu Mod
09-15-16, 10:44 PM
#3241
I'm at 8 advanced just being conseravative but should i run 10? I've got a gte head gasket and arp studs running 12psi.
it idles like 600 rpms nice and smooth everything feels right.
On cold starts it doesnt idle as high as it used too. Before the jdm supra ecu it would idle at like 1100 till it warmed up a bit. Now its like 800 or less on cold starts. I'm almost thinking the GM IAT intake air temp sensor is off.
I hooked up a timing light to make sure my timing was alright and with the jumper unplugged it was like 13 degrees advanced at idle. It dropped down to 8 with the jumper connected.
I'm also seeing AFR's in the 9's when in full boost. they are good normal driving 14's and low boost its like 12 but once im at more then like 8-9 psi it drops to the 9s... It's pulling hard still but i'm thinking this is because of the plugs im running. They are stock and .42 gap instead of .32. I'm going to put new plugs today and see if it fixes it
Per the BOV suggestion, i didn't think that would affect vacuum because its before the throttle flapper lol
it idles like 600 rpms nice and smooth everything feels right.
On cold starts it doesnt idle as high as it used too. Before the jdm supra ecu it would idle at like 1100 till it warmed up a bit. Now its like 800 or less on cold starts. I'm almost thinking the GM IAT intake air temp sensor is off.
I hooked up a timing light to make sure my timing was alright and with the jumper unplugged it was like 13 degrees advanced at idle. It dropped down to 8 with the jumper connected.
I'm also seeing AFR's in the 9's when in full boost. they are good normal driving 14's and low boost its like 12 but once im at more then like 8-9 psi it drops to the 9s... It's pulling hard still but i'm thinking this is because of the plugs im running. They are stock and .42 gap instead of .32. I'm going to put new plugs today and see if it fixes it
Per the BOV suggestion, i didn't think that would affect vacuum because its before the throttle flapper lol
Last edited by scsexy; 09-16-16 at 07:49 AM.
09-16-16, 08:28 AM
#3242
It just changes its idles as the ecu learns more and more, if you were to reset it then you would notice it higher for a while. after that on later starts it uses stored trim values etc..
I think 8 in general is a safe place to run but you are at altitide like me so you could go to 10 if you like, especially since you are on lower boost.
if you feel any pinging or knocking when like in 2nd or 3rd low rp,m's and you punch it (before boost) then you will know you need to back it off hair. if its fine and smooth then 10 should be fine since you did the gasket but if its all happy at 8 I would just say leave it there for now.
9's is pretty rich but then again you aren't running a whole lot of boost. I forgot are you on 440's or 550's? piggyback?
sounds mostly normal, you could pull out a bit of fuel but try the plugs first that might have something to do with it. if you are on distributor try .028 gap, on the vvti oils try .032 gap.
I have seen people get away up to .044 with coilpacks, but more on gte coils vs vvti with vvti in the 30's is good.
Once everything is fine I would probably install a boost cut controller and just crank up the boost ill it drops to the 11's, then you get more boost and no need for a fuel controller to pull fuel for lower boost levels. since you have the gasket turn it up till you see AFRs in the 11's and lock it down would be my suggestion.
THe bov can affect it slightly, not a lot but slightly cause it shortens the path the intake is pulling air from. its not large but thought I would throw it out there, it will also affect the throttle response at times on the map sensor ecu's if its cracked at idle. contrary to popular belief, a tial should be closed at idle and then open with the slightest crack of the throttle.
I have seen GTR's setup by really nice shop that leave them open a idle... and the idle and off idle response sounds like poo, but some people only care about wide open throttle and any cool sounds it might make set up incorrectly like that.
I think 8 in general is a safe place to run but you are at altitide like me so you could go to 10 if you like, especially since you are on lower boost.
if you feel any pinging or knocking when like in 2nd or 3rd low rp,m's and you punch it (before boost) then you will know you need to back it off hair. if its fine and smooth then 10 should be fine since you did the gasket but if its all happy at 8 I would just say leave it there for now.
9's is pretty rich but then again you aren't running a whole lot of boost. I forgot are you on 440's or 550's? piggyback?
sounds mostly normal, you could pull out a bit of fuel but try the plugs first that might have something to do with it. if you are on distributor try .028 gap, on the vvti oils try .032 gap.
I have seen people get away up to .044 with coilpacks, but more on gte coils vs vvti with vvti in the 30's is good.
Once everything is fine I would probably install a boost cut controller and just crank up the boost ill it drops to the 11's, then you get more boost and no need for a fuel controller to pull fuel for lower boost levels. since you have the gasket turn it up till you see AFRs in the 11's and lock it down would be my suggestion.
THe bov can affect it slightly, not a lot but slightly cause it shortens the path the intake is pulling air from. its not large but thought I would throw it out there, it will also affect the throttle response at times on the map sensor ecu's if its cracked at idle. contrary to popular belief, a tial should be closed at idle and then open with the slightest crack of the throttle.
I have seen GTR's setup by really nice shop that leave them open a idle... and the idle and off idle response sounds like poo, but some people only care about wide open throttle and any cool sounds it might make set up incorrectly like that.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 09-16-16 at 10:47 AM.
09-16-16, 11:05 AM
#3243
I just have the jdm manual supra ecu controlling everything, no piggyback.
I installed the 32 gap plugs and no change yet either.. could this have to do with my stock fuel pressure regulator rising with boost? i've got vvti coils btw
I've got 440's at 42 psi but they increase with more fuel pressure is what it said on the box from osidetiger.(which is why i'm thinking the regulator could be the cause)
I blocked off the regulator from vacuum so it can't "raise" the pressure when the turbo starts boosting. I can't tell if the air fuels are doing first gear pulls. I almost think they are lower than 9. any better i'm going to have do get on the highway and test unless you think this is dangerous
My boost controller is fried from being in the garage for a few months i assume, so i'm waiting on a new one so i can up the boost. Its just on the 12 pound spring right now.
I assume u mean since i've got the head gasket i can turn the boost up. I'll try that when the boost controller comes.
I installed the 32 gap plugs and no change yet either.. could this have to do with my stock fuel pressure regulator rising with boost? i've got vvti coils btw
I've got 440's at 42 psi but they increase with more fuel pressure is what it said on the box from osidetiger.(which is why i'm thinking the regulator could be the cause)
I blocked off the regulator from vacuum so it can't "raise" the pressure when the turbo starts boosting. I can't tell if the air fuels are doing first gear pulls. I almost think they are lower than 9. any better i'm going to have do get on the highway and test unless you think this is dangerous
My boost controller is fried from being in the garage for a few months i assume, so i'm waiting on a new one so i can up the boost. Its just on the 12 pound spring right now.
I assume u mean since i've got the head gasket i can turn the boost up. I'll try that when the boost controller comes.
Last edited by scsexy; 09-16-16 at 01:35 PM.
09-16-16, 12:34 PM
#3244
Your setup is perfect man, the fuel pressure regulator is supposed to rise with boost, never block that off!!! put it back before boosting or you can severely lean out and loose a piston. Yes its extremely dangerous do not do that!!!
440 you have will be perfect, these ecu's from the factory were designed to run that rich, which is why turning up the boost a little bit takes care of that and you get more power, its like a win win, everyone does it. If you didn;t have the headgasket then I would say keep boost hte same and get an safc to lean it out, but you should just turn up the boost and use a boost cut controller and a boost controller, the cheap manual boost controllers are the most reliable and what I use.
I wouldn't mess with anything else, really it sounds like you nailed setting it up on the tt ecu mod, its supossed to be that rich at that psi
my wideband used to be pegged at full rich 10 with the 440's also on lower boost levels, you will waste some gas but it will be fine for now. when you use the boost cut it will clamp it, so that extra fuel is a good thing cause it lets you raise the boost to a comfortable level. I think once you get around 16 psi you will see favorable AFR's and it will pull like a tractor, trust me on this one. just get the cut controller in and dial in the boost controller... the boost controller will also make you spool faster, which helps lean out some of that extra fuel as you rocket to max boost.
If you are on the stock intake manifold, remember to hook up the ACIS correctly, that will help you burn off some of that extra fuel in spool as well.
If you ever end up around denver or even colorado springs drop me a line always nice to see another na-t in person.
440 you have will be perfect, these ecu's from the factory were designed to run that rich, which is why turning up the boost a little bit takes care of that and you get more power, its like a win win, everyone does it. If you didn;t have the headgasket then I would say keep boost hte same and get an safc to lean it out, but you should just turn up the boost and use a boost cut controller and a boost controller, the cheap manual boost controllers are the most reliable and what I use.
I wouldn't mess with anything else, really it sounds like you nailed setting it up on the tt ecu mod, its supossed to be that rich at that psi
my wideband used to be pegged at full rich 10 with the 440's also on lower boost levels, you will waste some gas but it will be fine for now. when you use the boost cut it will clamp it, so that extra fuel is a good thing cause it lets you raise the boost to a comfortable level. I think once you get around 16 psi you will see favorable AFR's and it will pull like a tractor, trust me on this one. just get the cut controller in and dial in the boost controller... the boost controller will also make you spool faster, which helps lean out some of that extra fuel as you rocket to max boost.
If you are on the stock intake manifold, remember to hook up the ACIS correctly, that will help you burn off some of that extra fuel in spool as well.
If you ever end up around denver or even colorado springs drop me a line always nice to see another na-t in person.
09-16-16, 01:40 PM
#3245
Thanks man! I had an electronic boost controller that came with a turbo timer. I was thinking about buying the same one, it had a lot of features. What do you mean boost cut controller?
I was also wondering why my car doesnt bounce off the rev limiter like i see t2jz's do on youtube drift videos.. it just cuts fuel after 6500rpms... Is that was your talking when you mention cut controller?
My aunt lives in Denver and whenever i fly anywhere i go out of denver because 200 round trip flights from there cost me 600 and a stop/layover from where i live. I'm taking it to the track in grand junction tonight and i'll keep you posted what she runs.
I was also wondering why my car doesnt bounce off the rev limiter like i see t2jz's do on youtube drift videos.. it just cuts fuel after 6500rpms... Is that was your talking when you mention cut controller?
My aunt lives in Denver and whenever i fly anywhere i go out of denver because 200 round trip flights from there cost me 600 and a stop/layover from where i live. I'm taking it to the track in grand junction tonight and i'll keep you posted what she runs.
09-16-16, 02:46 PM
#3246
Electronic boost controller is nice, but I just use a manual one less fiddling to do and more consistent, but a properly setup electronic is sweet also I have used those before also they are just more complicated.
so the factory ecu will cut boost if you hit more than like 14-16 psi. so you wont be able to raise it above that without like a greddy boost cut controller aka the "BCC", it gets wired in with the map sensor. without it when the ecu sees that much boost it will literally shut off ignition until the boost lowers, then it gives you back control. it sucks when you hit it.
not sure about the rev limiter, they all kind of act a little differently but you probably just aren't hitting it with enough boost lol, they all do the same soft ignition cut then fuel cut. its not the same thing as the boost cut boost cut happens when you exceed 14-16 psi without the controller.
I see well if you make a trip to Denver later hit me up. Let us know how it goes it should be fun at the track!! try and catch the shift before you hit the limiter if you can lol.. otherwise it slows you down a hair.
old school reading on the BCC
http://mkiv.com/techarticles/bcc/bcc.../bcc_intro.htm
http://mkiv.com/techarticles/bcc/why...GReddy_BCC.htm
check out supraforums classifieds you can probably find one. they are listed for a mr2, but thats the one you use on a supra.
so the factory ecu will cut boost if you hit more than like 14-16 psi. so you wont be able to raise it above that without like a greddy boost cut controller aka the "BCC", it gets wired in with the map sensor. without it when the ecu sees that much boost it will literally shut off ignition until the boost lowers, then it gives you back control. it sucks when you hit it.
not sure about the rev limiter, they all kind of act a little differently but you probably just aren't hitting it with enough boost lol, they all do the same soft ignition cut then fuel cut. its not the same thing as the boost cut boost cut happens when you exceed 14-16 psi without the controller.
I see well if you make a trip to Denver later hit me up. Let us know how it goes it should be fun at the track!! try and catch the shift before you hit the limiter if you can lol.. otherwise it slows you down a hair.
old school reading on the BCC
http://mkiv.com/techarticles/bcc/bcc.../bcc_intro.htm
http://mkiv.com/techarticles/bcc/why...GReddy_BCC.htm
check out supraforums classifieds you can probably find one. they are listed for a mr2, but thats the one you use on a supra.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 09-16-16 at 02:49 PM.
09-16-16, 10:08 PM
#3247
Track updates were pretty disappointing. I couldn't get the launch right and the track was packed... plus somone's car spilled oil and it took an hour to clean.
First run was a 15.2 the second and last run i got in was a 14.7. This was just improving my launch. It was my first time at the track so the reaction time was .758 and .702. not the best lol..
I'm here thinking i could get into the 13's if i can get the damn launch. I probably need a bit more boost for 12s.
I'm going to have to iron the last few things out and give it another go soon. (boost controller, limited slip, possibly boost cut controller)
First run was a 15.2 the second and last run i got in was a 14.7. This was just improving my launch. It was my first time at the track so the reaction time was .758 and .702. not the best lol..
I'm here thinking i could get into the 13's if i can get the damn launch. I probably need a bit more boost for 12s.
I'm going to have to iron the last few things out and give it another go soon. (boost controller, limited slip, possibly boost cut controller)
Last edited by scsexy; 09-17-16 at 11:19 AM.
09-18-16, 08:37 PM
#3248
That isn't too bad for the first time out. People spend years dialing in each of those things and their setups to get good numbers.
Get the boost cut controller and raise your boost until those afr's are in the right zone like I said, you will pick up time on the top end right there.
For launch it'll be lsd, tire setup and practice cause its pretty hard to get going right with 1 tire at the track.
Get the boost cut controller and raise your boost until those afr's are in the right zone like I said, you will pick up time on the top end right there.
For launch it'll be lsd, tire setup and practice cause its pretty hard to get going right with 1 tire at the track.
09-23-16, 02:26 AM
#3249
Not sure if my issue has anything to do with the TT ecu mod but I'll give it a shot here first.
It seems my car stalls while driving in gear. Perhaps it is not getting any fuel but I am not sure. I'd rather not drive the vehicle because it's unsafe. I have done the 12 V fuel mod about three weeks ago when I was experiencing sputtering/stalling. I thought my issue was fixed when I did the mod but now the car just stalls when driving. I'll let the cat sit for a while then drive it around then it happens again and a random time. I am still using the OEM fuel pump and I was wondering if I swapped it out for a supra fuel pump would it fix the issue?
It seems my car stalls while driving in gear. Perhaps it is not getting any fuel but I am not sure. I'd rather not drive the vehicle because it's unsafe. I have done the 12 V fuel mod about three weeks ago when I was experiencing sputtering/stalling. I thought my issue was fixed when I did the mod but now the car just stalls when driving. I'll let the cat sit for a while then drive it around then it happens again and a random time. I am still using the OEM fuel pump and I was wondering if I swapped it out for a supra fuel pump would it fix the issue?
09-23-16, 09:44 AM
#3250
almost sounds like the pump is going bad. doing the 12v fuel mod might have just made it go kaput even faster.
It could be alot of things though but that just seems like the most obvious.
you should upgrade the fuel pump anyways to a walboro or tt unit with a single turbo, so I would start with that and go from there.
Maybe do the fuel filter while you are at it if you haven't done it in a long time or ever.
It could be alot of things though but that just seems like the most obvious.
you should upgrade the fuel pump anyways to a walboro or tt unit with a single turbo, so I would start with that and go from there.
Maybe do the fuel filter while you are at it if you haven't done it in a long time or ever.
09-23-16, 02:24 PM
#3251
almost sounds like the pump is going bad. doing the 12v fuel mod might have just made it go kaput even faster.
It could be alot of things though but that just seems like the most obvious.
you should upgrade the fuel pump anyways to a walboro or tt unit with a single turbo, so I would start with that and go from there.
Maybe do the fuel filter while you are at it if you haven't done it in a long time or ever.
It could be alot of things though but that just seems like the most obvious.
you should upgrade the fuel pump anyways to a walboro or tt unit with a single turbo, so I would start with that and go from there.
Maybe do the fuel filter while you are at it if you haven't done it in a long time or ever.
09-24-16, 05:41 AM
#3252
If you are 98+ vvti, then you have to use a JDM VVTI 2jzgte ecu but odb2 port will not work. The VVTI 2jzgte was never offered in US. The 2jzgte vvti and 2jzge vvti have the same ecu connector (I think), but its not the same as non vvti connector, so you are stuck with this ecu but the good news is you already have the right coilpacks ignitor and most of the wiring, and once done it will control vvti like a gte would, will probably need a gte maf to be swapped in place of stock maf and a map sensor added (2jz) to keep ecu happy. Don't think anyone has done this so let us know if you have more info on it.
In fact , I will go as far as saying : If you want a 2JZGTE VVTi swap into your SC300 ,get the 98-2002 SC300 2JZGE VVTi engine harness and you have very little work to do. You don't need to spend +1000 USD for a swap harness. I will add this in my 2JZGTE Wiring Harness Made Easy thread. Most of the differences are on the pin locations for the auto transmission and missing VSVs for the turbo components of the 2jzGTE. If you are going manual and single , you don't even need all that. A few items needed though like MAP sensor wiring... not really much . That saves a lot of money for a 2JZGTE swap project !
Last edited by gerrb; 09-24-16 at 06:46 AM.
