Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

I think there is a resistance check on the distributor. 12v is normal to have there but what makes them firs is the ignitor grounding them or for the injectors its the ecu grounding them. if you get nothing on the noid light then the ecu is not firing for some reason, could be lots of reasons on a fresh swap.

I wouldn't use wire taps but they should work temporarily. Pairing means connecting IGT1+IGT6, IGT2+IGT5, and IGT 3+IGT4 just like in the diagram.
I can't remember all the ground wires there are but that is the main one you are referring to. there is one also coming off of the engine harness that has to attach to the intake manifold.

joe diego

iTrader: (3)

Just installed brand new coils and plugs and it did not start. Very frustrating. I know it's not the wiring.. I'm at the point where I know exactly which wire goes to ecu to igniter to coils... have all that memorized. Ali, is it possible I have a bad igniter even though it's capable to start with the distributor and dis. wires?

asianic68

can you let me know wheres trhe grounds u have i know there is no ground on my intake manifold ill have to look into that.. i do have teh ffim also can u confirm for me where the grounds are thanks

joe diego

iTrader: (3)

You have a pm

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Its possible if the ignitor has some bad channels, but I haven't really heard of them going bad before. you could try running the distributor on channel 2, and then channel 3 to confirm if they work or not, but probably easier to use try another ignitor.

you aren't unplugging the 4 pin clip from the distributor just to confirm, only remove the rotor from inside the distributor cap at some point.

also I am not sure if there is a polarity on the coils, but I made sure my 3 coilpack clips had 12V on the same side as the stock coil connector so may want to double check that and just swap pins if that is the case. I am assuming you left the stock coil clip in place since you are going back and forth.

its probably a pain to keep swapping back and forth so there must be a way to solve it.
make sure your connections/ splices are good. there isn't much too it, even if the coils misfired it should still start and run. almost makes me think there is an issue with the IGF wire, double check it since its really close to the last IGT wire. its the red/yellow wire that runs to ignitor, without it or if its loose in the connector the car wont start/run.

its towards the front on the top of the lower runner there is a spot for a bolt that the harness ground connects to. alot of people forget to reconnect it when installing the FFIM, but you can just move it to another spot and it will bolt down just fine, I forgot exactly but it was pretty obvious. it should be hanging off your harness around there and has thick ground wire with a flat connector with a bolt hole.

asianic68

@alisc3 i think i seen that im think i quickly just bolted to a stud i used from my valve cover haha.. im gonna go a bolt that to the manifold.. would it be the same if i bolt that so the bolts that hold the egr block plate

joe diego

iTrader: (3)

Thanks to Ali and asianic68 my car runs! I almost threw in the towel too. It's time to move on to the FFIM.

asianic68

awesome now i jsutt need mine to work i literally ran new wire made new grounds brand new distributor and i also tapp the dizzy and the igniter wires straight to the ecu. bypassed the harness and confirmed its all connected and no resistance
still no spart or inj pulse idk if i should try and by a new ecu..when the ecu i have has been stated good idk what else is in conjuction with the spark and inj setup

eblick99

iTrader: (1)

i lost the page where the link to getting the tacho to work with GTE ecu went. I remember something about pulling gauge cluster and then wiring a jumper or resistor in the back somewhere? on top of that i need to figure out how to get mk3 R154 speedo sensor working...i picked up a thingy from marlin crawler that is supposed to do that i think. itd be nice to have the speedo and tach work.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

So what was the fix, after all that you gotta tell us what fixed it.

Why did you tap the dizzy wires? they should be left stock.
there isn't that much wiring so try not to complicate it by doing extra stuff.
people have had bad ecu's and people have had bad map sensors, but yours sounds like wiring or the ecu.

I had updated it up on the first post, you are pulling the cluster and adding the jumper on the correct resistor depending on year. for the speed you need to do the correct speed sensor likely the marlin crawler piece will fix it if you got the right one. I don't know the specific one but I know you have to do something like that to get it to work.

tptpete

iTrader: (2)

I have read through this and seen the vacuum diagrams for the 2JZ-GE. Is the front port on the IM (facing front of car) good to use for the BOV? It looks like it should be. It has been capped on my car, so that's what I was going to use. I see others adding posts, and I haven't figured out why with that one there.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

yes that works fine for the BOV, some people still use that for power steering switch (I removed and used it for the bov when I had stock intake on, and had map sensor teed into line for FPR). it will also work for the map sensor, just dont put the map sensor on the same line as the BOV, bov tends to mess with the map a little.

tptpete

iTrader: (2)

Ah okay. I was just confused why people were adding ports. Thanks!

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

well there is a port for the map sensor from the factory on the JDM models (rear of intake by the vac hoses for egr and heater), it is just capped off with a hex bolt on our cars. So some people like to do that but really Its not necessary you can do BOV where the power steering was and tap the fuel pressure regulator line for the map sensor. drove for years like that.

asianic68

i quadruple checked wiring so i know wiring is in good order.. now as far as having a bad map will that cuz no spark or inj.i have another ecu coming in tomorrow.. i know the wiring aint complicating but im just stumped on whats goin on and why i dont have any pulse or spark grounds and wires are good.. how can i test my map because i did by a working map and wired that correctly also