davvv

iTrader: (1)

Perfect exactly what i wanted to hear. I do have the tt headgasket just forgot to write it.
Cant wait till its up and running!

Studiogeek

iTrader: (6)

Hey Guys,
Can I go with 1000 injectors with a MapEcu3 without making drivability suffer? Is it just a function of the tuner knowing how to tune with them?
My builder suggests Deatschwerks and I use their 550's now. They go from 770 to 1000. We wanted to stay with the same brand because of the cost and quality. Is it smarter to find an 880 I like or will I be fine with 1000's? Some people on Mapecu forum use 1000's.

If it's dumb, who makes the best 880's for the price?

I would like to find the "safe" max for my setup now and skip the incremental thing. I hope to nearly "max out" my setup but safely avoid going standalone. I want the best of both worlds, sweet spot. What can the TT ECU and Mapecu3 safely handle? I'm using a Comp, 6767.

Thank You!

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Good question, don't really know to be honest I haven't tried injectors above 550 yet but have come across some of the same posts as you in the map ecu forum. 1000cc would be fine on e85 but on pump gas that might be pushing it, hard to say without trying it. may be safer to just get injector you need hp wise for now than get larger injectors that you wont use for a while. unless you plan to make 800hp on the tt ecu you probably don't need 880's even.

Studiogeek

iTrader: (6)

I considered just installing the MapEcu3 and getting a proper tune with it but it seems like a blown opportunity to max out. Maybe 770's would be worth it. Supposedly you get a bit extra out of these injectors somehow. Can I assume 550's can make 500hp, 770's ann make 700hp (or so) etc.?

A nicely tuned 600-700 would be fine for me. What would i need to get that with the MapEcu3?

Reyke

So been digging around on the supra forums and they all say the factory traction control is extremely invasive and pointless, so I found a thread detailing its removal and the proper resistors in place to keep the fault lights off.

Thanks again Ali

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

no problem, yeah I love that my 5spd has no traction control. I have driven one with it and if you get it a little loose on a turn it will kick in and keep you from moving basically, its kinda stupid at times, but then at other times it can be usefull. most of the time its not useful though and I would bypass it, but I think cars that had trac originally also have a button to turn it off, however annoying that might be though.

Studio, 660's should see you to 600 and about as far as you would want to push it on pump generally. at that point you will likely need more fuel stuff and switch to e85, even with a tt gasket there is a limit to how much you want to make on pump gas before detonation becomes an issue. you could add meth injection or go to e85 but likely 660cc is the most you will need on pump gas with the gte ecu and you can get into high 5's and low 6 with that which is really all the tt ecu mod was meant to do. some people try and run more but on pump gas without methanol it can be risky to push into the 700 range, thats more of a switch to e85 or run race fuel situation.

I know you picked up a standalone recently so with that you can run larger injectors and not have issues (especially with ev14 injectors), but you want to keep in mind what fuel you will be using and how much overhead you need. like 1000cc injectors on pump gas is the last injector you will need on pump gas with a standalone, but you will likely not push past 600hp on pump alone so 660cc on a stock ecu wouldn't be much different, but the stock ecu will run 660cc better than 1000cc. since you are standalone now 1000cc is a good place to start, and you can even run E85 on those, although if you are shooting for big power on E85 then you can go even larger.

nasc300

Well, it took way to long but last week I finally had time to swap auto transmissions. Removed the stock GE transmission with Boostlogic valvebody and installed a GTE unit.

The GE auto wouldn't shift under power and then started slipping badly.

Wiring for the GTE transmission was simple enough, just 5 extras wires needed. It works great with solid, quick shifts. Its shimmed though.
I can explain the swap in a little more detail if anyone is interested, but seems just about everyone is running a manual transmission.

Na-T with TT ecu and TT auto, life is good.

joe diego

iTrader: (3)

So I finally found time to remove the distributor wires and add COP. Before this the car was running fine with aristo tt-ecu, 440cc injectors, and ds62 igniter.

The car cranks fine but won't start. I noticed there was a lot of play when I placed the 3 vvti coils on the plugs. They really moved around. I double checked all the wiring and it seems fine.

Any suggestions?

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

probably not that as long as all the springs are still inside the boots. they can move a little but not really anywhere to go unless the boots are damaged and there is a ton of play, the boots usually kind of suction into place.
check that you got the order right on the coils, and on the ignitor. the chances of having 3 bad coils is pretty unlikely so its probably something simple. make sure all the pins are seated well on the connector, and double check the ground on the ignitor. you need a spot with no paint on it more or less or run to battery negative.

joe diego

iTrader: (3)

Ok thanx, i bet your rght about it being something simple.

joe diego

iTrader: (3)

I double checked all the pins going to the ecu, igniter and coils, all seated well. I ran the igniter ground directly to the batterie. I don't think it's a fuel issue because when I loosened one of the fuel lines gas came out when I cranked it. I was thinking about getting brand new coils and clips.

Again, she ran fine just with aristo ecu, 440cc, map and iat sensor.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Having trouble thinking what could be wrong then, it was already running fine on the aristo ecu then actually means the ignitor was good and grounded right (forgot about that part).

it should have been a simple removal of the old jumpered ignition pins at the ecu (where all 6 pins go to the stock coil wire), adding the new pins and wires where they are paired off in 2's. (original coil wire for 1 and 6) new coil wires for 2 and 5, and 3 and 4. make sure those wires are going to the right places on the ignitor, and ignitor to coilpacks. you will be using all 3 channels now on the ignitor.

you getting any backfires or anything to indicate its sparking at all? unless you got a bad batch of coils it pretty much has to come down to wiring or the coils themselves if it was working before.

187

Just to add to ali's above comment when I first did my coil install I had two of the channels reversed and the car would just crank and not start. Be sure to reference his diagram and physically check them.

joe diego

iTrader: (3)

By "channels" do you mean coil wires 1&6, 2&5, and 3&4?

I'm gonna go over everything again tomorrow. Hopefully I'll find something I overlooked.

Thanks

187

Correct, I had # 1 and #3 flipped somehow because all my wires were black. It would be easier to reverse 2 and 3 either at the igniter or at the ecu.