HiPSI

iTrader: (2)

Which injectors did you go with?

BuffNStuff

These. Says theyre flow tested and matched. Came with brand new ev1 connectors. Perfect drop in fitment.

sci2000tec

Buff, I'm in AZ also(Glendale area) if you wanna test your ecu on my car or try one of my ecu's in your car.

asianic68

i had a question goin to start doing the tt ecu mod.. i wanted to know where do u get new wires and the pin connectors for the mod

Studiogeek

iTrader: (6)

Mine came from a junk harness. Ask in classifieds.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

I ordered those injectors one time not noticing its shipped from china, or a reseller in cali that gets it from china, and had a bad experience. Not only did the ones I get appear to be new chineese knockoffs vs oem remanufactured (which is what I wanted but I thoght I had clicked on the oside tiger ones and bought these by accident not noticing they are new chineese injectors), well not only were they knockoffs but they were the wrong size and clearly not flow matched. the chart was generic but what tipped me off is that the injectors came in different sets of boxes, a batch of 4 and then another 2 individual injectors in seemingly original packaging. I would stay away from these or you will have issues, you want to stick with Japanese Denso injectors or Boshce is alright too, Nikki makes some sizes for Dsm's maybe? i forget. the only 2jzge injectors I order on ebay is from oside tiger they are actually a shop in california if you research the sellers, they clean and flow oem style injectors similar to witch hunter performance, which is why the run out from time to time it seems. don't order the other ones new from china these could be part of your issue right there. the plugs that are wet when you pull them could have a leaky injector or they can just all have different flows, but its not easy to tell really between that and bad caps.

I would get the caps fixed as well they dont look terrible though, so maybe try injectors first but really both should be done.

EV1 is aftermarket "square" clips, if you have already rewired then they are drop in. stock clips are "denso" and are rounded.

BuffNStuff

I ordered from osidetiger before and had good results with their 550s but they dont seem to have a 440 option. I figured the ones I got were going to be similar in quality. They claim to flow match them to within 3%, which is what osidetiger claims, and they have a 30day return policy. Injectors were shipped out of Cali, but their invoice/ebay messages were worded like english is a second language, so I think you are right. They accidentally sent me 2 sets of EV1 clips as well lol. I looked at RCs and maaaan they are expensive. I already shipped my ECU out to Driftmotion today, so we will see if that helps first since the caps "should" be replaced anyway because theyre old.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

yeah they aren't close to the quality of oside tiger. oside tiger rebuilds factory oem injectors. those guys you linked are chineese dropshippers that have a front in california so it appears more legit than it is. Ever heard of venom injectors, its basically something of similar quality. I returned them as soon as I noticed the mistake I made.
I would get those uninstalled asap if I were you, if you get a bad mix there goes your engine or at the very least the headgasket, saving the money isn't worth it. I would have just run the oside 550's and gotten a poggyback, in fact that is my current setup 550cc and map ecu. you can also do 550cc and safc on the JDM ecu with good results.

Studiogeek

iTrader: (6)

My car was building boost steadily from 4K and boost cutting at 5.5K. I thought that was it until i install MapEcu3. The car was tuned in 90 degree weather and I got it back as soon as it got cool. I immediately installed a free flowing exhaust and the car was making over 20lbs but I did not know. That's why it was cutting so early. We adjusted it for the exhaust and weather and man what a difference! Beautiful things happen after 5.5K. I had no idea!

HiPSI

iTrader: (2)

Told you! I knew you were hitting a higher boost pressure now that it was cold out which was resulting in it hitting boost cut now versus before. Mine doesn't cut and I'm set at 16-17psi, so 20psi must be the new ECU boost cut with the safc pulley 20%.

Boost cut is a GOOD thing, because we assume everything is peachy and put it to the floor and the ECU is able to watch it for you. As a word of caution always do a test pull in 3rd or 4th gear low RPM and see where the boost is landing before hand just to check.

Glad you got it all back together and running nicely again.

Studiogeek

iTrader: (6)

Yes! You guys were dead on. Thank you! I was just scared to mess with it myself. Too much pressure, literally!
Good advise on the test pull! :thumb:

This ability to boost to redline, the working 4.08 diff, the solid diff bushings not going back on and being confident in the diff has dramatically transformed the car into a machine perfect for it's environment. I look for any excuse to drive it.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

sounds good, yes beautiful things should be happening from 3.5k all the way to redline generally speaking.
Once the mod is dialed in about the only thing you need to change from time to time is small adjustments to the boost controller.
4.08 gearing is good for the city, if you do a lot of highway over 65mph then it can get a little annoying with the higher rpm's but as you noticed that also means you have enough rpm to bosot in 5th, although I prefer to go back to 4th anyways for a pull.

Studiogeek

iTrader: (6)

Yes sir, really happy to get that sorted out. ;-)

I actually had my first problem today. It shut off in traffic, but we got it going. I think perhaps my buddy kicked the wiring by the ECU (maybe not) and the EFI fuse blew. I checked the wiring and replaced the fuse.
The car started but it was running really lean on idle and trying to shut off. I could only keep it going with gas at stoplights. the AFR's looked good when in motion but the idle was dropping low enough to shut off if I didn't keep the RPM's up. The car would also get really lean (16/17 AFR) every time I let it idle. It was sort of "Stoichish" to 12.5 or so when driving in traffic.

Leading up to this i think I saw the precursor to this issue. After some time in NYC traffic generally the car will start to idle really rich and slightly strangely unless I give it gas or start driving it. It makes some sort of a slight diesel sound with an arrhythmia to the pulse of the motor, idles a bit lower and ever so slightly out of rhythm. If i drive it, all seems good, but when at lights or park, It will do that rich/diesel thing. A few times I reset the ECU and it settled down. A few times i shut the car off and restarted it, It seemed to settle in OK again. It seems great when blasting it, AFR's all in shape sounding great but idle occasionally gets weird after an hour or two in traffic. Temps are rock solid 24/7 and all else seemed fine. I think since the passenger seat is rarely used and it was used today, I am fairly confident it was the feet shorting something out. The wires were soldered but some never got taped so i taped them. The puzzling thing was that the super lean, low idle, diesely, arhythmic thing. Driving usually gets me out of this but today the idle stayed too low and it was a chore to get it home. At all other times, It behaves as expected. Once it gets in this mode, it is usually near the end of errand runs in the city and I put it in the garage and it's fine in the morning. Today the issue persisted.
So basically, outside of the shut off/fuse thing:
The car sometimes idles really rich and makes a slight diesel sound after running in traffic for an hour or more. Today it did the same thing, but it was really lean instead. Gets right if I drive it. Idle being lean and way low is the only issue today.
The ECU is really clean and proactively rebuilt at Tannin before installation months ago. I think I have a spare ECU in the trunk, Ill try that tomorrow. It's not rebuilt and has never been installed.

Any ideas what I can do to fix this?

HiPSI

iTrader: (2)

Did you mention that your settings have been adjusted on the safc? What are your idle settings now % fuel pulled? Reset the ecu by pulling the neg battery cable, take it for a drive and after a day or so see if it's still doing it. Normally a battery reset causes the tune to be weird for a little bit till it relearns. I would double check your connections in the foot well, make sure the wiring is sound.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

these ecu's do want to idle at like 650 rpm and they wont go that low until its fully warmed up, fully and it can take like 20 minutes to start doing the lower idle. you will hear it winding down while sitting at a stop down to 650 but the afr should be stoich still. chances are when the safc adjustments were made you weren't idling that low, and when you do idle that low it pulls more vacuum and requires a different adjustment etc... and things are thrown out of the range of adjustment now.

I would double check the map sensor vacuum line make sure its not pinched by a zip tie or something or collapsed or broken.

I cant say for sure but I suspect part of it is because you dont use the same number on the safc across the board. from what I saw on your tune different rpm ranges have different adjustments. I think that confuses the ecu and I would just do the 18-20% or whatever your number is across the board except at WOT rpm's you can deviate from that. I think people think I am kidding when I say that, "tuning" on the JDM ecu is counter productive at times, you are just adjusting for injectors. any tuning you are doing is throwing off the stock tune, which is already good.

what are your adjustment across the ranges right now. I would suggest simplifying.
If you are having the idle lower than 650, you can try bumping up the idle but you will need to turn the tps back some and there is only a small amount of adjustment. most people end up raising the idle screw at least a hair to let a little more air in to stabilize things. but still it has to be in tps range, you can check by trying to do the timing check procedure, if it changes in noise when you put the jumper in, tps is still in correct spot. on the first page.