2JZGE Na-T TT Ecu Mod
#2821
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (2)
So, As many of you have read, I did the OBD2 tt ecu mod a while ago, and it worked okay after a lot of work. My only real issue was that my BOV was non recirculating and it would stall after big pulls, and it ran a little rich in boost. I then went standalone on a v2 and my tuner couldnt get the drivability to where I wanted it because it kept stalling, and hard starting.
NOW i am switching to a JDM 6 speed ecu from a supra, and I need to know what the differences in wiring would be for me since I am already wired for a USDM Ecu with the exception of I am now running a map and IAT sensor and no MAF. The car is a 1997 so I already have the 4 wire O2.
NOW i am switching to a JDM 6 speed ecu from a supra, and I need to know what the differences in wiring would be for me since I am already wired for a USDM Ecu with the exception of I am now running a map and IAT sensor and no MAF. The car is a 1997 so I already have the 4 wire O2.
#2822
I bought 440s with new ev1 clips so I am covered there. I remember a part where 1 pin needed to be moved for obd1 guys using jdm ecus but not for obd2 guys using an obd2 ecu. Maybe Ill just plug it in and see what happens?
#2823
And I also already swapped to an obd1 lower runner. For anyone trying to use the obd2 lower runner, just swap it out. It takes an hour and a half, if youre decently mechanically inclined. I pulled my injectors out just yesterday and that only took 15 minutes, and thats basically most of the work. Its worth the peace of mind knowing you have the correct seat for the injectors. You can get a lower mani for like $30 on here or the SC300 facebook pages.
#2824
Ali needs to confirm this but I believe you need to move the PIN for the maf to the pin for the map. I want to say it's pin 62? I had asked him what was involved to switch to a USDM GTE ecu to have a stock 550cc map and he said everything was the same other than the wiring for the map sensor had to be switched over to the maf.
#2825
I'm wondering if the location of the air assist (yellow blocks) has an impact on my injectors. The VVTI 2jz has the hose after the butterfly, where the non-VVTI has it off of the IACV. Also my injectors came flow tested without any air assist I would assume, so why can't the car run & drive without the assist?
I would think the VVTI style is better being after the butterfly. It's almost like the air assist on the non-vvti would only cause problems because it bypasses the throttle plate.
Thoughts anyone?
I'll have to double check but I don't think the non vvti has injection air assist I believe the line you boxed is a coolant line, again I'll have to double check on my stock car.
Last edited by Reyke; 10-06-15 at 06:09 AM.
#2826
I'm wondering if the location of the air assist (yellow blocks) has an impact on my injectors. The VVTI 2jz has the hose after the butterfly, where the non-VVTI has it off of the IACV. Also my injectors came flow tested without any air assist I would assume, so why can't the car run & drive without the assist?
I would think the VVTI style is better being after the butterfly. It's almost like the air assist on the non-vvti would only cause problems because it bypasses the throttle plate.
Thoughts anyone?
that actually sounds like the right way maybe it just needed to learn.
I would recommend obd1 lower runners and throttle body, or remove and block-off hose on yours and then tune from there. it could be the air assist is leaning it out some.
bypass and then watch afr's with the o2 disconnected, if its richer that is a good sign.
the gte doesn't have that stuff so yeah it could have an affect on the tune.
the map should run rich and the o2 is supposed to be leaning it out
So, As many of you have read, I did the OBD2 tt ecu mod a while ago, and it worked okay after a lot of work. My only real issue was that my BOV was non recirculating and it would stall after big pulls, and it ran a little rich in boost. I then went standalone on a v2 and my tuner couldnt get the drivability to where I wanted it because it kept stalling, and hard starting.
NOW i am switching to a JDM 6 speed ecu from a supra, and I need to know what the differences in wiring would be for me since I am already wired for a USDM Ecu with the exception of I am now running a map and IAT sensor and no MAF. The car is a 1997 so I already have the 4 wire O2.
NOW i am switching to a JDM 6 speed ecu from a supra, and I need to know what the differences in wiring would be for me since I am already wired for a USDM Ecu with the exception of I am now running a map and IAT sensor and no MAF. The car is a 1997 so I already have the 4 wire O2.
just disconnect the maf and will be good to go. you will need to add an air temp sensor if you want to remove the maf completely (or use resistor to lock in running temp) cause the maf's have those built in. you probably had one installed for the aem and the maf removed already. you can also leave the maf plugged in for the air temp but thats not very good for airflow.
build is looking good. the line he boxed is the 92-95 California emissions style air assist hose that got adopted later for all 96-97 models Cali and federal. its not the coolant hose.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 10-07-15 at 03:23 PM.
#2827
With the air assist disconnected and capped it can't drive with or without the 02 hooked up.
I literally had to stop and pull over to plug the 02 in it was so lean without it, but after I plugged it in it did essentially the same thing so I did alot of coasting in neutral because that was the only way it would stay rich/normal.
I think the IACV can handle being blocked off so I think I can get away with leaving that and trying new injectors & the obd1 runner. I think this is my best option moving forward unfortunately.
I literally had to stop and pull over to plug the 02 in it was so lean without it, but after I plugged it in it did essentially the same thing so I did alot of coasting in neutral because that was the only way it would stay rich/normal.
I think the IACV can handle being blocked off so I think I can get away with leaving that and trying new injectors & the obd1 runner. I think this is my best option moving forward unfortunately.
#2830
I used a stethoscope and can hear all 6 injectors ticking, pulled a couple spark plugs and they were black. Idle was at around 650rpm. Have not set timing yet as I did not want to let it run long enough to get up to operating temp.
#2831
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (3)
The car would of probably shut off before it got up to running temp. I'm having the same issue. I swap to an OBD1 lower runner and now it runs pig rich. I wonder if anyone has swap to a lower OBD 1 lower runner with good drivability. It may have to do with that air assist hose.
#2833
I unplugged the map while it was running, and there was a big change is how it runs, did the same with the tps, and it didnt change much. Also pulled the vacuum hose off of the map and the car just about stalled. I let the engine warm up, and I checked the timing and it was at about 6* which isnt too far off and shouldnt make it run like this right? You guys think my injectors are flowing more than they were advertised?
After a few mins of idling the AF went up to 10.8, and it will go up to 11.5 if the ac is on. Unburnt fuel is cleaning out my exhaust pipe and leaving black spray marks all over my driveway. Lol
After a few mins of idling the AF went up to 10.8, and it will go up to 11.5 if the ac is on. Unburnt fuel is cleaning out my exhaust pipe and leaving black spray marks all over my driveway. Lol
#2834
Basically if there are zero wiring differences between USDM and JDM, I think either the ecu is bad, or the ebay injectors I bought are trash. Anyone willing to have me ship my ecu to them and test it on their working tt ecu set up? Ill pay for shipping obviously.