2JZGE Na-T TT Ecu Mod
09-02-15, 01:25 PM
#2748
the following is not related to the tt ecu mod in any way, but toyota cylinder heads are all so similar I'll show you guys what I found waiting for me last weekend.
Looks like one of my GX's is going to test how well I can swap cylinder heads.
Wifes gx470 started misfiring on 8, tried all the normal stuff and found 0 compression on cylinder 8
I just did a timing belt job on it and was upset that I might have cause it, but found out it was unrelated, timing is still 100% dead on, no sheared cam pins..etc..
pulled off the intake manifold... not sure why everyone complains about the starter so much, its in a terrible spot yeah but it only took me like 2 hours to remove the intake manifold and I was going pretty slow, did drop a 12mm socket into the V of the engine which I later recovered, but yeah not as bad as I thought it would be.
and then the cylinder 8 intake valves, can you tell which one has an issue lol.
this one looks okayish..
this one does not...
still trying to figure out what the mystery metal is, I am guessing its the valve stem seat that broke off, possibly from an old repair job that I am not aware of even. I'll know for certain once I pull the head but thinking I need a replacement cylinder head by the looks of it. Fun stuff but soon I can say I've done the heads on a 2uz. Valve doesn't look bent and was never out of time so I don't think it was the pistons fault.
Kinda makes me more interested in building a spare 2uz now that I have worked on one its not as bad as everyone says it is. I have the non vvti and its actually a pretty simple motor setup except for that stupid crank sensor wire if you don't put it behind the fan bracket when reinstalling the timing belt the accessory belt will eat up the wires, ask me how i know.. lol
Looks like one of my GX's is going to test how well I can swap cylinder heads.
Wifes gx470 started misfiring on 8, tried all the normal stuff and found 0 compression on cylinder 8
I just did a timing belt job on it and was upset that I might have cause it, but found out it was unrelated, timing is still 100% dead on, no sheared cam pins..etc..
pulled off the intake manifold... not sure why everyone complains about the starter so much, its in a terrible spot yeah but it only took me like 2 hours to remove the intake manifold and I was going pretty slow, did drop a 12mm socket into the V of the engine which I later recovered, but yeah not as bad as I thought it would be.
and then the cylinder 8 intake valves, can you tell which one has an issue lol.
this one looks okayish..
this one does not...
still trying to figure out what the mystery metal is, I am guessing its the valve stem seat that broke off, possibly from an old repair job that I am not aware of even. I'll know for certain once I pull the head but thinking I need a replacement cylinder head by the looks of it. Fun stuff but soon I can say I've done the heads on a 2uz. Valve doesn't look bent and was never out of time so I don't think it was the pistons fault.
Kinda makes me more interested in building a spare 2uz now that I have worked on one its not as bad as everyone says it is. I have the non vvti and its actually a pretty simple motor setup except for that stupid crank sensor wire if you don't put it behind the fan bracket when reinstalling the timing belt the accessory belt will eat up the wires, ask me how i know.. lol
09-02-15, 02:01 PM
#2750
I know I have never seen anything like it, its still round too not even crushed. I was debating pulling it out and seeing it the compression comes back up, but at this point figure just dive in and pull it all off.
Im just glad removing the intake went smoothly, starter is no 30 minute 2jz job but not too crazy if you can turn a wrench. somehow I pulled the whole intake manifold, didn't even have to separate it. My brother told me to go ahead and change the starter contacts even though I don't have a starter issue, probably good advice will have to stop by toyota and grab them.
Im just glad removing the intake went smoothly, starter is no 30 minute 2jz job but not too crazy if you can turn a wrench. somehow I pulled the whole intake manifold, didn't even have to separate it. My brother told me to go ahead and change the starter contacts even though I don't have a starter issue, probably good advice will have to stop by toyota and grab them.
09-12-15, 02:25 PM
#2751
I'm pretty sure I have everything wired correctly, thanks to this thread and all the illustrations.
Here's the deal... Car starts just fine, idles, sputters then shuts off. All in about 40 seconds. Sometimes it'll shut off after 2 minutes.
95 5 speed
No cel
DS62 igniter
tt map sensor
AEM iat
Aristo ECU
Hopefully doing the 12v fuel does the trick, if not it may be the ECU. Any help/suggestions will be appreciated.
Here's the deal... Car starts just fine, idles, sputters then shuts off. All in about 40 seconds. Sometimes it'll shut off after 2 minutes.
95 5 speed
No cel
DS62 igniter
tt map sensor
AEM iat
Aristo ECU
Hopefully doing the 12v fuel does the trick, if not it may be the ECU. Any help/suggestions will be appreciated.
Last edited by joe diego; 09-12-15 at 03:22 PM.
09-12-15, 05:10 PM
#2752
could be an ecu issue as the sputtering could be shutting down from overfueling or even under fueling, do you have a wideband to see what the fuel afr is reading at? kinda sounds similar to a coolant temp sensor issue but I assume that was working before so likely rule that out.
you didn't list 440cc injectors so i have to ask, did you upgrade the injectors. the car will do what you are saying if you have the stock 330cc injectors in, you need 440cc injectors. this is the underfueling situation on cold start it injects much more fuel than normal, so 330cc will get it started but as soon as it pulls the fuel via the coolant sensor 330cc is not even close to enough to keep it running.
on the other hand if you did upgrade to 440cc, a cold motor will tolerate a very rich mixture, but as soon as it warms up some it wont be able to ignite anymore if the fuel is not pulled out, thats where a faulty ecu caps come in or even a faulty fuel injector, sometimes a new batch of injectors will have a bad one in the mix. faulty ecu caps tend to cause overfueling as well so it could be either really but if it was a bad injector you would likely have a hard time starting it again after it shuts off (even giving it time to cool down). let me know if you have any wideband readings to confirm and also if you changed the injectors and with what kind.
you didn't list 440cc injectors so i have to ask, did you upgrade the injectors. the car will do what you are saying if you have the stock 330cc injectors in, you need 440cc injectors. this is the underfueling situation on cold start it injects much more fuel than normal, so 330cc will get it started but as soon as it pulls the fuel via the coolant sensor 330cc is not even close to enough to keep it running.
on the other hand if you did upgrade to 440cc, a cold motor will tolerate a very rich mixture, but as soon as it warms up some it wont be able to ignite anymore if the fuel is not pulled out, thats where a faulty ecu caps come in or even a faulty fuel injector, sometimes a new batch of injectors will have a bad one in the mix. faulty ecu caps tend to cause overfueling as well so it could be either really but if it was a bad injector you would likely have a hard time starting it again after it shuts off (even giving it time to cool down). let me know if you have any wideband readings to confirm and also if you changed the injectors and with what kind.
09-12-15, 05:19 PM
#2753
The injectors have been upgraded to 440cc. I have a wideband and I'm installing it now, but I'm trying to figure out which bung to put the sensor in. I attempted to start the car before I added the 440cc injectors and it did the same thing (sputter... Shuts off).
09-13-15, 11:37 AM
#2755
I'm assuming you are getting some kind of code for this shut down? I went over the bung thing with ali before, I have the main 02 on the closest bung and the wideband on the bung that on the lower section of the down pipe.
09-14-15, 04:49 PM
#2758
not really sure without the wideband but if you are positive its not wiring then i would check ecu caps, map sensor (voltage check), and then injectors.
let me know what the afr is later, and also is it smooth while its idling and what rpm is it idling on? sound like its running on all 6?
throw some new plugs cap and rotor on there also if it hasn't been done. the iridium are very resistant to fouling NGK BKR6EIX.
let me know what the afr is later, and also is it smooth while its idling and what rpm is it idling on? sound like its running on all 6?
throw some new plugs cap and rotor on there also if it hasn't been done. the iridium are very resistant to fouling NGK BKR6EIX.
09-15-15, 02:35 PM
#2760
So I took the car out for the first time since the coils and painting the whole car so its been a while. Was pretty disappointed to see still when I hit the higher rev range and higher boost the ecu is dumping fuel so that I'm losing massive amounts of power and seeing a solid 10.0.
It seems as though the coil install didn't do much to solve this particular problem. At least now that the car is whole I can start tinkering again. I did blow off the vacuum hose on the intake butterfly on the way home but is easily fixed.
I think next on the list is capping off that vacuum assist on the iacv and turning the idle up via the screw/tps. Also I need to recheck the timing but I really wish I had something to reference as far as timing at WOT.
Also here is the most recent picture of the car together.
It seems as though the coil install didn't do much to solve this particular problem. At least now that the car is whole I can start tinkering again. I did blow off the vacuum hose on the intake butterfly on the way home but is easily fixed.
I think next on the list is capping off that vacuum assist on the iacv and turning the idle up via the screw/tps. Also I need to recheck the timing but I really wish I had something to reference as far as timing at WOT.
Also here is the most recent picture of the car together.