2JZGE Na-T TT Ecu Mod
07-21-15, 11:00 AM
#2687
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: glasgow
Posts: 4
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Thanks for the feedback Ali, it's much appreciated!
Thanks for explaining the ds62 / GTE coils issue, hopefully others learn from my mistake. Also, the FFIM has been welded together so I don't have any concerns there. Wouldn't mind something similar to your set up in the future though, I guess I'll cross that bridge when I come to it!
I'll keep you posted with results of Emanage fitting / mapping once the snow goes away!
Thanks for explaining the ds62 / GTE coils issue, hopefully others learn from my mistake. Also, the FFIM has been welded together so I don't have any concerns there. Wouldn't mind something similar to your set up in the future though, I guess I'll cross that bridge when I come to it!
I'll keep you posted with results of Emanage fitting / mapping once the snow goes away!
At 0.8 bar, the car made 321hp and 303ft/lbs at the wheels, which is about as far as I'm comfortable pushing my W58. I've put around 1200 miles on the car since it was mapped and I'm really pleased with how the car behaves. Power delivery is incredible and pulls like a train through all the gears. No issues with the TT ECU mod and seems to be working well alongside the Emanage Ultimate.
Thanks again for all the info Ali etc...
07-21-15, 12:48 PM
#2688
Thanks for reporting back with the numbers. setup looks great and 321 at the wheels on 11-12 psi is pretty good.
you can probably take it up to 12-14 psi whatever is right before your boost cut, I think its settable on the emanage. I find the w58 can handle the power fine once in gear, but its the shifts and sudden unloading of the power into the next gear that usually destroys them. hence I run 16 psi on mine all the time, but between gears I give it that extra second for the power to come down some, make sure its in gear, and then start boosting in the next gear.
I do pretty much the exact opposite of "slamming gears".
you can probably take it up to 12-14 psi whatever is right before your boost cut, I think its settable on the emanage. I find the w58 can handle the power fine once in gear, but its the shifts and sudden unloading of the power into the next gear that usually destroys them. hence I run 16 psi on mine all the time, but between gears I give it that extra second for the power to come down some, make sure its in gear, and then start boosting in the next gear.
I do pretty much the exact opposite of "slamming gears".
07-21-15, 12:56 PM
#2689
Thanks for reporting back with the numbers. setup looks great and 321 at the wheels on 11-12 psi is pretty good.
you can probably take it up to 12-14 psi whatever is right before your boost cut, I think its settable on the emanage. I find the w58 can handle the power fine once in gear, but its the shifts and sudden unloading of the power into the next gear that usually destroys them. hence I run 16 psi on mine all the time, but between gears I give it that extra second for the power to come down some, make sure its in gear, and then start boosting in the next gear.
I do pretty much the exact opposite of "slamming gears".
you can probably take it up to 12-14 psi whatever is right before your boost cut, I think its settable on the emanage. I find the w58 can handle the power fine once in gear, but its the shifts and sudden unloading of the power into the next gear that usually destroys them. hence I run 16 psi on mine all the time, but between gears I give it that extra second for the power to come down some, make sure its in gear, and then start boosting in the next gear.
I do pretty much the exact opposite of "slamming gears".
07-22-15, 10:04 AM
#2690
power wise, lets just say its alot more than stock =)
time is a rare comodity for me these days, literally have no time to find or use a dyno and I also recently sprang an oil leak after I had eliminated all of them in the spring. I am hoping its not the rear main seal but have had no time to investigate. dyno and tracks do not like leaking oil, and neither does my garage floor for that matter but it is heavily frowned upon.
at this elevation my dyno wouldn't be all that impressive either, but I will def get one eventually.
time is a rare comodity for me these days, literally have no time to find or use a dyno and I also recently sprang an oil leak after I had eliminated all of them in the spring. I am hoping its not the rear main seal but have had no time to investigate. dyno and tracks do not like leaking oil, and neither does my garage floor for that matter but it is heavily frowned upon.
at this elevation my dyno wouldn't be all that impressive either, but I will def get one eventually.
07-22-15, 08:29 PM
#2691
power wise, lets just say its alot more than stock =)
time is a rare comodity for me these days, literally have no time to find or use a dyno and I also recently sprang an oil leak after I had eliminated all of them in the spring. I am hoping its not the rear main seal but have had no time to investigate. dyno and tracks do not like leaking oil, and neither does my garage floor for that matter but it is heavily frowned upon.
at this elevation my dyno wouldn't be all that impressive either, but I will def get one eventually.
time is a rare comodity for me these days, literally have no time to find or use a dyno and I also recently sprang an oil leak after I had eliminated all of them in the spring. I am hoping its not the rear main seal but have had no time to investigate. dyno and tracks do not like leaking oil, and neither does my garage floor for that matter but it is heavily frowned upon.
at this elevation my dyno wouldn't be all that impressive either, but I will def get one eventually.
How should boost cut be addressed on my setup? I will only be using an SAFC neo and the TT ECU at first.
07-23-15, 07:53 AM
#2692
Would a boost cut controller help? What kind?
What can I expect from my system?
TT ECU Mod
SAFC Neo
Comp 67mm turbo
Tial MVR 44mm wastegate
Tial Q 50mm bov
Deatschwerks 550cc
Aeromotive AFPR Kit 13109
Greddy Electronic Boost Controller
Mishimoto Radiator MMRAD-SUP-93T
R154
How much boost? How much HP?
Any other suggestions, or does this sound like a good, powerful, reliable system?
What can I expect from my system?
TT ECU Mod
SAFC Neo
Comp 67mm turbo
Tial MVR 44mm wastegate
Tial Q 50mm bov
Deatschwerks 550cc
Aeromotive AFPR Kit 13109
Greddy Electronic Boost Controller
Mishimoto Radiator MMRAD-SUP-93T
R154
How much boost? How much HP?
Any other suggestions, or does this sound like a good, powerful, reliable system?
Last edited by Studiogeek; 07-23-15 at 08:47 AM.
07-24-15, 10:52 AM
#2694
Would a boost cut controller help? What kind?
What can I expect from my system?
TT ECU Mod
SAFC Neo
Comp 67mm turbo
Tial MVR 44mm wastegate
Tial Q 50mm bov
Deatschwerks 550cc
Aeromotive AFPR Kit 13109
Greddy Electronic Boost Controller
Mishimoto Radiator MMRAD-SUP-93T
R154
How much boost? How much HP?
Any other suggestions, or does this sound like a good, powerful, reliable system?
What can I expect from my system?
TT ECU Mod
SAFC Neo
Comp 67mm turbo
Tial MVR 44mm wastegate
Tial Q 50mm bov
Deatschwerks 550cc
Aeromotive AFPR Kit 13109
Greddy Electronic Boost Controller
Mishimoto Radiator MMRAD-SUP-93T
R154
How much boost? How much HP?
Any other suggestions, or does this sound like a good, powerful, reliable system?
you would install that and literally be setting it at the stock settings, so its just a large cost for no gain and possible leaks that can burn your car down. when you do the fuel rail and 1000cc+ injectors and larger fuel lines, yeah then slap on a AFPR. some people just want one for bling and if so then itll work fine but just note that you could entirely leave that out and it would run the same.
Im using the stock radiator still with no cooling issues, but the aluminum ones are a nice upgrade the stock ones will eventually crack and fail on the plastic tank on the top.
how much boost are you going to run. stock boost cut is around 15-16 psi.
when you use a safc to compensate for larger injectors, it actually raises the boost cut some more. I would leave it and just set your boost to right under that and get used to it like that, especially on a new setup I do not bypass boost cut with a greddy boost cut controller, cause when still ironing out the issues you want a safety net of the boost cut in case you overboost which happens for different reasons.
the Greddy boost cut controller will eliminate boost cut entirely, so lets say your line pops off your wastegate at 14 psi, well you could be over 20-25 psi and blowing the headgasket in a matter of a few seconds if you are in 3rd or 4th gear. you will not be able to lift your foot off fast enough generally speaking unless you somehow have the reflexes similar to that of an adrenaline pumped cheetah.
I would rock it under the factory boost cut which should go up a few psi due to the safc pulling fuel (it lowering map voltage by a certain % and since boost cut always happens at 4.xx volts you can see the more % you lower it, the more boost you can run before reaching that voltage).
once you are confident your system holds boost steady and reliable, then maybe put the boost cut controller on. I use the map ecu so I just set all the cells to less than 4.xx volts where I want to boost and over that where I want it to cut, but on the safc you are working with % so its not that simple for boost cut, but the safc is much much simpler for getting the larger injectors to work right at first.
If I were to setup that car for you, I would put the 550's on there with a safc, stock fuel pressure regulator, setup the safc to pull fuel (members say its around -20% for 550's as a rough starting point), then after verifying the right air fuel ratios after safc adjustment, I would then test out the boost off the wastegate spring (mine is like 9-10 psi), make sure that is all good.
once I have it there I would throw on the manual boost controller, and start cranking it up. I would see at what psi boost cut hits with those settings, and then I would dial the boost controller back like 2-3 psi from boost cut and leave it there.
doing this basically will double your stock power and give you a chance to get accustomed to that new snail sitting under your hood.
I would drive around like this until it goes from seat of the pants exciting to that amount of boost feeling like a tickle.
Then I would isntall the boost cut controller and crank it further noting you no longer have a safety net if you overboost, or switch to something that will let you set the factory boost cut higher like the map ecu v1-v3. the emanage ultimate might even have that feature as well but I haven't used one.
some guys report just pulling even more % on the top ranges of the safc to increase boost cut, but that also pulls fuel so I am not sure how exactly they do that but I figured it is not the right way to approach it, I would start with 15-16 psi and leave boost cut there. my first na-t setup I drove at 11 psi for probably a year at least, it was still very fun.
looks like an obd1 to me but that bottom o-ring seems a little thick, but if it fits should be ok. what car is it from or what style is it?
Last edited by Ali SC3; 07-24-15 at 11:00 AM.
07-24-15, 03:16 PM
#2696
all of that stuff looks good except you do not need an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator.
you would install that and literally be setting it at the stock settings, so its just a large cost for no gain and possible leaks that can burn your car down. when you do the fuel rail and 1000cc+ injectors and larger fuel lines, yeah then slap on a AFPR. some people just want one for bling and if so then itll work fine but just note that you could entirely leave that out and it would run the same.
Im using the stock radiator still with no cooling issues, but the aluminum ones are a nice upgrade the stock ones will eventually crack and fail on the plastic tank on the top.
how much boost are you going to run. stock boost cut is around 15-16 psi.
when you use a safc to compensate for larger injectors, it actually raises the boost cut some more. I would leave it and just set your boost to right under that and get used to it like that, especially on a new setup I do not bypass boost cut with a greddy boost cut controller, cause when still ironing out the issues you want a safety net of the boost cut in case you overboost which happens for different reasons.
the Greddy boost cut controller will eliminate boost cut entirely, so lets say your line pops off your wastegate at 14 psi, well you could be over 20-25 psi and blowing the headgasket in a matter of a few seconds if you are in 3rd or 4th gear. you will not be able to lift your foot off fast enough generally speaking unless you somehow have the reflexes similar to that of an adrenaline pumped cheetah.
I would rock it under the factory boost cut which should go up a few psi due to the safc pulling fuel (it lowering map voltage by a certain % and since boost cut always happens at 4.xx volts you can see the more % you lower it, the more boost you can run before reaching that voltage).
once you are confident your system holds boost steady and reliable, then maybe put the boost cut controller on. I use the map ecu so I just set all the cells to less than 4.xx volts where I want to boost and over that where I want it to cut, but on the safc you are working with % so its not that simple for boost cut, but the safc is much much simpler for getting the larger injectors to work right at first.
If I were to setup that car for you, I would put the 550's on there with a safc, stock fuel pressure regulator, setup the safc to pull fuel (members say its around -20% for 550's as a rough starting point), then after verifying the right air fuel ratios after safc adjustment, I would then test out the boost off the wastegate spring (mine is like 9-10 psi), make sure that is all good.
once I have it there I would throw on the manual boost controller, and start cranking it up. I would see at what psi boost cut hits with those settings, and then I would dial the boost controller back like 2-3 psi from boost cut and leave it there.
doing this basically will double your stock power and give you a chance to get accustomed to that new snail sitting under your hood.
I would drive around like this until it goes from seat of the pants exciting to that amount of boost feeling like a tickle.
Then I would isntall the boost cut controller and crank it further noting you no longer have a safety net if you overboost, or switch to something that will let you set the factory boost cut higher like the map ecu v1-v3. the emanage ultimate might even have that feature as well but I haven't used one.
some guys report just pulling even more % on the top ranges of the safc to increase boost cut, but that also pulls fuel so I am not sure how exactly they do that but I figured it is not the right way to approach it, I would start with 15-16 psi and leave boost cut there. my first na-t setup I drove at 11 psi for probably a year at least, it was still very fun.
looks like an obd1 to me but that bottom o-ring seems a little thick, but if it fits should be ok. what car is it from or what style is it?
you would install that and literally be setting it at the stock settings, so its just a large cost for no gain and possible leaks that can burn your car down. when you do the fuel rail and 1000cc+ injectors and larger fuel lines, yeah then slap on a AFPR. some people just want one for bling and if so then itll work fine but just note that you could entirely leave that out and it would run the same.
Im using the stock radiator still with no cooling issues, but the aluminum ones are a nice upgrade the stock ones will eventually crack and fail on the plastic tank on the top.
how much boost are you going to run. stock boost cut is around 15-16 psi.
when you use a safc to compensate for larger injectors, it actually raises the boost cut some more. I would leave it and just set your boost to right under that and get used to it like that, especially on a new setup I do not bypass boost cut with a greddy boost cut controller, cause when still ironing out the issues you want a safety net of the boost cut in case you overboost which happens for different reasons.
the Greddy boost cut controller will eliminate boost cut entirely, so lets say your line pops off your wastegate at 14 psi, well you could be over 20-25 psi and blowing the headgasket in a matter of a few seconds if you are in 3rd or 4th gear. you will not be able to lift your foot off fast enough generally speaking unless you somehow have the reflexes similar to that of an adrenaline pumped cheetah.
I would rock it under the factory boost cut which should go up a few psi due to the safc pulling fuel (it lowering map voltage by a certain % and since boost cut always happens at 4.xx volts you can see the more % you lower it, the more boost you can run before reaching that voltage).
once you are confident your system holds boost steady and reliable, then maybe put the boost cut controller on. I use the map ecu so I just set all the cells to less than 4.xx volts where I want to boost and over that where I want it to cut, but on the safc you are working with % so its not that simple for boost cut, but the safc is much much simpler for getting the larger injectors to work right at first.
If I were to setup that car for you, I would put the 550's on there with a safc, stock fuel pressure regulator, setup the safc to pull fuel (members say its around -20% for 550's as a rough starting point), then after verifying the right air fuel ratios after safc adjustment, I would then test out the boost off the wastegate spring (mine is like 9-10 psi), make sure that is all good.
once I have it there I would throw on the manual boost controller, and start cranking it up. I would see at what psi boost cut hits with those settings, and then I would dial the boost controller back like 2-3 psi from boost cut and leave it there.
doing this basically will double your stock power and give you a chance to get accustomed to that new snail sitting under your hood.
I would drive around like this until it goes from seat of the pants exciting to that amount of boost feeling like a tickle.
Then I would isntall the boost cut controller and crank it further noting you no longer have a safety net if you overboost, or switch to something that will let you set the factory boost cut higher like the map ecu v1-v3. the emanage ultimate might even have that feature as well but I haven't used one.
some guys report just pulling even more % on the top ranges of the safc to increase boost cut, but that also pulls fuel so I am not sure how exactly they do that but I figured it is not the right way to approach it, I would start with 15-16 psi and leave boost cut there. my first na-t setup I drove at 11 psi for probably a year at least, it was still very fun.
looks like an obd1 to me but that bottom o-ring seems a little thick, but if it fits should be ok. what car is it from or what style is it?
Can't thank you enough man.......... seriously!
That feels like zillion dollar advice. It all rings true even to my inexperienced ear. That sounds similar to what I heard a month ago but I said "CRANK it up while it's up there with you. I'm not sure how soon I can get it back up there". I don't remember exactly what, but the FPR was added after I asked for something. Maybe it was my previous, unnecessary power goals. The TT ECU mod has also changed our direction significantly. I was going to go piggyback for a short time, then go AEM. The TT Mod will cover my needs. Especially when I add the MAP ECU3.
The radiator was due for replacement anyway (rust) so this should last a bit longer then the plastic.
The idea of leaving the stock boost cut as headroom and taking time to understand my snail is really good advice. I have quite a lot to learn. I need as many failsafes as are available to me.
Thanks again man!
SG
Last edited by Studiogeek; 07-24-15 at 04:41 PM.
07-25-15, 10:46 AM
#2697
Got my coils wired in and started up today. The car runs well at idle right now, there has been a noticeable change in my afr at idle (A good change). Unfortunately the misfire issue is still around in some form, I still need to do more troubleshooting.
Some positive notes on the coil install, it was pretty simple since I already had the distributor set-up going. Cleans up the engine bay pretty nicely so you can see more snail. Overall it was worth it even though I still have to keep chasing the misfires.
I plan on experimenting with the air-assist delete and idle screw to see if there is any happy medium in there. My idle was still high around 1200 dead cold and only went down to 1000 after about 5-10 minutes. I'll have to report back on the road performance later. The car is getting prepped for paint all next week so I'll be putting in alot of time on that. I'll take a picture of the bay once I clean up the wiring and get my distributor cover finalized.
Some positive notes on the coil install, it was pretty simple since I already had the distributor set-up going. Cleans up the engine bay pretty nicely so you can see more snail. Overall it was worth it even though I still have to keep chasing the misfires.
I plan on experimenting with the air-assist delete and idle screw to see if there is any happy medium in there. My idle was still high around 1200 dead cold and only went down to 1000 after about 5-10 minutes. I'll have to report back on the road performance later. The car is getting prepped for paint all next week so I'll be putting in alot of time on that. I'll take a picture of the bay once I clean up the wiring and get my distributor cover finalized.
07-26-15, 11:59 PM
#2698
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: NZ
Posts: 9
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Hi guys
Still ZERO luck with this forsaken car. Havent touched it for a bit cos i needed clear my head, so i have a fresh mind to work with..
So far i have gone over everything and am 100001% sure there is no wires crossed up or in the wrong place.
I have still got my IGF wire hardwired
I have now hardwired my coil signal wire from the igniter to the coil packs, to eliminate my coil loom.
Only thing that i have got left that is not hardwired is the IGT wires from the ECU, but 2 of them are new already.
Also I certainly did un-tie the 5 wires on the factory IGT wire, and paired them off as instructed.
NOW i took voltage readings off all my wires on every wire on the Igniter and coil packs. This is with key on and engine off (obviously)
And here is the voltages i got with igniter plug plugged in, key on..
C1....0V
B+....12V
TAC....0V
T1....0V
T2....0V
T3....0V
IGF....5V
GND....-0V
C3....0V
C2....0V
Its not making ANY sense.
NOW with the igniter unplugged i took readings from the plug, key on.
C1....0V
B+.....12V
TAC....0V
T1....0V
T2....0V
T3....0V
IGF....5V
GND....-0V
C3....0V
C2....0V
And the readings at the coils themselves are...
C1...B+12V SIG.0V
C3...B+12V SIG.0V
C2...B+12V SIG.0V
There was 9V on coil 3 signal wire that was eliminated with the hardwire.
Im extremely confused and getting extremely frustrated.
Absolutely messed up right now.
FYI I am not a rookie at working on vehicles, i am a mechanic by trade, so i have a fair idea of what im doing, and such, but I am now at the end of my knowledge.
The plugs may be fouled once again, so it maybe that now. but i cant be bothered removing them right now for the 10th time.. But will let you guys know if i get it running.
Well i hope you guys can help me with all this info.
Still ZERO luck with this forsaken car. Havent touched it for a bit cos i needed clear my head, so i have a fresh mind to work with..
So far i have gone over everything and am 100001% sure there is no wires crossed up or in the wrong place.
I have still got my IGF wire hardwired
I have now hardwired my coil signal wire from the igniter to the coil packs, to eliminate my coil loom.
Only thing that i have got left that is not hardwired is the IGT wires from the ECU, but 2 of them are new already.
Also I certainly did un-tie the 5 wires on the factory IGT wire, and paired them off as instructed.
NOW i took voltage readings off all my wires on every wire on the Igniter and coil packs. This is with key on and engine off (obviously)
And here is the voltages i got with igniter plug plugged in, key on..
C1....0V
B+....12V
TAC....0V
T1....0V
T2....0V
T3....0V
IGF....5V
GND....-0V
C3....0V
C2....0V
Its not making ANY sense.
NOW with the igniter unplugged i took readings from the plug, key on.
C1....0V
B+.....12V
TAC....0V
T1....0V
T2....0V
T3....0V
IGF....5V
GND....-0V
C3....0V
C2....0V
And the readings at the coils themselves are...
C1...B+12V SIG.0V
C3...B+12V SIG.0V
C2...B+12V SIG.0V
There was 9V on coil 3 signal wire that was eliminated with the hardwire.
Im extremely confused and getting extremely frustrated.
Absolutely messed up right now.
FYI I am not a rookie at working on vehicles, i am a mechanic by trade, so i have a fair idea of what im doing, and such, but I am now at the end of my knowledge.
The plugs may be fouled once again, so it maybe that now. but i cant be bothered removing them right now for the 10th time.. But will let you guys know if i get it running.
Well i hope you guys can help me with all this info.
Last edited by d1aristo; 07-27-15 at 01:01 AM. Reason: Updated info and corrected figures
07-28-15, 11:28 PM
#2699
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: NZ
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
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Aristo STILL not sparking...
Me again, (bet your sick of me already)
Well after hard wiring the igniter coil signal outputs to the coils,
and swapping the coil 3 on plug 4 to coil 1's position because i know that coil 3 was firing.
And so i tried to start it once more and nothing apart from the familiar splutter, and i felt on the header pipes it was firing on Cyl 4 once again.
ALL thats left is the IGT wires, which as stated, 2 are new already..
Please come at me with ideas..
Well after hard wiring the igniter coil signal outputs to the coils,
and swapping the coil 3 on plug 4 to coil 1's position because i know that coil 3 was firing.
And so i tried to start it once more and nothing apart from the familiar splutter, and i felt on the header pipes it was firing on Cyl 4 once again.
ALL thats left is the IGT wires, which as stated, 2 are new already..
Please come at me with ideas..
07-29-15, 10:20 AM
#2700
Got my coils wired in and started up today. The car runs well at idle right now, there has been a noticeable change in my afr at idle (A good change). Unfortunately the misfire issue is still around in some form, I still need to do more troubleshooting.
Some positive notes on the coil install, it was pretty simple since I already had the distributor set-up going. Cleans up the engine bay pretty nicely so you can see more snail. Overall it was worth it even though I still have to keep chasing the misfires.
I plan on experimenting with the air-assist delete and idle screw to see if there is any happy medium in there. My idle was still high around 1200 dead cold and only went down to 1000 after about 5-10 minutes. I'll have to report back on the road performance later. The car is getting prepped for paint all next week so I'll be putting in alot of time on that. I'll take a picture of the bay once I clean up the wiring and get my distributor cover finalized.
Some positive notes on the coil install, it was pretty simple since I already had the distributor set-up going. Cleans up the engine bay pretty nicely so you can see more snail. Overall it was worth it even though I still have to keep chasing the misfires.
I plan on experimenting with the air-assist delete and idle screw to see if there is any happy medium in there. My idle was still high around 1200 dead cold and only went down to 1000 after about 5-10 minutes. I'll have to report back on the road performance later. The car is getting prepped for paint all next week so I'll be putting in alot of time on that. I'll take a picture of the bay once I clean up the wiring and get my distributor cover finalized.
Me again, (bet your sick of me already)
Well after hard wiring the igniter coil signal outputs to the coils,
and swapping the coil 3 on plug 4 to coil 1's position because i know that coil 3 was firing.
And so i tried to start it once more and nothing apart from the familiar splutter, and i felt on the header pipes it was firing on Cyl 4 once again.
ALL thats left is the IGT wires, which as stated, 2 are new already..
Please come at me with ideas..
Well after hard wiring the igniter coil signal outputs to the coils,
and swapping the coil 3 on plug 4 to coil 1's position because i know that coil 3 was firing.
And so i tried to start it once more and nothing apart from the familiar splutter, and i felt on the header pipes it was firing on Cyl 4 once again.
ALL thats left is the IGT wires, which as stated, 2 are new already..
Please come at me with ideas..
the reason being if you were really getting a code 14 for the ignition side it would shut off fuel injection. the fact that you have had to clean the plugs 11 times tell me that the fuel side is actually injecting way too much which is the primary symptom of a bad ecu. what I think has happened is you have some blown caps which usually result in those injectors on that circuit dumping fuel as they leak on the injector portion of the board and create shorts etc... then what happens is that any spark will pretty much work to do something since there is so much fuel in the cylinder so the engine can putter along even after the code 14 where it should stop fuel injection, cause well a couple cylinders still have fuel coming anyways cause failed open on those cylinders and the ignition is limping it around.
As you have double and triple checked everything wiring wise, there is not a whole lot of wiring to the mod actually when its all said and done.
if its not any of that, the most common other things are 1) bad map sensor where the car starts and then dies right away, sometimes not even starting, or (2) bad ecu which shows almost always has some type of over fueling symptom on some of the cylinders, usually not all of them but it could be, basically has the symptoms of a failed open injector but the problem is ecu instead of a faulty injector.
summary: find a spare 2jzgte ecu, and also make sure to use a 2jzgte map sensor. the jdm 2jzge map sensor will not work.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 07-29-15 at 10:23 AM.