2JZGE Na-T TT Ecu Mod
10-01-14, 04:37 PM
#2117
Just to follow up on the obd2 thing for anyone looking at it.
As of right now the car runs and drivers, no check engine light, I have to check the afrs and boost. Took it out today boosts pretty good and idles decent. The only thing right now if that if you take it up to say 3500-4000rpm and just let off it will try and die out if you dont just give it a small rev or blip on the way down.
I'm not sure if that is because the ecu hasn't learned yet what to do or if I need to recirculate the bov (which I have everything set up to do if need be). Hopefully I can get some miles on it soon but for never having driven a turbocharged car before I would say I am very happy with how it felt today. Let me know if I can contribute in anyway to help the guide.
As of right now the car runs and drivers, no check engine light, I have to check the afrs and boost. Took it out today boosts pretty good and idles decent. The only thing right now if that if you take it up to say 3500-4000rpm and just let off it will try and die out if you dont just give it a small rev or blip on the way down.
I'm not sure if that is because the ecu hasn't learned yet what to do or if I need to recirculate the bov (which I have everything set up to do if need be). Hopefully I can get some miles on it soon but for never having driven a turbocharged car before I would say I am very happy with how it felt today. Let me know if I can contribute in anyway to help the guide.
10-01-14, 05:13 PM
#2118
Lexus Test Driver
Just to follow up on the obd2 thing for anyone looking at it.
As of right now the car runs and drivers, no check engine light, I have to check the afrs and boost. Took it out today boosts pretty good and idles decent. The only thing right now if that if you take it up to say 3500-4000rpm and just let off it will try and die out if you dont just give it a small rev or blip on the way down.
I'm not sure if that is because the ecu hasn't learned yet what to do or if I need to recirculate the bov (which I have everything set up to do if need be). Hopefully I can get some miles on it soon but for never having driven a turbocharged car before I would say I am very happy with how it felt today. Let me know if I can contribute in anyway to help the guide.
As of right now the car runs and drivers, no check engine light, I have to check the afrs and boost. Took it out today boosts pretty good and idles decent. The only thing right now if that if you take it up to say 3500-4000rpm and just let off it will try and die out if you dont just give it a small rev or blip on the way down.
I'm not sure if that is because the ecu hasn't learned yet what to do or if I need to recirculate the bov (which I have everything set up to do if need be). Hopefully I can get some miles on it soon but for never having driven a turbocharged car before I would say I am very happy with how it felt today. Let me know if I can contribute in anyway to help the guide.
My OBDII car is running worse and worse. Here is my thread if anyone wants to chime in and help: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...ecu-mod-2.html
I added some videos to it today. Will add more later.
10-02-14, 01:58 PM
#2119
i backed off the throttle adjustment screw and the rpms were stable. i noticed the screw was no longer touchibg the throttle stop so i took the screw all the way out and the rpms went up a little, kind of odd. ran fine so i let it idle 10 mins or so. heres a video of it running and me backing off the screw to drop rpms, then removing the screw and rpm goes up a little. i need to get a working tach.
heres the youtube link:
http://youtu.be/YB5uFmtwF2I
heres the youtube link:
http://youtu.be/YB5uFmtwF2I
I've been running without an IACV for the past 3 months. Having to press on the gas pedal to warm up the engine from a cold start for 2-3 minutes gets pretty annoying. As well, if I set my warm idle rpm to say 650rpm, and I blip the gas pedal, the rpm drops down to about 500-550 rpm and causes the engine to bog a bit.
Sooooo, I went to the junkers and pulled a 7MGE IACV off a MK3 Supra and machined a 3/4" thick aluminum flange to adapt a 9/16" NPT barb fitting onto the IACV. I Tee'd a 3/8" hose off the brake booster hose to the IACV.
Headache solved
It took me a full day to cut, lathe, drill, tap, and belt sand the adapter though. I still need to think of a way to secure the IACV in place.
10-02-14, 02:56 PM
#2120
In that video you are adjusting the cold idle screw on the q45 throttle body. q45's come with a cold idle adjustment and a warm idle adjustment.
the warm idle adjustment sits closer to one of the 4 bolts where you bolt on the throttle body to the intake.
the q45 has 2 idle things. one is automatic based on coolant temp see the rocker on the side moves based on temp and when its cold it will increase the idle over the regular set screw (like a manual IACV, and it will look like its hovering above the set screw, think of this as setting your cold idle) and when it warms up the rocker arm will retract and the arm will now sit on the regular set screw (not hovering above it, think of this screw as setting your warm idle). you have to look at the side of the q45 throttle body for it to make sense.
also you dont have to hook the coolant lines up, the throttle body will heat up with the engine fast enough I found.
if you have not deleted all the coolant cold idle stuff and rocker arm on the side of your q45 TB, then it will increase the idle above the set screw until it warms up, then it will sit on the set screw. how long it takes to idle down and how much air it lets in you can adjust with the stud and nut you are turning in the video. this adjustment only works while it hasn;t warmed up. IF your idle is too low when it warms up, you need to adjust the other screw.
When you don't have an IACV adjusting the coolant idle up thing can help alot with cold starts, but sometimes if the TB doesn't warm up fast enough you get a little high idle until it does when the engine warms up. it goes away, all in all I used to use it before I got the IACV installed now I ripped it out and just use the base screw.
If you have some patience and can adjust this, you wont have to have your foot on it after starting by adjusting the cold idle one, and after its warmed up choose your idle via the other screw. remember there are 2 places to adjust, one for cold idle, one for hot idle.
187, that is from the bov most likely. what kind do you have, I can help you adjust it so that the symptoms wont be as bad and you won't have to recirculate, but if you want it 100% like factory where it doesn't stumble you should recirculate. also if you have a ssqv type you can just vent it to air and it wont stall that bad. Tial you will stall every time unless you use a stiff spring or shim it with a few washers.
mylexsc400 I saw your videos in the other thread. your injectors are flowing too much fuel. they must be a little bigger than the stock ones normally are, so you are washing out the spark. just get an safc or maybe the 500-520cc injectors from oside tiger. I would just get the safc it will be more useful int he long run and keep your larger injectors. other than the washing out the spark it sounds great. wish you had posted the video before I could tell in like 3 seconds that was the problem =( ... =) at least now you know whats wrong.
the warm idle adjustment sits closer to one of the 4 bolts where you bolt on the throttle body to the intake.
the q45 has 2 idle things. one is automatic based on coolant temp see the rocker on the side moves based on temp and when its cold it will increase the idle over the regular set screw (like a manual IACV, and it will look like its hovering above the set screw, think of this as setting your cold idle) and when it warms up the rocker arm will retract and the arm will now sit on the regular set screw (not hovering above it, think of this screw as setting your warm idle). you have to look at the side of the q45 throttle body for it to make sense.
also you dont have to hook the coolant lines up, the throttle body will heat up with the engine fast enough I found.
if you have not deleted all the coolant cold idle stuff and rocker arm on the side of your q45 TB, then it will increase the idle above the set screw until it warms up, then it will sit on the set screw. how long it takes to idle down and how much air it lets in you can adjust with the stud and nut you are turning in the video. this adjustment only works while it hasn;t warmed up. IF your idle is too low when it warms up, you need to adjust the other screw.
When you don't have an IACV adjusting the coolant idle up thing can help alot with cold starts, but sometimes if the TB doesn't warm up fast enough you get a little high idle until it does when the engine warms up. it goes away, all in all I used to use it before I got the IACV installed now I ripped it out and just use the base screw.
If you have some patience and can adjust this, you wont have to have your foot on it after starting by adjusting the cold idle one, and after its warmed up choose your idle via the other screw. remember there are 2 places to adjust, one for cold idle, one for hot idle.
187, that is from the bov most likely. what kind do you have, I can help you adjust it so that the symptoms wont be as bad and you won't have to recirculate, but if you want it 100% like factory where it doesn't stumble you should recirculate. also if you have a ssqv type you can just vent it to air and it wont stall that bad. Tial you will stall every time unless you use a stiff spring or shim it with a few washers.
mylexsc400 I saw your videos in the other thread. your injectors are flowing too much fuel. they must be a little bigger than the stock ones normally are, so you are washing out the spark. just get an safc or maybe the 500-520cc injectors from oside tiger. I would just get the safc it will be more useful int he long run and keep your larger injectors. other than the washing out the spark it sounds great. wish you had posted the video before I could tell in like 3 seconds that was the problem =( ... =) at least now you know whats wrong.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 10-02-14 at 03:04 PM.
10-02-14, 06:43 PM
#2121
Driver
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Washington
Posts: 194
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
my tb doesnt have the hot idle anymore. i cut everything off the tb in a mill and welded over all the openings. i even cut off the cable wheel and welded the toyota wheel on instead, so there are no coolant or vacc ports and all the wheels/springs/set screws are gone too except the cold idle adjust. i got some pics before i painted it so i can post how much i cut this down.
if it doesnt work very well ill just add a mkiii iacv to the brake booster hose like aznexus did. my old gsx needed a lot of "idle assistance" via my foot and it didnt bother me, it had a similarly huge tb/intake combo.
if it doesnt work very well ill just add a mkiii iacv to the brake booster hose like aznexus did. my old gsx needed a lot of "idle assistance" via my foot and it didnt bother me, it had a similarly huge tb/intake combo.
10-02-14, 06:56 PM
#2122
Im currently running a ssqv style bov purposely to avoid the issue but I really need to drive it to confirm that it persists after learning. I have hose to recirculate just waiting so which I would see helping the issue.
The only real thing bothering me is that the fuel pump in running constant in the on position, so i'll try and trace that issue aswell.
The only real thing bothering me is that the fuel pump in running constant in the on position, so i'll try and trace that issue aswell.
10-02-14, 07:00 PM
#2123
Driver
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Washington
Posts: 194
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
is it a good idea to do 12v fuel mod? how about replacing capacitors inside the ecu? these ecus are old i kinda wonder if some issues could stem from internal corrosion.
10-02-14, 07:06 PM
#2124
I used the fuel pump ecu to trigger my new relay on and off so that it still only primes and runs with the car running and doesn't run constantly, so it retains that stock safety feature.
10-03-14, 05:20 AM
#2125
Rookie
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: TX
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yep that's definitely the way to go. I wired my walbro 400 through a relay - make sure to get a beefy enough one and run wire of a good gauge for the primary, with a fuse.
10-03-14, 06:21 AM
#2126
Rookie
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: TX
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ali - you could add a little bit about the tach mod to the front page, I know I saw bits and pieces talking about it through the thread but by the time I got to working on mine I had forgotten about it lol. I did a load of research and saw all sorts of different ways of doing the mod, but I ended up just adding a 100 ohm resistor to the back side of the existing resistor which was super easy. 100 ohm still offers some spike protection and is a very common value resistor to easy to source.
10-03-14, 06:32 AM
#2127
Driver
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Washington
Posts: 194
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i need to pull the back seat out and see how they wired in the walbro, i had that installed at a performance shop 10 years ago. it might be hard wired. thats how they did most of the supras there but back then i was ignorant of how any of this works so maybe not.
to make my tach work i just add a 100 ohm resistor? do i pull gauge cluster out and add it to the wire going into the tach? ide need pictures as im illiterate in regard to wiring. would be nice to have my tach back.
what watt resistor? i see many between 1/4 watt to 10 watt. looks like most are "5% tolerance".
to make my tach work i just add a 100 ohm resistor? do i pull gauge cluster out and add it to the wire going into the tach? ide need pictures as im illiterate in regard to wiring. would be nice to have my tach back.
what watt resistor? i see many between 1/4 watt to 10 watt. looks like most are "5% tolerance".
Last edited by eblick99; 10-03-14 at 06:42 AM.
10-03-14, 06:47 AM
#2128
Rookie
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: TX
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Here's one of the threads I read, it shows pictures of what you need to jump. First page part way down, there are 2 photos, the 2nd shows a jumper wire. Instead of a straight wire I used a 100ohm resistor, that is the only difference. Soldered it in the same place shown there.
http://www.supraforums.com/forum/sho...=swap+tach+fix
I can only assume the lexus tach module looks similar. I can't give you details on how best to remove the cluster though, I'm sure it's different from the Supra setup.
http://www.supraforums.com/forum/sho...=swap+tach+fix
I can only assume the lexus tach module looks similar. I can't give you details on how best to remove the cluster though, I'm sure it's different from the Supra setup.
10-03-14, 06:58 AM
#2129
gte & na-t
iTrader: (44)
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Maryland /Germantown
Posts: 5,139
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes
on
7 Posts
i need to pull the back seat out and see how they wired in the walbro, i had that installed at a performance shop 10 years ago. it might be hard wired. thats how they did most of the supras there but back then i was ignorant of how any of this works so maybe not.
to make my tach work i just add a 100 ohm resistor? do i pull gauge cluster out and add it to the wire going into the tach? ide need pictures as im illiterate in regard to wiring. would be nice to have my tach back.
to make my tach work i just add a 100 ohm resistor? do i pull gauge cluster out and add it to the wire going into the tach? ide need pictures as im illiterate in regard to wiring. would be nice to have my tach back.