and I was told it couldnt be fixed...door mechanism arm
05-09-12, 04:17 PM
#25
so i did thistoday and like many of you have stated i didnt have a welder. so what i did was use an old HID ballast bracket(lets be honest noone have ever used any i have always zip tied it) that i had laying around and drilled a hole in the exisiting arm and cut the bracket to the specs provided in this thread,being that thebracket was wider than the arm what i did was bend the edges around the arm for extra stability, i also cut out the metal pieces that go across the entire bracket so it looks similar to the op bracket , it works for now but as for how long im not sure cause i know that the alluminium bracket is weak but it took me 30 mins to do including drilling the hold and trying to find screws so im sure it it breaks again it will be an easier fix next time around. thanks to the op for this i was thinking about buying a new assembly, saved me a ton of money
11-12-12, 06:55 PM
#27
Driver School Candidate
Ive had my door panel off for a week now im going to try the wire job or the zip tie job. Im real tired of my Brother ans Cousins climbing over my driver side seat to get to the passenger side seat
11-28-13, 12:32 AM
#29
Hildi bought a complete mechanism and I checked it out.
The specs for the slotted plate are as follows:
Thickness: stock is 1/16", possibly could go as high as 3/32".
Width: stock is 1/2", could go as wide as 5/8".
Slot: stock width is 5/16", length is 1.5" to 2"
Weld rod 7/8" from beginning of slot
There does not seem to be a need to fabricate a new rod.
In most cases the stock rod survives and can be sawed off at the bend and welded (it's steel, not aluminum).
There should just enough room at the very tip of the stock rod to drill a small cotter pin hole.
That cotter pin is key- there are way too many posts about this rod popping off when relying on that flimsy plastic clip.
The diagram below shows all- you could make this thing with a hacksaw.
The specs for the slotted plate are as follows:
Thickness: stock is 1/16", possibly could go as high as 3/32".
Width: stock is 1/2", could go as wide as 5/8".
Slot: stock width is 5/16", length is 1.5" to 2"
Weld rod 7/8" from beginning of slot
There does not seem to be a need to fabricate a new rod.
In most cases the stock rod survives and can be sawed off at the bend and welded (it's steel, not aluminum).
There should just enough room at the very tip of the stock rod to drill a small cotter pin hole.
That cotter pin is key- there are way too many posts about this rod popping off when relying on that flimsy plastic clip.
The diagram below shows all- you could make this thing with a hacksaw.
Thickness - Use 1/8" max, I used 3/32" plate, ended up to be a little too thick and I had to thin it for installation...
Width - 9/16" maximum, that's how wide mine was and I just barely cleared the lock-rod...
The length I used for the slot was 1.75" and it worked perfectly.
The corners on the top should be rounded as they also interfered with lock rod when installing...
I drilled a hole for the mounting point. mostly for weld penetration, and positioned it as instructed at 7/8" for the top of the slot. This may or may not have led to a fitting issue...
When installing the assembly slide the forks in first, slide down until the slot is sitting on the pin of the lock mechanism, and with the plastic bushing installed just check the location of the rod end. It should be centered right at the hole with the slot fully seated. Mine was not on first try and the rod may have been bent before I started so I lengthened it the 1/4" I needed by adjusting the bends of the rod a little at a time. When I finally had the length I needed I double-checked the rod to make sure the forks were 90 degrees for the end that inserts into the handle. Once finally fitted it worked perfectly! I chose not to install the hair-pin as I had a hard enough time getting my big hands far enough in to insert the rod!
It also occurred to me that you could use just 1/8" rod for this repair saving a lot of cutting for those who don't have the tools to cut and shape plate...
That was my experience using this method and I am very pleased with it. Kudos to the OP, this piece I made is bulletproof!!!
The initial rod after modification...
I also diagramed the rod in case I needed it for later...
After making modifications to install it, thinned and rounded...
Again, props to the OP, a great and easy fix!
Last edited by Murco; 11-28-13 at 12:38 AM.
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Returd (02-13-17)
05-17-14, 07:57 PM
#30
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: May 2014
Location: texas
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