Should I get 92-95 SC400 or 96-97??
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Should I get 92-95 SC400 or 96-97??
I know from reading the posts that the HP figures for the 92-95 SC400 are over-rated and the 96-97 are rated correctly. I definately want to spend less than $11K. Also the less I spend, the more I have for mods. I am not really hung up on having a show car. I want a go-car.
Any advice?
Any advice?
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As far as mods go, I will not be going forced induction. I don't have any "hook-ups" to pass the smog-test. So I don't think ODBI vs ODBII makes a big differencr. But of course I am probably missing something.
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The wider tunnel is for a manual conversion??
What is the advantage of not having the car hooked to the smog computer? If your not throwing codes does it matter?
I am not familiar with CA smog rules yet because I moved here from NY less than a year ago. My wife's 04 Subaru passed easily. My 93 accord is still registered in NY since it would fail visual and sniffer.
What is the advantage of not having the car hooked to the smog computer? If your not throwing codes does it matter?
I am not familiar with CA smog rules yet because I moved here from NY less than a year ago. My wife's 04 Subaru passed easily. My 93 accord is still registered in NY since it would fail visual and sniffer.
#6
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For a go-car, get a 300.
Even with out FI, as you said you didn't want it, there are a plethora of pre-made mods availiable for the 2JZ while the parts for the 1UZ are minimal.
Also, it's being debated that the '95 cars recieved the new engine used in the 96+ cars, but still retained the crappy old manifolds that restrict lots of power. I'm not sure if anyone found this to be fact or not yet.
Even with out FI, as you said you didn't want it, there are a plethora of pre-made mods availiable for the 2JZ while the parts for the 1UZ are minimal.
Also, it's being debated that the '95 cars recieved the new engine used in the 96+ cars, but still retained the crappy old manifolds that restrict lots of power. I'm not sure if anyone found this to be fact or not yet.
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Originally Posted by bodiby
The wider tunnel is for a manual conversion??
What is the advantage of not having the car hooked to the smog computer? If your not throwing codes does it matter?
I am not familiar with CA smog rules yet because I moved here from NY less than a year ago. My wife's 04 Subaru passed easily. My 93 accord is still registered in NY since it would fail visual and sniffer.
What is the advantage of not having the car hooked to the smog computer? If your not throwing codes does it matter?
I am not familiar with CA smog rules yet because I moved here from NY less than a year ago. My wife's 04 Subaru passed easily. My 93 accord is still registered in NY since it would fail visual and sniffer.
Well.... lets just say that its better not to get hooked to up to the computer. If there is anything wrong, say a temp sensor is out, you will not pass. In my car, the check engine light is out... and one guy did not want to pass my car because it failed the "visual inspection" because the light was out, even thought it passed smog w/o problems
So I go to another guy, and tell him that my CEL is out, but the car passes. So he's like whatever, and I passed. Now if my car WAS throwing codes and the CEL out on a 96+, I would've been *****ed.
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#8
Check this site out. It explains all the differences in years.
http://www.intellexual.net/
For a quick answer tho, get a SC3 if you plan on doing a swap or if you want a manual. Get a SC4 (97+) if you want relatively good stock power with looks to match.
92-94 SC400 have about 220-230 hp at the crank. The 250hp is over-estimated.
95+ SC400 should get the stated horsepower. (260hp for 95-96, 290hp for 97+)
1992 SC300 4-speed auto 7.2 sec 15.8 sec at 89 mph
1992 SC300 5-speed manual 6.8 sec 15.4 sec at 90 mph
1993 SC400 4-speed auto 6.9 sec 15.3 sec
1995 SC400 4-speed auto 6.7 sec 15.2 sec at 93 mph
1998 SC400 5-speed auto 6.3 sec 14.7 sec at 97 mph
But then of course there are people with 1JZ swaps on their SC3, that run high 13's in the quarter "stock"... Chino comes to mind...
People have also put FI on their 1UZ motors. Emerald put TT on her SC4, and Lextreme has also done it to a LS400. But mind you, this is a very expensive process and will require a lot of custom fabrication.
You should be able to find a SC3, do a 1JZ swap (do it yourself) and still have money left over for some coilovers, exhaust, and misc. stuff that might break.
Good luck and hope this helps.
http://www.intellexual.net/
For a quick answer tho, get a SC3 if you plan on doing a swap or if you want a manual. Get a SC4 (97+) if you want relatively good stock power with looks to match.
92-94 SC400 have about 220-230 hp at the crank. The 250hp is over-estimated.
95+ SC400 should get the stated horsepower. (260hp for 95-96, 290hp for 97+)
1992 SC300 4-speed auto 7.2 sec 15.8 sec at 89 mph
1992 SC300 5-speed manual 6.8 sec 15.4 sec at 90 mph
1993 SC400 4-speed auto 6.9 sec 15.3 sec
1995 SC400 4-speed auto 6.7 sec 15.2 sec at 93 mph
1998 SC400 5-speed auto 6.3 sec 14.7 sec at 97 mph
But then of course there are people with 1JZ swaps on their SC3, that run high 13's in the quarter "stock"... Chino comes to mind...
People have also put FI on their 1UZ motors. Emerald put TT on her SC4, and Lextreme has also done it to a LS400. But mind you, this is a very expensive process and will require a lot of custom fabrication.
You should be able to find a SC3, do a 1JZ swap (do it yourself) and still have money left over for some coilovers, exhaust, and misc. stuff that might break.
Good luck and hope this helps.
Last edited by Nerpie; 05-04-06 at 01:04 PM.
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Thanks for all of your input.
@Mongoose- why an SC300? My thoughts are to start with a higher HP car (as budget allows) and then increase. If I get an SC300, wouldn't I be starting out with a disadvantage? I thought so and Nerpies post indicates that . I was not aware that the 1995 year was closer to the stated power
@0l33l - That makes sense.
@Nerpie - I have been to intellexual.net, lextreme.com and planetsoarer many times, reading up. I can't do a swap for many few reasons, which I won't bore people with. The times you posted prove what Mongoose said about the 1995 power ratings.
@Mongoose- why an SC300? My thoughts are to start with a higher HP car (as budget allows) and then increase. If I get an SC300, wouldn't I be starting out with a disadvantage? I thought so and Nerpies post indicates that . I was not aware that the 1995 year was closer to the stated power
@0l33l - That makes sense.
@Nerpie - I have been to intellexual.net, lextreme.com and planetsoarer many times, reading up. I can't do a swap for many few reasons, which I won't bore people with. The times you posted prove what Mongoose said about the 1995 power ratings.
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Originally Posted by bodiby
@Mongoose- why an SC300? My thoughts are to start with a higher HP car (as budget allows) and then increase. If I get an SC300, wouldn't I be starting out with a disadvantage? I thought so and Nerpies post indicates that . I was not aware that the 1995 year was closer to the stated power
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Originally Posted by 0l33l
I thought it was hard to tune the VVT-i motors
Forget about beginning with a higher horsepower car. That's all completely irrelevent when you're going to be modifying. It's the potential that matters.
You can buy premade exhausts, engine pieces, bolt ons, etc... for the 2JZ all day. I can find about every bolt on piece for the 1UZ in about an hour. The 1UZ is expensive to modify and when you do modify it, you often have to custom fabricate parts.
Both are good engines, but the 1UZ just hasn't been really tapped into yet for normal consumers. The 2JZ or 1JZ will blow a 1UZ away after modding.
I kick myself everytime I see a thread about 1/2JZ boost for buying a 400. I would have loved to have been able to modify as easily as those guys.