azon2111

Okay, before you go crazy posting, it's the rotors or it's this and that please read this entire post first. If it was as simple as rotors, I promise I wouldn't bother even posting at all.

2010 RX 350 NAP

Brand New and OEM where it would apply:

• Tires (Conti's LX20s)
• Brakes / Rotors (had same shake before replacing and did not improve after replacement but maybe I am dealing with a bad caliper here)
• Tie Rod Ends
• Stab Links
• Lower Control Arm Ball Joint

None of which have solved a vibration issue thus far. Strut feels solid and the corner push test had the car settle out in less than 2 bounces.

If car has sat a while the driver front (where the issue lies) feels like a imbalanced tire/bent rim (rotated the wheels just to be sure it didn't follow the wheel/tire) or like a broken belt. The tires are almost brand new and only put them on because I was trying to eliminate the point of issue.

When braking, a light touch to the brake pedal makes a almost light clank sound (like weight shift is causing the clank or perhaps a sign of a bad caliper (although pad wear looks even but didn't have rotors rechecked but even with brand new rotors it was there so I don't feel it's a warped rotor plus the vibration is there even when not applying the brakes.

There is only one control arm and the bushing didn't look cracked beyond the normal surface cracking I have seen on most rubber bushing. The upper support is from the strut so perhaps a bad strut or maybe strut support/cap/bearing?

At a total loss as the local garages cannot find anything wrong.

My thought was a bad wheel bearing, although there is not any grinding sound that you typically hear when a hub is going bad.

Could also be the CV Joint but not sure how to tell if that really issue the issue unless I replace all the other parts first (hub, caliper, strut/support/bearing).

Thoughts?

Clutchless

How many miles are on it and is it AWD or FWD? Also, what does NAP mean? Did the tire shop check for bent wheels? Have you considered getting a Hunter road force balance? I assume from your comments that the shop pulled on the wheels while in the air and the hubs appeared okay with no slop. You could just have the bad luck to have purchased and installed a new warped rotor. Did the shop check run-out on the new rotors?

teamisf

I would have guessed at first tire balance, but you might want to check if the caliper is bad and it could possibly be your ABS kicking in without you knowing it.. I hope you figure it out though, not safe to drive like that..

azon2111

Has about 140k miles and i had the tires mounted and balanced on a road master 9700 touch. Went to a special tire shop just to ensure this was done right from day one of new tires.

Interestingly, what about the fact that the problem starts off bad and gets better as more time on the road. Two, i moved the tire from front to rear on same side and it didnt follow the wheel whatsoever. If the caliper then how could it had warped so bad to cause a vibration at high speeds?

Btw, nap is north american production (canada origin) and it is AWD. Dont think they made a 2010 canadian that wasnt awd, right?

SteveCraig

Tires developing a flat spot from sitting ? This will take a few miles to get out, longer in colder weather.
My F150 4X4 has Michelins on it, does the same thing.

jnovak01

New Brakes. Can you tell me if it was pads and calipers?
If you replaced the pads great. I will assume you did.

If you did not you have three likely suspects:
1. Pads - it seems you replaced them by your post when you say brakes.
2. Calipers - This is where my money is - there are two likely suspects within the caliper -
One - the pins in the caliper can lose their ability to slide back and forth. This will most assuredly cause the vibration. It also happens frequently with brakes.
Two - the caliper can be in the beginning stages of freezing up. You would notice this more with how the car stops and starts if it was a frozen caliper. It is very evident.

I would start with the caliper first as it is the most likely culprit and a safety related item. You can always feel justified about making your car safer. It is possible, however unlikely, that you can easily fix the caliper. Partially disassemble the caliper and lube the pins. It works....sometimes...but if it helps the vibration noticeably it is the main reason for the vibration and to have any hope of eliminating the vibration in its entirety you will need to at least replace the calipers.

I would also recommend buying good calipers - I have replaced calipers with lower quality brands and have regretted it two years later. I now replace my calipers with Raybestos rebuilds. I think they are excellent quality and provide good value.

3. With 140K on the car you are in the area of needing new lower control arms. Even though you cannot see any problems with the bushings with 140K its time to replace the lower control arms AND the ball joints. (In my opinion) Once a modern car hits 120K plus it’s generally time to start replacing anything rubber in the suspension. I.e. control arms, ball joints, struts, strut bearings, sway bar bushings.

It is most likely NOT a wheel bearing. Wheel bearings, when they start to go, will make a grinding noise most often when you make a turn and they are very audible when making slow speed turns. Turn your radio off and listen when going slow around a curve, or best yet a cul-de-sac. CV joints are the same. Most bearings used now are extremely reliable unless the boot has a tear in it then they go...rapidly and it is very noticeable.

Good Luck

Joe

azon2111

Thanks for the replies from everyone.

- Brakes: I meant to say rotors and pads. Guess I can get a caliper and brake flush done as well.

- Replaced lower control arm ball joints already so I will move to the bushings. I was going to simply buy the bushings instead of the arms themselves and found that the parts are a bit hard to find but good old e*ay was the option and found whiteline bushings (oe from korea).
ANYONE familiar with these bushings? http://www.ebay.com/itm/W53372-Whiteline-Front-Lower-Control-Arm-Bushing-Kit-Rear-Position-LexusToyota-/181065127447?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3ARX350&hash=item2a28529617&vxp=mtr and http://www.ebay.com/itm/W53297-Whiteline-Front-Lower-Control-Arm-Bushing-Kit-Front-Position-Toyota-/170966313213?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3ARX350&hash=item27ce62e8fd&vxp=mtr. Any feedback on this would be appreciated as the complete arms are around $140+ each.

- Will do struts and stuff. Which parts do you suggest, just struts and bearings or supports too?
Based on this diagram (http://www.mylparts.com/parts/2010/L...iagram=8914270) I was thinking #1, 8, and 10. Do I need anything else?

Thanks everyone!

jnovak01

Those seem like good choices. Let everyone know about how the bushing exchange goes.
I never saw any posts about changing the bushings only and I have never done it. Seemed too much of pain.

As an alternative check out RockAuto.com.
They have multiple choices for parts mfg.
Good Luck

afpj

Since it's an AWD, some simple things to check along the driveline...driveshaft/u-joints look straight, no play? transfer case and rear diff fluid changed? Front and rear axles also straight looking, no dents? Just thinking aloud. Changing front suspension components a pain, more so than ujoints IMHO.

Clutchless

The Whiteline bushings are polyurethane and likely stiffer than the stock rubber bushings which will increase vibration. They may also improve steering feel and response due to less flex than rubber. Years ago I installed them on the front lower control arms of my old Mazda MX6, which had many after market suspension modifications. I removed them after a few weeks and installed new stock control arms because I did not like the increased vibration and stiffness from the polyurethane bushings. Also they are a PITA to remove and install.