3rd Gen Lexus RX hard suspension (merged threads)
#601
Yeah I got a big honkin' m18 med duty impact with a 6.0 battery on it. Good for 800-1000 ft lbs. Makes things a lot easier/quicker/safer. I don't know how I ever lived without one. And finally broke down and bought me a jack yesterday. No more bottle jacks. Points to easier comment above.
I figure I'll mess with the springs later, if I still notice an issue. They seem fairly easy to change.
Took some vid. I think I will get the sway bar links locally. I'll never return them if I buy from Rock auto and it doesn't look like I am going to need them. Or at least might not. Things look great. I uploaded the front passenger side vid. I see one ball joint that might have blown out and an oil leak that I need the gasket identified... if yall don't mind. Also going to upload a rear vid to yt. Maybe you can tell me if I need to replace the trailing arms. But everything looks pretty good all the way around. Need to get OEM mount bearing. Don't feel like taking off wipers to check the mounts. I'm just going to take a chance. Looked at odometer yesterday also. At 173k miles now.
Watched vids myself just now. Looks like sway bar link is what needs replacing on passenger side. So maybe I'll rock auto them after all. The leak looks like it might be coming from and oil line? Plus some darkness up at the head. But I couldn't get phone up there to see for sure.
The rear vid I'm being told my dog is outside half way through. I raise my voice quite a bit. So don't listen with headphones on. And what are those bag things.... where the body meets frame? Those look like if I replaced..... I'd have a better ride. Even if they don't 'need' replacing. Probably cost more than worth though....
front -
rear -
I figure I'll mess with the springs later, if I still notice an issue. They seem fairly easy to change.
Took some vid. I think I will get the sway bar links locally. I'll never return them if I buy from Rock auto and it doesn't look like I am going to need them. Or at least might not. Things look great. I uploaded the front passenger side vid. I see one ball joint that might have blown out and an oil leak that I need the gasket identified... if yall don't mind. Also going to upload a rear vid to yt. Maybe you can tell me if I need to replace the trailing arms. But everything looks pretty good all the way around. Need to get OEM mount bearing. Don't feel like taking off wipers to check the mounts. I'm just going to take a chance. Looked at odometer yesterday also. At 173k miles now.
Watched vids myself just now. Looks like sway bar link is what needs replacing on passenger side. So maybe I'll rock auto them after all. The leak looks like it might be coming from and oil line? Plus some darkness up at the head. But I couldn't get phone up there to see for sure.
The rear vid I'm being told my dog is outside half way through. I raise my voice quite a bit. So don't listen with headphones on. And what are those bag things.... where the body meets frame? Those look like if I replaced..... I'd have a better ride. Even if they don't 'need' replacing. Probably cost more than worth though....
front -
Last edited by needa; 10-07-23 at 11:18 AM.
#602
Looks like the sway bar links are puking a little bit of grease. Mine were doing that too but were still quiet and solid. I tried to save them but ended up having to cut them off because the allen stripped out and even vise grips weren’t enough to prevent them from spinning.
The subframe bushings and the rest look good. Lower control arms on this platform wear the fastest yours still have some life left for sure.
The leak looks like the infamous timing cover leak. I have it on my 2008 RX350 and it’s coming from the same spot. I would go under and look at where the valve cover is screwed down just in case it may be a VCG instead.
The subframe bushings and the rest look good. Lower control arms on this platform wear the fastest yours still have some life left for sure.
The leak looks like the infamous timing cover leak. I have it on my 2008 RX350 and it’s coming from the same spot. I would go under and look at where the valve cover is screwed down just in case it may be a VCG instead.
#603
Looks like the sway bar links are puking a little bit of grease. Mine were doing that too but were still quiet and solid. I tried to save them but ended up having to cut them off because the allen stripped out and even vise grips weren’t enough to prevent them from spinning.
The subframe bushings and the rest look good. Lower control arms on this platform wear the fastest yours still have some life left for sure.
The leak looks like the infamous timing cover leak. I have it on my 2008 RX350 and it’s coming from the same spot. I would go under and look at where the valve cover is screwed down just in case it may be a VCG instead.
The subframe bushings and the rest look good. Lower control arms on this platform wear the fastest yours still have some life left for sure.
The leak looks like the infamous timing cover leak. I have it on my 2008 RX350 and it’s coming from the same spot. I would go under and look at where the valve cover is screwed down just in case it may be a VCG instead.
#604
Moderator
I agree it looks like the infamous not worth fixing timing cover leak (seep) or if lucky the VVT line banjo bolt leak. Spray it with brake cleaner then keep an eye on it to determine where it is leaking. Some have had luck tightening the timing cover bolts in that area and putting some RTV on the leak area. There is a spray leak stop RTV that someone used before coating that with high temp RTV. However most of the time it is just a nuisance leak that makes a small mess and you never have to add oil. It is not worth the trouble to remove the engine to fix it.
You do need front strut dust covers along with the new strut mounts.
One trick I use when replacing struts is to break the strut shaft center nut loose while they are still in the car. Then when they are in the spring compressor it is a lot easier to just unbolt them without trying to hold it down while breaking the nut loose.
You did not show the rear trailing arms as you really have to get under the car and look up to see their bushings. They are difficult to replace without a lift due to the access angles on the bolts.
https://www.partsgeek.com/lksrjg5-le...hoCZYUQAvD_BwE
You do need front strut dust covers along with the new strut mounts.
One trick I use when replacing struts is to break the strut shaft center nut loose while they are still in the car. Then when they are in the spring compressor it is a lot easier to just unbolt them without trying to hold it down while breaking the nut loose.
You did not show the rear trailing arms as you really have to get under the car and look up to see their bushings. They are difficult to replace without a lift due to the access angles on the bolts.
https://www.partsgeek.com/lksrjg5-le...hoCZYUQAvD_BwE
#605
Yeah the dust covers on the driver's side are actually crammed up in the bumper. Definitely getting those.
Cleaned the area. Got better vid. I see the mount bearing kit for $91 on one of those sites you listed in previous comment. Going to check with local Toyo place to see if they are close to price on Monday. And going to go ahead and grab the banjo bolt seals just in case.
Got the mevotech greasible links. The standard ones without allen inserts and the sachs cover/bumper sets in my cart. Will put order through as soon as you verify that the trailing arms look ok.
Again... can't thank you enough. I'll be squared away here shortly.
edit: and thx for the tip on the strut top bolt. That makes sense.
Cleaned the area. Got better vid. I see the mount bearing kit for $91 on one of those sites you listed in previous comment. Going to check with local Toyo place to see if they are close to price on Monday. And going to go ahead and grab the banjo bolt seals just in case.
Got the mevotech greasible links. The standard ones without allen inserts and the sachs cover/bumper sets in my cart. Will put order through as soon as you verify that the trailing arms look ok.
Again... can't thank you enough. I'll be squared away here shortly.
edit: and thx for the tip on the strut top bolt. That makes sense.
#606
Moderator
You made some excellent videos! Good luck on the project!
I would leave the rear trailing arms alone for now, the bushings are not that bad for your mileage. You will notice a clunk back there when it is time to replace them.
One more thing on the front strut mounts. Note very carefully how they are lined up originally, photograph it and mark it on the car. You want to put the new ones back in rotated into that exact position as it affects your wheel alignment.
I would leave the rear trailing arms alone for now, the bushings are not that bad for your mileage. You will notice a clunk back there when it is time to replace them.
One more thing on the front strut mounts. Note very carefully how they are lined up originally, photograph it and mark it on the car. You want to put the new ones back in rotated into that exact position as it affects your wheel alignment.
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needa (10-07-23)
#607
Your vehicle will drive, handle and ride just fine with KYB in front and Bilstein B4 in the rear. You may even decide to leave the springs alone after experiencing the Bilstein ride. Let us know what you think after driving on them for a couple of weeks and breaking them in.
Thank you for your kind help. I've got the 2 Bilstein strut for the rear and replace my KYB. I can feel the ride is a lot smoother than before, not to the point where I'd like it to be coz I want a floating cloud feeling ride but soft enought for me to accept. I can feel the like the front shock is a bit stiffer now, i may look to replace them also with the Bilstein when the front KYB start to wear out. Once again, thank for the help and the details provided.
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Clutchless (10-19-23)
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