Use a Dashboard Cover?
03-01-12, 10:22 AM
#1
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Use a Dashboard Cover?
On my previous ride [RX300], I used a Dashboard Cover - to prevent sun exposure
from drying-out, cracking the dashboard material. Worked great for the 10 yrs. of
ownership. NOW - how do you feel about a 'Cover' (costing about $36 or so) for my
new RX350???
from drying-out, cracking the dashboard material. Worked great for the 10 yrs. of
ownership. NOW - how do you feel about a 'Cover' (costing about $36 or so) for my
new RX350???
03-01-12, 10:44 AM
#2
You won't find one probably, think about a w/s screen instead. Should do the trick and be easy to stow away.
03-01-12, 12:03 PM
#3
Moderator
03-01-12, 12:35 PM
#4
Lexus Test Driver
no offense, but i find dashboard cover as ugly.
Use a windshield screen instead and it's easier to stow.
And the Lexus windshield has a special coating that prevents from UV rays, something to think about.
The only way, i will use a dashboard cover is IF the dashboard is too hard or of plastic material.
something that LEXUS doesn't use in its vehicles
Use a windshield screen instead and it's easier to stow.
And the Lexus windshield has a special coating that prevents from UV rays, something to think about.
The only way, i will use a dashboard cover is IF the dashboard is too hard or of plastic material.
something that LEXUS doesn't use in its vehicles
03-01-12, 08:12 PM
#5
Here is what I picked up, it is the windshield screen:
http://lexus.sewellparts.com/accesso...2010/2655.html
The regular price is $30, but if you include your ClubLexus ID when you register the price will show as $25. It protects the dash and really cuts the heat in the car. It is some work to put it in and take it out, but I only use it in either heat or when I will be parked for a while.
One thing about the RX is that it has a really large dash area ... so a dash cover will really stand out. Each of us uses our RX differently and the cover may make more sense for you than the windshield screen. They are both inexpensive so you could buy both and see how they work out; or even use both on hot days.
http://lexus.sewellparts.com/accesso...2010/2655.html
The regular price is $30, but if you include your ClubLexus ID when you register the price will show as $25. It protects the dash and really cuts the heat in the car. It is some work to put it in and take it out, but I only use it in either heat or when I will be parked for a while.
One thing about the RX is that it has a really large dash area ... so a dash cover will really stand out. Each of us uses our RX differently and the cover may make more sense for you than the windshield screen. They are both inexpensive so you could buy both and see how they work out; or even use both on hot days.
03-02-12, 07:57 AM
#6
Here is what I picked up, it is the windshield screen:
http://lexus.sewellparts.com/accesso...2010/2655.html
The regular price is $30, but if you include your ClubLexus ID when you register the price will show as $25. It protects the dash and really cuts the heat in the car. It is some work to put it in and take it out, but I only use it in either heat or when I will be parked for a while.
One thing about the RX is that it has a really large dash area ... so a dash cover will really stand out. Each of us uses our RX differently and the cover may make more sense for you than the windshield screen. They are both inexpensive so you could buy both and see how they work out; or even use both on hot days.
http://lexus.sewellparts.com/accesso...2010/2655.html
The regular price is $30, but if you include your ClubLexus ID when you register the price will show as $25. It protects the dash and really cuts the heat in the car. It is some work to put it in and take it out, but I only use it in either heat or when I will be parked for a while.
One thing about the RX is that it has a really large dash area ... so a dash cover will really stand out. Each of us uses our RX differently and the cover may make more sense for you than the windshield screen. They are both inexpensive so you could buy both and see how they work out; or even use both on hot days.
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03-03-12, 10:05 AM
#8
Here is what I picked up, it is the windshield screen:
http://lexus.sewellparts.com/accesso...2010/2655.html
The regular price is $30, but if you include your ClubLexus ID when you register the price will show as $25. It protects the dash and really cuts the heat in the car. It is some work to put it in and take it out, but I only use it in either heat or when I will be parked for a while.
One thing about the RX is that it has a really large dash area ... so a dash cover will really stand out. Each of us uses our RX differently and the cover may make more sense for you than the windshield screen. They are both inexpensive so you could buy both and see how they work out; or even use both on hot days.
http://lexus.sewellparts.com/accesso...2010/2655.html
The regular price is $30, but if you include your ClubLexus ID when you register the price will show as $25. It protects the dash and really cuts the heat in the car. It is some work to put it in and take it out, but I only use it in either heat or when I will be parked for a while.
One thing about the RX is that it has a really large dash area ... so a dash cover will really stand out. Each of us uses our RX differently and the cover may make more sense for you than the windshield screen. They are both inexpensive so you could buy both and see how they work out; or even use both on hot days.
I did try and combine into one order and that saves me a whopping $0.43 so I think I will just call the dealer and see what they can work out for me since the free 5K service is about 150 miles away.
Sewell did save me some coin on the cargo mat, however, so that was a definite win.
03-03-12, 08:55 PM
#9
I second all the posts above, A dash cover does not look as good as the RX dash. A sunscreen is much better will not only protect your dash but also lower UV and temperature throughout the vehicle interior, helping to preserve all the vinyl, plastic and leather materials. I use a sunscreen in all my vehicles every time I park on a sunny day, unless it is a realy cold winter day and I am trying to keep the car from getting tooo cold. Temperature is an aging factor for all the organic materials used in your Lexus, separate from the UV aging factor. A sunscreen will reduce both aging factors for all the the interior finish materials. The only thing a dash cover does is block UV from the dash underneath.
03-03-12, 10:45 PM
#10
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I hate to say it, but I always scoff at people who put unnecessary things in their cars, such as seat covers or towels to cover seats. Less so on dash mats, but still they are an eye sore. I always wondered about airbag deployment.
05-12-14, 03:32 PM
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Solar side shades made easy 2003 RX300
In reading other posts about sun screens, there seems to be two groups of participants, those who believe in Lexus aesthetics and those who believe in maintaining marital harmony. I am a member of the latter.
The best parking space in Texas is chosen by the availability of shade and not the shortest distance to the door. So, I decided to make a substantial sun screen for my driver or passenger window when no shade trees are available. After every election, many political voting signs are abandoned, so I recycled (free) some of them to make my screens. If you don’t have any political signs you can go to a home store and purchase (not free) “For Sale” sign of equivalent corrugated material.
One screen will fit either window, so you only need one.
Start out with a panel of material 18” X 36.” This will give you a few inches of room to cut and trim as needed. If you have one large piece, consider yourself lucky because the signs are usually smaller and you have to join them.
Make the pattern on heavy duty paper or flip chart sheets. The only unusual dimensions are the opposite corner slants in the window. The diagram is obviously not to scale, but the dimensions are real close.
Words Of Wisdom or WOW (or don’t make the mistakes I did)
WOW 1). Don’t make your pattern by tracing the outside window shape because you will waste a lot of time trimming. The inside measurements are smaller.
Be sure to lay out the panel with the corrugated channels oriented horizontally instead of vertically.
The panel horizontal dimension was larger than the width of the corrugated signs so I had to join two pieces together with three 4 inch “dowel pins.” I cut the “pins” from the wires that held the signs into the ground.
WOW 2) With the two panels in front of you, the left panel will have the dowels inserted from the right edge to the left stopping at the push pins at 2 inches. The pins will prevent the dowels from disappearing inside the corrugation when you squeeze the panels together.
You will need to cut a “keeper” slot into the panel at the top edge, so don’t put the dowel in the part that will be cut out. You decide where to put the slot.
After I squeezed the panels together I used wide clear packing tape to keep them from separating.
The keeper tab
Look at the outside photo. It is not elegant, but it shows how the panel is held in place with its keeper. I had some canvas material, so I cut a piece 3 inches wide by 8 inches long. I folded it over and glued a wood dowel, about the diameter of a pencil, inside the fold. You can use a stubby pencil if you do not have a dowel rod. Sew the pieces together with heavy duty thread or you can use dental tape. Dental tape is stronger than dental floss. You can even spray paint the cloth with aluminum spray paint if you want.
You will need to cut a 3 inch wide slot about an inch or so into the top edge of the panel. When you install the panel, leave the window open about an inch, put the shade in place, flip the keeper through the window opening and raise the window.
WOW 3). If you make the keeper tab too short, you will rip out the stitching when the glass goes into the frame channel.
WOW 4) Gluing the foil to the shade material
I replaced all of my A/C ductwork in my attic with insulated aluminized flex “tubing.” I had a few extra feet left over so I cut off the exterior jacket and used it because it has somewhat of a cloth backing to it. This has a little more durability than the kitchen aluminum foil I used to make my prototype. Or maybe you want to be creative and use foil wallpaper. Base your criteria on sun blocking reflectivity and durability. If you don’t have this ductwork foil, use the heavy duty kitchen aluminum foil. The foil is not going to be big enough to cover the panel, so you will have to patch it together. No matter how careful you are, the foil will wrinkle.
Lay down a long piece of aluminum foil on your workbench and tape down the left corners with tape. Slide a piece of newspaper UNDER the foil to serve as a catcher of the overspray glue. Protect your work bench, but DO NOT attach the newspaper to your bench. As soon as you are finished spraying the glue, you need to slide the newspaper out from under the foil or else the overspray glue will glue your comic strips to the panel.
Put two more tape tabs in the other two corners to hold the foil down so that it will not be disturbed as you align and make contact with the panel material.
Lay the panel onto the foil and press evenly all over the surface.
Flip the panel over and use the small roller to securely attach the foil to the panel. If you don’t have a roller, use a dry cloth and “polish” the foil surface in all directions just like removing air bubbles from under wallpaper. Repeat this process as many times as needed to entirely cover both surfaces. After you get all of the foil attached, you need to seal the sharp edges.
WOW 5)
Sealing the edges
Masking tape, duct tape and other tapes will “melt” and ooze adhesive onto your hands or upholstery. The only reliable foil tape I found is the type you can find in Home Depot, Lowes or an air conditioning supply store. It is actually a heavy duty aluminum foil with super sticky glue. It will cost a few bucks, but it is good for a lot of other uses.
Don’t cover an entire edge with one long piece. Instead, cut segments of tape about 6 to 8 inches long and work with them. It will all blend in. Practice on the straight edges first.
Taping the curves
Align the “center line” of the aluminum tape over the edge of the panel. Use scissors to cut slits about every ¼ inch so when you fold the overhang onto the panel surface it won’t bunch up and look messy. There is no good way around it. Aesthetically it can look “messy” or “really messy” depending on how careful you are.
Materials needed besides the corrugated sign material
Can of Elmer’s spray glue or head liner glue equivalent
Heavy duty kitchen aluminum foil (the lighter version tears easily)
Aluminum version of duct tape. (Air conditioning grade)
Piece of dowel or short pencil and canvas for the keeper
The wire frame from the sign.
Tools needed
Measuring tools
Utility knife or stout X-Acto knife
Small roller to smooth out the foil when it is glued to the panel
Hacksaw to cut the wire dowel pins
Heavy duty sewing thread or dental tape and needle
When the sun shines inside it is not unusual for an inside temp of 120+ degrees F on the leather seats. Trust me, your spouse will thank you for being so considerate.
DrDan
The best parking space in Texas is chosen by the availability of shade and not the shortest distance to the door. So, I decided to make a substantial sun screen for my driver or passenger window when no shade trees are available. After every election, many political voting signs are abandoned, so I recycled (free) some of them to make my screens. If you don’t have any political signs you can go to a home store and purchase (not free) “For Sale” sign of equivalent corrugated material.
One screen will fit either window, so you only need one.
Start out with a panel of material 18” X 36.” This will give you a few inches of room to cut and trim as needed. If you have one large piece, consider yourself lucky because the signs are usually smaller and you have to join them.
Make the pattern on heavy duty paper or flip chart sheets. The only unusual dimensions are the opposite corner slants in the window. The diagram is obviously not to scale, but the dimensions are real close.
Words Of Wisdom or WOW (or don’t make the mistakes I did)
WOW 1). Don’t make your pattern by tracing the outside window shape because you will waste a lot of time trimming. The inside measurements are smaller.
Be sure to lay out the panel with the corrugated channels oriented horizontally instead of vertically.
The panel horizontal dimension was larger than the width of the corrugated signs so I had to join two pieces together with three 4 inch “dowel pins.” I cut the “pins” from the wires that held the signs into the ground.
WOW 2) With the two panels in front of you, the left panel will have the dowels inserted from the right edge to the left stopping at the push pins at 2 inches. The pins will prevent the dowels from disappearing inside the corrugation when you squeeze the panels together.
You will need to cut a “keeper” slot into the panel at the top edge, so don’t put the dowel in the part that will be cut out. You decide where to put the slot.
After I squeezed the panels together I used wide clear packing tape to keep them from separating.
The keeper tab
Look at the outside photo. It is not elegant, but it shows how the panel is held in place with its keeper. I had some canvas material, so I cut a piece 3 inches wide by 8 inches long. I folded it over and glued a wood dowel, about the diameter of a pencil, inside the fold. You can use a stubby pencil if you do not have a dowel rod. Sew the pieces together with heavy duty thread or you can use dental tape. Dental tape is stronger than dental floss. You can even spray paint the cloth with aluminum spray paint if you want.
You will need to cut a 3 inch wide slot about an inch or so into the top edge of the panel. When you install the panel, leave the window open about an inch, put the shade in place, flip the keeper through the window opening and raise the window.
WOW 3). If you make the keeper tab too short, you will rip out the stitching when the glass goes into the frame channel.
WOW 4) Gluing the foil to the shade material
I replaced all of my A/C ductwork in my attic with insulated aluminized flex “tubing.” I had a few extra feet left over so I cut off the exterior jacket and used it because it has somewhat of a cloth backing to it. This has a little more durability than the kitchen aluminum foil I used to make my prototype. Or maybe you want to be creative and use foil wallpaper. Base your criteria on sun blocking reflectivity and durability. If you don’t have this ductwork foil, use the heavy duty kitchen aluminum foil. The foil is not going to be big enough to cover the panel, so you will have to patch it together. No matter how careful you are, the foil will wrinkle.
Lay down a long piece of aluminum foil on your workbench and tape down the left corners with tape. Slide a piece of newspaper UNDER the foil to serve as a catcher of the overspray glue. Protect your work bench, but DO NOT attach the newspaper to your bench. As soon as you are finished spraying the glue, you need to slide the newspaper out from under the foil or else the overspray glue will glue your comic strips to the panel.
Put two more tape tabs in the other two corners to hold the foil down so that it will not be disturbed as you align and make contact with the panel material.
Lay the panel onto the foil and press evenly all over the surface.
Flip the panel over and use the small roller to securely attach the foil to the panel. If you don’t have a roller, use a dry cloth and “polish” the foil surface in all directions just like removing air bubbles from under wallpaper. Repeat this process as many times as needed to entirely cover both surfaces. After you get all of the foil attached, you need to seal the sharp edges.
WOW 5)
Sealing the edges
Masking tape, duct tape and other tapes will “melt” and ooze adhesive onto your hands or upholstery. The only reliable foil tape I found is the type you can find in Home Depot, Lowes or an air conditioning supply store. It is actually a heavy duty aluminum foil with super sticky glue. It will cost a few bucks, but it is good for a lot of other uses.
Don’t cover an entire edge with one long piece. Instead, cut segments of tape about 6 to 8 inches long and work with them. It will all blend in. Practice on the straight edges first.
Taping the curves
Align the “center line” of the aluminum tape over the edge of the panel. Use scissors to cut slits about every ¼ inch so when you fold the overhang onto the panel surface it won’t bunch up and look messy. There is no good way around it. Aesthetically it can look “messy” or “really messy” depending on how careful you are.
Materials needed besides the corrugated sign material
Can of Elmer’s spray glue or head liner glue equivalent
Heavy duty kitchen aluminum foil (the lighter version tears easily)
Aluminum version of duct tape. (Air conditioning grade)
Piece of dowel or short pencil and canvas for the keeper
The wire frame from the sign.
Tools needed
Measuring tools
Utility knife or stout X-Acto knife
Small roller to smooth out the foil when it is glued to the panel
Hacksaw to cut the wire dowel pins
Heavy duty sewing thread or dental tape and needle
When the sun shines inside it is not unusual for an inside temp of 120+ degrees F on the leather seats. Trust me, your spouse will thank you for being so considerate.
DrDan
Last edited by DrDan; 05-13-14 at 08:46 PM. Reason: needs photos
05-12-14, 03:39 PM
#12
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OK folks, I asked for explicit instructions on how to upload pictures, but did not get a reply, so I "winged it" and it failed. Anybody have good uploading instructions from by desk computer?
In fact, if someone has good instructions, I will do a write up for others who might be intimidated by the process.
DrDan
In fact, if someone has good instructions, I will do a write up for others who might be intimidated by the process.
DrDan
05-12-14, 03:50 PM
#13
In reading other posts about sun screens, there seems to be two groups of participants, those who believe in Lexus aesthetics and those who believe in maintaining marital harmony. I am a member of the latter.
The best parking space in Texas is chosen by the availability of shade and not the shortest distance to the door. So, I decided to make a substantial sun screen for my driver or passenger window when no shade trees are available. After every election, many political voting signs are abandoned, so I recycled (free) some of them to make my screens. If you don’t have any political signs you can go to a home store and purchase (not free) “For Sale” sign of equivalent corrugated material.
One screen will fit either window, so you only need one.
[IMG]I:\slide1[/IMG]
Start out with a panel of material 18” X 36.” This will give you a few inches of room to cut and trim as needed. If you have one large piece, consider yourself lucky because the signs are usually smaller and you have to join them.
[IMG]I:\slide2[/IMG]
Make the pattern on heavy duty paper or flip chart sheets. The only unusual dimensions are the opposite corner slants in the window. The diagram is obviously not to scale, but the dimensions are real close.
Words Of Wisdom or WOW (or don’t make the mistakes I did)
WOW 1). Don’t make your pattern by tracing the outside window shape because you will waste a lot of time trimming. The inside measurements are smaller.
Be sure to lay out the panel with the corrugated channels oriented horizontally instead of vertically.
The panel horizontal dimension was larger than the width of the corrugated signs so I had to join two pieces together with three 4 inch “dowel pins.” I cut the “pins” from the wires that held the signs into the ground.
[IMG]I:\slide3[/IMG]
WOW 2) With the two panels in front of you, the left panel will have the dowels inserted from the right edge to the left stopping at the push pins at 2 inches. The pins will prevent the dowels from disappearing inside the corrugation when you squeeze the panels together.
You will need to cut a “keeper” slot into the panel at the top edge, so don’t put the dowel in the part that will be cut out. You decide where to put the slot.
After I squeezed the panels together I used wide clear packing tape to keep them from separating.
[IMG]I:\slide4[/IMG]
The keeper tab
Look at the outside photo. It is not elegant, but it shows how the panel is held in place with its keeper. I had some canvas material, so I cut a piece 3 inches wide by 8 inches long. I folded it over and glued a wood dowel, about the diameter of a pencil, inside the fold. You can use a stubby pencil if you do not have a dowel rod. Sew the pieces together with heavy duty thread or you can use dental tape. Dental tape is stronger than dental floss. You can even spray paint the cloth with aluminum spray paint if you want.
[IMG]I:\slide5[/IMG]
You will need to cut a 3 inch wide slot about an inch or so into the top edge of the panel. When you install the panel, leave the window open about an inch, put the shade in place, flip the keeper through the window opening and raise the window.
WOW 3). If you make the keeper tab too short, you will rip out the stitching when the glass goes into the frame channel.
WOW 4) Gluing the foil to the shade material
I replaced all of my A/C ductwork in my attic with insulated aluminized flex “tubing.” I had a few extra feet left over so I cut off the exterior jacket and used it because it has somewhat of a cloth backing to it. This has a little more durability than the kitchen aluminum foil I used to make my prototype. Or maybe you want to be creative and use foil wallpaper. Base your criteria on sun blocking reflectivity and durability. If you don’t have this ductwork foil, use the heavy duty kitchen aluminum foil. The foil is not going to be big enough to cover the panel, so you will have to patch it together. No matter how careful you are, the foil will wrinkle.
Lay down a long piece of aluminum foil on your workbench and tape down the left corners with tape. Slide a piece of newspaper UNDER the foil to serve as a catcher of the overspray glue. Protect your work bench, but DO NOT attach the newspaper to your bench. As soon as you are finished spraying the glue, you need to slide the newspaper out from under the foil or else the overspray glue will glue your comic strips to the panel.
Put two more tape tabs in the other two corners to hold the foil down so that it will not be disturbed as you align and make contact with the panel material.
Lay the panel onto the foil and press evenly all over the surface.
Flip the panel over and use the small roller to securely attach the foil to the panel. If you don’t have a roller, use a dry cloth and “polish” the foil surface in all directions just like removing air bubbles from under wallpaper. Repeat this process as many times as needed to entirely cover both surfaces. After you get all of the foil attached, you need to seal the sharp edges.
[IMG]I:\slide6[/IMG]
[IMG]L:\slide7[/IMG]
WOW 5)
Sealing the edges
Masking tape, duct tape and other tapes will “melt” and ooze adhesive onto your hands or upholstery. The only reliable foil tape I found is the type you can find in Home Depot, Lowes or an air conditioning supply store. It is actually a heavy duty aluminum foil with super sticky glue. It will cost a few bucks, but it is good for a lot of other uses.
Don’t cover an entire edge with one long piece. Instead, cut segments of tape about 6 to 8 inches long and work with them. It will all blend in. Practice on the straight edges first.
Taping the curves
Align the “center line” of the aluminum tape over the edge of the panel. Use scissors to cut slits about every ¼ inch so when you fold the overhang onto the panel surface it won’t bunch up and look messy. There is no good way around it. Aesthetically it can look “messy” or “really messy” depending on how careful you are.
Materials needed besides the corrugated sign material
Can of Elmer’s spray glue or head liner glue equivalent
Heavy duty kitchen aluminum foil (the lighter version tears easily)
Aluminum version of duct tape. (Air conditioning grade)
Piece of dowel or short pencil and canvas for the keeper
The wire frame from the sign.
Tools needed
Measuring tools
Utility knife or stout X-Acto knife
Small roller to smooth out the foil when it is glued to the panel
Hacksaw to cut the wire dowel pins
Heavy duty sewing thread or dental tape and needle
When the sun shines inside it is not unusual for an inside temp of 120+ degrees F on the leather seats. Trust me, your spouse will thank you for being so considerate.
DrDan
The best parking space in Texas is chosen by the availability of shade and not the shortest distance to the door. So, I decided to make a substantial sun screen for my driver or passenger window when no shade trees are available. After every election, many political voting signs are abandoned, so I recycled (free) some of them to make my screens. If you don’t have any political signs you can go to a home store and purchase (not free) “For Sale” sign of equivalent corrugated material.
One screen will fit either window, so you only need one.
[IMG]I:\slide1[/IMG]
Start out with a panel of material 18” X 36.” This will give you a few inches of room to cut and trim as needed. If you have one large piece, consider yourself lucky because the signs are usually smaller and you have to join them.
[IMG]I:\slide2[/IMG]
Make the pattern on heavy duty paper or flip chart sheets. The only unusual dimensions are the opposite corner slants in the window. The diagram is obviously not to scale, but the dimensions are real close.
Words Of Wisdom or WOW (or don’t make the mistakes I did)
WOW 1). Don’t make your pattern by tracing the outside window shape because you will waste a lot of time trimming. The inside measurements are smaller.
Be sure to lay out the panel with the corrugated channels oriented horizontally instead of vertically.
The panel horizontal dimension was larger than the width of the corrugated signs so I had to join two pieces together with three 4 inch “dowel pins.” I cut the “pins” from the wires that held the signs into the ground.
[IMG]I:\slide3[/IMG]
WOW 2) With the two panels in front of you, the left panel will have the dowels inserted from the right edge to the left stopping at the push pins at 2 inches. The pins will prevent the dowels from disappearing inside the corrugation when you squeeze the panels together.
You will need to cut a “keeper” slot into the panel at the top edge, so don’t put the dowel in the part that will be cut out. You decide where to put the slot.
After I squeezed the panels together I used wide clear packing tape to keep them from separating.
[IMG]I:\slide4[/IMG]
The keeper tab
Look at the outside photo. It is not elegant, but it shows how the panel is held in place with its keeper. I had some canvas material, so I cut a piece 3 inches wide by 8 inches long. I folded it over and glued a wood dowel, about the diameter of a pencil, inside the fold. You can use a stubby pencil if you do not have a dowel rod. Sew the pieces together with heavy duty thread or you can use dental tape. Dental tape is stronger than dental floss. You can even spray paint the cloth with aluminum spray paint if you want.
[IMG]I:\slide5[/IMG]
You will need to cut a 3 inch wide slot about an inch or so into the top edge of the panel. When you install the panel, leave the window open about an inch, put the shade in place, flip the keeper through the window opening and raise the window.
WOW 3). If you make the keeper tab too short, you will rip out the stitching when the glass goes into the frame channel.
WOW 4) Gluing the foil to the shade material
I replaced all of my A/C ductwork in my attic with insulated aluminized flex “tubing.” I had a few extra feet left over so I cut off the exterior jacket and used it because it has somewhat of a cloth backing to it. This has a little more durability than the kitchen aluminum foil I used to make my prototype. Or maybe you want to be creative and use foil wallpaper. Base your criteria on sun blocking reflectivity and durability. If you don’t have this ductwork foil, use the heavy duty kitchen aluminum foil. The foil is not going to be big enough to cover the panel, so you will have to patch it together. No matter how careful you are, the foil will wrinkle.
Lay down a long piece of aluminum foil on your workbench and tape down the left corners with tape. Slide a piece of newspaper UNDER the foil to serve as a catcher of the overspray glue. Protect your work bench, but DO NOT attach the newspaper to your bench. As soon as you are finished spraying the glue, you need to slide the newspaper out from under the foil or else the overspray glue will glue your comic strips to the panel.
Put two more tape tabs in the other two corners to hold the foil down so that it will not be disturbed as you align and make contact with the panel material.
Lay the panel onto the foil and press evenly all over the surface.
Flip the panel over and use the small roller to securely attach the foil to the panel. If you don’t have a roller, use a dry cloth and “polish” the foil surface in all directions just like removing air bubbles from under wallpaper. Repeat this process as many times as needed to entirely cover both surfaces. After you get all of the foil attached, you need to seal the sharp edges.
[IMG]I:\slide6[/IMG]
[IMG]L:\slide7[/IMG]
WOW 5)
Sealing the edges
Masking tape, duct tape and other tapes will “melt” and ooze adhesive onto your hands or upholstery. The only reliable foil tape I found is the type you can find in Home Depot, Lowes or an air conditioning supply store. It is actually a heavy duty aluminum foil with super sticky glue. It will cost a few bucks, but it is good for a lot of other uses.
Don’t cover an entire edge with one long piece. Instead, cut segments of tape about 6 to 8 inches long and work with them. It will all blend in. Practice on the straight edges first.
Taping the curves
Align the “center line” of the aluminum tape over the edge of the panel. Use scissors to cut slits about every ¼ inch so when you fold the overhang onto the panel surface it won’t bunch up and look messy. There is no good way around it. Aesthetically it can look “messy” or “really messy” depending on how careful you are.
Materials needed besides the corrugated sign material
Can of Elmer’s spray glue or head liner glue equivalent
Heavy duty kitchen aluminum foil (the lighter version tears easily)
Aluminum version of duct tape. (Air conditioning grade)
Piece of dowel or short pencil and canvas for the keeper
The wire frame from the sign.
Tools needed
Measuring tools
Utility knife or stout X-Acto knife
Small roller to smooth out the foil when it is glued to the panel
Hacksaw to cut the wire dowel pins
Heavy duty sewing thread or dental tape and needle
When the sun shines inside it is not unusual for an inside temp of 120+ degrees F on the leather seats. Trust me, your spouse will thank you for being so considerate.
DrDan
Love that. It's so true. I live near Houston .
05-12-14, 03:56 PM
#14
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I bought my sunshades from AutoZone & they are perfect 
I recommend it
Jumbo size
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...uestid=5189342
I recommend it
Jumbo size
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...uestid=5189342
05-12-14, 07:37 PM
#15
DrDan, generally, you need to upload your pictures to a hosting site like Photobucket and use a link in your post. Copy the link and enter it into the box that pops up when you press the button that looks like a mountain photo above the box where you type a message.
