Hardwire Valentine V1 radar in 2010 RX350
#1
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Hardwire Valentine V1 radar in 2010 RX350
I know there are several articles out there on how to hardwire a radar but none that I've found so far for the 2010 RX350. So figure I'd add this for the 2010 RX350 owners. This install is for the V1 but it should be applicable for other radars as well.
First off, the supplies:
1) Radar: Valentine One
2) Hardwire stealth wire kit. Got it for $9.50 shipped from ebay.
3) Small flathead screwdriver
Now we move to the install. The rear view mirror is the most convenient location to tap into the switched power and ground.
**Note: the rear view mirror switched +12v powers on only when the engine is turned on and not the AC on
1) There should be a wire clamp holding the wire to the arm, you can pop that out to allow more room for movement (and to use later to hold your stealth wire).
2) Behind the mirror there is a small black cover over where the wire harness is plugged. Using a small flathead screwdriver, carefully pop it out by wedging it into the sides and pushing it out. This should now expose the wire harness.
3) Depress the clip above the wire harness which should allow you to pull it out. With the wire harness facing you, there are 2 rows of wires, 12 total.
Top L to R: Blue, Pink, Brown, Orange, Red, Black
Bottom L to R: Tan, White, Green, Yellow, Purple, Gray
4) On the top row you will be using the Black (+12V switched) and the Brown wire (Ground). With the stealth wiring kit, slide the stealth red wire into the back of the +12V switch (black) wire, and with the stealth black wire, slide in back of the mirror Ground (brown) wire.
**Note: the harness is a pretty tight fit so if you are using a stealth wiring kit, then it may be difficult at first trying to find that sweet spot and keeping the wire tips from overbending. After a while of trying I have found the easiest spot was slide the wire tips between the 1st and 2nd rows. Try to bend the wires for the two rows outward to make give some space between the wires. For example, try to bend the Brown and Green wires away from each other so you can get a bit of room to slide the wire tip between the Brown end. And then the same for the Black and Gray which should be easier since it’s on the edge of the harness.
5) Now plug the cord into the radar and test the power. Turn on the engine and the radar should power up. Once the power is confirmed, you can now start hiding the wires using the zip ties. Since my stealth wire was a few inches longer, I bunched it with the mirror's wire harness clamp which worked out perfectly.
I decided to mount the radar to the top left of the mirror which is a good location in my line of site. It's right behind the black layer which also keeps it hidden from onlookers when parked. Of course the radar placement is completely up to you.
The install was pretty simple and I think anyone can do it. Hope this helps other fellow 2010 RX350 owners...
First off, the supplies:
1) Radar: Valentine One
2) Hardwire stealth wire kit. Got it for $9.50 shipped from ebay.
3) Small flathead screwdriver
Now we move to the install. The rear view mirror is the most convenient location to tap into the switched power and ground.
**Note: the rear view mirror switched +12v powers on only when the engine is turned on and not the AC on
1) There should be a wire clamp holding the wire to the arm, you can pop that out to allow more room for movement (and to use later to hold your stealth wire).
2) Behind the mirror there is a small black cover over where the wire harness is plugged. Using a small flathead screwdriver, carefully pop it out by wedging it into the sides and pushing it out. This should now expose the wire harness.
3) Depress the clip above the wire harness which should allow you to pull it out. With the wire harness facing you, there are 2 rows of wires, 12 total.
Top L to R: Blue, Pink, Brown, Orange, Red, Black
Bottom L to R: Tan, White, Green, Yellow, Purple, Gray
4) On the top row you will be using the Black (+12V switched) and the Brown wire (Ground). With the stealth wiring kit, slide the stealth red wire into the back of the +12V switch (black) wire, and with the stealth black wire, slide in back of the mirror Ground (brown) wire.
**Note: the harness is a pretty tight fit so if you are using a stealth wiring kit, then it may be difficult at first trying to find that sweet spot and keeping the wire tips from overbending. After a while of trying I have found the easiest spot was slide the wire tips between the 1st and 2nd rows. Try to bend the wires for the two rows outward to make give some space between the wires. For example, try to bend the Brown and Green wires away from each other so you can get a bit of room to slide the wire tip between the Brown end. And then the same for the Black and Gray which should be easier since it’s on the edge of the harness.
5) Now plug the cord into the radar and test the power. Turn on the engine and the radar should power up. Once the power is confirmed, you can now start hiding the wires using the zip ties. Since my stealth wire was a few inches longer, I bunched it with the mirror's wire harness clamp which worked out perfectly.
I decided to mount the radar to the top left of the mirror which is a good location in my line of site. It's right behind the black layer which also keeps it hidden from onlookers when parked. Of course the radar placement is completely up to you.
The install was pretty simple and I think anyone can do it. Hope this helps other fellow 2010 RX350 owners...
Last edited by denkigroov; 04-08-10 at 09:30 AM. Reason: corrrection
#2
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Thanks. That's nice information to have.
I have always wired my cars for a V1, which I will move between them, and the wiring on my '04 (and on my '02 SC) is pretty much the same as you describe.
I have found, however, that I prefer placement to the right of the mirror to keep the V1 away from my face. I use a "Concealed Display" sitting on the left side of the dash (velcro) to keep the displays in front of me. This requires a separate (phone) wire to be run from the box located at the power source to the CD. In each instance, I just ran this around the edge of the windshield all the way down to under the dash, where the wire sits when not needed. When done at the same time as the initial wiring, this adds perhaps five minutes to the install time. Highly recommended, especially in a car with a large front interior like the RX.
When I upgrade to a "10 or beyond, this wiring info will be very helpful.
I have always wired my cars for a V1, which I will move between them, and the wiring on my '04 (and on my '02 SC) is pretty much the same as you describe.
I have found, however, that I prefer placement to the right of the mirror to keep the V1 away from my face. I use a "Concealed Display" sitting on the left side of the dash (velcro) to keep the displays in front of me. This requires a separate (phone) wire to be run from the box located at the power source to the CD. In each instance, I just ran this around the edge of the windshield all the way down to under the dash, where the wire sits when not needed. When done at the same time as the initial wiring, this adds perhaps five minutes to the install time. Highly recommended, especially in a car with a large front interior like the RX.
When I upgrade to a "10 or beyond, this wiring info will be very helpful.
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[QUOTE=denkigroov;5290735]3) Depress the clip above the wire harness which should allow you to pull it out. With the wire harness facing you, there are 2 rows of wires, 10 total.
Top L to R: Blue, Pink, Brown, Orange, Red, Black
Bottom L to R: Tan, White, Green, Yellow, Purple, Gray QUOTE]
Thanks for the detailed installation guide. I still have a few questions:
Were you sure there were just 10 wires in your connector block? My 2010 AWD has 12 wires. Also, is there a secret in how did you get the "Stealth Wire" pushed into the back of the plug? I have tried numerous times to no avail. The wire just bends and comes loose immediately, so I know I didn't get it inserted correctly.
Top L to R: Blue, Pink, Brown, Orange, Red, Black
Bottom L to R: Tan, White, Green, Yellow, Purple, Gray QUOTE]
Thanks for the detailed installation guide. I still have a few questions:
Were you sure there were just 10 wires in your connector block? My 2010 AWD has 12 wires. Also, is there a secret in how did you get the "Stealth Wire" pushed into the back of the plug? I have tried numerous times to no avail. The wire just bends and comes loose immediately, so I know I didn't get it inserted correctly.
#4
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Were you sure there were just 10 wires in your connector block? My 2010 AWD has 12 wires.
Also, is there a secret in how did you get the "Stealth Wire" pushed into the back of the plug? I have tried numerous times to no avail. The wire just bends and comes loose immediately, so I know I didn't get it inserted correctly.
(Also I used a pair of needlenose pliers to re-straighten the tips again if they got bent)
I updated the instructions for clarification. Good luck.
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Thanks OP for posting. I tried today on mine and it did NOT have the brown wire. I tested the wires from the rear view mirror and it's the black (+) and white (-) next to each other. It might be because vehicle wasn't equipped with navigation.
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thanks for the info.
in case anyone is interested, you can make your own stealth cord for the V1 using phone wire, computer connector pins, and shrink wrap. parts are available from radio shack or frys. check out this write up - http://www.clubarmada.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13132
i've always made my own stealth cords so i can swap my v1 into various cars without too much hassle.
in case anyone is interested, you can make your own stealth cord for the V1 using phone wire, computer connector pins, and shrink wrap. parts are available from radio shack or frys. check out this write up - http://www.clubarmada.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13132
i've always made my own stealth cords so i can swap my v1 into various cars without too much hassle.
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#11
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Someone slept through high-school physics. Regardless of the voltage, different devices draw different amps. If the amperage is too high, the wires will get hot; that's what fuses are for (the heat melts the wire in the fuse, which is thinner than the conductor to the device, and that breaks the circuit).
I would say that the answer to the GPS question is "probably," but you need to check what else is drawing power from the circuit you are tapping into, because if the total load (in amps) exceeds the fuse on that circuit, it will blow. Even though it's all 12 volts.
I would say that the answer to the GPS question is "probably," but you need to check what else is drawing power from the circuit you are tapping into, because if the total load (in amps) exceeds the fuse on that circuit, it will blow. Even though it's all 12 volts.
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Ok, so I need some additional help here. My plug going to the rear view does not have 12 wires with two rows of 6 wires. It has 10 wires with one row of 7 and one row of 3. Photos are attached.
Might anyone know which is the switched 12 volt and which is the ground? Thanks.
The car is a 2010 RX FWD with the intelligent high beams that i'm assuming this wire harness also feeds the sensor for.
Might anyone know which is the switched 12 volt and which is the ground? Thanks.
The car is a 2010 RX FWD with the intelligent high beams that i'm assuming this wire harness also feeds the sensor for.
#13
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We can't tell from here, but even if someone gave you an answer, it might not be accurate. You need to test the various lines. Use a simple tester, which is available from Radio Shack, or just wire up a 12v light bulb as a temporary tester. This way you will know exactly which lines are carrying 12v and whether they are always hot or switched with the ignition. And it's probably faster than waiting for someone here to make the first guess for you.
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We can't tell from here, but even if someone gave you an answer, it might not be accurate. You need to test the various lines. Use a simple tester, which is available from Radio Shack, or just wire up a 12v light bulb as a temporary tester. This way you will know exactly which lines are carrying 12v and whether they are always hot or switched with the ignition. And it's probably faster than waiting for someone here to make the first guess for you.
#15
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If you don't know how to find the ground in a car perhaps this task exceeds your abilities. Ground is virtually any metal in the car (frame), and the area where you are working has several screws that securely affix themselves to such a spot. These are excellent places to affix the ground side of your circuit. If you are looking for a wire that is ground, brown used to be the conventional color for the ground wire, although this is no longer universal, so you will have to check again with your tester. A 12v DC tester costs very little, and will save you tons of time, especially if you wire up your device incorrectly or blow a fuse trying to figure something out with insufficient data.