Spark Plug Recommendations?
#16
My mechanic is going to the do the job on Sunday and he also recommend NGK Iridium instead of Denso Iridium. He said lately NGK seems to have better quality than Denso. Any comment?
#17
My only complaint is the premium asked for Denso plugs vs NGK for the same heat range and material.
I find on other forums, it comes down to the part number reference why people gravitate towards NGK over Denso. NGK appears to an easier system to equate heat range scale.
example a Denso iridium IK22 equivalent in an NGK iridium would be a BKR7EIX.
People seem to like working with smaller numbers when discussing a heat range.
#18
Here is an update.
My mechanic did the water pump, serpentine belt replacement today. Total including new OEM water pump, Continental belt and labor charge is $450. He said the Conti belt is better quality than OEM. BTW, I supplied 2 jugs of Toyota pink coolant, which cost me $50 from Amazon. Total $500, no more rattling sound. He mentioned that the Thermostat was loose and he replaced it with a new one. I thought that was a fair deal at $500 total.
However, he did not replaced the spark plugs since he said the value gasket is starting to slowly leaking and he recommend not to change the spark plugs until 120k miles and replace the valve gasket at the same time along with 3 new ignition coils in the rear banks while he is in there. Otherwise if anyone of the coils goes bad, it is labor charge all over again. He did pulled one plug out from the front bank and it still looks good.
My mechanic did the water pump, serpentine belt replacement today. Total including new OEM water pump, Continental belt and labor charge is $450. He said the Conti belt is better quality than OEM. BTW, I supplied 2 jugs of Toyota pink coolant, which cost me $50 from Amazon. Total $500, no more rattling sound. He mentioned that the Thermostat was loose and he replaced it with a new one. I thought that was a fair deal at $500 total.
However, he did not replaced the spark plugs since he said the value gasket is starting to slowly leaking and he recommend not to change the spark plugs until 120k miles and replace the valve gasket at the same time along with 3 new ignition coils in the rear banks while he is in there. Otherwise if anyone of the coils goes bad, it is labor charge all over again. He did pulled one plug out from the front bank and it still looks good.
#19
However, he did not replaced the spark plugs since he said the value gasket is starting to slowly leaking and he recommend not to change the spark plugs until 120k miles and replace the valve gasket at the same time along with 3 new ignition coils in the rear banks while he is in there. Otherwise if anyone of the coils goes bad, it is labor charge all over again. He did pulled one plug out from the front bank and it still looks good.
#20
There is no reason to replace the ignition coils unless there is some evidence of arcing, damage, or consistent CEL codes related to misfires which new plugs can't correct. They are typically not a wearout throw away item. Improper gapping and seating of plugs are most often the cause of premature coil pack failure.
My mechanic told me that there is a good chance that the coils will NEVER fail, but if any one of those rear one do fail in the future, you are looking at the labor charge again. That's why he advise me not to replace the plugs until 120K miles. At 120K miles, the plugs should be replace together with the value cover gaskets and I choose to, as cheap insurance, he will replace the rear coils labor free if I supply him 3 coils for the rear (which I can get for $36 each at ebay (OEM 90919-A2007). I can save the 3 old coils in case one of the 3 front ones fails, which is pretty easy to change.
#21
I agree with your comment.
My mechanic told me that there is a good chance that the coils will NEVER fail, but if any one of those rear one do fail in the future, you are looking at the labor charge again. That's why he advise me not to replace the plugs until 120K miles. At 120K miles, the plugs should be replace together with the value cover gaskets and I choose to, as cheap insurance, he will replace the rear coils labor free if I supply him 3 coils for the rear (which I can get for $36 each at ebay (OEM 90919-A2007). I can save the 3 old coils in case one of the 3 front ones fails, which is pretty easy to change.
My mechanic told me that there is a good chance that the coils will NEVER fail, but if any one of those rear one do fail in the future, you are looking at the labor charge again. That's why he advise me not to replace the plugs until 120K miles. At 120K miles, the plugs should be replace together with the value cover gaskets and I choose to, as cheap insurance, he will replace the rear coils labor free if I supply him 3 coils for the rear (which I can get for $36 each at ebay (OEM 90919-A2007). I can save the 3 old coils in case one of the 3 front ones fails, which is pretty easy to change.
If it makes you feel more confident about your car to pre-emptively replace something that typically never needs replacing, by all means do it. Just pointing out its over $100 you really don't need to spend.
Rear coil pack replacement is not difficult and can be done in less than an hour of your time in the unlikely event one does fail.
#22
If it makes you feel more confident about your car to pre-emptively replace something that typically never needs replacing, by all means do it. Just pointing out its over $100 you really don't need to spend.
Rear coil pack replacement is not difficult and can be done in less than an hour of your time in the unlikely event one does fail.
Rear coil pack replacement is not difficult and can be done in less than an hour of your time in the unlikely event one does fail.
#23
I've also used Denso spark plugs, never had problem with them.
Replacement interval has been 90000km (56250miles)(Local Lexus recommendation) with Iridium ones.
Looks like you have going to replace coils with original parts. Good choice.
I have bad experience with other car. I wanted to save and bought aftermarket coil for Maxima (160K miles at coil failure). After the replaced coil failed third time during 2 months, I gave up and bought original one. Luckily it was very easy access to all coils unlike Rx.
Replacement interval has been 90000km (56250miles)(Local Lexus recommendation) with Iridium ones.
I agree with your comment.
My mechanic told me that there is a good chance that the coils will NEVER fail, but if any one of those rear one do fail in the future, you are looking at the labor charge again. That's why he advise me not to replace the plugs until 120K miles. At 120K miles, the plugs should be replace together with the value cover gaskets and I choose to, as cheap insurance, he will replace the rear coils labor free if I supply him 3 coils for the rear (which I can get for $36 each at ebay (OEM 90919-A2007). I can save the 3 old coils in case one of the 3 front ones fails, which is pretty easy to change.
My mechanic told me that there is a good chance that the coils will NEVER fail, but if any one of those rear one do fail in the future, you are looking at the labor charge again. That's why he advise me not to replace the plugs until 120K miles. At 120K miles, the plugs should be replace together with the value cover gaskets and I choose to, as cheap insurance, he will replace the rear coils labor free if I supply him 3 coils for the rear (which I can get for $36 each at ebay (OEM 90919-A2007). I can save the 3 old coils in case one of the 3 front ones fails, which is pretty easy to change.
I have bad experience with other car. I wanted to save and bought aftermarket coil for Maxima (160K miles at coil failure). After the replaced coil failed third time during 2 months, I gave up and bought original one. Luckily it was very easy access to all coils unlike Rx.
#24
I just have changed out all of them few weeks ago when truck hit 125K mile (195K km), To my surprise they are all look pretty good shape, so i assume they can safely work to 150K mile if fuel mileage doesn't get worse.
All original after 125K mile, not bad
Right one you may need, ~$7.50 each if my memory serves me right.
Old vs New
All original after 125K mile, not bad
Right one you may need, ~$7.50 each if my memory serves me right.
Old vs New
Last edited by 5W40; 06-20-15 at 12:38 PM.
#25
Lead Lap
iTrader: (10)
Neat, but many of us on here, like our cars to be optimal at all times.
I feel at 125k it was really pushing the limits of use though... It's like the warning labels on things, "don't take more than two..." same applies to car parts.
You can go over an interval, but optimal results will remain if they're changed by 'x interval'...
I did mine at ~115k KM's, and put in some fancy pants. 10$/plug NGK's.
I feel at 125k it was really pushing the limits of use though... It's like the warning labels on things, "don't take more than two..." same applies to car parts.
You can go over an interval, but optimal results will remain if they're changed by 'x interval'...
I did mine at ~115k KM's, and put in some fancy pants. 10$/plug NGK's.
#26
Yes, i must say I agree for optimal performance replacing them as manufacture's recommend interval is a good idea.
Manufacture's recommend change interval is 190K km or 120K mile for 2006 RX330 AWD which I found in owner's manual.
Manufacture's recommend change interval is 190K km or 120K mile for 2006 RX330 AWD which I found in owner's manual.
#27
Thx for the pictures and comments guys.
I plan to have the spark plugs, rear 3 ignition coils for the rear and the seeping valve cover gaskets done when it reach 120k miles. Heck I might even get it done sooner since the gasket is leaking, fortunately it is not leaking into the exhaust or other items, I am just putting it off for now.
I plan to have the spark plugs, rear 3 ignition coils for the rear and the seeping valve cover gaskets done when it reach 120k miles. Heck I might even get it done sooner since the gasket is leaking, fortunately it is not leaking into the exhaust or other items, I am just putting it off for now.
#28
I notice you guys are using Denso SK20R11, but my 08 350 specifically ask for FK20HR11, which I already bought. Is there a difference? The cheapest I found in Amazon is $10 each.
#29
2006 RX330 AWD owner's manual shows that DENSO SK20R11 & NGK IFR6A11 GAP:1.1mm(0.043 in.) will fit
I think that manual's specification should be the first place to check if you wanna stick with stock spec..
I have a 1995 model LS400 which was manufactured actually at OCT 1994, the owner's manual says that GAP is 0.8mm (0.031 in.), but you can buy DENSO with 1.1mm and 0.8mm both on the market, and the interesting thing is that Dealer put in 1.1mm after my timing belt service.
Well all LS model made after Feb 1995 use 1.1mm gap may be the reason!
I did changed out the plug and replaced with right DENSO gap, but unfortunately I don't think I feel any big different like power or fuel efficiency. but scientifically it should show some different.
Just my 2 cents
I think that manual's specification should be the first place to check if you wanna stick with stock spec..
I have a 1995 model LS400 which was manufactured actually at OCT 1994, the owner's manual says that GAP is 0.8mm (0.031 in.), but you can buy DENSO with 1.1mm and 0.8mm both on the market, and the interesting thing is that Dealer put in 1.1mm after my timing belt service.
Well all LS model made after Feb 1995 use 1.1mm gap may be the reason!
I did changed out the plug and replaced with right DENSO gap, but unfortunately I don't think I feel any big different like power or fuel efficiency. but scientifically it should show some different.
Just my 2 cents
Last edited by 5W40; 06-20-15 at 04:01 PM.