Rear wheel hub bearing removal TIP
#1
Driver School Candidate
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Rear wheel hub bearing removal TIP
For those that want to replace their rear hubs /bearings.
I was able to change out the wheelhubs/bearings in less than 30 minutes.
Tips. These will save you hours of time and much frustration.
1. Drum/rotor will be stuck . GET Two screws that fit the threaded holes to pop off the drum.
2. Use two small screwdrivers (flathead) to pop off the abs sensor plug. One to press down the clip and one to lever off the plug.
3. Th is is the most important tip. It is more than likely that the wheel hub bearing assembly will be corroded to your backing plate. You can spend hours trying to take it off and end up destroying your backing plate. taking apart the emergency brakes , and make a huge mess because it will be corroded on and stuck so badly.
Here is the trick that I did. It took less than 5 minutes to take it apart. and put in the new hub bearing assembly.
Use a big hammer and knock off the hub with the backing plate. ....the hub assembly will be frozen onto the backing plate more times than not..
then. from the backside (where the abs sensor is located) i soaked it with some pb blaster and used an old bearing race that i had kept from doing the front bearings. It fits perfectly over the back of the rear portion of the
hub assembly. It allows you to pound the hub assembly evenly to pop it off of the backing plate.. I used a small 5 pound sledge hammer and it just took a couple of good whacks and it popped right off.
If you don't have a bearing race then you need to find something similar. I large collar of some sort. something like a giant socket maybe. Or do your front bearings first and keep the outer race to do your rear bearings.
Good luck . hope that this saves you lots of time , effort and frustration.
I was able to change out the wheelhubs/bearings in less than 30 minutes.
Tips. These will save you hours of time and much frustration.
1. Drum/rotor will be stuck . GET Two screws that fit the threaded holes to pop off the drum.
2. Use two small screwdrivers (flathead) to pop off the abs sensor plug. One to press down the clip and one to lever off the plug.
3. Th is is the most important tip. It is more than likely that the wheel hub bearing assembly will be corroded to your backing plate. You can spend hours trying to take it off and end up destroying your backing plate. taking apart the emergency brakes , and make a huge mess because it will be corroded on and stuck so badly.
Here is the trick that I did. It took less than 5 minutes to take it apart. and put in the new hub bearing assembly.
Use a big hammer and knock off the hub with the backing plate. ....the hub assembly will be frozen onto the backing plate more times than not..
then. from the backside (where the abs sensor is located) i soaked it with some pb blaster and used an old bearing race that i had kept from doing the front bearings. It fits perfectly over the back of the rear portion of the
hub assembly. It allows you to pound the hub assembly evenly to pop it off of the backing plate.. I used a small 5 pound sledge hammer and it just took a couple of good whacks and it popped right off.
If you don't have a bearing race then you need to find something similar. I large collar of some sort. something like a giant socket maybe. Or do your front bearings first and keep the outer race to do your rear bearings.
Good luck . hope that this saves you lots of time , effort and frustration.
#2
A pneumatic hammer also works well to rotate the bearing assembly from the hub. Folks that live in winter climates probably have it worse because all of the road salt, etc. almost "welds" these two pieces together. I use a pneumatic hammer to rotate the bearing assembly one way a little bit, then back the other way. After a few times, the pieces usually separate as expected. I understand that not everyone owns a pneumatic hammer, but if you have one or can borrow one, use it.
If it has been awhile since you last removed your rear rotors, there is probably a lip of rust that goes around the entire rotor hub, right next to where the emergency brake shoes are located. This lip of rust makes it difficult to remove the rotor because the brake shoes have to go over the lip. Once you have the rotors off, do yourself a favor and grind the rust lip off and bevel the rotors so that it is easier to remove them next time. Again, this is probably more of a problem for snow climate folks.
Several of our Acura's use a pad for their emergency brake and not brake shoes. The Acura design makes maintenance easier, because that lip rust usually means the emergency brake shoe stuff explodes and needs replaced when the rear rotors get removed.
If it has been awhile since you last removed your rear rotors, there is probably a lip of rust that goes around the entire rotor hub, right next to where the emergency brake shoes are located. This lip of rust makes it difficult to remove the rotor because the brake shoes have to go over the lip. Once you have the rotors off, do yourself a favor and grind the rust lip off and bevel the rotors so that it is easier to remove them next time. Again, this is probably more of a problem for snow climate folks.
Several of our Acura's use a pad for their emergency brake and not brake shoes. The Acura design makes maintenance easier, because that lip rust usually means the emergency brake shoe stuff explodes and needs replaced when the rear rotors get removed.
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