robotmak

I have a upcoming 180k service prepaid at lexus dealership. It's basically a 90k and I want to add water pump and additional belts as suggested by this forum. The question is should I have lexus complete the work based on their price on parts and labor? Furthermore, should I have them perform transfer case and differential fluids even though he says its long life fluids. right now, the front differential and transfer case is wet but not dripping (indicates it's gasket leak)

180k prepaid service includes: (we would hold off on the tire rotation)
a/c filter
air filter
brake fluid flush
engine coolant
oil and filter
timing belt

The Transfer case and Differential fluids I would recommend to leave alone as these are long life fluids.

If you are planning to do additional items I would recommend Option 1. There is a lot of labor overlap while doing the Timing Belt, if you do the cam and crank seals
Water pump, drive belts and tensioners.

Water pump w/gasket $470.00 after taxes
Cam seals and Crank seal $278.00
Thermostat w/gasket $288.00
Timing belt idler/tensioners no additional labor only part price
13503-0a010 $123.11
13505-20030 $137.82
13540-20030 $81.25

Drive Belts no additional labor
90080-91088-83 $8.15
99366-21040-83 $38.33

1 additional item would be the PCV valve which you listed in your option 2 list which is $60.00

Spark plugs I would just wait until the recommend mileage at 240,000 miles

robotmak

should I have lexus dealer replace the cam seal, crank seal, and thermostat w/ gasket in addition to water pump when replacing timing belt?

kickin8

iTrader: (1)

I would get OEM parts and see how much a reliable mechanic charge for labor.....

robotmak

If there is no input, I will have lexus perform the 90k service and add just the water pump and the belts.

I will hold off on the thermostat, crankshaft, and camshaft till it leaks.

I will install the PCV Valve later on my own time.


Best Regards,
Dennis

hypervish

At 180k miles, I'd have them replace the cam and crank seal. You don't want to have to tear into there again for at least another 90k miles.

You won't save much, if any money changing the thermostat right now so I'd hold off on that till you have an issue with it.

neelnaik

It really depends on how long you are wanting to keep the car, and how much you are willing to spend on maintenance.

If you are looking to keep the car for a long time, I would do timing belt, both aux drive belts, water pump, cam and crank seals, thermostat, and the transfer case and rear differential fluids as well.

I would have an independent shop (or even a lube shop that you trust) to do the transfer case and differential fluid changes. It shouldn't cost more than $10-$20 each to do if you bring your own fluid, as they are super simple to do, as it's just a drain and fill. Just pick up your own 80w-90 fluid. You need 1 qt each, but might want to pick up 3 quarts total just in case. Stick to a name brand and you will be fine there. It's a long life fluid in that most dealers only replace them every 100K or so. I change mine out every 30K or so, because the idea of oil sitting that long scares me a little (a lot).

If the dealer is doing the timing belt and water pump, you want them to do the seals at the same time for sure. The labor to replace a crank or cam seal if it starts leaking down the road is the same as doing a timing belt. It doesn't make sense to not do it at 180K.

The reason I say do the thermostat now is because it's way in there, and you have to drain the coolant to replace it. To replace the water pump, you have to drain the coolant anyway, so might as well just do it while you are at it. Toyota coolant is kinda pricey. But other than the cost of coolant, you aren't saving any money, so I guess it's a toss up.

Some people like doing the spark plugs every 90K instead of 120K. It doesn't really make a difference. You're are not saving any money at all by doing plugs now, as it's not any easier to do them now versus later.

The 3.3 L (3MZ-FE) engine has a manual tensioner if I remember right. I don't think I've heard of one going bad yet, but if they aren't going to charge you any extra labor for it, you might as well do it.

I haven't heard of anyone having any issues with the PCV valve on the 3MZ yet, so I wouldn't necessarily worry too much about it, but I suppose it's cheap insurance.

Other things that you may or may not need (depending on your regular maintenance):
Power steering fluid flush (or just siphon and refill regularly like me and several other members here like to do)
Brake fluid flush (should be done every 2 years or so. Brake fluid LOVES moisture and draws it in from the air)
Transmission fluid (either a drain and fill, or a flush, or not even touch it. Don't ask me which to do, as that is a heated argument.)
I think that's all I can think of at the moment that aren't items that normally come to (most people's) mind(s) with regular maintenance.

Also, if you haven't replaced your struts yet, you are past due and want to do that as well. They are expensive, I know, but if you want to keep this vehicle long term, it is well worth the improvement in ride quality.


Side note: when the belts are replaced on the 3MZ, you generally have to use the tensioner and you have to move the power steering pump slightly to provide the tension needed. As the belts loosen a little over the first couple thousand miles, they can squeal when you start the engine. If that happens, just take it back in and they should retension the belts without charging you.

Another side note: On the 3MZ, one of the upper (I think) engine mount bolts that has to come undone can be a you-know-what to get out, and often has to be drilled out. This is common, and is nothing to worry about. It will be fine even without it.

Hope this helps.