bjmarsh67

Hi all,
I need to install the TO package on my RX350 2008 model, does anyone know if I REALY need to purchase the converter box to make it work. There's nothing in the install download instructions that mention the converter box. However, on the TO part description it says that if I don't have the original factory TO I have to get the converter box.
Any and all help is appreciated,
Thanks

Packrat1

I too have an RX350 2008. Before you buy the Lexus hitch I would highly suggest you check out the curtmfg.com hitch. This is the one I went with as it is flush with the bumper where the Lexus one sticks out quite a bit further. If you take the ball hitch piece off the Curt mfg one doesn't stick out but the Lexus one does. You can easily see what the Lexus one looks like by going to the used car division of your local lexus dealer or go to the service dept. The curt hitch fits perfect. I did buy the Lexus plastic plug to put in when the ball is not installed.

defo

iTrader: (6)

From what I have read in the past, if you don't use the converter, you MAY have dash lights appear, with regards to the rear brake and signal lights.......the converter allows the trailer wiring/lights to operate without displaying dash lights due to the extra power draw.

bjmarsh67

@ Defo, thanks for the clarification of what MAY happen. I'm going to go ahead and try it without the converter box. If it turns out to be problematic then I'll definitely reconsider and pick one up.

bjmarsh67

Packrat1, thanks for the heads up. I'm going to go with the curtmfg.com hitch as well. You just saved me a bundle for something that will perform the same function and will LOOK even better. Pretty sure I'll pick up the Lexus plug for the hitch receiver too :0)

dcdyd

I did it my self with following instructions. I just brought normal trailer lights connector with raw cables. The package comes with the items you need in order to connect two cables by using hand tools.

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1. Start at the back of the carpet liner/board from the edge of the back seats. There are 2 small flaps on the ends held by velcro. Peal them up and then start to lift the board, working to the center. There are 5 clips that just pop out with the board once you start pulling up. Once up, you will see 2 black 12mm bolts under the board near the wheel wells. These hold the hinges for the large lid that covers the jack. Undo those and pull out the whole lid/board.

2. At the front of the jack tray are 2 round plastic clips. Use a flat screw driver to gently pry up one side then stick your finger in there and pry the other side. Use you finger to stop that side going back down when prying the other side. You'll know what I mean when you try it. They are just push in/pull out clips. Now lift the entire jack tray out. Don't get your hopes up when you lift the jack tray and see a gromet to the left. It's not the one. The gromet you want is right under the left storage bin.

3. Next, push the 2 buttons to lift the lids for the front large tray. You should see 2 more black push clips. They are towards the sides. Remove those and the large tray should pull right out.

4. Only remove the left front tray lid. You will see 2 black 12mm bolts in the front and 2 gold 12mm nuts in the back. Use a deep 12mm or wrench for the back 2 nuts. Remove lid.

4. Next, pull up the plastic lip that has the 2 buttons for the storage lids and also hides the rear door latch reciever thingy. I think (I cant remember) there are 2 black clips on the sides. Remove those. It is also held by 5 or 6 of the clips like on the rear liner you first removed. Start from one side working to the other. Use many fingers to evenly destribute lifting pressure. As you move along, and clips pop up, you will need to push the big square black buttons that pull in the storage bin lid latches. The latches will get in the way of lifting the plastic piece out. Remove piece.

5. Now the last piece. The left storage bin has a black push clip near where the jack tray corner was . Next, you'll see a black nut at the bottom of the tray. First, remove the pull handle for the manual fuel door release and velcro it back up on the carpet on the side. Then just using your hand, twist and pull the black plastic nut counter-clockwise. Use tools gently on it if you need. I think it's a 12 mm, but don't quote me. It's really just a fancy push nut that you should be able to pull right off. Remove tray.

6. You should be able to see the groment that you need. Push it through if you haven't done it from the bottom yet. Pull the harness up and flex the new gromet like a semi circle to get it inside. Then push it back through part way and fiddle with it to get it seated in the hole. Make sure it is not crimped or pushed through too far.

7. You should see a white plug coming from the car's harness right above the groment. This is the plug you want. Make sure your plug clicks into place correctly. You don't want to go through this again if the plug pops out, do you???

8. Test the trailer hitch plug if you can. I didn't, but I have faith. If you can you probably should.

9. When putting everything back together, keep it in the reverse sequence you pulled it out. The plastic nut that lives at the bottom of the left storage bin just pushes on. When reinstalling the back plastic lip piece, try to get it under the black rubber seal before pushing down on it. If any of the seal is caught under it use a flat head screw driver to gently pry it out. If it is caught really well under there, I'd just lift the piece and try it again.

10. Reverse order is:
Left tray, black plastic nut, 1 black clip, reattach fuel door handle.
Rear plastic lid piece, push down all snaps, 2 black clips
Left lid, 2 black bolts front, 2 gold nuts rear.
Front large tray, 2 black clips.
Jack tray, 2 black clips.
Jack tray lid, 2 black bolts.
Fold back board/liner and push down on clips and velcro ends.

Your done. Not hard at all.

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Instruction is from cdduqu

bjmarsh67

Dcdyd, AWESOME step by step. Thank you!