alchemist

iTrader: (1)

My wife's car is a 2006 FWD and has 113k miles now and it was time to change the tranny filter. I did a drain and fill using 4 qts at 80k miles. Plenty of DIY out there for just drain and fill for tranny fluid so I will skip most of the basics.

Below is my experience in doing this. I would rate it on a scale of 1-10 with 10 being most difficult probably a 4 only because there a 4 bolts on the tranny pan (driver's side) that are really difficult to access. Total time is ~3hrs.

Disclaimer: Attempt at your own risk. This is the method that I found most useful and efficient – yours may differ and may not be the exact as described herein. As with any do-it-yourself project, unfamiliarity with the tools and process can be dangerous. This project should be construed as theoretical advice.***I will not be held responsible for any injury or engine failure due to the misuse or misunderstanding of this DIY project****.

Stuff needed:
safety glasses
5 quarts type IV toyota fluid
allen wrench
10mm ratchet wrench
10mm socket
tranny pan gasket - can buy on Rock Auto or ebay
tranny filter with o-ring (I bought a Wix brand filter, it came with O ring) - can buy on Rock Auto or ebay



As you can see the Wix is a paper filter


Drain plug (allen wrench needed)


The next two pics - I was trying to show some of the tranny pan bolts that are buried closely to the frame of the vehicle on the driver's side. This is where you need the ratchet wrench





once the plug is loosened fluid start to flow freely


I made sure to catch all fluid in a tray or pan so I could measure it later and replace with the exact amount that came out


Fluid is not bad - still bright red


Now on to the pan. Most bolts are easy access except 4 on the driver's side. You cannot get a basic socket set to them, so here is the adjustable ratchet wrench I used. And worked from above the frame.


Here you can see the relationship between the frame and the pan. Work above the frame. It also may be easier to remove your front driver's wheel/tire. One of the bolts next to the engine mount is a real pain in the ****.




Once I loosened all the bolts and pulled the pan, it is pretty dirty



So are the magnets...


All clean. I replaced the gasket as well. I would suggest going ahead and putting bolts in the pan at all four corners BEFORE you reinstall to help hold the gasket. It does not lay flat like the old one (look at first picture above). This helps keep in place.


Now to the filter. 3 bolts, all 10m. They are not tight.

***Be careful here. Another half quart of fluid comes out once filter is removed!***


Look at the difference between old and new - filthy. The old filter was covered in metal shavings, similar to the magnets.


Here, I am measuring the old fluid into a used 5 quart oil jug.


EXACTLY 4.5 quarts. This is what I replaced. Had some splash spillage when I removed the pan, but I still put 4.5 qt in and will check level later tomorrow.


Put everything back together the reverse it came off. Do NOT overtighten! I think the filter bolts are only 8lb ft of torque. Just snug up the pan bolts. Trick: work one side to the other. tighten a bolt in one corner then work your way to the other corner. Or start on one side then the other.

Need skinny funnel for the dipstick tube for new fluid.


Add new fluid.



Hope this helps.

kiwi

what did you spend on the filter? how much was the dealer one?

alchemist

iTrader: (1)

Got wix, o-ring and gasket off ebay for $20 to my door

RX330inFL

From RockAuto the WIX filter kit is $13 plus shipping.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...282&cc=1421312

There are other brands and kits for a bit more. Would expect the OEM to cost somewhere north of $60 for just the filter, though YMMV.

dcdyd

Great write up. Should be a sticky.

alchemist

iTrader: (1)

yes and correct me if I am wrong but isn't the OEM filter a metal screen not a paper filter?

alchemist

iTrader: (1)

By the way, here is a pic of the O-ring. It goes on the other side of the filter in this picture. It ultimately fits between the filter and the transmission.

Denvermgb

Thanks for the write-up! Perhaps I missed this but what was the total time to complete the fluid/filter change?

alchemist

iTrader: (1)

I would set 3 hours aside. If you just do the fluid and NOT the filter - 30 minutes.

defo

iTrader: (6)

Agreed....good write-up!

gr8fulRed

at what point (mileage) will you consider doing this procedure to your GS? I'm at 75k and would like to replace fluid AND filter. I haven't seen a DIY for this anywhere yet.

neelnaik

Yet another great write up alchemist! Added to the DIY thread.

05RX330AWD

Excellent write up, one more item for my "To Do Jar", found the necessary parts as a kit on Ebay.....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Auto-Trans-Filter-Kit-WIX-58010-/182248148132?hash=item2a6ed60ca4:g:3UMAAOSwTglYmJmd&vxp=mtr
although just wondering if there are any updates as far as improved performance & any issues as possible leaking since this DIY was completed some years ago.
Also I am assuming for a AWD RX330 the procedure should be the same.

alchemist

iTrader: (1)

No issues whatsoever...no leaks, strange shifting etc. Smooth as silk. 160,000 miles on car now. AWD is similar but you have to take into consideration transfer case.

05RX330AWD

The update is greatly appreciated.
Doubtful the transmission fluid was ever changed with 138,000 miles on the clock, the fluid is a wine color.
Although no issues for shifting or leaks, better to do this DIY to avoid transmission issues down the road.