Cargo Hatch Switch Replacement How-To with Pics
09-20-13, 12:10 PM
#1
Cargo Hatch Switch Replacement How-To with Pics
As many of us members have noted, the rubber covering on the cargo hatch switch seems to become rubbery and fail over time.
Ours was hanging away from the switch and recently came off on one side, so i pulled the piece off, and ordered a replacement switch (the rubber cover is not sold separately, you must buy the entire assembly).
I bought the switch from Sewell Lexus ($48.89 + shipping to CL member), you should always check their site, they seem to always offer the best prices.
This procedure is very easy, and it took me about 25 minutes start to finish.
I used the following tool and items:
Panel poppers (helpful, but not required)
Phillips screwdriver
10mm box-end, ratcheting wrench
Needle nose pliers
Small flat-head screwdriver, to scrape-off some residue
Rubbing alcohol and rag
This is the new switch
This is the original switch, with the failing rubber cover removed
With cargo hatch open, you want to remove the cover panels, the carpeted, and the plastic sections are two separate pieces
I started with just the lower, carpeted piece, thinking I would not need to remove the top piece, but I was wrong, you need to remove both.
They are held in-place with snap-in plastic pieces, by pulling gently from the edges, they will "pop" free. The panel poppers helped, but you can certainly remove them by hand.
This partially shows the plastic snap before "popping" it out.
This is the same snap, once "popped" free.
Remove the entire top panel.
The cargo light, inside the top panel, will need to be disconnected.
Then remove the lower panel, and disconnect the switch connector shown in the photo
There are five 10mm nuts that secure the rear trim panel, to the hatch itself, remove them.
Once the nuts are removed, you will need push the switch grommet, on the switch wire, through the hole, so it can be removed.
Next you will need to squeeze the white holding tab, and carefully remove the rear trim piece (note, you have to pull the hatch down, with one arm behind, and one in front, once the tab is released, you can work with both hands on the outside of the vehicle).
Trim panel removed.
Remove the 2 screws.
Turn over the trim, and squeeze the tabs on the old switch, while pushing the switch assembly out, don't worry about breaking the tabs.
Here is the old switch next to the new one
With the switch out, I noticed some remains of the deteriorated old switch, this stuff was very gooey, and sticks to everything, in hindsight, I recommend gloves for this next "cleaning" step.
I used a small flat-head screwdriver to remove most of the goop, then cleaned it with a rag and rubbing alcohol.
Now, insert the new switch, placing the wiring in the guideways.
Turn over and replace the 2 screws.
Reassemble everything in reverse order, and you are done (note when snapping the interior trim panels back in place, the lower, carpeted panel, must be installed before the upper, plastic panel).
New switch!
Ours was hanging away from the switch and recently came off on one side, so i pulled the piece off, and ordered a replacement switch (the rubber cover is not sold separately, you must buy the entire assembly).
I bought the switch from Sewell Lexus ($48.89 + shipping to CL member), you should always check their site, they seem to always offer the best prices.
This procedure is very easy, and it took me about 25 minutes start to finish.
I used the following tool and items:
Panel poppers (helpful, but not required)
Phillips screwdriver
10mm box-end, ratcheting wrench
Needle nose pliers
Small flat-head screwdriver, to scrape-off some residue
Rubbing alcohol and rag
This is the new switch
This is the original switch, with the failing rubber cover removed
With cargo hatch open, you want to remove the cover panels, the carpeted, and the plastic sections are two separate pieces
I started with just the lower, carpeted piece, thinking I would not need to remove the top piece, but I was wrong, you need to remove both.
They are held in-place with snap-in plastic pieces, by pulling gently from the edges, they will "pop" free. The panel poppers helped, but you can certainly remove them by hand.
This partially shows the plastic snap before "popping" it out.
This is the same snap, once "popped" free.
Remove the entire top panel.
The cargo light, inside the top panel, will need to be disconnected.
Then remove the lower panel, and disconnect the switch connector shown in the photo
There are five 10mm nuts that secure the rear trim panel, to the hatch itself, remove them.
Once the nuts are removed, you will need push the switch grommet, on the switch wire, through the hole, so it can be removed.
Next you will need to squeeze the white holding tab, and carefully remove the rear trim piece (note, you have to pull the hatch down, with one arm behind, and one in front, once the tab is released, you can work with both hands on the outside of the vehicle).
Trim panel removed.
Remove the 2 screws.
Turn over the trim, and squeeze the tabs on the old switch, while pushing the switch assembly out, don't worry about breaking the tabs.
Here is the old switch next to the new one
With the switch out, I noticed some remains of the deteriorated old switch, this stuff was very gooey, and sticks to everything, in hindsight, I recommend gloves for this next "cleaning" step.
I used a small flat-head screwdriver to remove most of the goop, then cleaned it with a rag and rubbing alcohol.
Now, insert the new switch, placing the wiring in the guideways.
Turn over and replace the 2 screws.
Reassemble everything in reverse order, and you are done (note when snapping the interior trim panels back in place, the lower, carpeted panel, must be installed before the upper, plastic panel).
New switch!
09-20-13, 01:48 PM
#2
Great write up!
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09-29-13, 07:16 PM
#9
09-30-13, 01:33 AM
#10
You MUST remove every piece that I did, just to get the old switch out, and put the new one in. So splicing wires would be an extra, and totally unnecessary step.
From the photos you will see that the switch is connected/mounted to the rear trim piece, that also covers the license plate lights. That piece is secured to the lift gate, and what may not be clear from the photos, is there is no opening/hole, to access the switch, from the inside area of the lift gate.
10-01-13, 05:13 AM
#11
There is no reason to splice wires, not on the RX at least (I have heard about others doing a splice, but I think it was on a GS).
You MUST remove every piece that I did, just to get the old switch out, and put the new one in. So splicing wires would be an extra, and totally unnecessary step.
From the photos you will see that the switch is connected/mounted to the rear trim piece, that also covers the license plate lights. That piece is secured to the lift gate, and what may not be clear from the photos, is there is no opening/hole, to access the switch, from the inside area of the lift gate.
You MUST remove every piece that I did, just to get the old switch out, and put the new one in. So splicing wires would be an extra, and totally unnecessary step.
From the photos you will see that the switch is connected/mounted to the rear trim piece, that also covers the license plate lights. That piece is secured to the lift gate, and what may not be clear from the photos, is there is no opening/hole, to access the switch, from the inside area of the lift gate.
10-01-13, 10:51 PM
#12
I didn't know the switch can only be taken out after everything has been removed. I assumed there is a little play in the wire where you could remove the 2 screws, pull the switch out a little just enough to splice the wires with the new unit, and then put the switch and 2 screws back without having to remove everything. Learn something new everyday
11-02-13, 07:48 AM
#13
defo, great writeup and pics. I haven't had any problems with mine but I live up here in the Midwest where I have yet to hear of anyone having this problem. Terrific job on pics and description.
