Headlight went out
#1
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
Headlight went out
So my right headlight went out due to condensation i believe. Ive gotten the right headlight replaced before due to condensation under warranty and now the condensation has happen agian and the headlight totally went out today. Do you guys know what I can do? Its 07 RX 400h
#2
Driver School Candidate
The bulb is difficult, but not impossible to replace. On the right-hand side (passenger in US) you'll need to remove the plastic cover over the engine compartment to access it. On my '05 RX you use a phillips screwdriver to remove the two closest to the firewall, and the two in the front need to have their center buttons pushed down, then remove the plastic push-locks. The low beam lamp is in the compartment with the large light-gray/white circular cover. I believe you can simply rotate the gray/white disk counter-clock-wise to remove it, then remove the power connector from the lamp by loosening the large spring-clips. The bulb can then be rotated counter-clock-wise to remove it.
Do not touch the bulb's glass surface as fingerprints contain oil which will transfer to the bulb creating a "hot-spot" (as the oils cook) that can destroy the bulb.
The best way to verify that the bulb and not the ballast is the problem is to swap bulbs from side to side to ensure that the failure follows the bulb. If the bulb from the right works on the left and the working bulb from the left doesn't work on the right - and assuming you've checked all the fuses before getting to the part about pulling the bulb out FIRST - then it's likely to be a ballast rather than a bulb problem.
The ballast is relatively easy to change if you're at all handy with a couple of hand-tools and smart enough to employ three baggies in which to put the bolts and plastic fasteners for the three discrete items that need removal, you won't have too many problems. I've taken pictures of the whole process for a left-side ballast replacement and will post them here for a sticky, in the next day or two.
Best of luck, and if you can check the bulb then odds are you can also replace the ballast. Dealer prices for both the bulb and the ballast are pretty high while after-market prices are much more reasonable: about $125 for a new ballast (includes shipping), and I've read that $150 is high for a bulb, BUT, that when it comes to bulbs there are a lot of Chinese knock-offs that are either different colors than stock, don't last as long, are of poorer construction, etc. so let's see who responds on the bulb side of things here.
Paul
Do not touch the bulb's glass surface as fingerprints contain oil which will transfer to the bulb creating a "hot-spot" (as the oils cook) that can destroy the bulb.
The best way to verify that the bulb and not the ballast is the problem is to swap bulbs from side to side to ensure that the failure follows the bulb. If the bulb from the right works on the left and the working bulb from the left doesn't work on the right - and assuming you've checked all the fuses before getting to the part about pulling the bulb out FIRST - then it's likely to be a ballast rather than a bulb problem.
The ballast is relatively easy to change if you're at all handy with a couple of hand-tools and smart enough to employ three baggies in which to put the bolts and plastic fasteners for the three discrete items that need removal, you won't have too many problems. I've taken pictures of the whole process for a left-side ballast replacement and will post them here for a sticky, in the next day or two.
Best of luck, and if you can check the bulb then odds are you can also replace the ballast. Dealer prices for both the bulb and the ballast are pretty high while after-market prices are much more reasonable: about $125 for a new ballast (includes shipping), and I've read that $150 is high for a bulb, BUT, that when it comes to bulbs there are a lot of Chinese knock-offs that are either different colors than stock, don't last as long, are of poorer construction, etc. so let's see who responds on the bulb side of things here.
Paul
#3
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
The battery on my car also need to be replaced so im hoping that if i replace the battery , then the problem would be just from lack of electricity. Im hoping thats the case
#4
Lexus Test Driver
#5
Driver School Candidate
And, "oh, by the way," if you do have to replace the ballast with a new OEM unit, seal it with RTV around the edges where that tinny "pushed-in then secured with a screw" plate mates up with the heavier part of the case, so no water can get in again. Also seal around the area where the cables and connectors go into the side of the ballast's main case to keep water from getting in around there as well. Should last forever - assuming it's the ballast and not a blown bulb. It's okay to be sloppy, just as long as it's sealed and will still slip under the plastic mounts that hold the ballast.
And seriously, a new battery isn't going to make any difference since when the vehicle is on, voltage is supplied by the alternator and the battery is being charged (accepting electricity) rather than providing it.
And seriously, a new battery isn't going to make any difference since when the vehicle is on, voltage is supplied by the alternator and the battery is being charged (accepting electricity) rather than providing it.
#6
Lexus Champion
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