Anyone change the steering rack/pinion themselves?
07-23-12, 07:23 AM
#1
Anyone change the steering rack/pinion themselves?
You could probably save quite a bit as a re-manufactured one is $300-400. Most dealers are charging $1100-1500 for install (including parts). haven't checked other shops but would guess $750-1000.
Anyone? Any DIY?
Anyone? Any DIY?
07-25-12, 05:53 PM
#6
The next one I do at work, I'll try to take some pics to create a DIY...
There are some tips/tricks that are extremely helpful in getting it out easily!
I am a current Lexus Mechanic and would be more than happy to help a DIYer
There are some tips/tricks that are extremely helpful in getting it out easily!
I am a current Lexus Mechanic and would be more than happy to help a DIYer
07-25-12, 08:07 PM
#7
I concur. I have done two. The lines are fairly accessible and easy to disconnect. The bolts that old the rack are easily accessible as well. The tricky part is the steering linkage and keeping the steering wheel straight and removing the tie rod ends and reinstalling them properly. If you have high mileage, replace your tie rod ends while you have it apart.
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07-25-12, 10:47 PM
#9
You can purchase reman racks fairly easily. NAPA, for example, sells them.
http://napaonline.com/Catalog/Catalo...692_0333886102
http://napaonline.com/Catalog/Catalo...692_0333886102
08-05-12, 02:24 PM
#12
GTown, as weird as it may sound... you will need a 14mm, 19mm (1/2" drive) and a 1/2" drive long ratchet or breaker bar...
The rear subframe mounts have two 14mm head bolts, and one 14mm nut on them as well as the main 19mm bolt. Take the three 14mm pieces off the the plates. Then it is time for the 19mm bolts. Take the driver side loose and take it completely out, then thread it back in about 6-7 full threads, so make 6-7 full rotations of the bolt.
Then take and loosen the passenger side. You can undo that bolt until the subframe rests on the bolt on the driver side...
Two reasons for doing this...
One is you get more clearance between the subframe and body to get the rack out of the driver side wheel well...
It is also helpful when knocking the intermediate shaft off of the rack. When you go to put the new rack in... it is also easier to get the knuckle of the intermediate shaft back on.
Racks at work are on backorder until end of August, early September... so it will be a while before I can take pictures... but when I get the chance, I'll take pictures to show you what I mean
The rear subframe mounts have two 14mm head bolts, and one 14mm nut on them as well as the main 19mm bolt. Take the three 14mm pieces off the the plates. Then it is time for the 19mm bolts. Take the driver side loose and take it completely out, then thread it back in about 6-7 full threads, so make 6-7 full rotations of the bolt.
Then take and loosen the passenger side. You can undo that bolt until the subframe rests on the bolt on the driver side...
Two reasons for doing this...
One is you get more clearance between the subframe and body to get the rack out of the driver side wheel well...
It is also helpful when knocking the intermediate shaft off of the rack. When you go to put the new rack in... it is also easier to get the knuckle of the intermediate shaft back on.
Racks at work are on backorder until end of August, early September... so it will be a while before I can take pictures... but when I get the chance, I'll take pictures to show you what I mean
The following 2 users liked this post by ELITech:
Bogey2 (09-25-20),
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08-07-12, 05:50 PM
#13
