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I am confused, we all have disc brakes in the rear. Are they just discussing a rear drum brake?
So am I, mandyfig. Thought all 2nd generation had disc all around. Why I provided the link I did. Had used it as as refresher when I replaced my rear pads awhile back.
Had they wanted to talk drum brakes, have done a ton of those in my time. Both my Datsun and Chevelle have them.
Usually, drum brakes self adjust when you are backing up and using the brakes. They can be hand adjusted as well usually through a slot in the drum as shown in the diagram.
No, the parking brake is inside the disc brake on our vehicles (and a lot of others recently - my previous 2006 Honda Odyssey and my wife's 2010 Chevrolet Equinox is this type). The 'hat' of the rotor is acutally a drum inside and the parking brake is a drum brake type assembly inside the hat. They are NOT self adjusting and are a bit simpler to work on than a regular drum brake (you can see the difference in the two diagrams I posted)
I personally find them to be a pain and prefer the parking brakes that actually apply the caliper pads, though I'm seeing less and less of that type lately. They also have their own share of problems - if something goes wrong, you're looking at a new caliper or at least a rebuild of the original.
When I am at home and can access my service manual, I will post up a picture of our systems, so you can see what I'm talking about. Or just look at the diagram from toyotanation and imagine that whole mess of parts INSIDE the hat of your rotor.
You know, I never bothered to look much when I did my last brake work. Think I have used the parking brake twice in eight years and those were only to test to see if it worked.
Understood you were talking about parking brakes, just could not put all the pieces together. Sorry.
salimshah, are you sure that the parking brake is self adjusting. I know that regular drum brakes are, but having looked extensively at my components, I see no way that the star nut can turn without manual intervention (i.e. me turning it myself).
If you look at the toyotanation diagram (which looks very similar to the system in my RX400h) from the earlier link (which I've posted below), you will see the 'parking brake shoe lever'. Compare this to the other diagram that I'm posting here ("Typical Drum Brake Parts), and you will see an additional component = the 'adjusting lever' which we don't have on our parking brake system, as it's not a full function drum brake, but a parking brake inside a rotor.
The typical diagram is pretty representative [the wheel cylinder will not be there]. As I dont own the same model as yours, so I can only make a educated guess. The self adjustment is not very complicated and its presence or absence should not cause you additional headaches.
The part marked as adjustment lever is the thing that turns the start-nut. The mechanism is sweet as the shoes have to move more than the minimum to kick the start by a notch.
I don't know how much simpler I can make my posts. THERE IS NO SELF ADJUSTMENT ON OUR PARKING BRAKES. I have taken mine apart and confirmed this (also confirmed via the service manual).
You are telling people to apply the parking brake fully and release several times so they will self adjust. They will not. They must be adjusted manually, via the adjuster (star wheel), and if needed via the adjuster at the foot pedal.
Salimshah, you continue to disagree with me regarding this. Would you like to me to remove my rotors and take a picture, or is the fact that I've taken mine apart and physically observed that there is no adjusting lever enough to convince you?
I don't know how much simpler I can make my posts. THERE IS NO SELF ADJUSTMENT ON OUR PARKING BRAKES. I have taken mine apart and confirmed this (also confirmed via the service manual).
You are telling people to apply the parking brake fully and release several times so they will self adjust. They will not. They must be adjusted manually, via the adjuster (star wheel), and if needed via the adjuster at the foot pedal.
Salimshah, you continue to disagree with me regarding this. Would you like to me to remove my rotors and take a picture, or is the fact that I've taken mine apart and physically observed that there is no adjusting lever enough to convince you?
I have no problem in being educated by any one, but it has to be after some one quotes from the service manual or after some one has opened it up.
Thank you for correcting me.
Are you sure one did not remove the adjust lever?
Salim
I have no problem in being educated by any one, but it has to be after some one quotes from the service manual or after some one has opened it up.
Thank you for correcting me.
Are you sure one did not remove the adjust lever?
Salim
Believe me, I wish there was one in there. Then I wouldn't have to be tinkering around adjusting it. I'd still like to know how the pads wear considering the rotor is usually not turning when the pads are applied.
Is the rotor rusted to the hub by chance? When your are reinstalling, a good coat of anti-seize on the flange of the hub (that the rotor fits over) will prevent this in the future. I also put anti seize where the wheel mounts to the rotor. And, as I also found out, some anti-seize or high temp grease on the adjuster (star nut) mechanism will prevent that from seizing.
In fact, if you look a the toyotanation diagram, it show where you should put high temp grease (definitely where the pads rub the backing plate, or you will get horrible squeeling - been there done that).
I'm replacing the parking brake shoes now and I'm at the step where the instructions say "Install Parking Brake Shoe Lever". It says to measure the clearance when a shim and c-washer are installed and if it's more than 0.25mm replace the shim with a thicker one. Then 5 part numbers are listed for shims of different thicknesses from 0.3mm to 0.9mm(see image of instructions attached). I'm using Wagner shoes and I can't fit any shims between the lever and the c-washer at all. When I removed the lever from the old shoe there was a 0.4mm shim but the post where the lever attached on the Wagner shoes must be slightly shorter than the ones on the shoes that were previously on the car. My question is, is it okay to not use any shim at all? The space between the lever and the c-washer is already less than 0.25mm and I can't fit even a 0.3mm shim in there. I assume the reason for the shim is to reduce play in the lever so I think I'm okay not using a shim but just wanted to check if maybe a shim is required to help the lever rotate easier. If a shim is required then I think I will have to exchange the shoes because then they must be out of spec. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
The new shoes are thicker than the toyota shoes. But as long as you have some clearance and it is not more than the .25mm, you are fine without a shim.
12-16-14, 11:51 AM
