Bleeding procedure on 2006 Rx400h
#1
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Bleeding procedure on 2006 Rx400h
I have a 2006 Rx400h that I just completed a brake job and I went to flush the brake fluid the conventional way..big mistake! I need to know if anyone knows how to do this correctly because now I only have braking power in the left front wheel.
No fluid pressure getting to rear brakes and all the brake, trac, ABS & VSC warning/message lights are on. I need to find out how to operate the ABS actuators without using a $8000 Lexus scanner. My Mac scanner does ABS codes but not for this Lexus.
Any information will be helpful.
Thanks,
Michael
No fluid pressure getting to rear brakes and all the brake, trac, ABS & VSC warning/message lights are on. I need to find out how to operate the ABS actuators without using a $8000 Lexus scanner. My Mac scanner does ABS codes but not for this Lexus.
Any information will be helpful.
Thanks,
Michael
#2
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I was assured that the bleed the air out process still works without the actuator. It may take a bit longer.
The standard is you bleed the farthest point from the reservoir and work your way to the closest.
Single person bleed kits are available, but I have always worked with a partner. People swear by the vacuum assist bleeders, but I have not used one.
Salim
ps: it is a moot point, how did you let the air get in? If you follow the bleeding process, you should never get the air in.
The standard is you bleed the farthest point from the reservoir and work your way to the closest.
Single person bleed kits are available, but I have always worked with a partner. People swear by the vacuum assist bleeders, but I have not used one.
Salim
ps: it is a moot point, how did you let the air get in? If you follow the bleeding process, you should never get the air in.
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There is no air in the system, when I tried to flush out the system and reached the left front caliper the boost motor kicked in and about a cup of brake fluid shot out. I thought nothing of it until I noticed all the warning lights had come on.
The brake light, ABS, trac control and VSC warning message all were illuminated. I took the vehicle for a test ride and only the left front wheel had braking power. I tried to bleed the back brakes but no fluid came out. The actuators in the ABS are shutting off the fluid to the rears and partially to the right front.
Only the left front wheel is working correctly, I need to reset the ABS actuators without a scan tool. My scan tool does Asian ABS but not Lexus, I read where this information was still proprietary. But I was wondering if anyone knew how to reset the actuators without a scanner.
Thanks,
Mike
The brake light, ABS, trac control and VSC warning message all were illuminated. I took the vehicle for a test ride and only the left front wheel had braking power. I tried to bleed the back brakes but no fluid came out. The actuators in the ABS are shutting off the fluid to the rears and partially to the right front.
Only the left front wheel is working correctly, I need to reset the ABS actuators without a scan tool. My scan tool does Asian ABS but not Lexus, I read where this information was still proprietary. But I was wondering if anyone knew how to reset the actuators without a scanner.
Thanks,
Mike
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I know in my BMW the dealer has to do it because your ABS system actuators have to be all forced to open-leaving a clear passage way for all the wheels brake calipers.
as for Lexus Im going to assume its the same way. So if this is the case with lexus-then the only way will be to take the dealer or major chain brake specialist.
you might want to disconnect its electrical connectors and then plug it again and see if that resets it- but being that our cars are so sensitive to errors codes - I would cation that procedure.
as for Lexus Im going to assume its the same way. So if this is the case with lexus-then the only way will be to take the dealer or major chain brake specialist.
you might want to disconnect its electrical connectors and then plug it again and see if that resets it- but being that our cars are so sensitive to errors codes - I would cation that procedure.
#6
#7
It's time to replace the brake fluid in my RX 350. I was going to use the conventional pump brake, refill reservoir method. But then I stumbled into this thread which implies bleeding the rear brakes is different than the front brakes on an ABS-equipped car.
I recently bled the 2008 Honda van and the procedure was the same for all 4 wheels: just pump brake, refill reservoir.
Post #6 above pointed to another forum where the posts there said the rear brakes bleeding required turning on the ABS system to remove air from the ABS.
That got me to ask why is there a need to remove air from the ABS.
1) The fluid in the reservoir comes in contact with the air/moisture, so it has to be removed.
2) The fluid near the brake caliper is boiled by the heat from the braking action, so it has to be removed.
3) The fluid in the ABS actuator is not in contact with heat or air/moisture. Unless I let the reservoir goes dry while bleeding, there is no way air could get into the ABS system.
So the fluid in the ABS doesn't have to be replaced, unless I want to do that.
Can anyone comment on the 3 points above ?
The people in the GS forum said that you need to turn ignition to ON to power up the brake distribution system, otherwise the brake fluid won't flow to the 2 rear wheels. Then just press the brake and the pump will push the fluid out.
Can anyone who had successfully bled the brake on the RX 350 confirm that the rear brakes require above step ?
Thanks.
I recently bled the 2008 Honda van and the procedure was the same for all 4 wheels: just pump brake, refill reservoir.
Post #6 above pointed to another forum where the posts there said the rear brakes bleeding required turning on the ABS system to remove air from the ABS.
That got me to ask why is there a need to remove air from the ABS.
1) The fluid in the reservoir comes in contact with the air/moisture, so it has to be removed.
2) The fluid near the brake caliper is boiled by the heat from the braking action, so it has to be removed.
3) The fluid in the ABS actuator is not in contact with heat or air/moisture. Unless I let the reservoir goes dry while bleeding, there is no way air could get into the ABS system.
So the fluid in the ABS doesn't have to be replaced, unless I want to do that.
Can anyone comment on the 3 points above ?
The people in the GS forum said that you need to turn ignition to ON to power up the brake distribution system, otherwise the brake fluid won't flow to the 2 rear wheels. Then just press the brake and the pump will push the fluid out.
Can anyone who had successfully bled the brake on the RX 350 confirm that the rear brakes require above step ?
Thanks.
Last edited by txt; 03-19-11 at 06:08 AM.
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#8
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Although almost all brakes are hydraulic but not all systems are same.
GS uses electrical pump and you dont need to pump the pedal.
If there is air in the system, then there is always ONE preferred way for each system. Since the ABS system is in the way, it can prevent free flow of fluids in every path making the standard bleeding process painful. [people with patience and time can use gravity based bleeding too .. that is another story].
Are you actually trying to remove air from the system or simply trying to purge & fill (without introducing air in the system).
For purge&fill, just make sure the bleeder is closed before you let up on the pedal and every thing will work.
Extention of gravity air bleed process is pressurized fill process and the pump ($50+) can solve all problems.
Salim
Answer to your question: Hydraulic Fluid is a liquid. The molecules can travel all the way from reservoir to the caliper-piston and back. Notice the fluid in the reservoir turns brakish ... almost like the one that is purged from the bleeder.
GS uses electrical pump and you dont need to pump the pedal.
If there is air in the system, then there is always ONE preferred way for each system. Since the ABS system is in the way, it can prevent free flow of fluids in every path making the standard bleeding process painful. [people with patience and time can use gravity based bleeding too .. that is another story].
Are you actually trying to remove air from the system or simply trying to purge & fill (without introducing air in the system).
For purge&fill, just make sure the bleeder is closed before you let up on the pedal and every thing will work.
Extention of gravity air bleed process is pressurized fill process and the pump ($50+) can solve all problems.
Salim
Answer to your question: Hydraulic Fluid is a liquid. The molecules can travel all the way from reservoir to the caliper-piston and back. Notice the fluid in the reservoir turns brakish ... almost like the one that is purged from the bleeder.
Last edited by salimshah; 03-19-11 at 08:30 AM.
#9
Salim,
For the RX 350, I want to purge and fill w/o introducing air into the system.
Glad to hear that I don't need to activate the ABS actuator to bleed the rear.
I bled the Honda Odyssey w/o help using this inexpensive tool I bought on Ebay.
http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/...brake_bleeder/
For the RX 350, I want to purge and fill w/o introducing air into the system.
Glad to hear that I don't need to activate the ABS actuator to bleed the rear.
I bled the Honda Odyssey w/o help using this inexpensive tool I bought on Ebay.
http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/...brake_bleeder/
#10
Moderator
Although I have rx300, for 350, you should be ok following standard bleeding procedure to purge old fluid.
Salim
Salim
#12
Moderator
Sadly I have no data to give you.
Salim
#13
There is no traditional brake booster on the RX because it's a hybrid, and the engine isn't always running to provide vacuum for the booster. Instead there is a 'stroke sensor' connected to the brake pedal that activates an electric pump to provide boost for the hydraulic system. The boost is based on how much 'stroke' the sensor receives.
You can't bleed the system the same way as on a traditional non hybrid. Unless you can figure out how to activate the electric pump, the hybrid RX will have to taken to the dealer to be bled properly by connecting the service computer thingy via the OBDII port.
The RX350, on the other hand, can be bled in the traditional manner.
You can't bleed the system the same way as on a traditional non hybrid. Unless you can figure out how to activate the electric pump, the hybrid RX will have to taken to the dealer to be bled properly by connecting the service computer thingy via the OBDII port.
The RX350, on the other hand, can be bled in the traditional manner.
#14
Moderator
All systems have a return path for fluid when the pedal is not depressed. Run out in disc pushes the fluid back.
So direct pressure on the reservoir works without pumping the pedal. There are pump kits available.
Salim
So direct pressure on the reservoir works without pumping the pedal. There are pump kits available.
Salim
#15
I have the service manual for my 400h and the only procedure it shows is hooking up the diagnostic computer and cycling the electric pump. Are you sure a bleed kit hooked up to the master reservoir will work? What if this return path also needs the electric motor to allow the fluid to return?
Last edited by rcy; 03-22-11 at 01:33 PM.