Rx330 Brake Pads replacement
#63
The parking brake (or e-brake if you prefer) on this vehicle is a drum built into the disc complete with it's own drum pads. The piston should push right back into the caliper like the fronts.
The only time you need the special tool to rotate the piston back into the caliper is when the parking brake mechanism actually uses the caliper/pads to hold the car. I don't know the specific details, but when the parking brake is applied in this type of system, a mechanical mechanism pushes out the piston to put pressure on the pads against the disc and hold the car. For whatever reason, the piston must be 'screwed' back into the caliper - something to do with that mechanism that pushes out the piston.
The only time you need the special tool to rotate the piston back into the caliper is when the parking brake mechanism actually uses the caliper/pads to hold the car. I don't know the specific details, but when the parking brake is applied in this type of system, a mechanical mechanism pushes out the piston to put pressure on the pads against the disc and hold the car. For whatever reason, the piston must be 'screwed' back into the caliper - something to do with that mechanism that pushes out the piston.
#64
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I have a 2005 RX330 and need to replace the front brake pads. This is my first time and I'd like to save some money so I plan on staying away from the dealerships and ordering the parts myself. Can anyone offer some advice as to where to shop and what types (manufacturer) of pads I should be looking for/staying away from?
I've found a set of Akebono ProACT Ceramic Pads at tirerack.com for 63/set. Can anyone comment on those pads?
Thanks!
I've found a set of Akebono ProACT Ceramic Pads at tirerack.com for 63/set. Can anyone comment on those pads?
Thanks!
#66
Moderator
Thread Starter
Ceramic brake pads are ok, but it means you will eat up the rotor than the pads. I would suggest using the OEM type. Remember, braking is transferring energy, from rotational to heat. The concept is to use up the pads and keep the rotors until end of life (below minimum thickness) as long as the rotors do not warp.
Ceramic will tend to create more heat than OEM (just an opinion) and therefore will affect the rotors. That is why you have cross slotted rotors...primarily to dissipate the heat build up. If you can not diddipate the heat...the rotors warp, more expense to replace and then you start feeling the vibration when braking.
My 2 cents.
Ceramic will tend to create more heat than OEM (just an opinion) and therefore will affect the rotors. That is why you have cross slotted rotors...primarily to dissipate the heat build up. If you can not diddipate the heat...the rotors warp, more expense to replace and then you start feeling the vibration when braking.
My 2 cents.
#67
Ceramic brake pads are ok, but it means you will eat up the rotor than the pads. I would suggest using the OEM type. Remember, braking is transferring energy, from rotational to heat. The concept is to use up the pads and keep the rotors until end of life (below minimum thickness) as long as the rotors do not warp.
Ceramic will tend to create more heat than OEM (just an opinion) and therefore will affect the rotors. That is why you have cross slotted rotors...primarily to dissipate the heat build up. If you can not diddipate the heat...the rotors warp, more expense to replace and then you start feeling the vibration when braking.
My 2 cents.
Ceramic will tend to create more heat than OEM (just an opinion) and therefore will affect the rotors. That is why you have cross slotted rotors...primarily to dissipate the heat build up. If you can not diddipate the heat...the rotors warp, more expense to replace and then you start feeling the vibration when braking.
My 2 cents.
#68
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Thread Starter
Or else, you can use ceramic but have to replace the rotors at the same time. Special rotors should work well if the ceramic pads were designed in. Do some research, always helps.
#69
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How long (how many miles) are you getting out of a set of rotors? I've got 55k on our 2004 RX and need to do the pads all around. I was planning to do the rotors (not sure if they've ever been done before, CPO bought with 24k) this time just to know they are fresh.
I was thinking about Axxis Ceramic Pads and Brembo rotors. Can anyone tell me how long your rotors last and do you "turn" them every time you change the pads or not? Also, anyone have suggestions on the best pad / rotor combo? I've been really happy with Axxis pads and Zimmerman rotors on my 97 BMW. Obviously Zimmerman doesn't make a rotor for the Lexus, so I was thinking Brembo, but am open to other suggestions and opinions. Same for the pads...
Thanks all - and great pics and info in this post!
I was thinking about Axxis Ceramic Pads and Brembo rotors. Can anyone tell me how long your rotors last and do you "turn" them every time you change the pads or not? Also, anyone have suggestions on the best pad / rotor combo? I've been really happy with Axxis pads and Zimmerman rotors on my 97 BMW. Obviously Zimmerman doesn't make a rotor for the Lexus, so I was thinking Brembo, but am open to other suggestions and opinions. Same for the pads...
Thanks all - and great pics and info in this post!
#70
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I just had my pads put on at 60k and all they had to do was turn the rotors. $350 for both ends had the same pads put back on that came with the car but if you want to put more money than that into a 6 year old car go for it what ever makes you happy there old bud.
#71
I have a 2004 w/ 59k miles. At 40k the factory pads were worn and the rotors looked fine. I changed fronts and rears with ceramic pads. That was a mistake. The car did not have the stopping power of the factory pads and I noticed some rotor wear. Ceramic pads don't have the stopping force of semi-metalic. I just finished doing the brakes again even though there was plenty of friction material left. I figured the cost of the parts was less then my deductable if I were to hit someone. So unless you plan on bringing your RX to the track, stick with the factory parts.
Mandyfig, thanks for all of you photos and diagrams. It was good to have them for reference.
Mandyfig, thanks for all of you photos and diagrams. It was good to have them for reference.
#72
Moderator
Thread Starter
Rotors as long as they are not warped nor scoured, and minimum thickness is ok, good to go. If pads are replaced consistently rotors can last a long time.
The thing is to inspect them periodically. Take a peak evey month.
The thing is to inspect them periodically. Take a peak evey month.
#73
Moderator
Thread Starter
I have a 2004 w/ 59k miles. At 40k the factory pads were worn and the rotors looked fine. I changed fronts and rears with ceramic pads. That was a mistake. The car did not have the stopping power of the factory pads and I noticed some rotor wear. Ceramic pads don't have the stopping force of semi-metalic. I just finished doing the brakes again even though there was plenty of friction material left. I figured the cost of the parts was less then my deductable if I were to hit someone. So unless you plan on bringing your RX to the track, stick with the factory parts.
Mandyfig, thanks for all of you photos and diagrams. It was good to have them for reference.
Mandyfig, thanks for all of you photos and diagrams. It was good to have them for reference.
2ndly, you are welcome. Good that people use this as reference, at least they can feel safe that they have done the right procedure.
#74
How long (how many miles) are you getting out of a set of rotors? I've got 55k on our 2004 RX and need to do the pads all around. I was planning to do the rotors (not sure if they've ever been done before, CPO bought with 24k) this time just to know they are fresh.
I was thinking about Axxis Ceramic Pads and Brembo rotors. Can anyone tell me how long your rotors last and do you "turn" them every time you change the pads or not?...
I was thinking about Axxis Ceramic Pads and Brembo rotors. Can anyone tell me how long your rotors last and do you "turn" them every time you change the pads or not?...
For pad/rotor combinations I only go with OEM. I don't care for ceramic pads or upgraded rotors unless you have a high end sports car which I believe my car isn't (of course it is driven by a granny). Shh, don't tell her I just called her that.
#75
I turned the rotors this time around because there was a pulsation while braking and they definitely showed wear from the pads. I also bled the brakes, tried to get out as much of the old fluid as possible. Used up one quart of fluid. Had to do this before my helper returns to college.