Rx330 Brake Pads replacement

[mandyfig]

For me...very tight and tight.

[968racer]

Originally Posted by tromly

+1, wonder if the stealership does this when they test drive the car ?? My service advisor never mentioned it to me

There's no way the dealer would bed the brakes. I take my cars on a country road where there's no traffic. Some people may not have this luxury. It's really fun to do and puts a smile on my face. Be sure you don't have any loose cargo that can fly forward as you're mashing on the brakes.

[968racer]

Originally Posted by mandyfig

For me...very tight and tight.

+1 Never had one loosen up.

[mandyfig]

Really like them tight. But sometimes you have to let go a bit!

[968racer]

I also keep in mind that the next time I change them that I don't want to be busting my knuckles or pounding on the wrench to break them free. I try to remember to put some anti-freeze compound on the bolts too.

[LEXEHAM]

I changed my rear pads today, with the help from this forum. The job took about one hour. I ordered the parts from Sewell and I included the fit kit but not the shim kit. I have a 2005 with 68K. Thanks Mandyfig for your excellent posts.

[mandyfig]

Yes, anti-seize is your friend.

[mandyfig]

Originally Posted by LEXEHAM

I changed my rear pads today, with the help from this forum. The job took about one hour. I ordered the parts from Sewell and I included the fit kit but not the shim kit. I have a 2005 with 68K. Thanks Mandyfig for your excellent posts.

You are welcome, just giving back. Have learned a ton from this forum!

[biff44]

Originally Posted by 968racer

There's no way the dealer would bed the brakes. I take my cars on a country road where there's no traffic. Some people may not have this luxury. It's really fun to do and puts a smile on my face. Be sure you don't have any loose cargo that can fly forward as you're mashing on the brakes.

You do not have to go nuts doing this. All you are doing is heating the brakes up to drive out any solvents and prevent them from glazing from your first panic stop. Just go out and drive 30 mph with the brakes draging. After they heat up sufficiently, let them cool down. Then do it again. You can do it in city driving.

[mandyfig]

Bedding, from what I understand is for high performance, heavy duty braking. The stop and go type. Mainly for commercial use.

If you are just making sure that the solvent and/or sealer is off the steel, as recommended above should be fine right?

[968racer]

Originally Posted by biff44

You do not have to go nuts doing this. All you are doing is heating the brakes up to drive out any solvents and prevent them from glazing from your first panic stop. Just go out and drive 30 mph with the brakes draging. After they heat up sufficiently, let them cool down. Then do it again. You can do it in city driving.

You're also transfering a small layer of pad to the rotor. If driving the resins out was the only objective, this would eventually be done on normal braking. To get the most out of your brakes, bedding should be done.

[968racer]

Originally Posted by mandyfig

Bedding, from what I understand is for high performance, heavy duty braking. The stop and go type. Mainly for commercial use.

If you are just making sure that the solvent and/or sealer is off the steel, as recommended above should be fine right?

Yes, it is used much more commonly on high performance vehicles but can be beneficial for all cars with new rotors & pads.

[andrewr]

I just replaced the front pads and this diy was very helpful. Here are some notes:

After removing the wheel, I stared at the pad assembly for some time, not realizing how to remove the pad. Finally I wedged a screwdriver between the pad and rotor and gently pried it out.

I didn't have the correct socket for the lug nuts, so I couldn't torque them properly. We are getting the tires done today, so not an issue. Anyone know the socket size?

Thanks to Pohanka (dealer), the brake fluid was well over the max line, so I had to remove quite a bit. Anyone know how to properly dispose of this stuff?

I used a c-clamp to compress the caliper piston. This worked ok but I was concerned about how the rubber seal had bunched up.

I put some anti-squeal lube between the shims and pad. I assumed this is where it is supposed to go, as opposed to on the shim, which was dry.

Getting the clip onto the inner pad was a little tricky.

I used the car jack to raise the car. Piece of cake. Was going to use my fancy hydraulic jack but I couldn't find a good place to put the safety stands and you can't leave a hydraulic under load.

Overall, an easy job and saved $300 over what toyota was charging. Hate to know how much lexus charges.

[mandyfig]

Just to remind some people that there is this DIY.