Dash cam install, 2008 RX 350, Hardwiring
#1
6th Gear
Thread Starter
Dash cam install, 2008 RX 350, Hardwiring
Hey Lexus folks.
I have a 2008 RX 350. I installed the Rexing V1P Max dash cam, front and rear. Currently I’m using the 12v plug to power the cam, but if I want to use the parking mode features I need to connect the hardwire cable to the driver-side fuse box (I have the hardwire kit).
Anybody have experience hardwiring a dash cam to my specific model Lexus? This job looks like a bear on this vehicle. Any direction would be greatly appreciated!
Omar A.
I have a 2008 RX 350. I installed the Rexing V1P Max dash cam, front and rear. Currently I’m using the 12v plug to power the cam, but if I want to use the parking mode features I need to connect the hardwire cable to the driver-side fuse box (I have the hardwire kit).
Anybody have experience hardwiring a dash cam to my specific model Lexus? This job looks like a bear on this vehicle. Any direction would be greatly appreciated!
Omar A.
Last edited by Pdiddler; 06-05-22 at 07:01 PM.
#2
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...0-project.html
Page #1 - post 12, was pretty simple on my 08 350
Page #1 - post 12, was pretty simple on my 08 350
#4
I was able to get parking mode on my friend’s Chrysler by also hooking the third wire (for parking mode) on a power source that was constant. There is definitely a pin in there that is constant. I’ll go dig up my wiring diagram and send it to you after work.
1 - Ground wire
2 - Positive wire (to IGN/ACC on)
3 - Positive wire (to constant power)
1 - Ground wire
2 - Positive wire (to IGN/ACC on)
3 - Positive wire (to constant power)
#5
6th Gear
Thread Starter
My question is more along the lines of accessing the driver’s side fuse box. Looking for a step-by-step on how to cable from the dash cam to the fuse box, mainly, removing panels, strips, etc., to more easily access the fuse box. 🙂
#6
I would recommend skipping the fuse box, I did it this way on my 2014 RX350 and it was a heck of a lot more work and a lot more cable wasted.
If you do want to go that route though, it’s not impossible. You’re supposed to route the wire behind the a-pillar and behind the air bag for safety reasons, then I’d use wire clips or zipties to fasten the 5V adapter wire to the existing harness.
You’ll need to then remove the door seal and fish it down the driver’s side of the dash. The panels aren’t too tight so you can feed it through without complete removal.
If you do want to go that route though, it’s not impossible. You’re supposed to route the wire behind the a-pillar and behind the air bag for safety reasons, then I’d use wire clips or zipties to fasten the 5V adapter wire to the existing harness.
You’ll need to then remove the door seal and fish it down the driver’s side of the dash. The panels aren’t too tight so you can feed it through without complete removal.
#7
I was able to get parking mode on my friend’s Chrysler by also hooking the third wire (for parking mode) on a power source that was constant. There is definitely a pin in there that is constant. I’ll go dig up my wiring diagram and send it to you after work.
1 - Ground wire
2 - Positive wire (to IGN/ACC on)
3 - Positive wire (to constant power)
1 - Ground wire
2 - Positive wire (to IGN/ACC on)
3 - Positive wire (to constant power)
Could you please provide some additional images of how you wired the dashcam into the that roof wiring? it isn't really clear how you've done it.
I need to fit a similar model of dash cam and I'd like to get the parking mode working.
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#8
I'll take some more pictures tomorrow, I have the headliner down for sound deadening so it's a perfect opportunity to get some better pics. I used a wire stripper and carefully stripped a little bit of shielding off the wires, they're really thin at 22 AWG so you'll need a pretty small tool for clearance and for precision. You could use a knife like some people I know like to do, but knowing me I'd probably cut my finger off trying that.
It really is that simple, you need to probe the connector to check for power and then just tap off that wire by means of soldering, crimping, etc. I would recommend you put a connector in like how I did it, as I have seen these dashcam 5v converters die before, and nothing is worse than having to undo your work and re-solder a new one in, it's so much nicer to just put a connector on the new assembly and plug it right in.
It really is that simple, you need to probe the connector to check for power and then just tap off that wire by means of soldering, crimping, etc. I would recommend you put a connector in like how I did it, as I have seen these dashcam 5v converters die before, and nothing is worse than having to undo your work and re-solder a new one in, it's so much nicer to just put a connector on the new assembly and plug it right in.
#9
Hi Matt,
That would be great.
I think I might cut the relevant wires and then join/tee using some Wago connectors.
The Wago website states they're compatible with '0.08 to 25 mm2 (28 to 4 AWG)'
https://www.screwfix.com/p/wago-222-...-50-pack/76776
That would be great.
I think I might cut the relevant wires and then join/tee using some Wago connectors.
The Wago website states they're compatible with '0.08 to 25 mm2 (28 to 4 AWG)'
https://www.screwfix.com/p/wago-222-...-50-pack/76776
#10
Those Wagos are real nice, they look compact enough to fit up there too.
Wire coming from the 5V step-down to the cam itself
From the cam, snaked through the headliner and to the little 5V box. Make sure that the wire isn't in the way of any screw holes or the housing or it'll get pinched a little like mine did, I'll move it off to the side before I reassemble everything
Here is the connector I tapped off of with the pin #s referenced in my RX350 Project thread, the wires going to it have a connector which goes to the 5V box for easy replacement / removal
Wires soldered and covered with Tesa tape
Wire coming from the 5V step-down to the cam itself
From the cam, snaked through the headliner and to the little 5V box. Make sure that the wire isn't in the way of any screw holes or the housing or it'll get pinched a little like mine did, I'll move it off to the side before I reassemble everything
Here is the connector I tapped off of with the pin #s referenced in my RX350 Project thread, the wires going to it have a connector which goes to the 5V box for easy replacement / removal
Wires soldered and covered with Tesa tape
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grimer (08-18-22)
#12
Legend:
Blue - Ground
Red - IGN on
Green - Constant power
I used pin #16 for ground and pin #23 for IGN on power, the rest are other noteworthy pins that you could use
NOTE: This is for a 2007-2009 RX350, it may be different on other models but I doubt it. I would double check with a multi-meter as well just in case
Blue - Ground
Red - IGN on
Green - Constant power
I used pin #16 for ground and pin #23 for IGN on power, the rest are other noteworthy pins that you could use
NOTE: This is for a 2007-2009 RX350, it may be different on other models but I doubt it. I would double check with a multi-meter as well just in case
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grimer (08-18-22)
#13
You can access the first two screws by opening the sunglasses holder, they are sitting behind panels that can be opened with a tiny trim tool or flatblade screw driver. The next set of screws are under the dome light glass, which you also have to pop off. I found it easier to remove it from the left side and then finish it off by hand. It's easier with an extra set of hands and pry tools. After that, you will see the final two screws which are on the assembly itself. After that, it'll pop right out.
#14
I have currently installed three dashcams on 2nd gen RXs now (my 08 Japan-made an 07 Canadian-made 350 and an 06 400h) and can confirm the pinout is the same! The battery / constant wires work great for parking mode!
EDIT: Do not try to fit a Viofo A229 on the driver side! You will have contact with the rearview mirror
EDIT: Do not try to fit a Viofo A229 on the driver side! You will have contact with the rearview mirror
Last edited by MattRX; 12-15-23 at 04:40 PM.
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