DIY 2005 RX330 Mudguards pictures......
05-12-07, 09:12 AM
#46
lextranny, I sent you a PM, thanks. mandy
05-12-07, 10:37 AM
#47
I have seen that at least 2 have purchased from irontoad.com, is this a good vendor? His pricing seems the lowest around.
05-12-07, 12:30 PM
#49
Already did! Thanks! Can not wait to get my goodies....
07-16-07, 06:35 AM
#50
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I just finished this project on my RX. Came out great!
Tips for those of you that haven't done it yet...
- Buy a 4mm hex bit for your socket wrench. You could use an allen wrench, but the rachet is much faster! I bought a 6 piece set of metric hex bits, 3/8" drive, for $20. There are 12 screws (8 in the box, plus 4 existing on the car) with this kind of head on them.
- Two other screws have a 10mm hex head. If you don't have metric sockets, you should!
- Don't bother with the metric drill bits. They call for 3mm for the pilot holes, and 9mm for the finished holes. 9mm is a hair under 3/8", which is huge. You don't need anything like that... the screws are nowhere near that big. I did great with 1/8" pilot holes and 1/4" finished holes. You just have to make sure the spring nuts are centered on the holes.
- Using a rachet and the smaller-than-prescribed drill bit, I had no issue with the wheels in the way or getting under the car with the drill. (Each one has a single screw in the bottom. There isn't much room in the front for drilling from underneath; the rear is easier.)
- All drilling you do is into plastic, so that's a piece of cake. Do follow the advice of using a smaller pilot hole, as it ensures the larger drill bit won't wander around.
- Finally, there's a trick I found to putting on the rear flaps. On the top of page 8, put in the bottom spring nut of the 3 BEFORE you mark the holes. The spring nut will only sit in one place, because the curve of the plastic in the corner coupled with the lip on the spring nut prevents you from putting the spring nut all the way into the corner. Put the spring nut where it wants to be near that corner, and then line up everything else accordingly. Mark everything, take the spring nut out, and drill everything.
Otherwise, the directions are excellent. It's an easy DIY project.
Tips for those of you that haven't done it yet...
- Buy a 4mm hex bit for your socket wrench. You could use an allen wrench, but the rachet is much faster! I bought a 6 piece set of metric hex bits, 3/8" drive, for $20. There are 12 screws (8 in the box, plus 4 existing on the car) with this kind of head on them.
- Two other screws have a 10mm hex head. If you don't have metric sockets, you should!
- Don't bother with the metric drill bits. They call for 3mm for the pilot holes, and 9mm for the finished holes. 9mm is a hair under 3/8", which is huge. You don't need anything like that... the screws are nowhere near that big. I did great with 1/8" pilot holes and 1/4" finished holes. You just have to make sure the spring nuts are centered on the holes.
- Using a rachet and the smaller-than-prescribed drill bit, I had no issue with the wheels in the way or getting under the car with the drill. (Each one has a single screw in the bottom. There isn't much room in the front for drilling from underneath; the rear is easier.)
- All drilling you do is into plastic, so that's a piece of cake. Do follow the advice of using a smaller pilot hole, as it ensures the larger drill bit won't wander around.
- Finally, there's a trick I found to putting on the rear flaps. On the top of page 8, put in the bottom spring nut of the 3 BEFORE you mark the holes. The spring nut will only sit in one place, because the curve of the plastic in the corner coupled with the lip on the spring nut prevents you from putting the spring nut all the way into the corner. Put the spring nut where it wants to be near that corner, and then line up everything else accordingly. Mark everything, take the spring nut out, and drill everything.
Otherwise, the directions are excellent. It's an easy DIY project.
ANY ONE ELSE THAT ARE GOING TO INSTALL THERE OWN....do follow RXdriver's instructions....especially with the rear one...because when you first line it up...its like..huh...the place you are supposed to drill looks like its on the edge of the corner...on the inside....(you will see what i mean whne you first put the back on one....to see where to drill).....
anyways...good advice....
07-16-07, 09:26 AM
#51
The one thing I found irritating is that the dual sided tape included with the mudguards do not seem to work. At least in my case, it seemed so. Perhaps, I should have used a acetone cleaner to make sure I had a good surface for the tape to adhere to. The tape should allow the mudguard to "hug" and therefore look much better. In my case, you can see a small gap, not that it matters. I wonder what the others experienced.
Last edited by mandyfig; 07-16-07 at 09:26 AM. Reason: spell
07-25-07, 08:20 AM
#53
Should not have damage. Or else, it can be buffed out.
07-27-07, 02:06 PM
#55
Generally it will prevent anything that will normally end up on the side of the car. It is not as big, so majority of the mud, etc., will still escape. I installed it for cosmetic rather than function. It helps a bit.
07-27-07, 02:39 PM
#56
This is inaccurate, the amount of damage depends on how long mud flaps are used. In my Acura forum, folks have found OEM installed mudflaps literally cut through the paint to expose the raw metal.
Even with the marks that I have shown in an earlier post, I can not remove it using 3M Swirl Marks remover.
Even with the marks that I have shown in an earlier post, I can not remove it using 3M Swirl Marks remover.
07-27-07, 05:59 PM
#57
I guess with vibration and constant pressure, the edge of that plastic will cut into paint easily. I can believe it.
01-29-08, 02:52 PM
#58
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Just got a set of mud guards for my new RX350. Instructions recommend cleaning area with 3M Prep Solvent 70. All I can find locally is 1 gallon @ $31. All I need is a teaspoon! Anybody know of an alternative?
01-30-08, 05:56 AM
#59
Use alcohol? That's what I used.
