dbui

Ok my 2001 rx300 225k on it and still kicking nicely with no issue, at 200k I just did the second time replacing timing belts and spark plugs. last week when I park my car in the garage after coming back from work, I smelled something like oil burn but did not pay attention to it, anyway yesterday when I pull out I saw a couples drop of oil on the floor, so I took it to the mechanic after inspection and checking under the car, he said it was the valve cover gaskets need to be replace both front and back. that why I smelled the burn oil because the oil dropping on the exhaust.
My questions is that what others thing which i need to replace while the mechanic replacing the valve cover gaskets? please advices! the oem part cost only $64 from Lexus dealer but he will charge me 4-5hrs of labor

Thanks

fastnoypi

if you plan to have a mechanic do the job, replace the spark plug gaskets on the valve covers while the valve cover gaskets are being replaced.

salimshah

I would start by just torquing the bolts down.

You may like to price out the extra labor and material to do the plug tube seals vs new valve cover. Also read up the discussion on redesigned rear valve cover.

Dont forget to change the PCV and grommet.

Salim

JAB

First, determine whether in your last timing belt job the mechanic changed the cam seals; if not, that is a likely source of your leak. As for the spark plug seals, if original they almost certainly can not be removed from the valve covers; they are baked in there. Buy a new rear valve cover, which includes spark seals pre-installed, and install with a new valve cover gasket. Reinstall the existing front valve cover (with new gasket of course) and if you later determine that the spark plug seals are leaking, deal with it at that time, probably with a new front valve cover.

fastnoypi

While its easy and quick to buy a new valve cover with pre-installed seals, the old spark plug seals really dont take that much effort to remove. Using a flat head screwdriver you can pop them out in less than a minute.
IMO there is no point for the added expense of a new rear valve cover unless the OP has oil consumption problems.

JAB

Fastnoypi: I would not have expressed my view on that issue had I not previously tried to take the advice of some other poster about 'they will pop out in less than a minute.' I tried it and they were literally baked in and would not come out.

fastnoypi

The first one i tried, i admit i thought it was baked in for good and would not be worth the time spent. Until i found a method that does take less than a minute. The sparkplug seals are just a thin 1mm wide steel band with rubber/silicone.
From underside of the valve cover, jamming a flat head along the edge of the seal, you can bend the band with a twist motion. Once it is bent, you can use the screwdriver as a lever and pry the rest of the seal out.

JAB

Been there, tried that, did not work for me.

dbui

hi Salim, when you said torquing bolts down, do I need the mechanic to do it for me or can this be done DIY? and I been reading some of the other discussion on this valve gasket replacing, the torquing is 69bls right? Thanks

Thanks you Jab and fastnoypi for your great info and advices.

What about the manifold gasket? I saw it on the video it needs to be remove to get to the rear valve gasket do I need to replace the manifold gasket too?

Thanks

fastnoypi

some will argue that you need to replace the manifold gasket. If you choose to replace it, it is a relatively cheap part.
It is a MLS gasket, IMO you don't need to replace it if isn't damaged. fwiw, i sprayed mine with copper gasket spray before replacing my intake manifold.

double check the torque specs in the factory manual. They are in inch/lbs.

salimshah

The torque is 69 IN-lbf (inch is very important).

I posted my experience in re-torquing some time back. Essentially I could reach all from top or bottom, but could not get my torque wrench on all.

In auto repair, one person's experience does not become a universal law. So removal of seals can be a nightmare for some and a breeze for another and with 6 seals involved only one can make life miserable.

I personally end up making a choice (gamble) on what to to do and what to skip. Been rewarded and burnt by my choices, but such is life.

I would not make the decision for dbui and just arm him with info.

Salim

dbui

Thanks guys for the awesome info! what about Intake Plenum Gasket? do I need to replace it?


I will take your advice Salimshah torquing it first then if not working I will replace the valve cover gasket front, rear and the sparks plug seal too.

salimshah

The rule is gasket should not be reused.

Not to sound like a Lexus/Toyota bigot, I like the quality and material. So I would stay with OEM. DIY saves me enough to spend extra on OEM. Felpro is another make I have been happy with ... some of their new stuff is made in China. I recently replaced the spark plug tube seals for SC400 and 4 (old stock) were from USA and 4 (new stock) were made in China. Made in USA looked superior.

Make sure your aftermarket are of the same material as OEM.

I admit I have limited experience with after market stuff and am sure plenty of readers would scoff at my high priced solution.

Salim

hsmac

salim, when you say you could reach all, did you just use a long wrench without having to remove anything? i could not reach with a 4 inch wrench. i really hope i can tighten these bolts instead of having to change the gasket.

Drcoffee

Be carefull "torquing" the valve cover bolts. The valve cover might just crack. They are cast aluminum. The gaskets are rubber that hardens like plastic with heat and time. If the bolts are loose, then snug them down but the reason they come loose is because the rubber has lost its resiliency and ability to give resistence to downward pressure. Best to just replace the gaskets.