touching up areas of paint/spraying
05-03-15, 09:57 AM
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
touching up areas of paint/spraying
I just bought a couple cans of spray paint for the bumpers and the main body of my 300. What is the best way to mask off the areas I want to spray? Can I use just plain ole newspaper; or should I use something like what someone recommended to me called masking paper(I think?) There are areas near the front grill on the hood that are stone chipped to heck and i want to do those areas but dont want to get spray on the grill in the process. Whats the best way to go about this? thanks!
05-03-15, 11:30 AM
#2
You can use newspaper. Buy good masking tape.
Little background on myself, I did bodywork & painting since 1969. So I do know a little.
I am in the process of painting all the cladding and bumper using just rattle cans and newspaper.
Prep work is what makes a good paint job or one that looks like a rattle can job. Also use a rattle can that has a fan in the nozzle, not the round spray when it comes out. I bought some off eBay (very pricey & wasn't worth the time to use it but the color was right on). Went with a close enough color Duplicolor and Duplicolor clear from AutoZone.
First I wetsand any chips smooth with 600 wet or dry 3m sandpaper. Then prime with a high fill rattle can primer (a little pricey at NAPA but worth it). Sand the primer smooth with 600 again.
A little trick with wet or dry sandpaper, fold the sandpaper in half grit to grit, this breaks it's smooth, then tear it in half. Soak the sandpaper in water for hours before using, this makes the sandpaper last longer and is much more flexible. At a $1 a sheet, you want it to last.
There is a thing called "over taping & under taping"...meaning..if you want paint on something, make sure you don't have tape covering it (over taping).Under taping is when you do not cover part you don't want any paint on (your painting the bumper, you don't want paint on the fender)
Its common sense but harder to do than you think.
Just take your time and remember, its just a car, you can let it dry, resand it and repaint it again if you mess up.
Little background on myself, I did bodywork & painting since 1969. So I do know a little.
I am in the process of painting all the cladding and bumper using just rattle cans and newspaper.
Prep work is what makes a good paint job or one that looks like a rattle can job. Also use a rattle can that has a fan in the nozzle, not the round spray when it comes out. I bought some off eBay (very pricey & wasn't worth the time to use it but the color was right on). Went with a close enough color Duplicolor and Duplicolor clear from AutoZone.
First I wetsand any chips smooth with 600 wet or dry 3m sandpaper. Then prime with a high fill rattle can primer (a little pricey at NAPA but worth it). Sand the primer smooth with 600 again.
A little trick with wet or dry sandpaper, fold the sandpaper in half grit to grit, this breaks it's smooth, then tear it in half. Soak the sandpaper in water for hours before using, this makes the sandpaper last longer and is much more flexible. At a $1 a sheet, you want it to last.
There is a thing called "over taping & under taping"...meaning..if you want paint on something, make sure you don't have tape covering it (over taping).Under taping is when you do not cover part you don't want any paint on (your painting the bumper, you don't want paint on the fender)
Its common sense but harder to do than you think.
Just take your time and remember, its just a car, you can let it dry, resand it and repaint it again if you mess up.
05-03-15, 11:41 AM
#3
One more thing...if you are not proficient using sandpaper, first tape off anything you do NOT want sanded (chrome, grill, bumper etc.).
And do not leave tape on too long, like days and days, unless you are in a covered place. The sun will bake it on and you can't get it off without a real good fight.
Hope this helps.
And do not leave tape on too long, like days and days, unless you are in a covered place. The sun will bake it on and you can't get it off without a real good fight.
Hope this helps.
05-03-15, 11:49 AM
#4
Moderator
Paint touch up is some thing I never recommend to do for DIY.
Issues are
Color match: Paint fades unevenly and getting an exact match may require remixing/tinting. Shops end up doing whole panels and even blend the panels around. Some Lexus colors have special additives to give it depth [Midnight pearl as opposed to appliance white]. The shade looks different from an angle vs straight on.
Finish match: Paint is deposited layer by layer. Bare metal, primer, color (more than one coat), finish (more than one coat). When you have a chip, you can hide the metal, but the you can not have it filled properly. Most shops strip the whole panel. Other option is to put a thin crust of bondo over the chip and spread around the chip [crude example is sheet rock repair].
Over/under spray: This is a skill issue only experience can teach you.
At the end, if your intention is to protect from rust, then go ahead and use the touch up. In most cases you will end up in a worst looking finish than the chip. Some have had good luck and are happy with the repair.
Lexus dealerships have a person who visits the store once or twice a week and they can do reasonably good job (again not perfect)
Salim
Issues are
Color match: Paint fades unevenly and getting an exact match may require remixing/tinting. Shops end up doing whole panels and even blend the panels around. Some Lexus colors have special additives to give it depth [Midnight pearl as opposed to appliance white]. The shade looks different from an angle vs straight on.
Finish match: Paint is deposited layer by layer. Bare metal, primer, color (more than one coat), finish (more than one coat). When you have a chip, you can hide the metal, but the you can not have it filled properly. Most shops strip the whole panel. Other option is to put a thin crust of bondo over the chip and spread around the chip [crude example is sheet rock repair].
Over/under spray: This is a skill issue only experience can teach you.
At the end, if your intention is to protect from rust, then go ahead and use the touch up. In most cases you will end up in a worst looking finish than the chip. Some have had good luck and are happy with the repair.
Lexus dealerships have a person who visits the store once or twice a week and they can do reasonably good job (again not perfect)
Salim
Last edited by salimshah; 05-03-15 at 11:57 AM.
05-03-15, 12:24 PM
#5
^ like Salim said. The main body paint on most Lexus cars is a Tri-coat or 3 stage paint. Very hard to do even for the most experienced painters.
What I was talking about is the cladding and bumpers.
You might try the small area between the headhights and running light but do not attempt doing anything like a big body panel. You will make it look worse than having some chips..
The proper repair for any chip is to sand it smooth, prime and then paint. To use a filler for the chip (Nitro Stan & other putty fillers) is a quick and cheap way to fill a chip but I won't use it for chips unless its a real cheap paint job. Not saying that I haven't done this before, I have, and have a tube of Nitro Stan in my box now.
Painting the bumpers & cladding the way I am, does NOT have the flex additive you should have in the paint for rubber parts. I am doing this knowingly that it could chip if someone bangs it with a door. I'll just repaint it again lol
What I was talking about is the cladding and bumpers.
You might try the small area between the headhights and running light but do not attempt doing anything like a big body panel. You will make it look worse than having some chips..
The proper repair for any chip is to sand it smooth, prime and then paint. To use a filler for the chip (Nitro Stan & other putty fillers) is a quick and cheap way to fill a chip but I won't use it for chips unless its a real cheap paint job. Not saying that I haven't done this before, I have, and have a tube of Nitro Stan in my box now.
Painting the bumpers & cladding the way I am, does NOT have the flex additive you should have in the paint for rubber parts. I am doing this knowingly that it could chip if someone bangs it with a door. I'll just repaint it again lol
Last edited by VegasRX300; 05-03-15 at 12:57 PM.
05-04-15, 08:30 AM
#6
Racer
Thread Starter
Do i really have to go through all the sanding down, etc? Cant I just mask off the areas and then spray it? As for it not being for a non experienced diy person like me? Well; Im willing to take a chance at giving it a shot. I have done some painting in prior years(not automotive; but just general household type) but have not done automotive type painting. So the more tips the better and the easier anyone can try and make it for me the better too. Also; as for going to a lexus dealer to have it done by a pro; forget that because they will charge a arm and a leg which I dont have available to shell out.
Last edited by matts6887; 05-04-15 at 09:04 AM.
05-04-15, 09:07 AM
#7
Racer
Thread Starter
^ like Salim said. The main body paint on most Lexus cars is a Tri-coat or 3 stage paint. Very hard to do even for the most experienced painters.
What I was talking about is the cladding and bumpers.
You might try the small area between the headhights and running light but do not attempt doing anything like a big body panel. You will make it look worse than having some chips..
The proper repair for any chip is to sand it smooth, prime and then paint. To use a filler for the chip (Nitro Stan & other putty fillers) is a quick and cheap way to fill a chip but I won't use it for chips unless its a real cheap paint job. Not saying that I haven't done this before, I have, and have a tube of Nitro Stan in my box now.
Painting the bumpers & cladding the way I am, does NOT have the flex additive you should have in the paint for rubber parts. I am doing this knowingly that it could chip if someone bangs it with a door. I'll just repaint it again lol
What I was talking about is the cladding and bumpers.
You might try the small area between the headhights and running light but do not attempt doing anything like a big body panel. You will make it look worse than having some chips..
The proper repair for any chip is to sand it smooth, prime and then paint. To use a filler for the chip (Nitro Stan & other putty fillers) is a quick and cheap way to fill a chip but I won't use it for chips unless its a real cheap paint job. Not saying that I haven't done this before, I have, and have a tube of Nitro Stan in my box now.
Painting the bumpers & cladding the way I am, does NOT have the flex additive you should have in the paint for rubber parts. I am doing this knowingly that it could chip if someone bangs it with a door. I'll just repaint it again lol
Trending Topics
05-04-15, 09:11 AM
#8
Racer
Thread Starter
One more thing...if you are not proficient using sandpaper, first tape off anything you do NOT want sanded (chrome, grill, bumper etc.).
And do not leave tape on too long, like days and days, unless you are in a covered place. The sun will bake it on and you can't get it off without a real good fight.
Hope this helps.
And do not leave tape on too long, like days and days, unless you are in a covered place. The sun will bake it on and you can't get it off without a real good fight.
Hope this helps.
05-04-15, 09:13 AM
#9
Racer
Thread Starter
You can use newspaper. Buy good masking tape.
Little background on myself, I did bodywork & painting since 1969. So I do know a little.
I am in the process of painting all the cladding and bumper using just rattle cans and newspaper.
Prep work is what makes a good paint job or one that looks like a rattle can job. Also use a rattle can that has a fan in the nozzle, not the round spray when it comes out. I bought some off eBay (very pricey & wasn't worth the time to use it but the color was right on). Went with a close enough color Duplicolor and Duplicolor clear from AutoZone.
First I wetsand any chips smooth with 600 wet or dry 3m sandpaper. Then prime with a high fill rattle can primer (a little pricey at NAPA but worth it). Sand the primer smooth with 600 again.
A little trick with wet or dry sandpaper, fold the sandpaper in half grit to grit, this breaks it's smooth, then tear it in half. Soak the sandpaper in water for hours before using, this makes the sandpaper last longer and is much more flexible. At a $1 a sheet, you want it to last.
There is a thing called "over taping & under taping"...meaning..if you want paint on something, make sure you don't have tape covering it (over taping).Under taping is when you do not cover part you don't want any paint on (your painting the bumper, you don't want paint on the fender)
Its common sense but harder to do than you think.
Just take your time and remember, its just a car, you can let it dry, resand it and repaint it again if you mess up.
Little background on myself, I did bodywork & painting since 1969. So I do know a little.
I am in the process of painting all the cladding and bumper using just rattle cans and newspaper.
Prep work is what makes a good paint job or one that looks like a rattle can job. Also use a rattle can that has a fan in the nozzle, not the round spray when it comes out. I bought some off eBay (very pricey & wasn't worth the time to use it but the color was right on). Went with a close enough color Duplicolor and Duplicolor clear from AutoZone.
First I wetsand any chips smooth with 600 wet or dry 3m sandpaper. Then prime with a high fill rattle can primer (a little pricey at NAPA but worth it). Sand the primer smooth with 600 again.
A little trick with wet or dry sandpaper, fold the sandpaper in half grit to grit, this breaks it's smooth, then tear it in half. Soak the sandpaper in water for hours before using, this makes the sandpaper last longer and is much more flexible. At a $1 a sheet, you want it to last.
There is a thing called "over taping & under taping"...meaning..if you want paint on something, make sure you don't have tape covering it (over taping).Under taping is when you do not cover part you don't want any paint on (your painting the bumper, you don't want paint on the fender)
Its common sense but harder to do than you think.
Just take your time and remember, its just a car, you can let it dry, resand it and repaint it again if you mess up.
Last edited by matts6887; 05-04-15 at 09:18 AM.
05-04-15, 11:28 AM
#10
1. If you don't sand it, the paint will not adhere. Also has to be clean (free of any grease or wax).
2. As I (& Salim) advised, do NOT try doing large panels (hoods, fenders, doors). Lexus has a Tri-Coat paint. It is very hard to duplicate even for a very experienced auto painter. You will make the panels look worse. Just touch up the rock chips the best you can.
3. Flex Additive is a clear liquid that is added to the paint to make it flexible. Used on rubber parts like bumpers. Usually not added to primer but to just the paint. You are using rattle cans and not a spay gun, so no flex additive can be added anyway. I just mentioned it because of other painters would know that I wasn't using it.
4. You can use newspaper. Just use a complete page that folds and the use the part that is folds as the section that you put the tape on. Its easier to put the tape on the newspaper first, then apply it to the car.
You can also "double tape". That is taping off the part you want to paint first to make sure there is no "over taping or under taping" then apply your taped up newspaper the the tape you had put on.
5. Your asking me blind to tell you how much paint to use to cover something. That's like asking someone over the phone how much will it cost to fix a dent he can't see. It takes as much as it does to cover. That's all I can say.
Also get a grey "Scratch Pad" NOT the red one (red is coarse, grey is fine). Use this after you sanded. This will ensure that the area is scuffed enough to hold the paint you are applying.
Also use a tack rag (they are like $1). You use these just before you paint to make sure there is no dirt.
Yes...its a lot of work. That's one reason it does cost a lot to have paint work done.
Most of this is all prep work. Like I said in the beginning, prep work is what makes a good paint job. It is time consuming, tedious work.
Again....do NOT try painting a Lexus body panel with spray cans. You will make your car look worse than the chips. As experienced as I am, (and I have painted literally 100's of cars) I would never attempt it and I too have chips.
I am just doing my cladding and bumpers.
I've given you all the advice I can over the internet without being there.
To paint a automobile takes a lot of time and mistakes to learn. You can't possibly learn that over the internet.
I can tell you are going to try anyway...well, good luck and take pictures so you can post them.
2. As I (& Salim) advised, do NOT try doing large panels (hoods, fenders, doors). Lexus has a Tri-Coat paint. It is very hard to duplicate even for a very experienced auto painter. You will make the panels look worse. Just touch up the rock chips the best you can.
3. Flex Additive is a clear liquid that is added to the paint to make it flexible. Used on rubber parts like bumpers. Usually not added to primer but to just the paint. You are using rattle cans and not a spay gun, so no flex additive can be added anyway. I just mentioned it because of other painters would know that I wasn't using it.
4. You can use newspaper. Just use a complete page that folds and the use the part that is folds as the section that you put the tape on. Its easier to put the tape on the newspaper first, then apply it to the car.
You can also "double tape". That is taping off the part you want to paint first to make sure there is no "over taping or under taping" then apply your taped up newspaper the the tape you had put on.
5. Your asking me blind to tell you how much paint to use to cover something. That's like asking someone over the phone how much will it cost to fix a dent he can't see. It takes as much as it does to cover. That's all I can say.
Also get a grey "Scratch Pad" NOT the red one (red is coarse, grey is fine). Use this after you sanded. This will ensure that the area is scuffed enough to hold the paint you are applying.
Also use a tack rag (they are like $1). You use these just before you paint to make sure there is no dirt.
Yes...its a lot of work. That's one reason it does cost a lot to have paint work done.
Most of this is all prep work. Like I said in the beginning, prep work is what makes a good paint job. It is time consuming, tedious work.
Again....do NOT try painting a Lexus body panel with spray cans. You will make your car look worse than the chips. As experienced as I am, (and I have painted literally 100's of cars) I would never attempt it and I too have chips.
I am just doing my cladding and bumpers.
I've given you all the advice I can over the internet without being there.
To paint a automobile takes a lot of time and mistakes to learn. You can't possibly learn that over the internet.
I can tell you are going to try anyway...well, good luck and take pictures so you can post them.
Last edited by VegasRX300; 05-04-15 at 11:31 AM.
05-05-15, 09:37 AM
#11
Racer
Thread Starter
I never planned on doing entire body panels, etc. Just the areas that are chipped and where its been scraped down to the black primer part. I just plan on doing some areas on the front of my hood where its been chipped to heck by stones, etc. and some other spots on the hood where there are scratches; and a few areas near the back of the vehicle. So no i dont plan on doing the entire body panels. just areas here and there; but yes I will be sure to get sandpaper and sand it down; then mask it off with newspaper; or masking paper; then give it one side to side coat and let it dry and see what it looks like. Unless there is a better idea. I dont have the funds to get the whole vehicle painted; otherwise I would consider doing that to make it easier.
05-05-15, 09:53 AM
#12
Matt, the days of just painting the area that needs paint are gone. You use to be able to just paint one spot and then blend it. We use to use lacquer and thin it down for the blend.
With the new paint you HAVE to paint the entire panel. Sometimes there is no break off point where you can stop, so you have to paint areas that are not even near the damaged area. Like if you have a spot down low near the back bumper on the rear quarter panel, your going to have to paint all the way to the roof and all the way to the door.
I just don't want you to make your car look worse than it did with chips.
But it is your car, do what ever makes you happy.
With the new paint you HAVE to paint the entire panel. Sometimes there is no break off point where you can stop, so you have to paint areas that are not even near the damaged area. Like if you have a spot down low near the back bumper on the rear quarter panel, your going to have to paint all the way to the roof and all the way to the door.
I just don't want you to make your car look worse than it did with chips.
But it is your car, do what ever makes you happy.
05-05-15, 10:17 AM
#13
Racer
Thread Starter
Why would I have to paint the entire panel; if there are just small areas here and there that have been stone chipped, etc?
05-05-15, 01:07 PM
#14
Matt, thought I explained that. Its just the way they have the new paint. Plus paint does not stick to anything not sanded. It will peel up around the edges if not sanded.
There is single stage paint. You just add hardener and reducer to it and spray it.
Base Coat Clear Coat (2 stage). The easiest to paint in my opinion but cost more to do because you are basically painting the car twice. You spray the base coat, doesn't matter if you lay it on dry, wet or in-between, just don't make any runs. Then apply 2 to 3 coats of clear coat. Cut and buff if needed. The first time I sprayed a car with Base Coat / Clear Coat I was really amazed at how easy it was. Felt like I cheating or something.
Then there's the Tri-Coat (3 stage) which I think most Lexus's have. Its basically the same method as Base Coat/Clear Coat but they added an extra step to get that deep down gloss. You do the base coat, then a mid-coat before the clear coat.
Color matching the Tri-Coat is a real pain. Not enough or too much Base-Coat or not enough or too much Mid-Coat and the color is off.
There's a good article if you Google 'Tri-Coat paint'. Its "Matching Tri-Coat Pearls". That maybe can explain it better than I can on the internet.
Also there are other articles about how to paint the entire panel.
There is single stage paint. You just add hardener and reducer to it and spray it.
Base Coat Clear Coat (2 stage). The easiest to paint in my opinion but cost more to do because you are basically painting the car twice. You spray the base coat, doesn't matter if you lay it on dry, wet or in-between, just don't make any runs. Then apply 2 to 3 coats of clear coat. Cut and buff if needed. The first time I sprayed a car with Base Coat / Clear Coat I was really amazed at how easy it was. Felt like I cheating or something.
Then there's the Tri-Coat (3 stage) which I think most Lexus's have. Its basically the same method as Base Coat/Clear Coat but they added an extra step to get that deep down gloss. You do the base coat, then a mid-coat before the clear coat.
Color matching the Tri-Coat is a real pain. Not enough or too much Base-Coat or not enough or too much Mid-Coat and the color is off.
There's a good article if you Google 'Tri-Coat paint'. Its "Matching Tri-Coat Pearls". That maybe can explain it better than I can on the internet.
Also there are other articles about how to paint the entire panel.
05-05-15, 03:58 PM
#15
Spraying paint is easy. Doing nice body and finish work is hard, and the prep takes most of the time.
It takes knowledge, skill, equipment, a clean place to work, and lots of practice to make it look good.
It takes knowledge, skill, equipment, a clean place to work, and lots of practice to make it look good.
