Neuron

Hello,

I have a 2002 Lexus RX300 with the VSC Light and Engine Check Lights ON. I read threads with the same problem from other owners on this forum and tried the following.

1) Removed Air Filter and put it back
2) Removed positive and negative terminals from the battery, waited for half an hour and put them back
3) Removed Gas Cap and put it back
4) Checked vacuum hose of the air filter

The VSC Light and the Engine Check Lights are coming back ON "15 minutes" AFTER I reconnect the battery terminals.

In California, auto parts shops like Autozone are NOT ALLOWED to read customer's OBD Codes as per California LAW. Which means I have to buy an OBD2 Scanner.

I checked Amazon.com and found a few cheap OBD II Scanners from BAFX, VGate, Innova and King Mansion as listed in the following link.

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_no...keywords=obd2+

I am wondering if these cheap scanners will do a good job of reading the ERROR CODES or do I need to buy an expensive OBD II scanner.

I got a smog test done right after I disconnected the batter terminals and reconnected them. Everything else passed EXCEPT the report said OBD II Monitors Not Ready for
a) Catalyst
b) Evaporative System
c) Oxygen Sensor
d) Oxygen Sensor Heater

I just want to get the SMOG test done and right now the SUV won't pass because of the VSC and Engine Check Lights.....

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks

carguy07

A cheap code reader will work fine. If the CEL is not coming back on after you disconnected the battery, then you just need to put some more miles on it before you can pass the smog test. The more expensive code readers will let you know when it is ready, but if you can put several miles on it with no CEL, then you are probably good to go. Some people say you have to have several trips with the car on/off before the car is ready, but I know I got away with clearing a code and driving maybe 5 miles straight to the test and passed just fine.

Neuron

Hello carguy07,

Thanks for the reply. Here is the problem. After I disconnect and reconnect the battery, the VSC and Check Engine Lights are OFF but are coming back ON after 15 minutes of driving.

The auto shop who did the smog test today told me that the computer cannot test those 4 things I mentioned (in my original post) because the battery was turned OFF before I went for the SMOG test. He asked me to drive 100 miles and go back for the test.

Like you said, driving 5 miles might be enough. The smog test takes at least 10 minutes. If I drive for 5 miles and take it to the smog test, it will still fail because the lights are coming back ON, after 15 minutes of driving after I reconnect the battery.

Any other alternative solutions ?

TIA

carguy07

Probably best to get the codes read and see what's going on. Autozone around here will read them for free, or pick up the $20 version. Clear the codes and check to see what code pops up first. You can have several, but the first one usually helps point to the problem. Could just be an A/F sensor or something easy to fix.

Neuron

Ordered an OBD II from Ebay......Will let you know.....Thanks

Neuron

Hello,

I got the ELM OBD II and ran diagnostics and got a P1135 Error Code.

P1135 = Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1)

carguy07

Yep bank 1, the one closest to the firewall. Buy Denso only: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...el-sensor.html

arawrx300

my struggles to take off from a stop. Feels like the belt is not catching or something. I'm unsure atm on what the problem may be. Was wondering if I can get some educated answers. Also when I put into reverse it does the same thing. I'd have to step on the gas nd Rev it to 3 thousand before it starts backing up slowly. same thing in drive gear. but, once the car is rolling it shift fairly decent. Maybe a bit a jerky but, not too bad. ND it still goes into all gears. Although a week ago I had a similar issue where, the gear from 2nd to 3rd was rough nd wouldn't go into 4th. I was worried that it could be tranny replacement. I drove the car to work anyways nd the same day heading back home from work the light started dimming nd radio would die when I signal to switch lanes. I figured it's an battery problem or alternator. any how the car ended up dying at the gas station. Car didn't crank at all just made a weird buzz when I turn the keys to started it up. So, I got it jumped nd started fine. Within 20 mins the car died again on its own. so I left the car there for the night. Went back the next day with my mechanic buddy nd jump the car nd took off the negative to see if it was really the alternator. And problem solved so, we went nd got another one nd swap it out in 15 mins or so. Car ran fine for 3 days. Now this problem is occurring where car doesn't want to take off from a stop until when it's revs up to 3 thousands on drive nd reverse. It also acts like a standard car when on drive gear. Car will roll back a bit until I Rev up to 3 rpm to take off .
any answer or suggestion would be helpful thank you.

Neuron

Hello carguy07,

Here are some OBD2 scanner readings. I read your suggestion to replace the Oxygen 2 Sensor for P1135 Error Code I am getting but I would really appreciate if you can see the following readings and tell me if there is anything else I need to know.

I used TouchScan software along with the ELM OBD2 Scanner.


Monitor Tests: G = Green Check Mark R = Red Cross Mark
===========

Name Available Complete

Oxygen Sensor G R
Oxygen Sensor Heater G G
Catalyst G R
Heated Catalyst R R
Evap System G G
Secondary Air System R R
AC Refrigerant R R
EGR System R R


Oxygen Sensors Tab Readings
========================

Sensor Available

Bank 1 Sensor 1 G
Bank 1 Sensor 2 G
Bank 2 Sensor 1 G
Bank 2 Sensor 2 R


ON Board Monitoring
================

Everything PASSED


===================================================================

Question:

The Bank 1 Sensor 1, Bank 1 Sensor 2 and Bank 2 Sensor 1 on Oxygen Sensor readings are all Green (means PASS I assume). Bank 2 Sensor 2 is Red but irrelevant as I understand.

So why am I still getting P1135 Error Code for Bank 1 Sensor 1 ?

The Oxygen Sensor Heater is G and G in "Monitor Tests" but Oxygen Sensor is G and R. I am kinda confused.

TIA

maorsela

I also have a 2002, and years ago, I took it for an oil change @ a local BJ's club. When I received the car, the VSC/CEL/Traction lights came on. Went to them and they told me they have done nothing, and that they don't have the 'equipment' to fix it, and i'll have to go to the dealer. Ever since I'm doing all oil changes myself!

I drove like that for several years, then one day decided to get to the bottom of it.

It turns out, when the guy replaced the engine air filter, he pulled the whole box out too much, which caused one for the EVAP return lines to disconnect at the bottom of the filter box. It was hard to notice this.

Once I connected the hose back to the bottom of the filter box, all lights turned off and never came back, it's been several years since

My 2c...

Neuron

Hello Carguy07,

I went to a smog test and repair shop and the guy told me that I should buy an Air Fuel Ratio Sensor and NOT an Oxygen Sensor. He ran OBD2 diagnostics and he also got the same P1135 Code.

But I am able to find ONLY a Denso 234-9009 Oxygen Sensor compatible with 2002 Lexus RX 300 on Amazon.

Is the repair guy misinformed or am I missing something here ?

Thanks

carguy07

Denso 234-9009 is an Air Fuel Sensor. An Air Fuel sensor is a fancy (wide band I think) Oxygen Sensor. You have the correct part. So just to confirm, you cleared the codes and installed a new Denso 234-9009 in the back bank by the firewall and code P1135 came back?

Neuron

I have NOT installed anything on the car yet. I called a couple of local Lexus dealers and they also told me that Air Fuel Ratio Sensor is different from Oxygen Sensor and quoted a price ranging from $265 - $312.

When I search on Amazon, I am getting the same Denso 234-9009 Oxygen Sensor ($98.61) compatible with my 2002 Lexus RX300 but this part cannot be returned back to Amazon.


There are a couple of Denso Air Fuel Ratio Sensors 234-9001, 9021, 5060 etc on Amazon but none of them are compatible with 2002 RX300.

The P1135 OBD Error Code refers to Bank 1 Sensor 1 Air Fuel Ratio Sensor Heater Malfunction

I am kinda confused what part to buy on Amazon and if Air Fuel Ratio Sensor is different from an Oxygen Sensor.

carguy07

Denso 234-9009 is an Air Fuel Ratio Sensor. Amazon should be techically listing it as an Air Fuel Ratio Sensor. The dealer just marks their part up another 300%

100% positive 234-9009 is correct and is an Air Fuel Ratio Sensor. http://www.densoproducts.com/product.aspx?zpid=18798

hypervish

+1, you have the correct part!