daltongd

I have the Lexus manual and it is shows exactly what your reply shows and I did exactly what they said to do. If you look at the pic I showed how the sealant goes from the inside to the outside which is exactly what the manual says. I have been driving it some and the leak seems to have diminished from the original test drive. I am trying to determine if I can live with it or if I should drop the pan and try it again.

I was just out driving it today to get some miles on the leak and noticed my cruise control does not work. The light comes on the dash so that part it working but something in not right. I tried disconnecting the connector at the cruise control module in the engine bay and re-mated but that was not the problem. .

daltongd

Did some reading on the cruise control issue I am having so I took the connector apart on the module in the engine compartment and put some dielectric grease on the connector and put it back together again and it is now working.

Heismyrock

Hello Daltongd.. Very impressive indeed! How did you split the engine from the transmission? Did you simply unbolt the tranny and split? I am having a lot of trouble separating the AWD engine from the transmission..
Any advise would be appreciated!

jnovak01

I see that you did follow the sealant path so that was my mistake.
How much oil are you leaking?
Is it engine or tranny oil?

I replaced a rear seal on a car many moons ago and it leaked for a couple of days before it stopped.
I don't know if that are all the same. Looks like you could use some advice from someone who replaced a rear seal on a first gen RX.. I don't have any ideas.
Looks like you did everything correctly.

daltongd

To Heismyrock: Did you drop the engine on the sub-frame and remove it from the car or are you trying to do it in the engine compartment. The CV axle on the passenger side has to be removed, and the engine mount attach nuts/bolts removed. On the engine mounts its a stud with a nut on the rear one and a bolt on the front one. I had a hook bracket and bolted that to the front right side of the engine, then made a sling out of rope to go between the hook that is provided with the intake manifold support bracket and the lift bracket I installed on the front right side of the engine. If your sling is off then the engine won't hang right and it will make it hard to remove. I also installed about 30 lbs of dive weighs on the engine near where it meets the transmission for ballast.

There are two alignment pins at around 10 o'clock and 2 o;clock. It took a little bit but eventually I got the two to gap at the bottom. I did use a screw driver to help get them to seperate but be very gentle.

Make sure all bolts are removed between the two, double check since one is easy to miss. Make sure you pull the bolts between the flex plate and the torque converter too. lifted the engine.

Sorry I have not been paying attention or I would have answered quicker

salimshah

Lexus sells two types of FIPG tubes. Make sure you get the right one.

The other thing is, that you have let the thing cure ... check the label .. overnight or 24 hrs, before you can fill the oil.

Salim

tim73

so, I'm fixing to do the same exact job in the next coming weeks. Will be driving to Orlando to pick up the engine. I really do not want to have to take off oil pan/oil pump if possible. My rx300 is a 99 fwd, anyway, would you been able to cut the cast iron mount off? Does the rx300 use that as an engine mount? Appreciate all the pictures. Thanks!

Mfrankster

Here's an updated version of this process, with video, and lots of details:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...placement.html