angkorthom

Salimshah do you think that the actual door panel switch is shorted out? If i replace that would it fix the issue? OK how about if i disconnect the whole unit on the door and perform a draw test would that yield different results?

salimshah

First there is nothing abnormal in your parasitic draw as you said it is 180ma.

But if it makes you more comfortable, disconnect the suspicious load (locks) to isolate it.

Then get your battery tested under load (may need an extended charging), but let the shop who sold you the battery do it or better still have another shop do it as they may be more motivated to sell you a new battery. You can always go back the store who sold you the battery for warranty replacement (if that applies).

Once you get a new battery or the your current battery has been certified good, have your charging system tested.

If you still think something is drawing out too much current overnight, then have the parasitic remeasured.

When I said, "ghost", I meant a ghost you should not chase and it seems you are looking for ghost busters.

Salim

angkorthom

well most people here say that it should be below 50ma. I spoke to the electrical guy he said it should be lower than 180ma. he also informed me because of the draw it messed my battery up, so i'll have to get it replaced. I want this fixed because my windows is also not functioning with the individual window switch so i think that has something to do with the draw. Its also nice to not have to worry about your car needing a jump if i park it for 3 days without activity.

salimshah

I checked mine after about 3min ... [head-lights auto off, headlight switch off, door lock -- unlocked, dome-lights set to door and no accessory plugged in, battery fully charged, key out of ignition ]. Time measured from driver door shut close.

I did not have patience to wait any further. At least one more member posted his data and was in line with mine. My battery problems happen when the battery is 3+ yrs old. Current optima is on its 6yr

If other people post, we can collect more data.

Salim

angkorthom

What did yours draw? I did it right the test yesterday and it was about 180ma. it started at above 400 but when it slept it stayed at about 180ma. Do you happen to know what the black box is in the door of the car? its some kind of computer circuit, i'm wondering i should disconnect that to see if that might be the cause.

salimshah

Please see post #2 of this thread.

I am not familiar with the black box you are talking about. Please use logic to trace the problem (even if it is a ghost). In my previous post, I suggested that you can disconnect a suspicious circuit to see if it makes a difference in your parasitic draw.

How did your battery test out? If you were to buy a new one, please invest in something 48+ month.

Salim

angkorthom

This weekend i'll do the fuse test, taking it out one by one and then narrowing it down to where the draw is occurring. Once i figure that out i'll take out the components of the door if its in the door out and unplug it to see if the car still dies out. If i replace a battery now i have to wait 2-3 days before the battery dies out to find out if its still draining. Wow your car drains that much huh.....i'll eventually get a new battery with a bigger crank. I also want to trouble shoot my window issue as well, i wonder if the master switch window lock shorted out causing it to lock all the other windows? hmmmm

salimshah

It amounts to a whopping total of 3watts for me and 2.16watts for you.

Lets see if we can encourage others to do a parasitic draw test and not go by hunches.

Salim

Bobster999

Of course this guy never reports back to try to help others. Im having the same issue. Battery wont start car if it sits for about 4 days. Fully charged and tested good several times. About 600 mA draw. Dome light fuse circuit under hood sucks about 300 mA. The underhood ECU -B fuse circuit sucks about 200 mA. This aint gonna be pretty.

salimshah

How old is your battery?

Have it tested under load. If it passes, ask the shop to charge it up for 24hrs [most shops do it for free]. If you have a charger, you can do that on your own.

Harbor Freight (sorry it may not meet many people's standard) is selling a battery minder for less than $6. I have been stretching the life of a dying battery with it for over 6 months now.


Salim

Bobster999

I have a charger that ive been having to use on this. battery under 2 yrs old with a warranty. i took it in and they kept in and charged and tested it also and said it was good and would not replace it.

salimshah

How about charging system? Did the store check the charge amperage?

Salim

Bobster999

Salim,
I appreciate you trying to help.
I must not have been clear so i will restate the situation.
I put a fully charged battery in my car.
If I dont start the car within 4-5 days, the battery will be so low
that it wont have the power to turn over the car.
And will be down to around 6 volts left.
That scenario removes the charging system as
any possible culprit.
I wonder how many here has actually not started your car for
5 days? It does not seem to me that 600 mA draw would
kill a good battery in 5 days. That is puzzling to me
since the battery was fully charged and tested
at the auto parts store.

salimshah

You were clear, I did not pay attention to the details ... like fully charged left in place.

You mention 600 ma ,,, is that in sleep mode? I would expect that number to be in 300's.

I have left the Rx for 3 weeks without starting [with strong battery], it started right up.

Salim

Bobster999

Like i already said,
between the dome fuse and the ecu-b fuse circuits under hood,
draws about 600 mA.
I pulled every fuse on the inside fuse panel
and the draw never went away.
I find that hard to believe since i thought
every circuit would run through the inside
panel from the under hood fuse panel.
oh well, i will dig more tomorrow...