RX300 Trans Failure?
09-22-14, 02:08 PM
#31
Driver
Thread Starter
I have a really hard time believing that the same two solenoids that were replaced about a year ago with less than 8,000 miles driven during that year can fail again. I really think it's something to do with the electrical system, now pin pointing exactly what's at fault (battery, ECU, fuses, grounding, etc.) might take a while... I spent close to $600 for the solenoids and installation and it only temporarily patched the problem, I personally wouldn't go replacing all the solenoids.
I was told buy the solenoids online and then replace all of them if it was them.
09-22-14, 07:15 PM
#32
Believe me, it's NOT those solenoids! It's the grounds. I emplore you to PLEASE PLEASE clean all the grounds!!
Swap the Trans Speed sensors and change the fluid & filter for good measure.
There is next to no grounding with all the aluminum in this vehicle.
You should see my wife's Durango with the Aluminum V6 and the Aluminum 8 Speed transmission case. Chrysler has some serious grounding all over that sucker.
Swap the Trans Speed sensors and change the fluid & filter for good measure.
There is next to no grounding with all the aluminum in this vehicle.
You should see my wife's Durango with the Aluminum V6 and the Aluminum 8 Speed transmission case. Chrysler has some serious grounding all over that sucker.
09-22-14, 07:20 PM
#33
The problem is corrosion. It's like the bushings on the suspension, it's the inside that get decays.
Take them apart then just some steel wool or wire brush to clean them up. I then spray the red CRC Battery Terminal protector on there when I'm done.
Take them apart then just some steel wool or wire brush to clean them up. I then spray the red CRC Battery Terminal protector on there when I'm done.
09-22-14, 07:43 PM
#34
The problem is corrosion. It's like the bushings on the suspension, it's the inside that get decays.
Take them apart then just some steel wool or wire brush to clean them up. I then spray the red CRC Battery Terminal protector on there when I'm done.
Take them apart then just some steel wool or wire brush to clean them up. I then spray the red CRC Battery Terminal protector on there when I'm done.
09-23-14, 06:30 AM
#36
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^ I agree, I am definitely going to have my mechanic check out and clean all the ground points, but it would be nice if there were pictures of where exactly the main ground points are located. I have found the grounding schematic for a RHD RX300, it identifies all the locations but without any pictures.
http://bio.souz-96.com/Lexus/RX300_R...OUND_POINT.pdf
http://bio.souz-96.com/Lexus/RX300_R...OUND_POINT.pdf
09-23-14, 06:35 AM
#37
Driver
Thread Starter
^ I agree, I am definitely going to have my mechanic check out and clean all the ground points, but it would be nice if there were pictures of where exactly the main ground points are located. I have found the grounding schematic for a RHD RX300, it identifies all the locations but without any pictures.
http://bio.souz-96.com/Lexus/RX300_R...OUND_POINT.pdf
http://bio.souz-96.com/Lexus/RX300_R...OUND_POINT.pdf
I'll have him clean all the grounds.
09-24-14, 09:39 AM
#38
Driver
Thread Starter
09-25-14, 08:20 PM
#39
Driver
Thread Starter
Ok guys! The car has been fixed! I am so ecstatic! So what happened was when I had the 120K service done on my car the engine bay was washed and from what I glean some dirt or debris had messed up something. I was also told that the "drivers panel" was removed and something was repaired/replaced. I'm not quite sure whether it was an exterior panel or an interior panel. I also noticed that my coin box/interior fuse box had its possessions removed (and moved to the glove box and then locked) so maybe there was something going on in/near the fuse panel. I was told that the grounds had been cleaned and that was it.
Hopefully y'all get your stuff sorted properly. Let me know if I can help you.
EDIT: Why cleaning the grounds were important
So the grounds supply ground to the relay that is buzzing (for me either to the left of the parking brake or near the interior fuse box somewhere) and a main compressor relay.
I guess it wasn't able to provide a ground so the car wasn't functioning properly.
Its been sorted now and I hope it lasts quite a long time.
Hopefully y'all get your stuff sorted properly. Let me know if I can help you.
EDIT: Why cleaning the grounds were important
So the grounds supply ground to the relay that is buzzing (for me either to the left of the parking brake or near the interior fuse box somewhere) and a main compressor relay.
I guess it wasn't able to provide a ground so the car wasn't functioning properly.
Its been sorted now and I hope it lasts quite a long time.
Last edited by jgoorn; 09-25-14 at 08:25 PM. Reason: Additional details
09-26-14, 06:58 AM
#41
Isn't it amazing what little wires will do? Newer vehicles have so much aluminum it takes a lot of grounding. I'm curious as to what Ford is going to do with their all aluminum F-150.
Next oil change, I'll take pictures of the grounding points.
Next oil change, I'll take pictures of the grounding points.
09-26-14, 06:27 PM
#42
What changes when they use aluminum??
09-27-14, 11:34 AM
#43
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Just wanted to update you guys, the problem is finally FIXED! The problem was a short in the wiring harness to the transmission, it took forever for them to trace down the issue (electrical nightmare). But the buzzing is gone, all the misfire codes/solenoid codes gone, and the car shifts like when it was brand new.
So for anyone with the same symptoms save yourself the money and try checking all the relays/grounds/fuses before dropping a few hundred dollars on solenoids that won't solve the problem.
Thank you for the insight jimsRX300!
So for anyone with the same symptoms save yourself the money and try checking all the relays/grounds/fuses before dropping a few hundred dollars on solenoids that won't solve the problem.
Thank you for the insight jimsRX300!
09-27-14, 03:24 PM
#44
Aluminum is a horrible conductor of electricity.
Cars of old, like a Jeep with the Iron block 4.0 don't need much grounding because the bolts go directly to a ground. However, iron is heavy.
Toyota was way ahead of the game for years. The 1MZ may be a bad engine, but it's an excellent design. They threw everything at that sucker.
Aluminum heads, block, intake and transmission case. Keep weight down, but they need grounding straps. It's DOHC with VVTi way ahead of its time for a 90's V6. It only weighs 321 pounds.
Due to Ford not declaring bankruptcy, (and Toyota dealing with a devastating earthquake / tsunami) they are way ahead of the game with the all aluminum F-150. There is going to be major grounding straps on that truck, probably onto the frame. If the frame is aluminum the I'm curious how they r gonna ground it.
Cars of old, like a Jeep with the Iron block 4.0 don't need much grounding because the bolts go directly to a ground. However, iron is heavy.
Toyota was way ahead of the game for years. The 1MZ may be a bad engine, but it's an excellent design. They threw everything at that sucker.
Aluminum heads, block, intake and transmission case. Keep weight down, but they need grounding straps. It's DOHC with VVTi way ahead of its time for a 90's V6. It only weighs 321 pounds.
Due to Ford not declaring bankruptcy, (and Toyota dealing with a devastating earthquake / tsunami) they are way ahead of the game with the all aluminum F-150. There is going to be major grounding straps on that truck, probably onto the frame. If the frame is aluminum the I'm curious how they r gonna ground it.
Last edited by jimsRX300; 09-27-14 at 03:27 PM.
09-27-14, 04:55 PM
#45
Driver
Thread Starter
Aluminum is a horrible conductor of electricity.
Cars of old, like a Jeep with the Iron block 4.0 don't need much grounding because the bolts go directly to a ground. However, iron is heavy.
Toyota was way ahead of the game for years. The 1MZ may be a bad engine, but it's an excellent design. They threw everything at that sucker.
Aluminum heads, block, intake and transmission case. Keep weight down, but they need grounding straps. It's DOHC with VVTi way ahead of its time for a 90's V6. It only weighs 321 pounds.
Due to Ford not declaring bankruptcy, (and Toyota dealing with a devastating earthquake / tsunami) they are way ahead of the game with the all aluminum F-150. There is going to be major grounding straps on that truck, probably onto the frame. If the frame is aluminum the I'm curious how they r gonna ground it.
Cars of old, like a Jeep with the Iron block 4.0 don't need much grounding because the bolts go directly to a ground. However, iron is heavy.
Toyota was way ahead of the game for years. The 1MZ may be a bad engine, but it's an excellent design. They threw everything at that sucker.
Aluminum heads, block, intake and transmission case. Keep weight down, but they need grounding straps. It's DOHC with VVTi way ahead of its time for a 90's V6. It only weighs 321 pounds.
Due to Ford not declaring bankruptcy, (and Toyota dealing with a devastating earthquake / tsunami) they are way ahead of the game with the all aluminum F-150. There is going to be major grounding straps on that truck, probably onto the frame. If the frame is aluminum the I'm curious how they r gonna ground it.
Cool! How is it a bad engine but an excellent design?