Hello guys I am having problems with my a/c it gets ice cold but only when I'm on the freeway for over 15 minutes but when I sit and idle it starts blowing about 60-70 degrees (I have made sure to check my cooling fans and they operate when ac is on) my freon is full to spec...i even installed a 3rd 12" 1400cfm pusher fan on my condenser and no difference at all I have a Ford and my buddy owns a gm and my aunt owns a Toyota Highlander and they are all super ice cold at idle even in 110°f heat and traffic😨...Idk if my condenser is clogged or my compressor is weak, also if I'm at idle and rev up the car to 2-2.5 k rpm's the ac seems to get a little colder by about 7 degrees. any help or thoughts would be great Hopefully i can find a answer soon 😯😵
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EDIT: Didn't notice that it gets colder by simply revving the engine in park, cleaning the condenser won't have a impact on this.
Yes, at idle the only time I see the compressor kick in is when I turn the a/c on. it won't get cold enough for the compressor to cycle off and on only untill I revv up it up to 2,500 rpm, then it starts getting cold. and as you can see it then starts to cycle... this is my video I just made to show how my girl is "misbehaving" lol
And I don't know if this makes a difference but I have always noticed (on cars with ice cubes coming out the vents lol) always leaves a puddle under it no matter how much moisture is in the air even when the air is dry. My lexus rarely dose this but if I'm on the freeway and exit off and idle the car leaves a darn river under it, air is ice cold but slowly goes back to room temperature when it's at idle....and not one drop so I know for a fact the air is not getting cold enough to make and produce condensation.
mostly we are enthusiast and tinkerers. AC is a specialized field, requiring special tools and know how. I think that is the reason why you are not getting any feed back on your query.
Have you tried getting into diagnostic mode? Remember to ignore the light sensor fault if you conduct the test in the garage or shine a light on the sensor.
Hello salim, thanks for the reply! I have tried the diagnosis and it has no codes just the light sensor cause I was in the garage, as a member stated I'm going to try to clean my condenser (in front of the radiator) and my evaporator (the worst enemy) but I'm going to try this foam coil cleaner that has a hose and it attaches to the ac drain hose on the outside of the car and squirt that up and it's supposed to clean then liquefy and leak back out and clean the evap then get the rest of the can and then spray some on my condenser and rinse it out and change my air filter...my next option since it's 12 years old Is just to buy a new compressor kit with the orthist tube , o- rings, system oil and buy a new condenser and freon and go to the auto parts store and pick up a ac vacuum and evacuate system and just start fresh....
Thanks so much for the help Jim I was thinking about rebuilding my ac system , Also my condenser is a little beat up and when I sprayed it with the garden hoes ac got cold, also my filter was dirty so I got that changed.
Lol I got led bulb's in side markers so I guess I'm one step ahead and I got the machine to take out the freon and I got a condenser for 71$ and still looking for a compressor I think I'm going to use fresh new freon (134-a) in my system, also I have a auxiliary pusher fan 12" 1,500cfm for them hot traffic jams to keep my ac a little cooler, what area on the front of the condenser would you think would be good for its new life I have it currently mounted dead center on the condenser.
instead of throwing parts and money at it, why not consider doing an actual performance test on it? thats how professionals actually diagnose the actual problem. using the mindset of replacing all parts til it works is foolish and costly. not that i care cause its your money. heres a clue, connect gauges to AC system, run engine about 1500 rpms for about 15 minutes with AC on of course. keep windows rolled up and dont be sitting in the sun. by using the outside temp. , the high and low gauge pressures and the center vent temp, this is how a professional diagnoses the problem.
Normally I would agree with you. However I've got kids, it's THUNDERDOME around here. I schedule this stuff out way in advance. When I do a repair like this, I'm already in there. The last thing I want to do is go BACK in there.
Change the expansion valve at the very least, it's 20 bucks and 5 bucks for new O-rings.
I'm surprised that fits in there with the grill. Initially, I wouldn't even use it. The system is gonna be running at 100% new capacity with a full rebuild.
Do your friends have AUX A/C fans? If not, see how it goes. Those twin fans move air pretty good.
Oh, enjoy changing the expansion valve. It's behind the instrument cluster!!
Oh no, how far behind the dash any sticky 's for it ?, and I just had a extra cooling fan laying around that I had bought a while back but never used (can post pics if you would like to see it) and they move air good but when I get in the big traffic jams at 110°f+ heat I noticed a good decrease in performance, The extra fan helped quite a bit