thaeleelyr

I need to replace the section of exhaust with the flex pipe (highlighted in yellow). The bolts that hold this onto the other sections are mostly unrecognizable. The Toyota part number for these bolts are 90105-10023 (red arrows in schematic). The best I can find is that they are "10mm bolts". It looks as if there is a bolt, a nut, some kind of washer, and something cap-like on the end of the bolt stud (maybe a locking-type end cap?). Does anyone know the length, width of the stud as well as the other incidentals (washers, etc) needed to use the bolt?

One last thing, the bolts and ends of the pipe are an absolute mess. The rest of the exhaust sections look much better, even their ends. It just appears like the ends are made of cheaper materials. I was wondering if anyone else noticed this and if any reason is surmised.

Thanks!

salimshah

I would strongly urge you to buy OEM parts. In a pinch you can reach out for stainles steel components. You may have to plan ahead as you local Lexus parts may not have these odd things in stock. Many years ago, vehicle manufacturers changed to nuts having a flat shoulder and ditched the washers (unless required for other reason). Yes, OEM parts may be 10x the price when it comes to nuts and bolts, but I save $$$ by DIY.

Salim

fastnoypi

OEM will fit right the first time, but if it is inconvenient to go to the dealership and wait for ordering,
usually Japanese OEM exhausts are fitted with M10 x1.25 threaded studs. Dorman or Help! branded parts have exhaust manifold stud kits that work in a pinch. If they are bolt and nut, take the nut off if salvageable, to your local Ace hardware and find a matching length bolt that has the same metric thread.

fyi Dorman/Help! part 03400 comes with three M10x1.25 studs, nuts, and bolts and cross-references some Toyotas for less than $5

http://www.dormanproducts.com/itemde...1&SEName=03400

ATLs460

This.............

thaeleelyr

Thanks for the replies, they are a great help.

Other than fitting right the first time, why is the OEM so important in this case? Are they better quality or are holes that difficult to match? I wasn't planning on ordering an OEM exhaust pipe for this - is that a bad idea as well? Should the gaskets be OEM as well? I love this car to death, but it's getting to that age where I'm starting to consider bubble gum and string as viable repair options rather than sinking fistfuls of money in parts for a car that may get scrapped in a year or two. I'm not against OEM, per se, it's just that I'm 3 hours from the nearest dealership and they like to charge $20 just to ship bits of nonsense to me - it quickly becomes cost prohibitive for all these little doo-dads and plastic things that are starting to break..

salimshah

When it comes to sensors, I would say OEM is the only way to go.
When it comes to generic stuff, I would suggest try to stay OEM (recommendation).

When you are dealing with stuff that is exposed to elements and heat stresses and thermal + electro bonding (metals or different material develop a voltage) then my suggestion is (highly recommended).

Since I prefer DIY, I hate to experiment and only purchase once with the assurity that it will fit. Again I follow torque specs

Have you looked at CL sponsor Sewell .. they give a discount but there is a shipping charge and you have to wait for delivery.

We have had similar discussion on aging machines and my point of view is clearly from purist position ... where each repair brings it back to original. I respect the other points of view and I have reached out for quick fix (even duct tape).

At the end it is your ride and your pocket book.

Salim

fastnoypi

As mentioned, OEM will fit right the first time, no guessing. Otherwise, get a caliper.. measure the length, diameter and determine the thread pitch. The only people that i'm aware of that get upset over non-oem hardware are collectable car owners looking for museum pieces.

Most fasteners that are used are not fancy and are minimally metric grade 8.8 for strength. Anything thing that requires alot of load/clamping strength, look for grade 10.9 or higher.
For exhaust usage, look for stainless steel with zinc plating if possible. The factory used the standard medium carbon steel without zinc treatment, that's why it rusts like it does. If you choose to go the factory OEM fastener route or standard off the shelf fastener on exhaust, be sure to slather on some anti-seize on the threads.

If you lose oem hardware, the following sites and regional stores carry alot of oem grade at a cheaper bulk price. Fastenal, McMaster-Carr, Mr. Metric, Boltdepot.com

Salim said it best " At the end it is your ride and pocket book."